What oil weight do you use and WHY

[gnarley]

There seems to be a lot of talk and questions around the forums regarding oil. A lot of you seem to use a variety of oils and weights with a variety of engines.
I am curious to find out why you use the oil you do, AND if you know what the numbers mean in the choice of your oil, specially the multi grade users.
Did you pick your oil?
Did your manual suggest your oil?
Did your engine builder suggest your oil?
What year, make & size is your engine?
Do you know what the numbers mean in your oil?
[This message has been edited by gnarley (edited April 29, 2002).]

[rivercrazy]

The manual in my Marine Power 454 mag recommends strait 40W oil. I used that for about 100 hours. Then I switched to Syn Oil (specifically Mobil 1). The heaviest they offer is 15W50 hence what I use. I have also used Valvoline full Syn in 20W-50 and it works good also.
The things I notice about Syn versus conventional oil is the oil pressure stays higher when hot. To me that says the oil is generally running cooler or not thinning as much with heat.

[Costello]

I run Mobil 1 5-30.
I selected this oil based upon
a) machined tolerances of this particular engine, (e.g. automotive = tight)
b) oil temp while hot is still relatively cool (145F). Oil pan has it's own temp sending unit, and boat runs an oil cooler.
It is a mildly built 460ci Chevrolet.
As to what it means; it's a viscosity rating, 5 weight while the engine is cold, for easy wear on the bearings during startups, http://free.***boat.net/ubb/wink.gif 30 weight at operating temperature.
Did I pass? http://free.***boat.net/ubb/biggrin.gif

[gnarley]

Originally posted by Costello:
Did I pass? http://free.***boat.net/ubb/biggrin.gif
I'll tell you later. I want to see what a lot of others think as well then I will post info regarding the topic of multi-weights that might open a few eyes.

[INFINITEJJ]

1 - I did pick my oil, straight 40 weight.
2 - The boat is a 1975 there is no manual.
3 - Had no engine builder, bought the boat used.
4 - Block 71 ford 460, heads 70 cobra jet, don't know when it was put together.
5 - The numbers on a multi-weight oil means, at cold temps the oil will flow like the weight of the low number, and at 212 degrees F the oil is only as thin as the higher number. Polymers are what is used as a viscosity thickening agent.
Dang I need a spell checker!!
[This message has been edited by INFINITEJJ (edited April 29, 2002).]

[disco_charger]

I actually just started running Straight 30 wt and an oil cooler. I was pulling 60 to 75 pounds of pressure. I don't have the faintest idea about the heads or bottom end of my motor, cause when pops and I bought it 11 years ago, we said we'd rebuild when she started to stumble. I bought Dad out a few years ago, and it still runs good. Next trip, I'm gonna give 20-50 a try. http://free.***boat.net/ubb/wink.gif

[CV-23]

I just use plain old merCruiser 25-40w in my 350/260hp. That way when things break I'll just blame them....Ok gnarly, whats your choice....Mike.

[waterbum]

The first number represents the low temp at which the oil will still flo freely.The second number represents the strength of the oil film.15w50 Mobil 1 is what I use because I have proven to my self that my engines hold better hot oil pressure and lower oil temps which means synthetic doesn't break down as fast and reduces friction in your engine.Less friction and heat = a very happy engine which = a very happy me. http://free.***boat.net/ubb/smile.gif Bum

[BlownChevy]

OK, what i would suggest to use for oil would be a low winter number (in 20W50 the "W" means winter not weight) and then use a higher warmed up number (50) The reason the "w" stands for winter is because in the winter (cold) time the oil wont go lower then a 10 weight when it is cold...(0 weight equals water) then when the engine warms up it wont go past 50 weight unless it is overheated, contaminated, or old and breaks down... this is what i have learned from my shop teacher and specs from oil company's... it seams like the oil should get thinner when hotter but it is the petroleum in the oil that counter acts this affect i believe...So it is better to use oil that has a low winter weight and a high warmed up weight so the oil weight can change steadily while the engine warms up.... hope this was help!
Logan

[INFINITEJJ]

The "W" means the oil meets specifications for viscosity at 0 degrees F and is therfore suitable for winter use.The greater the differance between the low and the high number the more polymers or thickening agents that must be used to make the oil do the job.
[This message has been edited by INFINITEJJ (edited April 29, 2002).]

