5400 RPM max [Archive] - RiverRacer.Net

moneysucker

10-11-2005, 11:41 PM

I need some ideas on what to check. I am having a problem and have been fighting it for some time. Since I had my blower stripped, And re assembled my motor for this season, I have had a popping and power loss at 5400 RPMs and my max the motor will turn is 5400 when I used to turn 7000. I rebuilt the motor this year and changed the 6AL and the coil and wires and cap and rotor. I just had the fuel system flowed at Gorr fuel systems and there were some blocked injectors (6) and I thought that was the problem but The 5400 RPM Max curse persisted last weekend at the lake. I did pull the rev limiter chip and that did not solve the problem either. I am thinking that posibly the distributer magnetic pick up may be losing it and causing spark scatter which is what it feels like. ANy possbilities on what tocheck will be appreciated. As of now I am thinking that I will order a new DIst and try that now.
Thanks
Cy

Wet Dream

10-12-2005, 03:50 AM

MikeF

10-12-2005, 04:55 AM

Try,
Check the distance from the magnetic pickup and the reluctor on the dist and make sure it is set at the manufacturers spec.
Run the boat on the trailer and check timing at 3000 rpm and make sure all the timing (checking total) you want is in by that rpm.
Check what WD says. Sounds like that might be the problem as it is the only change you had made from the last time you ran it. You always look to the last thing you did....cause that is likely the problem. :mix: :clover:
Might think of more later.

moneysucker

10-12-2005, 08:33 PM

I don't know chit, but I can tell you that you are describing something very similar to what happened to the Green Machine. Popping and sputtering. Turns out the pressure relief valve/ popoff valve on the blower/ intake was opening up.
That is a good one. I will check that when I get m=home. That may be something that I over looked.
I have a new dist on the way too. I will be changing that out too but one thing at a time so I know what the problem was. As far as setting the timing at 3000, I have it locked out so the advance wouldn't be the problem unless it came loose.
Thanks for the Ideas. Keep them coming so I have a list to check when I get home.
Cy

tbanzer

10-12-2005, 11:52 PM

Weak valve springs or ignition coil.

sdpm

10-13-2005, 05:22 AM

Driver! :wink:

steelcomp

10-13-2005, 06:04 AM

Make sure something didn't get bent and your butterflys are opening all the way.

BUSBY

10-13-2005, 03:10 PM

Driver! :wink:
LMFAO! Too Funny!

moneysucker

10-13-2005, 03:38 PM

LMFAO! Too Funny!
F-ing V-drivers! You both SUCK!!!
If my problem is not cured before Phoenix and tested on the lake, I will be the drunk wandering around the track telling everyone that my boat would kick their a$$es if it was there.

BUSBY

10-13-2005, 03:57 PM

:D :D :D

sdpm

10-13-2005, 04:14 PM

F-ing V-drivers! You both SUCK!!!
If my problem is not cured before Phoenix and tested on the lake, I will be the drunk wandering around the track telling everyone that my boat would kick their a$$es if it was there.
What do you mean? You do that anyways!! You even get your friends all juiced up and they start telling everyone the same thing!! :D
You got over a month to get it figured out. You better fix it or better not show at all! No whinning! :yuk:
You need to turn the engine around. They run better that way! Works for us!! :D

BUSBY

10-14-2005, 11:06 AM

What do you mean? You do that anyways!! You even get your friends all juiced up and they start telling everyone the same thing!! :D
You got over a month to get it figured out. You better fix it or better not show at all! No whinning! :yuk:
You need to turn the engine around. They run better that way! Works for us!! :D
:D :D :D

