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View Full Version : Bravo 1 Trim and Trailer sensor replacement


JetBoatRich
09-01-2005, 07:10 AM
I need to change mine out, is there a trick to getting to where the wire passes through the boat?
Thanks, learning alot about an outdrive :D
1BIGJIM
09-01-2005, 12:17 PM
On a Bravo I have done it several times by just removing the hinge pins to get access to the bolt that holds it in place. Not much to it. Kit runs around $80. :D
Alpha is much harder :supp:
OutCole'd
09-01-2005, 12:35 PM
Rich, on my Cole the drive needed to be pulled due to the wire harness for the senson. At least that is what I was told.
JetBoatRich
09-01-2005, 01:34 PM
Rich, on my Cole the drive needed to be pulled due to the wire harness for the senson. At least that is what I was told.
The guy who sold the new units said, "YOU JUST FISH THE NEW WIRES THROUGH" :devil:
1BIGJIM
09-01-2005, 01:48 PM
You do fish them through. Follow the old wires from the engine compartment and see if you have access. Everyone I have seen come out behind the bellhousing.
Getting access to the 1 or 2 bolts that plug the hole is the hard part.
JetBoatRich
09-01-2005, 03:36 PM
You do fish them through. Follow the old wires from the engine compartment and see if you have access. Everyone I have seen come out behind the bellhousing.
Getting access to the 1 or 2 bolts that plug the hole is the hard part.
next to impossible :mad:
Beer-30
01-08-2007, 07:34 PM
Mine are belly-up. I am tired of the smartcraft beeping at me at startup (one long beep after the normal key-on beep), as the gauge is pegged full-up. Plus, I just like everything to work. Is the gauge needed? No. But, it is installed in the boat, so is should be in working order.
I have heard these "are the first thing to go" on a boat, so replacing is supposed to be fairly common.
RODE'S WAY BOATS
01-19-2007, 01:14 PM
The easyiest way to do this is to remove the drive and the pivot housing. Then it is much more accessible.
Beer-30
02-28-2007, 12:10 AM
With the help of a freelance Merc mechanic, took off the drive and pivot housing. Replaced and dialed it in. All better.
Words of advice:
1. Even if your transom assembly says "SmartCraft" on it, you only need the regular trim sensor UNLESS you have the full SCraft gauge(s) and system.
2. When taken apart, there are two little "brushes" on each side of the potentiometer. Each of the two brushes have 4 tiny "fingers" to them. One of the fingers on one side broke off, in my case.
Otherwise, wires were all good and there was no corrosion or other abnormality.