View Full Version : jet pump intake removal
holorinhal
10-31-2005, 11:09 AM
Does Any one know how or what is the best way to remove the pump mount/intake ,that is mounted to the bottom of the hull.
My bilge seems to have a gellcoated insert that i need to remove to replace the shorty stringers.I removed the bolts that sandwich the top and bottom pieces together,but it wo'nt bubge or seperate.should I even remove this part at all. http://www2.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/2774tahiti_jet_022.jpg
FASTRAT
10-31-2005, 11:43 AM
Does Any one know how or what is the best way to remove the pump mount/intake ,that is mounted to the bottom of the hull.
My bilge seems to have a gellcoated insert that i need to remove to replace the shorty stringers.I removed the bolts that sandwich the top and bottom pieces together,but it wo'nt bubge or seperate.should I even remove this part at all. http://www2.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/2774tahiti_jet_022.jpg
from the pic u show...i personally dont think u need to remove the pump mount/intake & why do u want to re-place the short stringers?...i see nothing wrong with them...the only damage i see is the rear of the transom!...looks like some fiberglass work will fix that
fastrat
That part doesnt just unbolt, its glued into the boat with epoxy and the screws you mentioned. Its a big job to R & R the intake because they just dont fall out and you need to re-install it correctly .. If you still want to pull it we can give you a few pointers.
holorinhal
10-31-2005, 01:48 PM
The stringers are deffinatley gone.You can't see them due to the glass overlaping them on the inside of the pan,but just on the other side of that the wood is exposed,and is soft and rotted.
I am going to have to replace the stringers as well as the transome,but if You all dont think I need to or shouldn't remove the intake/mount I would rather not.
It has short stingers in the engine bay and small light weight stringers the rest of the way through the boat,under the floor,with some styrofoam blocks and wood frame pieces.I was thinking of running the fullsize stringers from transome to bow,if it would'nt add too much weight.
Dont pull the intake adapter unless you absolutly have to or if it leaks water.
Good luck on the stringer replacement.
steelcomp
10-31-2005, 02:02 PM
I'm with Chris. Work around it. Are you sure this boat is worth the work you're undertaking?? It sounds like you're opening a big can o worms. I often wonder why, with all the inexpensive jets available, some choose to put the $$ and time into certain projects. Not to say yours isn't worth it...no way to tell from pics, but just something to consider. Good luck.
Red Horse
10-31-2005, 02:38 PM
Might want to look for another project that needs less "major" work. I think it will save you lots of frustration and maybe get you on the water about 2 years sooner :eek:
tahitijet
10-31-2005, 03:46 PM
When i started my project it was much further gone then the pictuers you posted.. I replaced my short stringers with full lenght and replaced the transom. I left my intake in when i did this but pulled it later in the build to correct the bottom and set back the pump.
Really i didn't think the job was that involved. It didn't take all that much time in relation to the whole project and only cost a few hundred dollars.
tahitian dragon
10-31-2005, 04:37 PM
intake can be tricky. hot boat has a article in the march 04 issue page 120 check it out!!!!!!!!!!! if u do pull the intake get the intake machined 4 a shoe &ride plate!!!!!!!!!!! check 6 ft (at least) forward from the tramson ,see if it is straight!!!!!!!!!! hooks &rockers kill a boat performance.blue print the hull if need,it will be worth it. Icut my intake out from the bottom and the top with a muffler cut off wheel through the epoxy only then with a little effort wa la out!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
tahitian dragon
10-31-2005, 04:43 PM
what yr and style is your tahiti???????????? mine is a 73 19 ft cl side winder,s are splashs of them. let me NO????????????later
holorinhal
10-31-2005, 06:24 PM
Well I have been rebuilding boats all my life,mostly fishing boats and runnabouts,so I have the experiance to do the work,and it is a unique looking hull and I have yet to see another one like it.
