synthetic oil

[lovemyultra]

Does anyone know where and if you can purchase regular 40w oil in a synthetic all I can find is multi grade

[Eric455]

napa
valvoline racing strait 40.
if they dont have racing just get regular vavoline. and nothing but. nake sure to get the fram racing oil filter. (provides good oil pressure)
eric

[ric232]

Make sure the Valvoline Racing oil is a detergent oil. Many times, the racing oils are non-detergent.
Your other option is Royal Purple, which is available in straight-weight grades.

[HCS]

Yep, Valvoline racing oil that's the stuff. My boat calls for 30wt.

[comin' unscrewed]

lovemyultra:
Does anyone know where and if you can purchase regular 40w oil in a synthetic all I can find is multi grade What's wrong with the multi grade synthetic?

[HammerDown]

comin' unscrewed:
lovemyultra:
Does anyone know where and if you can purchase regular 40w oil in a synthetic all I can find is multi grade What's wrong with the multi grade synthetic? They really thin out?

[comin' unscrewed]

HammerDown:
They really thin out? As compared to single viscosity grades? No, they don't.

[LVjetboy]

Actually, that's a very good question comin'
Obviously, something is added to the oil to give it a multi-weight property. How that additive degrades over time or temperature, and what effect if any on lubrication quality is an open question.
Anyone know for sure? I'm thinking not.
jer

[HammerDown]

All's I know when I tryed multi grade Syn in my ol air Cooled Harley it got as thin as water...I took it out asap. Straight wt.Dino seems to hold better psi at the guage.

[pgf127rt]

Amsoil has graded synthetic, I used it in my PGF, and it held up very well.

[Squeezing Spectra]

Ultra try Torco they have what you are looking for if you dont mind spending a little extra for a good oil. Bruce

[Essex502]

Synthetic oil has natural lubrication properties higher than petroleum based oils. The fact that it appears thin doesn't mean that the lubrication ability of the oil is degraded. I have seen test lab reports and photos of extreme pressure and heat having virtually no effect on the lubrication for synthetics where petroleum based oils went to hell. We've used synthetics in drag racing engines for over 20 years to no ill effects. The reason it's not more popular in racing is because of the contigency money the oil companies pay the winners for using their product. IMHO

[Super D]

Tell me if this is true or not - I heard synthetics are soooooo viscous, that they can actually cause flat spots on the cam lobes because they are skipping, not rolling on the lifters. Anybody ever heard of this? :confused:

[Essex502]

I doubt that that is true without some form of empirical testing. Have heard that stated but haven't seen it in any vehicle - street, race or marine.

[Essex502]

Super D -- after rereading your post I think you mean lacking viscousity or having too much lubricity. Being more viscous would mean thicker, wouldn't it?

[OMEGA_BUBBLE_JET]

I know that synthetic oil is better right down to the molecule. the molecular structure is smaller and denser creating a lubricant that has a better penetrating capability. Thin oil goes places thick oil won't. it's like screwing a fat chick.....you just can't get enough penetration. Lighter oil also won't pump up lifters as quickly as heavy oil. I don't understand the concept of running 50wt oil and a high pressure oil pump. 30psi of oil is more than enough. I have used synthetic oil for years and love it. Thinner is better for me. I run castrol syntec 10w-30 in mine. No problems yet.

[HammerDown]

This is a comment Mr. Gary Teague from Teague Performance says about Synthetic Oil. I tend to belive Mr. Teague knows his business.
" This is a widely debated topic. Of course, the synthetic oil manufacturers would want you to believe that their products are going to increase your engine life. I have used a few synthetic oils with pretty good success, including Red Line, Mobil 1, and Amsoil to name a few.
In racing applications, I have done testing by using two different types of oil in each engine in the same boat. After the race, when the engine was disassembled, there was evidence that the synthetic oil was slightly superior in the competition environment. The same results have not been observed in the recreational marine engines, though.
More recently, I have noticed that engines with roller lifters used in the pleasure-boat environment have exhibited undesirable wear patterns when synthetic oil is used. Specifically, because the oil is more "slippery," it appears that the rollers are sliding on the cam instead of rolling. This results in flat spots on the rollers and increased wear on the cam lobe. This problem only seems to present itself with lower valve-spring tension applications typically used with hydraulic roller cams. In race applications, with solid roller setups where 250 or more pounds of spring pressure exists when the valve is on the seat, there seems to be enough pressure to keep the roller on the lifter rolling on the cam instead of sliding.
Depending on your climate and the water temperature you typically operate your boat in, the viscosity of your oil should be selected accordingly. I believe that a straight grade SAE 40 oil is the most suitable for the majority of the performance marine engines. SAE 30 would be better for cooler climates. For extreme performance and supercharged engines, SAE 50 is suggested. Most synthetics are a multi-viscosity oil. Fuel dilution of the oil and contamination as a result of increased moisture in the crankcase seems to affect the multi-viscosity oils faster.
The most important thing is that you change your engine oil regularly and use a good quality oil. I think an oil change every 25 to 50 hours is a good idea. The higher performance your engine is, the more often the oil and filter should be changed. I use Kendall SAE 40 in all the pleasure boats in our Southern California climate, and SAE 50 in the hot rods.
I have found the synthetic oils are always superior in gear boxes, blower gear cases, and stern drives. Red Line's 80-140, and Amsoil's 80-90W, to name a couple, seem to provide extra protection in Bravo drives. If you are a reader that has a Casale V-drive in your boat, put synthetic oil in it. You will be surprised how much cooler it operates."
[ April 30, 2003, 05:33 PM: Message edited by: HammerDown ]