[moomba]

Originally posted by gnarley:
I'll tell you later. I want to see what a lot of others think as well then I will post info regarding the topic of multi-weights that might open a few eyes.
I use 30w Valvoline racing oil. No multigrades ever in a marine engine. When are you going to post the info on multi-grades?

[BlownChevy]

Why dont you use multi grades???
Logan

[moomba]

Originally posted by BlownChevy:
Why dont you use multi grades???
Logan
All multi-grades (dino) start with the "W" number as a base oil. Then add viscosity improvers to make it "act" like the bigger number at 212f. The viscosity improvers are polymere (plastic) chains that curl up when cold and get longer when hot. By getting longer, the take up the space of a thicker oil. But the do not lubricate. They also can be cut in half during high stress .So a 20w-50 starts out as a 20w oil. And lubricates like a 20w oil. Pretty thin - huh?

[rivercrazy]

If that is the case, I wonder why every major car manufacturer recommends multigrade oils then???? Most of em are recommending 5W-30 these days as well. Are you saying that its just 5W oil when hot?

[moomba]

Originally posted by rivercrazy:
If that is the case, I wonder why every major car manufacturer recommends multigrade oils then???? Most of em are recommending 5W-30 these days as well. Are you saying that its just 5W oil when hot?
It is a 5w that acts like a 30w when hot. Cars are under no load, so they do not "sqeeze" the oil down to a 5w. Boats are constantly under a huge load to get thru the water. Plus they do it for CAFE reasons. Better milage with thin oil, (but more wear)

[gnarley]

OK guys I'll get back in this now. A few of you have a real good handle on this I think and some including me might even learn some more. I don’t want to post the info yet on the Multi Weights, lets see who else has input or info and really why does everyone use the oil they do???
Originally posted by CV-23:
Ok gnarly, whats your choice....Mike.
My choices??? That depends on the engine, year of the engine, clearance in the motor, type usage and/or recommendation of the manufacture or builder.
I do not like multi weights with a large span like a 15w-50 and I feel anything with a 30-point spread is pushing the limits of the polymers to take up the limits of what a normal viscosity oil would do, especially in a high performance application.
A 20-point spread I think is OK. But anyone who uses a 15w-50 in an older style engine that was not designed with tight clearances I feel is asking for trouble. The pumps, galleries, and other clearances were not designed to run the multi weight oils that were designed for the newer engines. It sure might crank over easily, but that’s because it has a low viscosity base. Why do some manufactures recommend a 10w-30??? Because they were designed for LOW viscosity oil, they are tight and that’s partly due to regulations. What makes Horse Power? A loose engine or a tight engine? Why do the fuel engines runs high clearances??? Because they make more HP with less friction, but to keep them from melting they need high viscosity oils to keep the rotating mass separated so they use oils like a 60 weight, and not a multi that I know of? In time the under extreme conditions the polymers in multi weight break their edges and the oil starts to loose its viscosity. Standard oil does not do this unless exposed to extreme heat or friction, which then breaks it down.
Come on, so why do you pick your oil??? Because of advertising it looks good? Or someone told you it was good, or you did your homework and found out what it would do?

[moomba]

Originally posted by gnarley:
Standard oil does not do this unless exposed to extreme heat or friction, which then breaks it down.
High rpm's will also shear down an oil very quickly
[This message has been edited by moomba (edited May 01, 2002).]