I gues I'll take you'r advise and work around the intake.
http://www2.***boat.com/image_center/data/506/2774tahiti_jet_005.jpg
holorinhal
10-31-2005, 06:29 PM
Here are a couple more pics
http://www2.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/2774tahiti_jet_006.jpg
Jake W2
10-31-2005, 06:39 PM
It would be a cleaner job it you take out the intake.Then you have the option to set it back if you want.
You need to replace the whole transom wood and buy doing this you can put a solid pice in and recut the hole any size and shape you want.
I replaced full length stringers,transom,gunwhale,floor and helm wood in a 77 bubbledeck Tahiti.When people first saw it they said why bother but after it was done they were like its cool to see and old hull saved.
Good luck,just make sure you really like the old hull.
Jake
tahitijet
10-31-2005, 09:13 PM
It would be a cleaner job it you take out the intake.Then you have the option to set it back if you want.
You need to replace the whole transom wood and buy doing this you can put a solid pice in and recut the hole any size and shape you want.
I replaced full length stringers,transom,gunwhale,floor and helm wood in a 77 bubbledeck Tahiti.When people first saw it they said why bother but after it was done they were like its cool to see and old hull saved.
Good luck,just make sure you really like the old hull.
Jake
Just to clarify my post above. I did all my work wtih the intake in. I was not planning on a set back and blueprinting the bottom. After I decided to do it and pulled the intake i was able to feather out the glass work in the bildge better and the end result was cleaner. If I was to do it over agian I would pull the intake but it can be done with it left in.
I went through pretty much the same feedback and discourgment that Jake did and you probably will.. but once your done that all changes.
tahitijet
10-31-2005, 09:15 PM
what yr and style is your tahiti???????????? mine is a 73 19 ft cl side winder,s are splashs of them. let me NO????????????later
If your asking about mine.. It's 78 super tiger
From this
http://www.hotboatpics.com/pics/data/500/709myboat-med.jpg
to this
http://www.hotboatpics.com/pics/data/500/709P8120090-med.JPG
http://classicboatbeachbash.com/2005pics/magicgallery/DSCN7799.jpg
Sure i put more money in it then it's worth, did more work to it then i should have. Was it worth it to me? I think so, would i do it agian? you bet.
I say if you like the boat go for it.
lilrick
10-31-2005, 09:38 PM
do the pump! Set it back, ride plate &shoe, it'll be worth it!
HotDogz
11-01-2005, 03:17 PM
Boats are a labor of love, not an example of rational thinking! :)
DelawareDave
11-01-2005, 03:28 PM
Boats are a labor of love, not an example of rational thinking! :)
Ain't that the truth! :D
DelawareDave
11-01-2005, 03:48 PM
check 6 ft (at least) forward from the tramson ,see if it is straight!!!!!!!!!! hooks &rockers kill a boat performance.
How do you determine if a rocker is supposed to be there or not? I just had my 75 Hawaiian off the trailer and on a dolly. The straight boards supporting the boat were at the strakes located just outside the short engine stringers. The bottom definitely has a rocker in it. The straight boards were 10 feet. The bottom of the hull was on the boards, except for the last 44 inches. The transom was raised off the boards evenly on both sides 1/2 inch. The engine stringers are 49 inches, so they go past the rocker point. Could this rocker be intentional? Should I remove it when I replace the stringers? The bottom is straight at the strakes on either side of the center keel line.
holorinhal
11-01-2005, 04:46 PM
Ok,so if I do decide to remove the intake ,how and what is the best method of removal?Is it a two piece deal that I can remove only the top,or is it one piece.It is for a Berkley.Part of the transom wood goes under the lip that sticks through the trans opening and seems like it would be difficult to get it glassed in really good without removal.
What would be the advantage of a set back?The intake looks like it is real close to the very back of the transm and keel edge as it is.
..Hal
Jeanyus
11-01-2005, 08:54 PM
To get the intake out you have to go around it top and bottom with a cut off wheel in a grinder or die grinder, then carefully pry it out with pry bars, so as not to crack the existing bottom.
