Timing help?????

[396_WAYS_TO_SPIT]

I am switching from points to a H.E.I set up. I am working on a 455 olds. I want to get rid of the vacum advance.Do I need to plug up the vacum port on the distributor? My uncle said put 2 of the smallest(tightest) springs in. My dads friend said to put 1 of the lighest(weakest) and 1 heaviest(tightest) springs on the distributor. What do you guys think I should do. Also, where should my timing be at? I looked the timing specs up @ work and the computer said 8 degrees. What do you guys think? Could someone please help me out? I am sorry for all the tech questions but I am learning all of this stuff. thanks 396_Ways_To_Spit--out

[Jordy]

I'm not all that familiar with fine tuning HEI, but I know with the MSD distributor that I run I went through the same set up dealio. First, you want the advance to come in as soon as possible but without detination. The lighter the springs, the earlier they will allow the weights to swing out and advance the timing. I think I would start with one light and one heavy spring and see where that gets you. The two heavy springs will probably limit your advance too much. The main thing to look at with your intial timing is how much advance is built into the distributor. 8 degrees sounds pretty safe as a starting point. Usually between 8-12 deg is a good starting point, keeping your total advance around 34 or so. These numbers are all relating to a BBC, but I think they translate across to Olds as well, or at least close.
Jordan

[396_WAYS_TO_SPIT]

396_WAYS_TO_SPIT:
I am switching from points to a H.E.I set up. I am working on a 455 olds. I want to get rid of the vacum advance.Do I need to plug up the vacum port on the distributor? My uncle said put 2 of the smallest(tightest) springs in. My dads friend said to put 1 of the lighest(weakest) and 1 heaviest(tightest) springs on the distributor. What do you guys think I should do. Also, where should my timing be at? I looked the timing specs up @ work and the computer said 8 degrees. What do you guys think? Could someone please help me out? I am sorry for all the tech questions but I am learning all of this stuff. thanks 396_Ways_To_Spit--out

[jslimjeff]

I have my 427 BBC with some mod's.
114cc Rect Port heads.
680 Lift 107 lobe solid cam.
1050 Dominator for air.
I origanally had a HEI setup on it with a hypertech coil and taylor 8mm spircore wires.
It was a pain to set up since vacume advance is a hard thing on a boat since the load issue is weird. I went with a MSD Probillet setup with the rev limiter 6a Box and a MSD Blaster II Coil. I set the springs up 1 heavy 1 light with a stop bushing of total 18 degrees of aedvance.
AT 1200 RPM Idlr I see AProx 18 degrees advance then at 3000 RPM it is full advanced at 38 degrees. Now this is on a 100 octane mixture with 13:1 compression but it purrs and never hear a ping sputter or anything in that matter.
Ohh Yeah I am selling the HEI setup that I had with the wires Make me an offer
Jferh@wi.rr.com

[jslimjeff]

opps messed up email address above
jfehr@wi.rr.com
jslimjeff:
I have my 427 BBC with some mod's.
114cc Rect Port heads.
680 Lift 107 lobe solid cam.
1050 Dominator for air.
I origanally had a HEI setup on it with a hypertech coil and taylor 8mm spircore wires.
It was a pain to set up since vacume advance is a hard thing on a boat since the load issue is weird. I went with a MSD Probillet setup with the rev limiter 6a Box and a MSD Blaster II Coil. I set the springs up 1 heavy 1 light with a stop bushing of total 18 degrees of aedvance.
AT 1200 RPM Idlr I see AProx 18 degrees advance then at 3000 RPM it is full advanced at 38 degrees. Now this is on a 100 octane mixture with 13:1 compression but it purrs and never hear a ping sputter or anything in that matter.
Ohh Yeah I am selling the HEI setup that I had with the wires Make me an offer
Jfehr@wi.rr.com

[Dennis Moore]

The most important part about setting up the ignition curve is the rpm that you get total advance. Measure the diameter of the balancer and purchase a timing tape at a local automotive speed shop. Install the timing tape and check the total advance with a timing light and tachometer(not being an Olds man I would guess total timing should be about 34 or 35 degrees @ 3,800 rpm) . Try different tension springs until you have the timing marks just lining up when you reach 3,800 rpm. The only other thing that you really need to check is that the springs are not so weak as to start advancing the timing at an idle. Unless you want to make adjustments to limit the amount of advance that the distributor is providing I would not worry about the timing at an idle (as long as total timing is correct idle timing doesn't really effect engine performance other than idle quality). Just leave the vacuum advance disconnected (no need to plug it!).
Sincerely Dennis Moore