[Thunderbutt]

High performance motors are built with the clearances to produce more horse power and will accommodate the higher weights. I run straight 60 wt Valveoline in my boat and straight 30 wt in my truck. My boat motor is 30 years old and my truck has 275,000 miles, so I'm happy Originally posted by gnarley:
There seems to be a lot of talk and questions around the forums regarding oil. A lot of you seem to use a variety of oils and weights with a variety of engines.
I am curious to find out why you use the oil you do, AND if you know what the numbers mean in the choice of your oil, specially the multi grade users.
Did you pick your oil?
Did your manual suggest your oil?
Did your engine builder suggest your oil?
What year, make & size is your engine?
Do you know what the numbers mean in your oil?
[This message has been edited by gnarley (edited April 29, 2002).]

[Wet Dream]

Ok, dammit!!! My head is spinning. I have a '69 455, with new bearings on the crank, rods and cam. I can spin the motor at 5300. I have recently switched to a 9qt pan and noticed that the older 4qt would break down the oil within a few hours. What would be the recommended weight for a synthetic???

[gnarley]

Originally posted by Wet Dream:
Ok, dammit!!! My head is spinning. I have a '69 455, with new bearings on the crank, rods and cam. I can spin the motor at 5300. I have recently switched to a 9qt pan and noticed that the older 4qt would break down the oil within a few hours. What would be the recommended weight for a synthetic???
OK so you tell me. It's a 69 455 CID right??? What clearance is in it? Is it built like a NEW Big Block of any make? Does it have 0.0025 to 0.003 thousandths in the mains or is it tight with 0.001 to 0.0015 in the mains? And I don't even want to start on the rods and piston to cylinder clearance. If it’s new have you broken it in yet? What rings do you have and what does the ring maker say to use break them in?

[INFINITEJJ]

Boats should have looser tolerances than cars beacause of the constant and excesive loads. I have always liked straight weight oils.
Gnarly - the thicker the base oil the less viscosity improvers it take to make an oil with the same point spread. So a 10w-40 takes
more polymers than a 20w-50, both have the same point spread, but the base stock it was created from is the differance.

[Wet Dream]

Actually, it came right out of a car with 75,000 miles on it and a broken timing gear. The cylinders and pistons were in great shape, so everything was replaced except for the pistons and rings. So I'm sure the clearances are run out to a "loose" tolerance and the cam is what a jet calls for. Now what would you run???????

[HammerDown]

If ya installed a new flat tappet cam and lifters...breakin the motor with 30/wt. oil for 20 min. What I do is to use 20-50 in the cooler fall months, even though I'm running a thermostat. The multi wt. flows better to the areas needed at cold start up. When summer heat builds...I'll go to a 40wt. Kendall. After summer temp falls again, and I'm still boating in late October, I'll put back in the 20-50. Hope that answers your questions.

[Sandbar Mike]

Gnarley what's up,
Back in the day I had a 69 el camino ss, I had to run 20-50 oil in that 396 to keep it from leaking as much, j/k
Interesting subject, I'm waiting for your awnser to your original question.
Mike

[DetroitJim]

For what it's worth, I stopped worrying about oil type and high dollar pumps years ago. I run a stock pump from the local auto parts and install the higher pressure spring included. My clearances are 0.0002 to 0.0005 larger than stock. Oil is 10w30 of any type. I ran an 8-71 blown 468 up to 6400 rpm and beat the total crap out of it for two years. Tore it down to change the combination, and the bearings were barely shined up a little, no wear at all. The key is to set clearances correctly and balance the motor. Excessive oil pressure does nothing at all except waste horsepower and hose down the rings. 50 to 60 psi is more than enough below 7000 rpm on gas. High viscosity oil may help in some extreme applications or to compensate for a clearance problem. I agree that straight weight oil may be better, but I run in cold weather too often.
DJ

[StressTest]

I run RedLine 20-50 in my Scarab.
The 20-50 i was told to run by the machine shop that did the short block assembly for me and i also decided on it since my buddy's new 500EFI's say to run straight 50w in them from the factory. So i guess it should all work out in the end!
-Wally

[gnarley]

