Now I'm pissed off

[Ian]

Well today I started my boat again after replacing the head gaskets for the fourth time, and would'nt you now it the son of a b*@%h leaked like a siv. The first three times I tried to get it to seal I used copper gaskets, the first time I used spray-on hylomar, the second time I tried copper coat, the third time I tried hylomar in a tube, and each time it leaked out of the front of the motor (in a v-drive) and in different spots each time. So the fourth time I said to hell with the copper gaskets and I ordered a set of gaskets from Clay Smith; they assured me they would work with o-rings. So after bolting it all together and letting it set for a couple days I fired it up, and wouldn't you know it as soon as the block filled up with water it started leaking everywhere. Now I don't know what to do, I think I might pull the o-rings and run a set of high perf. fel-pros. My friend runs a naturally aspirated deal with 16:1 on alcohol and he has no problem with the fel-pros. Right now the motor has two o-rings around each cylinder and I think they aren't allowing the head to compress the gaskets completely. We are running about 7.2:1 compression with 15lbs of boost, do you think the fel-pros will hold up. Sorry for the long post, but I am really pissed off and I'm running out of ideas. :confused: I would like to take the motor back to Norm Grimes and let him seal it up, but I'm trying to save money.

[Fiat48]

Do you think it might be possible that the intake gasket is not sealing along the bottom edge of the water port? You might consider this because I have seen brand new manifolds that were not machined properly and did not compress the intake gasket and seal the water. Also many specs are lost in decking, milling heads and the like. Sounding like you have way too much water leaking as most everyone fights some seepage around the bolt holes and the water passages in the head/block area. I'm beginning to think head gaskets may not be the problem. You've gone to hell and back..well...maybe not back yet..but you might try rigging up something to pressure test the water system.

[BrendellaJet]

No sure if you have had the heads or the block resurfaced lately, but I had a buddy who rebuilt his motor and did all his own machine work through a local community college program. He had the same problem. Turns out that the machine they were using to resurface the heads was missing a blade which created a surface which was not as flat as needed to get a proper seal. Had it resurfaced and never saw a drop of water again.

[Infomaniac]

Ian:
Well today I started my boat again after replacing the head gaskets for the fourth time, and would'nt you now it the son of a b*@%h leaked like a siv. The first three times I tried to get it to seal I used copper gaskets, the first time I used spray-on hylomar, the second time I tried copper coat, the third time I tried hylomar in a tube, and each time it leaked out of the front of the motor (in a v-drive) and in different spots each time. So the fourth time I said to hell with the copper gaskets and I ordered a set of gaskets from Clay Smith; they assured me they would work with o-rings. So after bolting it all together and letting it set for a couple days I fired it up, and wouldn't you know it as soon as the block filled up with water it started leaking everywhere. Now I don't know what to do, I think I might pull the o-rings and run a set of high perf. fel-pros. My friend runs a naturally aspirated deal with 16:1 on alcohol and he has no problem with the fel-pros. Right now the motor has two o-rings around each cylinder and I think they aren't allowing the head to compress the gaskets completely. We are running about 7.2:1 compression with 15lbs of boost, do you think the fel-pros will hold up. Sorry for the long post, but I am really pissed off and I'm running out of ideas. :confused: I would like to take the motor back to Norm Grimes and let him seal it up, but I'm trying to save money. There is something else wrong dude. The Detroit Gaskets from Clay Smith worked for me. I had a friend that they did not work for. It was because his bore was larger than 4.5"
I have never used 2 "O" rings myself. I cannot see any gasket getting between them.
I read guys using Yamabond and someone running block sealer after assembly also. I have not tried any of these myself.
I plan to try the coated copper gaskets next year when I up the compression in mine.
Take the intake off and do as Fiat suggested. pressure test the thing.
[ January 11, 2003, 10:37 PM: Message edited by: Infomaniac ]

[Fiat48]

Hope I can get this picture up. This is what I find a lot. This particular manifold was a new Victor for a Ford. Many times the angle of the cut is not correct. This goes for cylinder heads also. Aftermarket, Expensive and pretty don't mean it's right. Not saying this is your problem but just making everyone aware.
http://free.***boat.net/ubb/Avatars/Gearhead_Garage/Other_Equipment/DSCF0018.JPG

[Ian]