BUSBY

10-14-2005, 11:39 AM

Ok Cy ... on a serious note ... let's look at what you've got here ...
Since I had my blower stripped, And re assembled my motor for this season, I have had a popping and power loss at 5400 RPMs and my max the motor will turn is 5400 when I used to turn 7000.
Popping from the hat or exhaust? Ignition pop from what I'm figuring? Or flattened lobe type of pop from intake under full load? What are your compression and leak down numbers? (just for fun to make sure that you're bottom end is okay)
I rebuilt the motor this year and changed the 6AL and the coil and wires and cap and rotor.
So you've taken care of the ignition, where are you running your timing?
I just had the fuel system flowed at Gorr fuel systems and there were some blocked injectors (6) and I thought that was the problem but The 5400 RPM Max curse persisted last weekend at the lake.
And your fuel system should be okay not that the bugs are worked out ;)
I did pull the rev limiter chip and that did not solve the problem either.
Back to the ignition ... primary side ... not that ...
I am thinking that posibly the distributer magnetic pick up may be losing it and causing spark scatter which is what it feels like. good place to start ...
Lets think about the basics here though ... you need 3 things for the engine to run, fuel ... compression ... ignition ...
Fuel with mechanical injection will follow the rpm's, having your system flowed and all ... this shouldn't be your problem ...
Compression ... it doesn't cause a limited rpm all of a sudden ... it just goes away with broken parts or wear ...
Blower re-stripping ... not your problem ... you get boost or no boost ... but the pressure relief button was a good idea ... a too lean condition could cause a misfire and lack of power ... a $15 fix ...
Ignition ... now I think you're on the right track ... the most likely cause of a limited rpm ... if you've replaced all the other items ... the distributor might be your final item needed ...
Of course none of us are there, and diagnosing over the internet is impossible ... but hopefully I have at least given you a couple of things to think about ...
But as Neil said ... your biggest problem is that your engine is backwards! :D

moneysucker

10-14-2005, 02:58 PM

You mean the Distributor should be in the front like in the Rubber Duck? I am working up to that still. I have 2 distributors coming and I will be able to test next weekend. I have not done a leak down check yet but it better be good since the motor only ran at San Diego since the rebuild. It does start a lot better since the fuel system flowing though. We will see.

BUSBY

10-14-2005, 03:14 PM

Just tryin' to help diagnose from afar ... fuel and compression are probably fine ... I'd stick with the ignition ...
good luck ...
now ... back to crap talkin' ! :D
You should have stuck with the Hydro project ... probably wouldn't have this problem! :D

moneysucker

10-14-2005, 04:34 PM

You are right Brian. I would never get it done so I would never know that I had a problem. And IF I did get it done, the motor runs fine on the trailer. It would be perfect in a v drive. Trailer queens. LOL

BUSBY

10-14-2005, 08:16 PM

GofastRacer

10-14-2005, 08:36 PM

Trailer queens, yeah right!.. :rolleyes:

moneysucker

10-14-2005, 09:50 PM

OUCH! Okay ... you got me there!
Just wanted to turn it around a little. I was getting tag teamed. Of course, There are a few people that would come on and say that I spend more time waxing than running too. It is hard to look this good. :yuk: Thanks for all the input from everyone even if I had to take a few kicks to the groin to get it. I do appreciate other peoples ideas since it is often just something that I am used to looking at and look right through a problem. :confused:

BUSBY

10-15-2005, 08:05 AM

it is often just something that I am used to looking at and look right through a problem.
The old K.I.S.S. theory ... "Keep it simple stupid" ...
Sometimes it's staring you in the face ... and someone else walks up and says "hey, here it is ........ " and you feel stupid for not seeing it ... has happened to us all a few times ...
You'll find it ... go back to the basics .. and work your way up ... I know it's a pian in the ass ... but it'll save you time in the long run ...
Good luck ... I'm off to go sit in my boat on the trailer ... :wink:

moneysucker

10-15-2005, 08:23 AM

BUSBY

10-15-2005, 08:54 AM

I have a boat seat in my truck in Sac. so I can sit in that parked by the Sacramento river and make boat noises. I am thinking about watching the video of the extreme sprint roll bar cam to make it more realistic.
lemme see here ... :idea:
Cy sitting there in a boat seat in the back of his truck with 1/2 a 12 pack gone, Lifeline on, helmet on ... looking at the Sac river going "rump, rump,rump ...RRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRROOOOOOOOWWWWWWWWW!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!" as the loacal Sherriff pulls up ...
Too fockin' funny ... I can see it!

