Engine Ticking

[dmkhnr]

You'll have to excuse my limited knowledge about motors.
My 1 yr old 350 mpi just developed a ticking noise on the port side of the motor. It speeds up with throttle, and is loud enough to be heard over the motor. Any ideas as to what would cause this?
thanks,
DK

[1BIGJIM]

Exhaust leak.

[Newcastle]

I just had the same thing with my '70 buick. Exhaust leak is right. I just went and bought an exhaust manifold (header) gasket kit. Auto Zone/Kragen should have it. Costs about $20 for the set. Depending on the openness of your engine, should be a 30-45 min fix. Worked for me...

[Moneypitt]

Yeah, an exhaust leak would be great. BUT, how about the grim reality, lifter, rocker, flat lobe........Sorry to be the messenger..............MP

[Shallow Minded]

Ya, there are all sorts of things... exactly how loud is this ticking? Sure hope it's an exhaust leak!

[dmkhnr]

Wouldn't an exhaust leak have an air sound to the tick? This sounds mechanical. I was thinking head gasket. The tick is audible over the motor. I have a 3 year warranty, but the dealership is 300 miles away. Is there a way to tell if its exhaust? What do I need to look for?
thanks,
DK

[Beer-30]

Exh leak on water manifolds is unlikely, but still possible. (hope)
Flat lobe is near impossible on a stock roller cam, but still could be.
Lifter internals let go / plugged on one or a few lifters.
Rocker arm stud pulling out (pressed in) or nut backing off.
Take a piece of heater hose (3/4" works well), hold one end to your ear (either one will work) and the other end to the valve cover(s). Move the hose around until the ticking is loudest. If not from the VC(s) check the manifolds. The hose will channel the sound and you should be able to locate it.
Don't forget to have H2O going to the motor! ;)

[dmkhnr]

I had it out yesterday, and its an exhaust leak. Port side, front of motor (its a v-drive so it might be back of motor) I reached my hand under the exhaust manifold, and can feel the hot exhaust blowing out. I'm going to try and crank down on the studs first. I've only got a few rides left, and then I can drop it off at the dealer.
Good job with the diagnosis.
a few pics of my boat:
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/dmkhnr/album?.dir=14e0&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//photos.yahoo.com/ph//my_photos
DK

[Newcastle]

Sweet...shouldn't cost much then.

[Beer-30]

If there is a leak, the gasket has already been flame-cut in that area. Cranking the studs TOO tight can warp the whole manifold. Just pull it off, clean all surfaces and replace gasket. Fix it once, fix it right.

[great_escape]

Just replace the gasket it's a cheap and ez fix. If the mainfolds are alum, even steel, running it might burn a valley in it. then fixing the leak becomes hard...

[dmkhnr]

Pulling the manifold and replacing the gasket would be pretty easy for me to do, as there is plenty of room. However, I have a 3 year Merc warranty and am not sure if this would void it. I can fix the gasket, and risk the warranty. Take it to the dealer, have it sit for 3 weeks and end my season now. Or use it the rest of this season drop it off and let them fix it along with the list of other minor issues that need to be addressed.
What would you do?
DK

[Floored]

call the dealer and ask if it would void the warranty. If not fix it and run it. 300 miles + gas+ time or 45 min and 20 bucks.