Originally posted by INFINITEJJ:
Boats should have looser tolerances than cars beacause of the constant and excesive loads. I have always liked straight weight oils.
Gnarly - the thicker the base oil the less viscosity improvers it take to make an oil with the same point spread. So a 10w-40 takes more polymers than a 20w-50, both have the same point spread, but the base stock it was created from is the difference.
Yeah, yeah I know, but sorry if I was not implying I did. I do agree boats should have looser tolerances to a point. Next point being the lower the base # and the higher lubricating capability the MORE polymers needed to increase the base to that factor. The bottom line, more polymers to fail on a molecular level that are supposed to be what is protecting your engine in the first place! What I meant by the 30 point spread is that it is still a lot for the viscosity improvers to handle! What about some of these oils like a 5w-50??? Boy they sure scare me! I just can’t see running 5w oil in anything including my 96 Impala that states it could use 5w-30 oil?
Originally posted by Wet Dream:
Actually, it came right out of a car with 75,000 miles on it and a broken timing gear. The cylinders and pistons were in great shape, so everything was replaced except for the pistons and rings. So I'm sure the clearances are run out to a "loose" tolerance and the cam is what a jet calls for. Now what would you run???????
WD, This is only my opinion but based on what you told me a 1969 engine and it has some wear on it I would start with a straight 30 weight for cam break-in and then switch to a 40w and never run cold oil hard, it needs to warm up first. Did you mic the lower end? Or plastiguage them? If not I feel this would be a good oil weight. I would do the research and find out which one is best, the same way I picked a cam, look at the numbers if you can find them.
Originally posted by DetroitJim:
Excessive oil pressure does nothing at all except waste horsepower and hose down the rings. 50 to 60 psi is more than enough below 7000 rpm on gas. High viscosity oil may help in some extreme applications or to compensate for a clearance problem.
DJ
I agree and high pressure can also help “wash out” the bearings, thanks for the input. I think you have a good combination that works for you. One of the reasons I started this thread was reading about oil pressure problems and using what I thought were the wrong weight oils for the application. All in all it is still personal preference like Chevy vs Ford.

[Hydro-Thunder]

OK so I do not want a high pressure oil pump but what kind of pressure does a high volume pump run?
I have a 460
Jesse
[This message has been edited by Hydro-Thunder (edited May 02, 2002).]

[gnarley]

Originally posted by Hydro-Thunder:
OK so I do not want a high pressure oil pump but what kind of pressure does a high volume pump run?
I have a 460
Jesse
HT, O/P depends on pump, clearances, weight oil and viscosity of the oil. Your right you do not want high pressure, only high volume. It's like asking how many miles will I get from my tires? But this is a little more subjective. The pump mfg would probably have an est. that is based on stock clearances and oil.

[spectras only]

I've run a 429 BBF on HD 40 penzoil for over 13 years with Melling HV pump.Engine still runs strong.Oil pressure 80 when cold,55-60 when hot,never drops below 40 at idle even after a hard run.

[gnarley]

