Need Stringers Replaced

[round2]

Hi everyone. Well I just got my motor back from S & S from San Leandro and I was getting ready to install it when a buddy of mine noticed the fiberglass was seperating from the stringer due to a 3ft. long crack in the fiberglass near the transom area. In the middle section of the boat the stringer is seperating from the hull about a 1/4 inch. The stringer is intact but the fiberglass just seems to be seperating now. I know this is not a good thing and I would like to have this repair done right. I had a great response from fellow ***boat members when I needed my motor rebuilt. I have a 1980 Hallett 21' cruiser w/454 and berkeley pump. I have called a company in Clovis called Fiberglass Unlimited (559) 299-8826) and spoke to the owner (Manny Lopez) and he quoted me a rough estimate of $4500 to replace both stringers. Is this a decent price and is there anyone closer who can do a great job? I am a believer of "you get what you paid for".

[IMPATIENT 1]

do it yourself and save 4k.i did my taylor sc daycuiser and it took
about a 20hrs including new floor.stringers are easy to replace most of the time.i've personally only done taylors but can't see how another brand would be that tuff. :hammerhea

[bighead]

Go for it and do it yorself. I had the same problem with my boat and had to do the stringers and floor,could not find anyone to do it this year and waited way too long to do it myself. I spent around 600 bucks for tools and materials. There is a good bit of info on this site and you can also go to the library or bookstore for research and how to books. I had never done anyhting like this before and was somewhat unsure but once I got going it was suprisingly easy although messy. The new resins and mat/ cloths available made it much easier.GO FOR IT.

[round2]

bighead,
what mat/cloths did you use and what special tools do you need? the guy i spoke to said that he has to make a mold of the bottom to support the boat before removing the stringers. how did you approach that portion of the repair?

[IMPATIENT 1]

bighead,
what mat/cloths did you use and what special tools do you need? the guy i spoke to said that he has to make a mold of the bottom to support the boat before removing the stringers. how did you approach that portion of the repair?
this is my tool list for doin it (everybody has there own way):
@30 of the cheapest 1.00 paint brush sets i could buy
@6gallons of resin(buy extra hardner,you'll need it)bondo brand is fine for me
@20 bags(i think they were like 4ft. by 8ft. sheets)fiberglass cloth
@2 gallons of acetone(to thin resin alittle)
cut off wheels to remove old glass
grinder
belt sander
the wood materials(i like marine 1/2 on the floor glassed over and under)but it's up to you and your needs
anywhere that i could brace my stringers alittle i did it.
alot of face masks!!this is a must do!!you'll thank yourself for buying them
a cool shower helps me get the itching off
this is all i can remember using on the 21ft. taylor i had other than carpet and glue.you'll get alot more advise on this i'm sure.
my total cost on the stringers and floor where in the 450-500range.
make it a winter project, learning how to use fiberglass,owning a jet it's something ya need to know! :clover:

[bighead]

It never occured to me to do any mold of the bottom before repairs as I am a ametuer idiot, the boat drives same as before though.After I was finished I thought of it and figured if it is sitting on the trailer cockeyed the new floor and stringers are gonna hold that shape real good now.It sure lost all the flex and twisting action it had before as the stringers were totally rotted and offered no structural suport at all, I can really tell the boat is much more rigid now and it is a open bow 21 footer so it did flex a lot, thanfully no stress cracks. As for tools, heavy duty scissors,bondo spreades, lots of cheapie paint brushes, a roller gizzie they sell at TAPP plastics,A lot of plastic pans and small pails for mixing, measurng and such, tape and paper to protect the rest of the boat and cruddy old clothes and shoes. As far as materials I purchased everything from a outfit called TAPP plastics and truthfully do not remember exactly what I used. The resin was a polyester ??type I think and was for structural work and seemed pretty forgiving to work with although the dry time was fast as hell, I did the work in mid July.The mat or cloth used was a combination of two types sewn together and was remarkably easy to use too, if I would have paid someone the 5 grand and then did some work later and realized how much easier it was than I had thought I wold have been sorta upset. I think there was more hours involved in the deconstruction and prep work than with the actual rebuild process.Like I said do a search here on ***boat and you will find a lot of good info and I am sure some of the others will give you much more advice as they did for me. Thanks again Nuckin futs. feel free to call if you want, 916-240-1551.

[Riverdog1]

Good Advice here. Save the $4500 and do it yourself. Did mine a couple years ago, not all that hard to do. Just make sure you use good wood. I rounded the edges a bit with the grinder. Also, alternate the thick mat with the finish mat between layers. It also helps to use the resin that stays tacky until the last layer. Make sure the new ones are dead nuts and start glassin. If I knew people are getting that kind of Jack for this work, I would have been doing it myself. $4500 for 20 hours is like $225/hour. Ok, so there is some material in there but geez.

[Jake W2]

Make a mold of the bottom thats funny.
If it is sitting on the trailer stright with the bunks going all the way to the transom and nose sitting on the crank up roller it should not move.
I replaced the stringers on a 77 bubble deck Tahiti and it was sitting on the trailer it came out fine .
Things I would do diffrent then the guy above
1, buy the matt from a glass repair shop off a roll it will be 4 feet long this way and not folded up .
2, get the resin there all so if you can they will have the rite actovator for the time of year slower of faster.It will make a diffrence if you are a first timer.(if not any polyester rersien will do)
3, a 4 inch grinder is your best friend you will not need any other tool than this to cut and grind the glass for prep.
4, use a cheep brush MAKE SURE IT IS NOT PLASTIC (wse the wood kind)
5,route the edges of the new stringers
you can write a full page of what to and not to do I would do a search on the subject .
Jake

[bradbigsley]

Good Advice here. Save the $4500 and do it yourself. Did mine a couple years ago, not all that hard to do. Just make sure you use good wood. I rounded the edges a bit with the grinder. Also, alternate the thick mat with the finish mat between layers. It also helps to use the resin that stays tacky until the last layer. Make sure the new ones are dead nuts and start glassin. If I knew people are getting that kind of Jack for this work, I would have been doing it myself. $4500 for 20 hours is like $225/hour. Ok, so there is some material in there but geez.
he's right. fiberglass does not like 90 degree turns structural and apperance wise. find some cotton fiber and mixit with the resin to give you a radius where the bottom of the boat meets the new stringer. this will also bond the stringer to the boat which makes it easier to lay the glass. wear long sleeves and pants and i hope you like cold showers.

[tahitijet]

Fiberglass unlimitied dose very good work.. HOwever they are extremely overpriced. When i was talking to them about doing mine before i decided to they wanted to seperate the top and bottom and do all kinds of extra work. in total i think for just the transom and stringers (short stringers) they wanted 6k.. I did a setback, blueprinted the bottom installed full length stringers, and replaced the transom and probably don't even have 800 in it.. Just remember to work in small amounts of resin.. it's very easy to mix less and work slow then mix alot and have to work fast. Just leave the boat on the trailer make sure it's sitting good, level and fully on the bunks.. make sure the bunks are tight to the boat with no kinks, twist, or warps. Support the boat with jack stands and blocks of wood anywhere you think it needs additional support,. I would also attempt to locate a center line for you boat so you are completly sure the stringers go back in centered and level to the boat.

[Oldsquirt]

You might also give these guys a call. They're in Lodi.Canyon Boats (http://canyonboatsinc.com/)

[round2]

i will give those guys a call at canyon boats. they are really close to me so im hoping they can help me. i would love to do this project at home but i am a single dad and all my free time goes to spending it with my 4 yr. old girl. i will see if canyon can give me a great price if not i will enlist the help from friends who love being paid with beer and pizza.