Kurtis500

10-15-2005, 09:33 AM

I have had this same problem. First, take your nozzels off and see if they are clogged again. This happened to me in July with my other boat in NM at a race. The injectors were clogged, we cleaned them out, and at half track on the next pass they clogged right up again. Enderle injectors are different than my Hilborns in that they dont have a screen inside the nozzels. I can leave my Hilborn nozzles in, undo the allen head bolt and blow the injectors out with the lines still attached. The popping noise is likely the motor going lean. Of course you dont want to keep that up. I have also experienced the need to do a pill change after re-stripping the blower since it is more effecient than before. So have many others. You can also check the barrel inside the barrel valve and make sure its lined up properly when you accelerate. Many times these are not put back together the way it was disassembled and you end up rolling the barrel too far around and start to cut off fuel through the block at the full throttle position. Also, with an electronic ingintion and a blown injected set-up, I sure hope its gas your running, if its alcohol the ignition is probably too weak. I been there and done that too. :D

DeputyDawg

10-15-2005, 11:26 AM

Make sure your gas tank vent line is big enough. Have you moved your gas tank around any? If so did you mount it back in the same spot it was before for a good gravity feed? What pump are you running, and do you run a high speed lean out?

BUSBY

10-15-2005, 11:45 AM

Iffin' I'm not mistaken ... (which I'm pretty sure I'm not) ... Cy just took his complete fuel system (from his line coming out of his tank, pump, return lines, everything bascially) to Gorr and had them flowed ... making sure that this was not the problem ... if a line was too small or bad, they would have told him to replace it ... I'm 99.999% sure that Gorr set the system up properly ...
But as I said earlier ... check everything ... even what you think is good ...
Also ... I think he had this problem before and after paying to have the fuel system flowed ... am I on the right track here Cy ???
http://www2.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/954Money_ucker_009.jpg

DeputyDawg

10-15-2005, 12:16 PM

Originally posted by BUSBY
I'm 99.999% sure that Gorr set the system up properly ...
Whoa Nelly!! I didn't mean to imply that Gorr doesn't know what he's doing or that he may have done something wrong. What I said wasn't meant as a slam on Gorr or any of y'all's buddies who might work there, I know they are very good at what they do. I was just kicking around some ideas trying to be helpful. Have a nice day and Good luck to you moneysucker. Good looking boat by the way!

BUSBY

10-15-2005, 01:00 PM

Oh ... no, it's all good ... I was just saying that it's probably not that, I also went on to say he should check out everything ... even if he thinks it's good, including the fuel system ...
Cy'll figure it out ... he's just using us as a backboard to bounce ideas off of before he gets back into the boat seat in the back of his truck again ... :D

moneysucker

10-15-2005, 03:34 PM

Sorry for not getting back on earlier, I almost got a duce when the cops saw the motor shut down(I ran out of breath while making motor noises) I hooked (The seat was not bolted down and I slid on the plastic bed liner) and was thrown out. It was a close call.
As far as my problem, Since the boat has been unable to go over 5400 RPMs I have changed the Battery, MSD Box, Coil, Wires, Cap and rotor, and have re wired the boat. I have also traded MSD Chips in both boxes, as well as removed chips in both boxes and run without . I lost a lifter this year and it took out my bearings and crank so I rebuilt the motor and San Diego was the first time running since then. So the valves have been checked and the lifters adjusted. I have also changed the Dead man switch when I re wired the boat. so as far as ignition was concerned, the only thing left to change is my 5 year old MSD Pro billet dist. If that doesn't do it I will steal the box from rubber ducky and try it. Oh yeah, I thought (and had been told that) it could be voltage drop since I never ran an alternator and have since installed one so That isn't the problem either. I hope to God it is the Dist. Since I have 2 dual pick up ones coming.
Cy

steelcomp

10-15-2005, 08:51 PM

sdpm

10-15-2005, 10:22 PM

Too many blue zip ties!