OK here it is "More Than You Ever Wanted to Know About Motor Oil" http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-overview.html
So how does your oil stand up?
Multi viscosity oils work like this: Polymers are added to a light base (5W, 10W, 20W), which prevent the oil from thinning as much as it warms up. At cold temperatures the polymers are coiled up and allow the oil to flow as their low numbers indicate. As the oil warms up the polymers begin to unwind into long chains that prevent the oil from thinning as much as it normally would. The result is that at 100 degrees C the oil has thinned only as much as the higher viscosity number indicates. Another way of looking at multi-vis oils is to think of a 20W-50 as a 20 weight oil that will not thin more than a 50 weight would when hot.
Multi viscosity oils are one of the great improvements in oils, but they should be chosen wisely. Always use a multi grade with the narrowest span of viscosity that is appropriate for the temperatures you are going to encounter. In the winter base your decision on the lowest temperature you will encounter, in the summer, the highest temperature you expect. The polymers can shear and burn forming deposits that can cause ring sticking and other problems. 10W-40 and 5W-30 require a lot of polymers (synthetics excluded) to achieve that range. This has caused problems in diesel engines, but fewer polymers are better for all engines. The wide viscosity range oils, in general, are more prone to viscosity and thermal breakdown due to the high polymer content. It is the oil that lubricates, not the additives. Oils that can do their job with the fewest additives are the best.
Very few manufactures recommend 10W-40 any more, and some threaten to void warranties if it is used. It was not included in this article for that reason. 20W-50 is the same 30 point spread, but because it starts with a heavier base it requires less viscosity index improvers (polymers) to do the job. AMSOIL can formulate their 10W-30 and 15W-40 with no viscosity index improvers but uses some in the 10W-40 and 5W-30. Mobil 1 uses no viscosity improvers in their 5W-30, and I assume the new 10W-30. Follow your manufacturer's recommendations as to which weights are appropriate for your vehicle.
Viscosity Index is an empirical number indicating the rate of change in viscosity of an oil within a given temperature range. Higher numbers indicate a low change, lower numbers indicate a relatively large change. The higher the number the better. This is one major property of an oil that keeps your bearings happy. These numbers can only be compared within a viscosity range. It is not an indication of how well the oil resists thermal breakdown.
Flash point is the temperature at which an oil gives off vapors that can be ignited with a flame held over the oil. The lower the flash point the greater tendency for the oil to suffer vaporization loss at high temperatures and to burn off on hot cylinder walls and pistons. The flash point can be an indicator of the quality of the base stock used. The higher the flash point the better. 400 F is the minimum to prevent possible high consumption. Flash point is in degrees F.
Pour point is 5 degrees F above the point at which a chilled oil shows no movement at the surface for 5 seconds when inclined. This measurement is especially important for oils used in the winter. A borderline pumping temperature is given by some manufacturers. This is the temperature at which the oil will pump and maintain adequate oil pressure. This was not given by a lot of the manufacturers, but seems to be about 20 degrees F above the pour point. The lower the pour point the better. Pour point is in degrees F.
