PDA

View Full Version : bypass



john
05-08-2006, 11:15 PM
:boxed: i see and alot of boats with water inlet just to the water pump and have probs with pressure . i ran a bypass im wondering if the bypass will cause a prob because i dont see many with a bypass but i have not been boating thought i would just ask

SmokinLowriderSS
05-09-2006, 02:43 AM
It depends onm the plumbing setup. Folks running logs or water jacketed headers can (usually do) route the entire water flow thru the exhaust which dumps it out the exhaust outlets overboard. Injected take no water near idle and far less when runnin g faster so need some way to run a fair ammount of water thru the engine for cooling and dodge the headers with most of it. Typically this involves a banderlog valve or similar and an overboard bypass line.
Also some manner of pressure regulation is required as the cooling is tapped off the HIGH-PRESSURE side of the jet pump which can make several hundred PSI with a strong engine, far more than better ever see the gaskets in your block should ever see. Like a lot of people, I am running "old school" with a controll valve on my inlet line and unrestricted dumps out my jacketed TT headers. Very little pressure develops this was as the valve restricts the flow in to less than the flow capacity out. Some people run a pressure regulated setup with a special valve and an overboard dump (or 2 with inj headers, 1 for the regulator, 1 for the banderlog bypass water).
That's pretty much the gist of it. :)

john
05-09-2006, 06:01 AM
http://www.***boat.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=13522&stc=1

Nucking futs
05-09-2006, 06:20 AM
I would get rid of the hose from the inlet that goes to the thermostat housing. Im not sure why you even have that there.That would supply water to the water outlet. I may be missing something, but Ive never seen that before.

Nucking futs
05-09-2006, 11:21 AM
I just looked again and there is no dump line. you have them both routed to the headers. That won't work. Take one side of the thermostat housing and t it to the headers with a valve to regulate the water flow and take the line from the other side and take it straight to the transom for the dump line.

SmokinLowriderSS
05-09-2006, 02:26 PM
I can't manage to decipher WHAT that all is ... bu tit looks dangerous to things. :yuk:
K.I.S.J... Keep It Simple John.
If those headers are injected, they need to be dry anywhere near idle, no water flow untill they are able to blow it up and out.
Run the water line from the pump thru a valve to insure you don't get too much pressure.
Run the line from the valve to a "T" fitting.
Run the 2 lines from the "T" to the front of the block where the water pump belongs.
Have 2 outlets from the thermostat housing.
Run 1 line from the t-stat housing to the overboard dump port.
Run the other to a banderlog or similar header water controll valve.
Run the output line from the banderlog to a "T" and those 2 lines to the header manifolds.
You can put a valve in ahead of the banderlog valve to limit the max ammount of water the headers will get, they don't need a lot.
There are other ways to do it, some involve pressure relief valves as well. This is simple, direct, and works well on lots of folks' here boats.

john
05-09-2006, 04:57 PM
http://www.***boat.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=13532&stc=1 http://www.***boat.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=13531&stc=1 the left side goes to the headers and out to the transom the right goes to the header to the oil cooler and out tru the transom.
http://www.***boat.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=13530&stc=1 http://www.***boat.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=13532&stc=1[/IMG]

SmokinLowriderSS
05-09-2006, 05:45 PM
What is that in front of the timing cover? It looks like a feed from the pump, to a split into the block (the good), AND a feed to the t-stat housing (the strange).

Nucking futs
05-09-2006, 05:47 PM
Its still not right. From the inlet from the pump attached to a gate valve and then to the oil cooler and from the oil cooler straight to your crossover tube on the front of the engine where the water pump would mount. Then eliminate the hose from the crossover tube that goes to the thermostat housing. Take either line on the out (thermostat housing) and run it straight to a dump at the transom.Take the otherside (thermostat housing) and T it to the headers. Why would you want hot water running through your oil cooler? Im not baggin on ya here, just trying to help you out and the way its plumbed now it will never work and you are asking for alot of trouble. I will try to find a picture to help you out. Be right back.
Looks like squirtcha? gets to be the example here. Read through and look at the pictures.
header plumbing (http://www2.***boat.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37425&highlight=header+plumbing)

john
05-09-2006, 05:59 PM
i dont think of it as knocking me i didnt know i thought the cold water from the cold bypass at the top thermostat (cold) with the engine (hot) would cool the oil im running a 14 qt oil pan this boat stuff is killing me

Nucking futs
05-09-2006, 06:02 PM
See my above post for the edit.

john
05-09-2006, 06:08 PM
i guess my idea suck damn that thremostat and the waterpump thang was costly but thanks

Nucking futs
05-09-2006, 06:10 PM
http://www.bassettracing.com/images/diagramjet.gif
This is the bassett diagram

hondajoey
05-09-2006, 06:27 PM
its good you asked these guys i had mine setup wrong on my first plumb job i had all the water trying to go into the headers without a dump line and i had to redo the motor. the bassett setup works well and be sure to use gate valves not ball valves off the pump & for the bypass

john
05-09-2006, 06:31 PM
ihave two dump lines but the oil cooler is the porb i thought the hot and cold water would have been cool enought for the oil cooler to stay cool and the dumb ass hose in the middle :cry: :cry: :cry:

Taylorman
05-09-2006, 06:36 PM
Do you have a thermostat in the water outlet on the intake?

john
05-09-2006, 06:46 PM
yes

cruser
05-09-2006, 11:15 PM
If you plan on continuing to use that thermostat in the thermostat housing, you will need that dumb bypass hose from the block inlet to the thermostat housing. Otherwise, gate valve or not on the outlet from the pump, you will create too much pressure in the block while the thermostat is closed. The thermostat only has a ~1/8th inch hole in it to allow the air in the block/heads to escape while the butterfly is closed. That is smaller than the setting on the gate valve and will restrict water flow, causing pressure behind it too build until the thermostat opens allowing the gate valve to be the restriction it is meant to be. The advice others here have given assumes you are not running a thermostat.