When to go to 'normal oil'

[Animal Magnatism]

I have had my new motor running on the trailer for about 10mins, and on the water for about 30 mins. I was wondering if it's too soon to change the oil from the running-in oil to the normal oil. The motors a blown BBC full roller with all good gear (Crower, Lunati etc.) currently running around 6lbs. The boat is just for hotrodding.
Also, would it be bad to go hard with the running-in oil (up to say 6k). Or should I wait.... how long should I wait.
Lastly, I plan on using either straight 50W Kendall, or Royal Purple oil. Is one of those better than the other.
Thanks.
Paul.

[DeputyDawg]

I would go ahead and drain the break-in oil out of now as well as change the filter. Kendall 50 is good oil but Royal Purple synthetic is better by far. Your motor will love you for it! As far as when you can hammer on it I would say change the oil and give it hell.

[sdpm]

I would not run a synthetic oil for awhile. Give the rings time to seat. Why so heavy of an oil? Heavy oil does not move very fast. Let it get good and warm before you climb on it and I hope you have a pump support!

[Squirtin Thunder]

I ran Valvoline Racing VR1 10W30 for a whole season.
BTW- bearings and rings showed almost no signs of use, except for one.

[steelcomp]

Now days, moly rings are about broken in by the time you slide them into the cyl's. We did 3 or 4 warm ups, and about 5 pulls on the dyno with the break in oil, then switched to Mobil1 synthetic. No problems, no oil pressure fluctuation (after we took a quart out of the pan) 18 pulls. We cut the filter after the break in pulls, and it was spotless, so we ran it. Break in oil was just cheap straight 30 wt Chevron, I think.

[MandDPerformance]

Change oil and filter and ring its neck. Don't worry about ring break in; it's already done. Youv'e already loaded the egine numerous times and put it through its heat cycles so you're ready to go. I'd recomend the Royal Purple over the Kendall. The new Kendall doesn't really impress me. I would run a thinner weight oil though. The synthetics don't lose their viscosity like conventional motor oil when they get hot which allows you to run lighter weights. My .02.

[steve d]

I would not run a synthetic oil for awhile. Give the rings time to seat. Why so heavy of an oil? Heavy oil does not move very fast. Let it get good and warm before you climb on it and I hope you have a pump support!
What do you mean pump support? I have seen these cast pumps crack in half--------GREVIOUS DAMAGE!!!.....Thanks--Steve

[DeputyDawg]

Go and do a search on pump supports in the just jets section and you can probably find a picture of one. It is a pretty simple deal that usually goes from stringer to stringer and sometimes down to the front intake bolts as well and will be attached in any number of ways to the front of the pump and or around the thrust bearing cap area to give some extra support. I think they are a must have if you are running anything much over stock power and probably wouldn't be a bad idea even on a stock boat.

[steve d]

Go and do a search on pump supports in the just jets section and you can probably find a picture of one. It is a pretty simple deal that usually goes from stringer to stringer and sometimes down to the front intake bolts as well and will be attached in any number of ways to the front of the pump and or around the thrust bearing cap area to give some extra support. I think they are a must have if you are running anything much over stock power and probably wouldn't be a bad idea even on a stock boat.
Thanks ---Steve

[Animal Magnatism]

Thanks for the replies. I'm running a peterson dry sump pump. How about the Royal Purple 41 (10w40) Bearing clearances are 2.7-3.0 mains, 2.7 rods.
Paul

[MandDPerformance]

Thanks for the replies. I'm running a peterson dry sump pump. How about the Royal Purple 41 (10w40) Bearing clearances are 2.7-3.0 mains, 2.7 rods.
Paul
Keep hammering it!!!!

[Animal Magnatism]

Keep hammering it!!!!
?????
Are you saying they're too tight?? or 'get out there and give it hell!!'
How about that weight oil for those clearances?
Thanks
Paul.

[MandDPerformance]

Go and do a search on pump supports in the just jets section and you can probably find a picture of one. It is a pretty simple deal that usually goes from stringer to stringer and sometimes down to the front intake bolts as well and will be attached in any number of ways to the front of the pump and or around the thrust bearing cap area to give some extra support. I think they are a must have if you are running anything much over stock power and probably wouldn't be a bad idea even on a stock boat.
You're obviously talking about a Jet Pump Support; which I agree is a great thing to have for any type of performance squirt. I think the pump in question is an oil pump though. "I could be wrong." The reason for an oil pump support is to keep the pump from stressing or breaking under acceleration. This rarely happens but is does. The housing tries to twist off of its "1" hold down bolt.
I'm sure anyone who's ever primed an engine with a drill motor and an adapter can attest to the force implied on the drill motor once the pump primes itself and starts pumping. Can you imagine the force implied on an oil pump and its drive components when going from say 2000 rpm to say 7000 rpm at the hit of the gas. An oil pump support helps distribute this load.