BUSBY

10-15-2005, 11:06 PM

Too many blue zip ties!
Neil ... you are so on the same page as me ... LMFAO!!!
Sorry Cy ... that was too fockin' funny!!!
:D :D :D
I'm laughing so hard ... I'm almost crying ... wait, I'm feeling a tear coming on!
Sorry ... the tear was because Cy gave up on the v-drive project ... and stuck with the jet ...

Kurtis500

10-16-2005, 08:05 AM

Cy, I have had this exact problem before. If your motor was correctly assembled, it sounds very much like fuel distribution. If you had 6 clogged nozzels, that is a big indicator it will happen again. Something clogged your nozzels before and will do it again. I pour all my fuel through a very fine paint strainer into the tank. You should pull the nozzels out of the hat and try to blow back through them. Popping is one of the indicators of a lean set-up. It could be other things, but with the power loss and assuming the parts are all good in the motor I'm going to strongly guess its going lean. You stand a good chance of burning down some pistons ASAP if it is the problem and not fixed. Especially if you are running gas.
BTW, are you gas or alcohol? The only thing that would change my mind about the problem is if you are running alcohol. If you are the electronic ignition has to go and a mag should take its place.

moneysucker

10-16-2005, 07:50 PM

Let us go over basics.
1. did we make sure the fuel system is tight? (no missing plugs?)
2. did we install the fuel valves with the lil plunger towards the injection unit?
3. did we remember to install all of the sparkplugs?
4. did we put 1 piston in each of the round holes before we put the heads back on?
Give me some time an I'll come up with more helpful suggestions from the peanut gallery. lol But in the meantime, iffin you figger out the rpm problem let me know as I'm having the same issue. The only thing I have not replaced is the distributor.(msd)
Rio
ps. bet you can't guess who I've been talkin to? lol
Let me guess, My brother at Toms?

moneysucker

10-16-2005, 08:49 PM

I will let you know. I am pretty sure it is the dist. I hope so anyways. I am sending mine in to MSD once I get it figured out. Ya, I know there are a few stories about me that go around and the way I see it, I have gone through my fair share of problems usually caused by trying to save a buck. I know that sometimes it is necessary but you will pay more in the long run. The good thing is that I am learning and hopefully my mistakes can save others from making them.
Jim who bought Bob Frys old black and red eliminator was at the lake with me on Sunday and said he had a 5400 or close problem that was solved by pulling the rev limiter chip out of the box.
This has been a problem in my boat for 2 seasons. The only thing I have not done is change the dist. I am going to call MSD this week too and see what they think may be the problem. That and get the info for sending my spare box in for a check up.
Cy

BUSBY

10-16-2005, 10:32 PM

Okay Cy ... 3rd or 4th time asked (I think) ... Alcohol or Gas???
It'll make a difference on our advice (other than giving up on the jet and moving to a v-drive :) )

moneysucker

10-16-2005, 10:41 PM

Gas. I have not made the next step yet.