% sulfated ash is how much solid material is left when the oil burns. A high ash content will tend to form more sludge and deposits in the engine. Low ash content also seems to promote long valve life. Look for oils with a low ash content.
% zinc is the amount of zinc used as an extreme pressure, anti- wear additive. The zinc is only used when there is actual metal to metal contact in the engine. Hopefully the oil will do its job and this will rarely occur, but if it does, the zinc compounds react with the metal to prevent scuffing and wear. A level of .11% is enough to protect an automobile engine for the extended oil drain interval, under normal use. Those of you with high revving, air cooled motorcycles or turbo charged cars or bikes might want to look at the oils with the higher zinc content. More doesn't give you better protection, it gives you longer protection if the rate of metal to metal contact is abnormally high. High zinc content can lead to deposit formation and plug fouling.
The Data:
Listed alphabetically --- indicates the data was not available
The Data:
Listed alphabetically --- indicates the data was not available
Brand VI Flash Pour %ash %zinc
20W-50
AMSOIL 136 482 -38 <.5 ---
Castrol GTX 122 440 -15 .85 .12
Exxon High Performance 119 419 -13 .70 .11
Havoline Formula 3 125 465 -30 1.0 ---
Kendall GT-1 129 390 -25 1.0 .16
Pennzoil GT Perf. 120 460 -10 .9 ---
Quaker State Dlx. 155 430 -25 .9 ---
Red Line 150 503 -49 --- ---
Shell Truck Guard 130 450 -15 1.0 .15
Spectro Golden 4 174 440 -35 --- .15
Spectro Golden M.G. 174 440 -35 --- .13
Unocal 121 432 -11 .74 .12
Valvoline All Climate 125 430 -10 1.0 .11
Valvoline Turbo 140 440 -10 .99 .13
Valvoline Race 140 425 -10 1.2 .20
Valvoline Synthetic 146 465 -40 <1.5 .12
20W-40
Castrol Multi-Grade 110 440 -15 .85 .12
Quaker State 121 415 -15 .9 ---
15W-50
Chevron 204 415 -18 .96 .11
Mobil 1 170 470 -55 --- ---
Mystic JT8 144 420 -20 1.7 .15
Red Line 152 503 -49 --- ---
5W-50
Castrol Syntec 180 437 -45 1.2 .10 .095 % Phosphor
Quaker State Synquest 173 457 -76 --- ---
Pennzoil Performax 176 --- -69 --- ---
5W-40
Havoline 170 450 -40 1.4 ---
15W-40
AMSOIL 135 460 -38 <.5 ---
Castrol 134 415 -15 1.3 .14
Chevron Delo 400 136 421 -27 1.0 ---
Exxon XD3 --- 417 -11 .9 .14
Exxon XD3 Extra 135 399 -11 .95 .13
Kendall GT-1 135 410 -25 1.0 .16
Mystic JT8 142 440 -20 1.7 .15
Red Line 149 495 -40 --- ---
Shell Rotella w/XLA 146 410 -25 1.0 .13
Valvoline All Fleet 140 --- -10 1.0 .15
Valvoline Turbo 140 420 -10 .99 .13
10W-30
AMSOIL 142 480 -70 <.5 ---
Castrol GTX 140 415 -33 .85 .12
Chevron Supreme 150 401 -26 .96 .11
Exxon Superflo Hi Perf 135 392 -22 .70 .11
Exxon Superflo Supreme 133 400 -31 .85 .13
Havoline Formula 3 139 430 -30 1.0 ---
Kendall GT-1 139 390 -25 1.0 .16
Mobil 1 160 450 -65 --- ---
Pennzoil PLZ Turbo 140 410 -27 1.0 ---
Quaker State 156 410 -30 .9 ---
Red Line 139 475 -40 --- ---
Shell Fire and Ice 155 410 -35 .9 .12
Shell Super 2000 155 410 -35 1.0 .13
Shell Truck Guard 155 405 -35 1.0 .15
Spectro Golden M.G. 175 405 -40 --- ---
Unocal Super 153 428 -33 .92 .12
Valvoline All Climate 130 410 -26 1.0 .11
Valvoline Turbo 135 410 -26 .99 .13
Valvoline Race 130 410 -26 1.2 .20
Valvoline Synthetic 140 450 -40 <1.5 .12
5W-30
AMSOIL 168 480 -76 <.5 ---
Castrol GTX 156 400 -35 .80 .12
Chevron Supreme 202? 354 -46 .96 .11
Chevron Supreme Synt. 165 446 -72 1.1 .12
Exxon Superflow HP 148 392 -22 .70 .11
Havoline Formula 3 158 420 -40 1.0 ---
Mobil 1 165 445 -65 --- ---
Mystic JT8 161 390 -25 .95 .1
Quaker State 165 405 -35 .9 ---
Red Line 151 455 -49 --- ---
Shell Fire and Ice 167 405 -35 .9 .12
Unocal 151 414 -33 .81 .12
Valvoline All Climate 135 405 -40 1.0 .11
Valvoline Turbo 158 405 -40 .99 .13
Valvoline Synthetic 160 435 -40 <1.5 .12
[This message has been edited by gnarley (edited May 02, 2002).]