[sdpm]

Yes I was talking about an oil pump suport. Now that I see he is running a dry sump scratch that!
As far as cutting apart an oil filter, what's up with that? System one or Oberg. Look at it after every pass. C'mon, Steel, step up!!
You ran your engine on a dyno with different loads and then did some pulls. That's alot different than running it on the trailer and cruising around the lake @ 2500rpm with the engine water temp probably around 120* and the oil about the same.
I use to run the RP racing 11. now I run snyergyn 0-20. Pre heat the oil before starting cold and keep it warm between rounds. No problems.

[DeputyDawg]

Sorry guys, I saw that he was from down under and just assumed he was running a jet boat and that sdpm was suggesting that with that much power he needed to be running a jet pump support.....oooops, my bad, I will go back under my rock now.

[sdpm]

Jimmy, no need to crawl under rocks! How are we doing on the Hemi parts? Give me a call. Thanks Neil

[steelcomp]

Yes I was talking about an oil pump suport. Now that I see he is running a dry sump scratch that!
As far as cutting apart an oil filter, what's up with that? System one or Oberg. Look at it after every pass. C'mon, Steel, step up!!
You ran your engine on a dyno with different loads and then did some pulls. That's alot different than running it on the trailer and cruising around the lake @ 2500rpm with the engine water temp probably around 120* and the oil about the same.
I use to run the RP racing 11. now I run snyergyn 0-20. Pre heat the oil before starting cold and keep it warm between rounds. No problems.
System one or Oberg fine if you're talking about an engine that you think you need to look at after every run. Not me. Oil fiter cutter's a lot cheaper. Periodic checks are all that's necessary for this motor. Unless, of course, you want to buy one for me (take apart filter). I still wouldn't check it more than a couple times a season.
You ran your engine on a dyno with different loads and then did some pulls. That's alot different than running it on the trailer and cruising around the lake @ 2500rpm with the engine water temp probably around 120* and the oil about the same.
You're right. We only did a few warm up's, let it idle for a while, ran it at about 3500 with a load on it to simulate cruise, did a few pulls to check the fuel curves, and then changed oil. LIke I said, I think we only did about 5 full pulls before the oil change....but we did make full pulls on the plain 30 wt.
Animal Mag. said he had his running on the trailer for 10 min. and then on the water for 30 min. It may not have seen the loads that my motor saw, but it saw enough, and it had more run time. Point is, AFAIC, it's plenty broken in.
I'd run the Royal Purple, especially with those bearing clearances. Mains would be happier at + .003, IMO. I'm running 5-30 Mobil 1, with .0034-.0035 on the mains, 73-75 psi hot. Plenty good. Every pull started with the water at 101 deg. and endded at about 103-104. We never did do an oil temp. Just not an issue for this deal. I saw that as it warmed up, the motor definately got happier. We also found a huge fluctuation above 5500. After we took out a quart, it went away, along with the dip in power that happened at the same time. I ended up with 8 qts. in the pan. That's a Dan Olson 10 qt pan on my motor. I sure would have liked to be able to afford a dry sump.
Sounds like a nice motor, Animal. Post up some pics!! :D

[Animal Magnatism]

Ok, here ya go..
http://users.tpg.com.au/phansf/PIC_a0002.jpg
http://users.tpg.com.au/phansf/PIC_q003.jpg
http://users.tpg.com.au/phansf/PIC_w0009.jpg
http://users.tpg.com.au/phansf/PIC_w0010.jpg
BTW I've bought a pail of Royal Purple R41.
Paul

[steelcomp]

Verrrrry nice. That thing looks like a serious runner! What's the hull? Any performance numbers yet??
You guys Down Under put together some nice stuff. :D Thanks for sharing.

[DeputyDawg]

Nice looking ride Animal. Turn up the fun factor a bit and put a smaller pulley up top!! :D :D :D

[Animal Magnatism]

Thanks, The hull is an Everingham. Popular for ski racing down here. A pulley change is in the process :D . Currently running around 5-6lbs. Will be stepping up to 18lbs.
Paul