moneysucker

10-17-2005, 11:27 AM

Cy, have been having the exact same problems for a couple of years! I DID send my box to MSD and it came back with a clean bill of health. Gave it away and bought a new one and same fr*ckin problem. Pulled chips, no change. Rewired entire boat, no change. Went from 2 Doms to Enderle and all new fuel system. (2 Aeromotives feeding tank into 80a) no change. 12/71 at 20 lbs of boost should have no problem pulling 7000 rpm>>> to whatever and it won't do it. Roller cam/740 lift and MSD distributor are only parts I haven't changed. This motor has been down 4 times and the problem persists.
I get so burned out that it gets parked and I don't touch it for a while (hunting season) and then get back to it 6 months later. I oughta sell it and go buy another plane, less hassle. Wanna buy it?
When I get the energy in a month or so I'll replace the cam with one of Tommy's 'special grinds' and the dist and see whether that helps or take it on a "poker run" to Catalina with the big ballers-so I have a ride back! If ya get my meaning.
Rio
That is what I did too and the thing is, with the same set up same parts mine did run 7000 rpms before I pulled the motor down when I developed a knock. I know mine is not the cam since it is the same grind cam I ran before and the problem deveoped before changing except having the blower stripped and re polished. The day it ran the best, I had a front seal leak which I chased for a while and pulled the whole boat apart to have everything re polished after having oil all over. Since then I have had this problem.

steelcomp

10-17-2005, 11:40 AM

When I was at Dart, we had a tractor pull motor on the dyno. BIG motor, Big Chiefs, sheet metal intake, 14:1, the whole ball o' wax. Motor had made 1300+ before. Well, Maskin is pullin this thing on the dyno, and it's not making 900. Wouldn't pull any RPM, either. Popped a few times, and sounded lazy. I said, "cam's off a tooth". "Naw, it couldn't be", he said, and continued to pull and pull. Finally the motor had enough and came apart. So we tore it down.
Cam was off a tooth.
Just FYI.

moneysucker

10-17-2005, 01:01 PM

Thanks, I will have it checked out but I had this problem before the rebuild too.

steelcomp

10-17-2005, 01:22 PM

Thanks, I will have it checked out but I had this problem before the rebuild too.
Hmmmm. :idea:
Clevis bearing limiter rod set at the wrong temperature? :)

SmokinLowriderSS

10-17-2005, 04:20 PM

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm I've seen a lot of clevis bearing limiter rods set at the wrong temperature (darned amatures set them at the temp they expect to see in mid-summer instead of the temp they are AT) but never say one cause a 1600 RPM fall-off in performance. Still, is THEORHETICALLY possible so check closely.
Hey, it IS the right material isn't it? For your HP level, Unobstrontanium is the ONLY thing to use. Anything else will cause missalignment of the Jeeter Extension Shaft Bushings in the blower which will cause all kinds of havock under boost pressure strain.
Hope the fix is soon found and inexpensive. :smile:

steelcomp

10-17-2005, 05:36 PM

ROTFLMFAO!!! (For those of you in Rio Linda, that stands for Rollin On The Floor Laughin My Fockin Ass Off!!!) :D :D

steelcomp

10-17-2005, 05:38 PM

Steelcomp, I'm thinkin you might be on to sumptin in my case. Since I'm gonna have to pull the whole thing down anyway I'll check it out but will probably change cams just for the "H" of it. I plan to throw in a new dist for 1 last try before I pull it down so we'll find out for sure what main malfuction is.
Thanks
Rio
Rio, if you do decide to change cams, talk to Chris Straub. (CStraub69)

moneysucker

10-24-2005, 04:07 PM

Well, guess what? I just got back from the lake and the problem is still there. I changed the dist and the wires between the box and the dist. I Checked valve springs and none are broken. Compression check was very close on all cyl. I have not changed the wires yet and am going to order them this week. This sucks. I am getting fed up with this and only having 2 days per week to work on it sucks too along with the weather we had this weekend here in SD. AND...To top it all off, the rangers came up just before I was going back to the ramp anyways and asked me to leave anyways because it was too loud and the houses on the hill called and complained. The Rangers are cool and it was partially my fault. I timed it on the trailer in the water on the ramp so a lot of the noise was concentrated at that end of the lake where we try tp get away from fastsince the rangers office is there. Anyways, Any ideas would be great. The plugs were rich too. bad air today. so I don't see it being a lean pop. Fryjet says it sounds like ignition too. I am thinking I will buy a new box too just to be on the safe side and then send the other 2 in to be checked. How long does MSD take to check them out? Then I will be one coil short of 3 complete sets.

steelcomp

10-24-2005, 04:22 PM

Rotors in the blower backwards?? Don't laugh.