[moomba]

That's it? This info is 10 years ogo. It it from the old SH rated oils. We are now on SL and going to SM very soon.

[gnarley]

That’s all I have Moomba, do you have anything that shows any of the newest ratings? If so put it up, but that’s the best I can do at this time. Sure oils change all the time but I think we can still stick to the basics here right? Like I said before, I might learn something here to and a lot of others I bet learned also and for those who didn't know much about how the multi grades work & what the numbers mean they learned about polymers and maybe how they're oil works as compared to another. You sound very knowledgeable about oil but a lot of users aren't so share what you know if helps anyone make a better-educated decision.

[Costello]

After all that has been posted, I STILL feel comfortable with my Mobil 1 5-30, especially with the knowledge that there are no polymer additives in it. Thanks for all of your insights.

[INFINITEJJ]

Originally posted by gnarley:
What I meant by the 30 point spread is that it is still a lot for the viscosity improvers to handle! What about some of these oils like a 5w-50??? Boy they sure scare me! I just can’t see running 5w oil in anything including my 96 Impala that states it could use 5w-30 oil?
I agree also. Some companies need less viscosity improvers in an oil with the same spread than other companies. I wouldn't put a 5w-anything in my lawnmower or anything else.
I still run conventional oil Valvoline straight 40 weight, but I would break a motor in on straight 30 weight.
[This message has been edited by INFINITEJJ (edited May 02, 2002).]

[INFINITEJJ]

Here are some up dated numbers and another "TO MUCH INFORMATION" link http://www.atis.net/oil_faq.html
Brand VI Flash Pour % Ash % Zinc
20W-50
AMSOIL (new) 157 507 -44 --- ---
AMSOIL HP 169 457 -36 .5 ---
LUCAS 140 400 --- --- ---
RED LINE(new)157 503 -49 --- ---
15W-40
AMSOIL (new) 164 462 -49 --- ---
10W-30
AMSOIL (new) 162 520 -76 --- ---

[Costello]

Originally posted by INFINITEJJ:
I wouldn't put a 5w-anything in my lawnmower or anything else.]
JJ, A 500" Pro Stock engine takes right around $110,000 to build this season. They are making 2.65 - 2.67 horsepower per cubic inch. They are spinning them 9500+ RPM. Granted it's only for 1320 feet, but do you know what oil they use. It's an 0w-5! I think your lawnmower would survive a quality 5 weight synthetic oil just fine. I know my boat will. http://free.***boat.net/ubb/smile.gif

[INFINITEJJ]

Originally posted by Costello:
JJ, A 500" Pro Stock engine takes right around $110,000 to build this season. They are making 2.65 - 2.67 horsepower per cubic inch. They are spinning them 9500+ RPM. Granted it's only for 1320 feet, but do you know what oil they use. It's an 0w-5! I think your lawnmower would survive a quality 5 weight synthetic oil just fine. I know my boat will. http://free.***boat.net/ubb/smile.gif
They run it becuase of drag or resistance, they also run all aluminum motors, lightweight cranks , flywheels, every part they can shave they will. In prostock it is a game of 1000ths and every bit counts,and if I had a sponser to pay my motor bills I would run 0w-0 if I tought it gave me an edge.

[Bondo]

i run Mobil 1 15w50.....i know it's a waste of money, with oil,+ filter changes at every 25hrs.,BUT i just LOVE to throw money away when it comes to my Boat..!!!!!

[Thunderbutt]

Yes and how many do they blow up Originally posted by INFINITEJJ:
They run it becuase of drag or resistance, they also run all aluminum motors, lightweight cranks , flywheels, every part they can shave they will. In prostock it is a game of 1000ths and every bit counts,and if I had a sponser to pay my motor bills I would run 0w-0 if I tought it gave me an edge.

[Costello]

I cannot think of the last Pro Stock engine failure that I saw on the track,and I keep abreast of the happenings at every National event all year. It is pretty damn rare that both cars do not go down the track side by side in the category, and when they don't it is usually a handling problem with one of the cars. (Atlanta had the Pro Stock track from hell today) I really cannot think of someone grenading an engine in Pro Stock in ions.

[Costello]