I have done 2 boats with dry rot problems, the first one I spent uncountable hours and $6,000.00. Trying to fix it. That boat, I ended up pushing the stripped hull off the trailer at the dump and watched the dump dozer run it over and smash it to pieces.
If I had it to do over again, I would take my 6 grand and buy a new hull, and go from there. New hulls benifit from technology, fiberglass ages and goes bad, an old boat from the 70's with dry rot, is a hole to dump money in. Not trying to discourage you just giving practical advice. The same advice that was given to me, only I did not listen.
tahitijet
11-01-2005, 09:14 PM
the intake comes out in 1 pieace. Undo the nuts take a punch and drop it onto the bolts through the holes in the intake and knock the bolts out the bottom of the boat. take a grinder and carefully cut into the epoxy around the intake. Then i straped around my boat and the trailer holding the boat on the trailer and put a jack and block of wood under the intake. Slowly start adding preasure and take a chiesel and hammer inside and work your way around chipping out epoxy, then add more preasure and repeat.
Judging by the pic above you have more then an inch (maybee 2 even?) that your intake can move back. You can also have the last 3/4" or so of the intake machined off to allow for another 3/4" of setback without having to go through the transom.
Would your boat benefit from a setback? I'd call jack at MPD or Duane at HTP for that advice.
To get the intake out you have to go around it top and bottom with a cut off wheel in a grinder or die grinder, then carefully pry it out with pry bars, so as not to crack the existing bottom.
I have done 2 boats with dry rot problems, the first one I spent uncountable hours and $6,000.00. Trying to fix it. That boat, I ended up pushing the stripped hull off the trailer at the dump and watched the dump dozer run it over and smash it to pieces.
If I had it to do over again, I would take my 6 grand and buy a new hull, and go from there. New hulls benifit from technology, fiberglass ages and goes bad, an old boat from the 70's with dry rot, is a hole to dump money in. Not trying to discourage you just giving practical advice. The same advice that was given to me, only I did not listen.
it blows me away that more folks dont use aluminum. it doesnt rot, and for $8500 you get a new hull that will FLY and look awesome. i dont think twice about flying mine on a barge wake and hitting HARD, it doesnt flex, bend or wobble, and the occasional crack is a simple weld up job.
DelawareDave
11-02-2005, 06:01 PM
HHHMMMMM- I could make patterns off of mine, and fab a hull up out of aluminum plate. I may just have to look into that! :wink: Without costing it up first, I could probably build 2 for 8500.
holorinhal
11-06-2005, 07:36 PM
So,the two pieces come out together?The hull is not sandwiched between the top and bottom piece?
Once I am ready to reinstall the intake Is there any glass work to do or is it only epoxied back in.What is the sealant between the two pieces,its pretty hard,is that epoxy as wellWhat kind or brand of epoxy do i use and where do i find it.I use epoxy when setting certain types of marble and tile floors,is it different,it is a chemical two part and bonds extreamly well and is hard as hell.Just looking for You guys experiance on installation as well as removal.
Thaks ...Hal
Its only one piece, it will lift out of the boat, its not sandwiched or anything like that.
use sea goin putty 2 part epoxy, rex marine has it.
tahitijet
11-06-2005, 07:45 PM
In the pic you posted that 1 pieace not 2. it's set in from the top and smoothed and blened to the bottom. the pieace bolted on from the bottom is just a grate or loader attached to the intake itself. Once you pop that hole pieace out you'll have a large rectangle hole under neat it with bolt holes on each side where you knocked the bolts thru the bottom..
Epoxy is a 2 part deal. I got mine from Jack at MPD. I'd recomend calling him as he usually is full of great information as well.
blown428fe
11-06-2005, 07:45 PM
I had a bitch of a time when I epoxed mine back in, the stuff kept running out bad on me. tried another batch and that did the same thing to. I dont have the name in front of me but can put it up Mon. I m sure everybody on here will steer you to the good shit and give you some tips. Good luck with your boat.
holorinhal
11-06-2005, 07:54 PM
Thank's A bunch Guy's,All this info is a great help!
...Hal
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