BUSBY

10-25-2005, 01:27 PM

Ok Cy ... lets look back here ...
Since I had my blower stripped, And re assembled my motor for this season, I have had a popping and power loss at 5400 RPMs and my max the motor will turn is 5400 when I used to turn 7000.
Do you have access to another blower?
Rotors in the blower backwards?? Don't laugh.
Scott might be onto somthing here ... have seen rotors installed incorrectly ... causes all kinds of tune up issues.
I would go back to the time that your problem started, it sounds like it might have started with the blower service or whatever happened when you did this.
Worse case scenario, you take out the engine bring it to my house and we go through it, top to bottom ... I've got the time ... let me know.
Brian

Norseman

10-25-2005, 04:53 PM

Rotors in the blower backwards?? Don't laugh.
Or they maybe out of timing with each other!

steelcomp

10-25-2005, 07:22 PM

I've seen them put in backwards (in a top fuel deal) where the helix is going the wrong way. No boost. It's been years since I've had a "regular" blower apart, and don't remember if you can do this to one of them, but Noresman's right, too. They could be out of phase.
Ya' got something going on there. I don't think it's fuel or ignition.

blowngas

10-26-2005, 07:26 AM

Since I had my blower stripped, And re assembled
pretty sure that might be your problem, since you have ruled out fuel and ignition----if the rotors have been put in backward, the motor will start, idle, but won't make any power----but you can get yours to run to 5400!!!-----I saw this problem in a hydro, and it wouldn't rev that high but sounded great on the trailer----have someone recheck the blower

moneysucker

10-26-2005, 08:41 AM

My boost guage was reading 5lbs last week when I took it out. I had Littlefield do the blower too, it is a roots type blower, small 6-71 GM style case BDS. Skee is supposed to come down and make a trip to the lake to try to diagnose the problem and hopefully solve it. If the rotors were out of time wouldn't they be hitting?

moneysucker

10-27-2005, 07:15 AM

OK, I am looking into some other options. There is a way to test valve springs without taking the heads off right? Though I have a feeleing that I do not want to know.
Cy

BUSBY

10-27-2005, 10:16 AM

There is a way to test valve springs without taking the heads off right?
Yes there is:
http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=partdetail.asp&autofilter=1&part=MOR%2D62391&N=4294925139+4294860659&autoview=sku
I have had a popping and power loss at 5400 RPMs and my max the motor will turn is 5400 when I used to turn 7000. I rebuilt the motor this year and changed the 6AL and the coil and wires and cap and rotor.
You could be floating your valves ... but you didn't change your heads or cam right? same stuff? when was the last time you had them gone through? do you know what your seat pressure is supposed to be? if you restripped your blower, and your springs were weak and you are now supplying more boost ... this could be your problem, Phoenix is geting closer ...
If your intake is floating, you'll get a bigger pop than if it's your exhaust ...

moneysucker

10-27-2005, 06:57 PM

I don't know but hopefully I can get it rectified or M$ will not go to AZ. I will help Team Rubber Duck If mine doesn't go. We will see this weekend.

steelcomp

10-27-2005, 07:20 PM

Valve springs don't go bad "suddenly". You'll get a gradual loss of power usually, but not what you're experiencing, at least not as far as I know. I know that if you're losing int. seat pressure, you can keep the valve off the seat with the boost, but that happens over time. If you have a broken spring, I think you'd be getting a serious pop, not just an occasional one. The Moroso pull style spring testers work fine for what you want to check. Not a bad call, though, if you haven't checked them lately. Didn't you say you just went through this motor???