JJ, here is the unqualified entrants at Atlanta today in Pro Stock (Many of these guys are regular heavy hitters too like Marnell and Hammonds, who just had a bad day)...
17. George Marnell Marnell M'Sports Grand Am 6.916 199.40
18. JR Carr Agri-Pack Firebird 6.918 200.05
19. Tom Martino Martino Racing Grand Am 6.918 200.05
20. Larry Morgan Mopar Parts Neon R/T 6.932 198.96
21. Bob Benza Benza Racing Grand Am 6.955 197.10
22. Charlie Greco Greco Racing Cavalier 6.964 198.41
23. Ben Watson Watson Racing Grand Am 6.969 196.36
24. Mike Thomas Grand Am 6.989 196.33
25. Eric Shelton Shelton Racing R/T 7.190 191.89
26. Mike Weinle Weinle M'Sports Cavalier 7.288 189.34
27. Mike Edwards Young Life Cavalier 7.465 139.39
28. Larry Nance U.S. Marines Cutlass 7.497 143.44
29. Tom Hammonds Winnebago/Itasca Cavalier 7.525 141.08
30. Jamie Yates Splitfire/Dynomax Grand Am 7.595 140.39
31. John Nobile Nobile Racing Cavalier 7.714 136.75
32. David Strouse Jr. Cavalier 8.046 126.06
33. Don Smith Texas Harley.com Cavalier 8.298 120.61
34. Mike Trumble Jr Dick Sherman Firebird 9.158 102.82
35. Larry Peternel LPR Camaro
Out of 18 cars, I can count 6 that have a real sponsor. The rest are out of pocket. You are correct that they are trying to lessen drag on the rotating mass, but the engines are too pricey to sacrifice them the way they do in the Nitro Classes, for the sake of running a light oil. The light oil works for them. I'm not advocating it for everyone, but it's not like running WD40 for engine oil either. The lightweight oil does a fine job when it is the oil selected for a particular application, whether that is race cars, boats, or stock automobiles.

[INFINITEJJ]

Costello,
I also love the sport of drag racing, you can find me at Pomona 8 days out of the year and sometimes at Phoenix and Sonoma. I am not tring to "flame" you on at all. I just remember when ny dad used to race NDBA in the comp hydro class we ran 60 weight. I have done alot of research and I havn't found anyone that recomends a 5w-anything in a marine application.
The last Prostock catostrophic engine falure I saw in person was Vinny Barone at the 2002 winternats on satuday. He blew the motor, oiled down the track then caught on fire and hit the wall. He was okay, But it was a lengthy clean up/beer run. It happens more than you might think. Worn, burnt or spun bearing are pretty common along with all the none oil related issues, so are complete engine changes between rounds. Martino also destroyed one at Gainesville during qualifing. W.J., Stevens, Anderson and Glidden have all lost motors this year.
As for the sponsers, it looks to me as if you are counting the likes of Jeg and Troy as those who don't have a sponser. Most of the guy's that put their own name on the side of their car are race engine buiders, parts suppliers or just stepped up in class and looking for a sponser.
I wish you nothihg but the best of luck, happy motoring.
JON

[Costello]

JJ, It looks like our little discussion cursed poor old Greg Anderson in the final today! I haven't seen one or read about one in Pro Stock for a long time. I'm not counting Coughlin's as not having a sponsor, they were not in the DNQ list posted above. The only ones I consider that do have sponsors in the list above are, Morgan, Hammonds, Carr, Edwards and Jaimie Yates. Don Smith doesn't count, Texas H-D is his dealership that has nothing to do with NHRA Pro Stock. If we counted him, there would be 7. Howabout that Allen Johnson getting the Wally today with no further backing from Aamoco? Great win for those guys. See you at the new Sears Point in August. We had better get back on topic with oils now!! http://free.***boat.net/ubb/biggrin.gif Try www.deepstage.net (http://www.deepstage.net) for your race talk fix. Great people I've been over there since day 1.

[lghtnin33]

here's why i run what i run in my boat, car and trucks. during high school, during the summer i worked for an LPgas company, we not only sold liquid petrolem,but oil well chemical and so forth... every year we got a break down folder of every oil product we sold. weight,viscosity,temp breakdown, cost per unit ect... mobil 1 was so far advanced at that time it was incredible, almost 30 points ahead of the competition. also so was the price! in 86-88 that stuff was $2400 per 55gal drum we only kept 2 drums on the dock for 1 customer that bought it. the only oil i can remember being it's equal was once, we had a special order for 1 case of some weird exxon turbo synthetic multiweight that had similar break down numbers but was $126 for 12 quarts. have always been a mobil 1 guy from early on.

[Costello]

Lghtnin, I run a 15 million gallon per year LPGas operation now. What an industry!! http://free.***boat.net/ubb/biggrin.gif