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HammerDown
04-12-2003, 01:03 PM
So my friend wants to pull my BBC & Bellhousing out of my boat, with my Aluminum Intake, with his carb plate! For some reason I'm a little worried about the Aluminum threads pulling out of the Intake eek! and the motor droping cry ...
Has anyone ever pulled a 750+Lb. motor out with a carb plate and Aluminum Intake?
[ April 12, 2003, 02:05 PM: Message edited by: HammerDown ]

Kindsvater Flat
04-12-2003, 02:01 PM
I have seen it done yet I have never done it. It makes me nervous. I always go back to the heads.

Maxey
04-12-2003, 02:03 PM
I have used a "carb plate" twice to pull a 502 BBC. I was nervous, as you are, but it worked fine. I would
reccomend a quality billet plate.

sanger mike
04-12-2003, 02:18 PM
I second K FLAT go to the heads. if those studs pulled out you would be burningm and cry cry

DansBlown73Nordic
04-12-2003, 02:29 PM
I have used a plate with the studs without any problems. If you ever took any metallergical courses you wouldn't believe the strength of a couple 1/4 bolts.

HammerDown
04-12-2003, 02:37 PM
Thanks for the replys...a little nervous...yes.
Dan it's not the 1/4" bolts I'm worried about, it's the Aluminum threads in the Intake that has me thinking.

Infomaniac
04-12-2003, 04:02 PM
Make sure the 5/16 bolts are threaded in as far as they can go. Use all 4 of them and make sure the plate is tight. It works.
I bolt a chain to the heads myself.
[ April 12, 2003, 09:17 PM: Message edited by: Infomaniac ]

lovemyultra
04-12-2003, 08:13 PM
I have done it on a complete 460 several times,just make sure it is tight and the bolts are threaded all the way down.The plate is conveniant if you feel better put a safety chain on the heads just in case GOOD LUCK DJ

LeE ss13
04-13-2003, 07:14 AM
It seems like every Super Stock Circle Boat race I've been to, someone changes an engine. They all seem to use the carb plate deal. Last weekend was no exception. Dave B. in SS91 swapped out a motor between rounds.

BAF#276
04-13-2003, 08:20 AM
dont trust the plate

BAF#276
04-13-2003, 08:23 AM
also use a safety chain

Fiat48
04-13-2003, 09:03 AM
I use an engine level puller similar to this one I found on Ebay. I think I bought mine at Summit. Very handy device and lets you tilt the engine or engine & trans as needed. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2410704204&category=6754

Dyce51
04-13-2003, 09:08 AM
I have done several engine swaps....I have seen a carb plate used before with the engine trans combo but I wouldnt try it...I have done it with just ang engine but never the combo....I have always used the heads

gnarley
04-13-2003, 09:09 AM
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Infomaniac:
Make sure the 5/16 bolts are threaded in as far as they can go.
Info, you know that it doesn't really matter that you have as much thread in as far as it can go? The bolt is only as strong as the cross section of the bolt so a 1/4" bolt only needs to be in a little more than 1/4" to do what is needed, anything more than that is just extra. This is assuming though that all your threads are good, how many times have you seen a bolt break due to weight & just shear the shank or stretch the threads? Even though I know this I still like to put a little extra in also for whatever piece of mind it gives me.
When we changed engines on the race cars we used a carb plate, at home I like to use the tilter like Fiat48 uses.
[ April 13, 2003, 10:12 AM: Message edited by: gnarley ]

rrrr
04-14-2003, 11:03 AM
Run two carbs, like me. Then each bolt only has to carry 175 lbs., heheh. :D

69 Elim
04-14-2003, 11:49 AM
I've used the carb plate more times than I can count on SBC's. Never an issue, never a worry.

Essex502
04-14-2003, 01:46 PM
Unless my calculations are off...it appears that for a 1/4-20 steel bolt in aluminum alloy intake manifold you should have a minimum of 3/8" thread engagement to prevent the aluminum threads from stripping. A lot of assumptions as to exact material properties of the bolt or stud and the aluminum were made.
:)

Infomaniac
04-14-2003, 01:52 PM
gnarley:
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Infomaniac:
Make sure the 5/16 bolts are threaded in as far as they can go.
Info, you know that it doesn't really matter that you have as much thread in as far as it can go? The bolt is only as strong as the cross section of the bolt so a 1/4" bolt only needs to be in a little more than 1/4" to do what is needed, anything more than that is just extra. This is assuming though that all your threads are good, how many times have you seen a bolt break due to weight & just shear the shank or stretch the threads? Even though I know this I still like to put a little extra in also for whatever piece of mind it gives me.Thats interesting. Maybe thread them all the way in not for the bolt but because the first few threads are sometimes not in the best of shape. :cool:

dossangers
04-14-2003, 02:31 PM
HammerDown:
So my friend wants to pull my BBC & Bellhousing out of my boat, with my Aluminum Intake, with his carb plate! For some reason I'm a little worried about the Aluminum threads pulling out of the Intake eek! and the motor droping cry ...
Has anyone ever pulled a 750+Lb. motor out with a carb plate and Aluminum Intake? Wouldnt even think of pulling a big block with a carb plate why risk it?

HammerDown
04-14-2003, 03:18 PM
When it comes down to the pull time...I'll make a strong suggestion for some chains to the heads.
[ April 14, 2003, 05:48 PM: Message edited by: HammerDown ]

126driver
04-14-2003, 03:21 PM
We pull our motors all of the time with a carb plate. Who wants to scratch polished aluminum heads? :rolleyes: wink

SchellSchock
04-15-2003, 10:00 AM
Just a couple of notes:
1. All bolts are NO stronger than the cross section of their diameter as stated earlier. Designing with safety built in minimum thread engagement length is usually 1 1/2 times thread dia. 3/8 for a 1/4 bolt- 3/4 for a 1/2 bolt etc..
2. The min tensil load carring for a 5/16 bolt is in the area of 2,850 lbs for SAE Grade 1 to 7,850 lbs for a SAE Grade 8. This isn't the real issue though as tensil is the force required to grab both ends and pul the bolt apart. Shearing is some less than that and assuming you can't perfectly level the engine will removing I would reduce that by 1/2. This means 1500-3700 lbs holding strenght for the bolts.
3.However the main issue is the thread strength of a material that is less than optimum. All manifolds are cast alum and this is the weak point. That in conjuction with the fact that most threads are tapped with a standard 75% full thread the holding strength of the manifold thread itself is in the range of 200 lbs per hole. So if the engine tranny combo weighs less than this I would say it is OK but marginal.
Why chance it. May work 999 times out of 1,000 but if you are the 1?????
Use the head bolts with a leveler as mentioned earlier.

Blown 472
04-15-2003, 10:03 AM
http://www.mopartsracing.com/parts/blocks/hemi528.jpg

HammerDown
05-07-2003, 04:02 PM
Pulled motor last Sat. used Carb Plate...no issues, everything went fine. Motor was out and in with new Oil Pan in under 4 hrs....and that was taking out time and lowering port side motor mount. 1/8"