BUSBY

10-27-2005, 08:59 PM

Yeah but if he didn't go through the heads ... and all of a sudden has a good blower where he didn't before ... he could find out that his heads weren't set up or as tight as he thought, right?
Maybe he wasn't getting a real boost charge until they re-stripped the blower. Now he's finding that his seat pressure sucks. Thoughts???

moneysucker

10-27-2005, 09:17 PM

Now, there is a little more to it. Boat was running fine 7-11-04. The day I ran 100, my front seal was leaking and flung oil all over everything. Had the blower stripped sent it out to be re polished, in the mean time I pulled the motor out of the boat and re polished everything by the time I reassembled the boat it had been a a couple months I wasn't in a hurry to get to the water because my brother was still waiting on his new motor to get out of the shop. I never loosened the rockers. I took it out in oct or so to the lake and my battery shorted and died, 1 season without an alternator and a mini battery. Grabbed a spare battery and went to the river. The second battery died on the river on the first day and was not running right but I thought it was a voltage problem. Over the winter I replaced the MSD box as well as the battery with a Rock Racing Battery just to make sure I wouldn't have a problem. Sometime during the winter I took it out to see if it was cured and it wasn't and still would not go above 5400 RPM. When I went out for the first trip of the season this year, testing at the lake since I couldn't get ready for CBBB. I lost a lifter which took out the crank. Repaired the bottom end added a new Eagle crank. Heads were not touched just reinstalled. Over the winter I din not loosen my rockers and that may be the culperate now I am thinking. Though it really feels like it is ignition. I wish it was just an injection problem. The bright side is that everything is getting a tune up. I know I am going to get kicked in the junk for not writing the whole discertation.
Cy

BUSBY

10-27-2005, 09:27 PM

Okay Cy ... I feel like I'm talking to my son ... why didn't this come out earlier? Why couldn't you just give us the REAL story upfront???
J/K ... it's all good ...
You need to take your heads off and have them looked at if you don't know how to set them up. You should always back the rockers off ... but you probably know that now.
First things first ... find out where your seat pressure is NOW .. then we can move on. If you are throwing good boost at weak springs ... that boost will overcome your spring pressure and guess what ... POP! It shuts!
Let us know what you find out.
Brian ...
P.S. ... iffin you need a good head shop local, let me know ... I'll hook you up.

moneysucker

10-27-2005, 10:04 PM

steelcomp

10-28-2005, 05:53 AM

The good news is that I found out there is one more week than I thought before phoenix. I am thinking I will pull them bastards off and take them in. They need a once over anyways. Thanks. I just didn't think that the heads could possibly be the problem. OOPS.
Heeeere's yer sign!! LOL.
Brian, you're exactly right. I was under the impression everything was gone through when he lost the lifter. Fresh blower on weak springs= doo doo.
This is also why I preach buying GOOD springs. Isky Gold Stripes. None better.
I really hope this is where it's at for ya Cy. :D

moneysucker

10-28-2005, 06:58 AM

These are the best Iskys You can get from what Total Performance told me and I was charged for them. The gold coating has been flaking off since I had them installed though.

182011

10-28-2005, 03:53 PM

Heeeere's yer sign!! LOL.
Brian, you're exactly right. I was under the impression everything was gone through when he lost the lifter. Fresh blower on weak springs= doo doo.
This is also why I preach buying GOOD springs. Isky Gold Stripes. None better.
I really hope this is where it's at for ya Cy. :D
What about PSI the company who makes the gold stripe for isky.They offer alot more springs that might give your builder a broader selection to chose from.