[gnarley]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by OMEGA_BUBBLE_JET:
I have used synthetic oil for years and love it. Thinner is better for me. I run castrol syntec 10w-30 in mine. No problems yet.
But what temp does your engine get to & how often do you change your oil?
This subject comes around every year & there are definitely 2 sides to this, the pro synthetic oil & the pro conventional oil. I just have a little trouble with the polymers in the synthetic that can break over time and reduce the working viscosity of the synthetic oil. I believe it can have a tremendous effect on a motor & make additional HP if you use it but I had a motor failure many, many years ago when I wanted to believe in the sales crap. Do you remember that graphite oil? I think Mobil made it & I always blamed that oil on it so I have stuck to conventional ever since, but I would now consider trying the synthetics as they seem to have come a long way.

[HammerDown]

I belive it was "ARCO" that came out with the graphite oil.
I will have to take the experience of Mr Teague, and my own trial with Syn. to stick with the Dino Oil for my Boat and Harley.
PS.Rumor has it Castrol isnt a true Synthetic.

[gnarley]

HD I believe you are right! That was about 25 years ago so the memory got a little fuzzy. None the less I had a bad experience & haven't wanted to try a synthetic since.

[OMEGA_BUBBLE_JET]

my engine runs at 190-200 degrees with the synthetic and it does fine. I have always been a castrol guy so no bad experiences yet. I know that castrol is a high detergent motor oil and can and will keep your engine sludge free. I run the synthetic in both my 2002 sierra and my 2001 tahoe. They both experienced a 1-2 mpg increase in fuel efficiency after the second oil change. I waited until it hit 10,000 miles on both before running it to allow rings to seat good etc. I always watch my mileage on every tank and have seen it increase. I have run castrol syntec for about 6 years now in cars, boats, lawnmowers. When I started using it in my 1979 chevy truck I had to turn the idle down. It picked up 150 rpm. So yes I believe in the stuff and it has worked great for me. A couple extra bucks once a year is well worth it in comparison to a grand to rebuild my engine. I always use premium oil filters too. No Fram. they have about the cheapest filter on the market. I personally like the ACDelco filters.

[Posey]

What about the oil Mercruiser uses? Has anyone had any bad experience with it? I prefer a straight weight oil myself, I use castrol with no problems. I'll have to agree synthetic is the way to go on outdrives or any gear box, they run cooler with less friction (drag). Make a little more hp. :D
Posey

[gnarley]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by OMEGA_BUBBLE_JET:
I waited until it hit 10,000 miles on both before running it to allow rings to seat good etc.
OBJ both your rigs are Chevy's? No need to wait! I recently read somewhere how critical Chevy is on its cylinder finish & ring specs. The Cylinders are finished so smooth that they tell you NOT to use a glaze breaker or hone the cylinders as it WILL ruin the finish & stop the rings from sealing if you were to replace the rings. They are extremely high quality & you don't need to wait to have them seat, they already are! This is old school thinking, & I was doing it too! I’ll try to find the article, I think it was on the Goodwrench website.

[OMEGA_BUBBLE_JET]

gnarley,
this applies to the 5.3 vortec's? that what I have in both rigs. I had a 99 before my truck now and it had piston slap bad. I wonder if this might be attributed to the design in these cylinder walls. they told me it was common and that they could do nothing for it. funny how quick they were to give me a 1500 dollar gm loyalty certificate if i traded it in on a new one. the new one has no problems yet. neither does tahoe. but i know these new engines are plagued with piston slap. especially the 6.0 liters. if you know anyone who has this problem tell them to contact BBB auto line. they got gm straightened out for me. If the vehicle has less than 24,000 miles on it gm will buy it back from you, or at least that's what they said. One question. If the rings don't have to seat anymore why do they still tell you vary speeds no wide open throttle for 500 miles in the manual? I didn't know that though. thanks for the info.

[gnarley]

OBJ, I don't know about the 500 mile thing anymore. It might be for ALL drive-train related parts. My opinion is screw it, if its under warranty I just as soon break it & let them fix it under warranty & with all of their quality control there is NO reason you shouldn't be able to MAT-IT when its new, If it breaks they did something wrong

[BrendellaJet]

My Chevy Silverado has got piston slap bad too. I read here somewhere that it was a problem on them a while ago. Mine has the 4.8, tows well, but I dont think ill be buying another Chevy though, unless I go with a deisel. As far as oil goes, I use Mobil1. I have a friend who uses Motul(sportbike stuff). His dad uses is it in all of their cars(viper, Beemers and a few others) A few years ago they replaced the small block in his truck with a crate motor-not because it needed it, but because it had 200k miles and they use it to tow for their shop. This thing put in some severe duty. When we pulled the small block apart, it was beautiful inside. Did not need a rebuild, it looked fresh. Motul works, if you wanna spend the dough.