New motor time

['78 gt boat]

I am finally going to pull the trigger and start on the new motor next week. It will be a 460 ford for my 19' spectra jet. I had just a couple of questions to throw out there.
1. Do you really have to built the motor to "marine" specs or can you get away with a crate motor?
2. With a $5k budget what can I expect to get?
The motor that is in the boat right now is a 460 that I broke. It is basically an truck motor. I want to get decent horsepower out of this thing. I don't need a drag boat, just something pretty quick. Any info will be helpfull and appreciated. :chi: :D

[Squeezing Spectra]

I have this motor for sale turn key it is almost new.
http://www2.***boat.com/forums/showthread.php?t=95286

[RiverRacer]

[QUOTE='78 gt boat]I am finally going to pull the trigger and start on the new motor next week. It will be a 460 ford for my 19' spectra jet. I had just a couple of questions to throw out there.
1. Do you really have to built the motor to "marine" specs or can you get away with a crate motor?
2. With a $5k budget what can I expect to get?
Anytyhing used for Marine Jet Boat power should have more clearance than a typical plastigauged rebuilt engine will have. It should also have a higher capacity Oil Pan with a rear p/u. These are reliability items and should be considered the minimum you can get away with. As far as $5000.00 for your project goes, if you have a friend in the business, or get the "long deal" somewhere, you should wind up with a Balanced and Clearanced engine with ported Iron Heads and big valves, stock type Pistons and a little higher compression, performance Cam and 4V carburetion. Depending on what they use for the rest, you should have 450 to 550 reliable hp. RR

[Aluminum Squirt]

Not sure how the Ford crate motors are, but the Chevy small block crate motors need nothing, we run the ZZ4 at WOT and get good results and reliability, all the while cavitating the pump. Some boat parts are needed, especially if your motor is enclosed but talk to some Ford smart people before you drop your coin on any uneccessary parts. I agree with RR, I think 450-550HP is a reasonable expectation, especially if you shop around and spend smart-Aluminum Squirt

[Ralph Brunt]

go over to the gear heads section and check out the 502 oil thread we both got our stuff from brian at ad performance all scat stuff from china LOL any way i think you would do well to post your ????? over there as well my .02 ralph

['78 gt boat]

How much for the motor and what does "almost new" mean? How many hours are on it and what does it have. I am a little weary about "almost new" motors. Not to say anything is wrong with this one but when I bought my boat that is what I was told about the motor in it and on the first run it went kaboom. (Probably my fault but who knows). Let me know on the price. :rollside: :rollside:

['78 gt boat]

Glen over a Pleasure boat specialties here in the bay says around $6-$7k but then again that is with labor at $90/HR. I will look around and maybe I can find a great deal somewhere. I will also check some other threads on the board for other opinions. Thanks for everyones advice :D :D

[Mighty Thor]

Here is where I am at so far.
460 bored 30 over, crank standard/standard polished, rods resized and pins floated. $220.
KB flat top pistons $250
Moly ring set $80
Rod bearing set $65
New flexplate $40
Balancing rotating assembly $150
Lower end should be done in the $1500 to $1700 range.

['78 gt boat]

So it sounds like I could get a pretty decent set up for my $

[sleekvino]

Here is where I am at so far.
460 bored 30 over, crank standard/standard polished, rods resized and pins floated. $220.
KB flat top pistons $250
Moly ring set $80
Rod bearing set $65
New flexplate $40
Balancing rotating assembly $150
Lower end should be done in the $1500 to $1700 range.
those kb pistons are they forged,dont buy the hyperutectic pistons

[sdba069]

I just did a 460 rebuild for "Greaser", who hangs out on the boards. Turnkey, less than $5000. That includes a new Canton pan and pickup, new Speed Pro LW forged pistons, resize rods, balance, rebuilt heads with all new Comp Cam parts, with a 280 comp cam and kit, Comp billet roller rockers, Comp screw in studs and guide plates, and Comp hardened pushrods. Also included was the machine work to mill the pads down on the heads to accept the guide plates. Also included was a EPW premium rebuild kit including Clevite bearings, Speed Pro moly rings, Fel Pro gaskets, and Comp timing set. That included labor. He is very happy. And I did make money and he is very happy. Not trying to sell the guy a rebuild job, just giving him something to think about.