÷×§má®Ã×÷

10-28-2005, 05:41 PM

hmmmm springs........ :rollside: :rollside: from what i know and have been told Cy just change em even my nitro guy thinks so :idea:

moneysucker

10-29-2005, 09:55 PM

Good news and bad news. Springs tested fine. Thanks Nu Tech for your help testing these and me not having to take my heads off. That is the good news. Bad news is that I still have no glaring problem that may solve my issues. I did buy new wires and coil and a box fresh from MSD borrowed from Helter Skelter and I am going to eliminate all wiring between any of these parts so there is no chance of interference. We will see this weekend.
Cy

moneysucker

10-31-2005, 12:53 PM

New box, plug wires, Box hard wired, no ign. switch. New coil. new cap and rotor. This should just about eliminate any ign issues. Let you all know in a few hours.
Cy
:devil:
:(
:messedup:
:smile:
:sqeyes:
:D
Just did that to irritate everyone.

BUSBY

10-31-2005, 06:53 PM

Well?????

moneysucker

10-31-2005, 07:27 PM

Not fixed. Boat is not going to the finals. I will plug away at it over the winter.

MikeF

10-31-2005, 07:44 PM

I looked for a thread that was posted awhile ago about the cam moving forward in the engine when it is being reved up.... and the timing would change. I could not find the thread. :confused:
Does your cam have anyway of moving forward? Are you using a cam button, mech fuel pump for the fuel injection or water pump to keep it in position?

moneysucker

10-31-2005, 10:01 PM

Mech Fuel pump. It could be possible. But I am sick of chasing BS so I will go as a spectator instead and actually have fun. I will race when my boat is running good before I leave for the track. I don't want to fight it all weekend and lose too. Losing and mot working on it is OK. I will continue to D*ck with it when I am home but I cna't let it consume my life year round.

Kurtis500

11-08-2005, 08:18 AM

Fuel delivery..
Check the cylinders with a compression or leakdown to make sure nothing is hurt. Make sure all the gaskets are intact for the blower and injector. Call Gorr and make sure the right barrel is in the metering block for your blown gas application, there are different ones for gas and alcohol and blown/unblown.
You have had clogged injectors already. Take off the distribution block from the hat with the lines and nozzles attached and put it in a big pan or something to catch the fuel, you may have to use a hose if you have a solid line from the barrel valve to the distribution block . Pull the pump off the extension and spin it around with a 1/2inch drill pumping fuel out the nozzles. You cant judge flow, but you will see a clogged injector.

moneysucker

11-10-2005, 11:38 PM

I was there when Ralph Flowed the injection and we cleared all the injectors. It was set up for my application too because Like I said, I was there the whole time. I will be talking to Ralph next week at the races about it too. My compression is fine, I had the same problem before and after rebuilding it. I am going to double check the shims on the pump to make sure the cam is staying put as well as changing all my fuel lines. That is my next deal after the pheonix races. And thanksgiving.

Nucking futs

11-11-2005, 08:49 PM

C'mon Cy. You need a BIGGER blower to push the gremlins out !!! :cool:
And then use Alcohol to wipe the wound. :crossx:

DansBlown73Nordic

11-12-2005, 02:08 AM

I went crazy trying to find a problem with my motor breaking up at 5,000 rpm,s....Drove me NUTS!!!!! :hammerhea
In the end after months of hearing that motor sounds kinda funny..... :220v: :skull: It was a loose ground wire. :wink:
Rexone was the guy who told to check grounds....... :crossx:

Nucking futs

11-12-2005, 12:01 PM

I am POSITVE Cy has checked all that and confermed it on his 2 dollar radio shack volt meter !!!! :eek:

BUSBY

11-12-2005, 12:11 PM

I will be talking to Ralph next week at the races about it too.
Are they going (Ralph & Spike)?

moneysucker

11-13-2005, 12:55 AM

Are they going (Ralph & Spike)?
Ralph said he was when I was there.
Futs, it is a $5 voltmeter and also a 99 cent store test light. I actually pulled off my fround wire and moved it to another location and even scraped the paint off the block and it didn't change. In fact, the boat was re wired completely after the problem started and the problem persisted. I wish it was a loose ground as pissed off that I didn't find it earlier and spent a fortune chasing it. I would be happy that I solved the problem.
Cy