[sdba069]

And here it is.............
http://www2.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/231210005.jpg

['78 gt boat]

I still don't know what I did to the other one. I have an appointment this coming week with PBS in San Jose to tear down and tell me what I messed up. From there I will know if the block is salvageable or not. I don't know if the heads are ok either. All of my tools are in AZ where my house is so I have to pay someone to take it apart for me. Once I know how good or bad it is I will continue from there.

[LakesOnly]

And here it is.............
http://www2.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/231210005.jpgThat's Greaser's motor? I believe those are the D0VE heads I sold him. Here are those very heads getting surfaced:
http://www2.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/350Headwork_4.jpg
LO

[LakesOnly]

I still don't know what I did to the other one. I have an appointment this coming week with PBS in San Jose to tear down and tell me what I messed up. From there I will know if the block is salvageable or not. I don't know if the heads are ok either. All of my tools are in AZ where my house is so I have to pay someone to take it apart for me. Once I know how good or bad it is I will continue from there.
GT,
Of you want us to rebuild your engine, you might as well have us tear it down. But then again, if you want to let PBS do the teardown that's perfectly fine. Get a quote for the teardown cost prior to turning over the engine to anyone.
Anyway, I suspect we can beat most anyone's rebuild price no-o-o-o-o problem, and certainly offer a great rebuild for the money. Besides, we're not just another shop; we specialize in 429/460's. :D
LO

[sdba069]

As far as the heads, we replaced all 8 exhaust guides, 1 intake guide, 1 seat, all 8 exhaust valves, and 1 intake valve. Don't know or care who was at fault, just the way it was. Aside from that, we converted them over for screw-in studs and guide plates, with roller rockers. Don't remember if they needed surfaced or not. Just curious, why do you guys grind off the suffix letter of the casting number?

[steelcomp]

As far as the heads, we replaced all 8 exhaust guides, 1 intake guide, 1 seat, all 8 exhaust valves, and 1 intake valve. Don't know or care who was at fault, just the way it was. Aside from that, we converted them over for screw-in studs and guide plates, with roller rockers. Don't remember if they needed surfaced or not. Just curious, why do you guys grind off the suffix letter of the casting number?
Other than that they were fine!!! :notam:
Grinding off part of the casting number is COOL!

[LakesOnly]

As far as the heads, we replaced all 8 exhaust guides, 1 intake guide, 1 seat, all 8 exhaust valves, and 1 intake valve. Don't know or care who was at fault, just the way it was. Aside from that, we converted them over for screw-in studs and guide plates, with roller rockers. Don't remember if they needed surfaced or not. Just curious, why do you guys grind off the suffix letter of the casting number?
That pair of heads was sold as freshened stock production rebuilders at a reduced price and not prepped, ported performance heads. Just D0VE castings with stock oem valves, oem springs, etc. At the time, Polasek was building a very mild, near stock motor for his boat and simply wanted the higher compression castings.
As for the suffix being ground off, one is a D0VE-A head and the other is a D0VE-C head. I considered that someone looking over a motor with this pair of heads may not be aware that this is a non-issue (hell, you can run a C8VE & D0VE head on the same engine), and since the suffix means little in the grand scheme of things, I decided to take the A & C out so as to save anyone from having to answer the same question over and over again to those that inquired. Prior to the sale, Polasek was advised of this specifically and was fine with it.
Frustrating thing over here is....I just came across the other D0VE-A & D0VE-C heads (which I thought were gone forever).
LO

[sdba069]

I wasn't accusing you of anything, just curious why they were ground off. I knew without looking at casting #'s what the heads were and they were matching. We put the appropriate springs, retainers, and locks on them for the camshaft that we installed, which was a 280 Comp. I did check the old springs and they only had 85# on the seat. We changed the guides because they were worn out, and the valves, because they needed ground and were too thin to grind again. We changed the one seat because it was too far gone. Looked like it had been changed before and maybe set too deep.