Thanks a lot for all the advice. I know it isn't the manifold because every time I've taken the heads off you can see where the block has started to rust where it was leaking, plus it seems to leak in slightly different areas each time. I think that Clay Smith sent us the gaskets for a non o-ringed block because it leaked like a siv. Typically it has leaked at the front of the motor between the block and head, but with the Clay Smith gasket it leaked everywhere. I had my heads in the shop before all this started because I had a bad valve and he resurfaced them so i'm sure they're fine, but the block does have some minor pitting in it. It was like that when I pulled it a part and it worked fine so I don't see why we can't get it to seal now. I told George at Clay Smith exactly what I have, a 454 60 over with o-rings, but it could be possible someone in shipping sent me the wrong thing. As for the two o-rings, I'm not sure why Norm Grimes did that, but with as many records as he has I don't question it. I think what I need to do know is take it to a shop and have them check the surfaces and if they check-out I just need to try another set of gaskets. What do you guys suggest? :confused:
P.S. I sent you all a fiver for the good advice

[GofastRacer]

Ian, you say you had the heads surfaced and the block has some pitting!, that sounds like it's been awhile sinse the block has been done, it may be time to clean up the deck, now that you have one flat surface, you need to make sure that both surfaces are flat!. With two flat surfaces, you shouldn't have leaks regardless of the type gasket being used. If you're going to keep the O-Rings, I would use the copper gaskets myself!..
Also, unless I missed it, I din't see mention of the head studs!, do you have adequate sealer on the threads?, any traces of rust around any of the studs by the block?..Just a thought, something to check!!.....My .02... :rolleyes:

[Ian]

Hi, this is Tom, Ian's Dad and partner. I just want to express my gratitude for evryones input. Like Ian I'm pretty frustrated, but determined to get this thing right. I believe the surfaces are good and think I could eventually get copper to work for us but I'm ready to try plain old Fel Pro at this point. I questioned the Clay Smith gaskets because they have what appears to be a steel ring like a Fel Pro and I didn't see how they would absorb the "O" rings and allow the heads to come all the way down on the block. As Ian said, they usually just seep a little at the end, but this time it poured out everywhere.I'm headed out to the garage now to tear it down again for the last time I hope. Thanks again, Tom

[superdave013]

WOW, sorry to hear about all the trouble. I bet you guys are about ready to burn that sucka by now.
I have always used those Detroit Gaskets that Clay Smith sells. But I only have one set of o rings. They are in the block only.
Maybe with the 2 o ring set up the coppers are the way to go.

[Infomaniac]

I almost did not use the Detroits myself because they looked stock. They are twice the price they were a year ago also.
Get ready to clean the surfaces. That orange stuff on those Detroits melt onto the block and heads if you let the engine get any temp.
If you did not start it maybe you should before taking it apart.

[LeE ss13]

SD013
Anything good at the Swapmeet???
Cowboy wisdom: "Never pick a fight with a porcupine."

[superdave013]

LeE ss13:
SD013
Anything good at the Swapmeet???
Cowboy wisdom: "Never pick a fight with a porcupine." Just the chicks handing out flyers for picAparts :D

[Ian]

Here's a pic of the block right after I pulled the head off, I haven't cleaned it up yet and I sprayed it down with WD40 so that's why it's so dirty.
http://free.***boat.net/ubb/Avatars/Forum_Graphic_Depot/tn_106-0636_IMG.JPG
sorry it is so small, I'll have to figur out how to make it bigger
[ January 12, 2003, 03:08 PM: Message edited by: Ian ]

[Fiat48]

So the head gaskets you are now trying are from Clay Smith and are not copper? If so,there must be some type of O ring built into the gasket such as the Felpro's have. I can't see how this O ring in the gasket could seal against your existing 2 o rings in the block.
SCE I heard was making a copper gasket with a type of silicone seal already in them. I believe REX marine had a line on these.
A couple years ago we had a similar problem but I think not as bad as what you have. I have always used Permatex Ultra Blue silicone seal around all the water ports, BOTH sides of the head gaskets, and all the stud threads in the block. But on this particular motor we had filled the block clear to the top of the deck. So I didn't do my normal silicone thing. When we fired it, we noticed water dripping between the head and block and also water crawling up the studs into the valve cover area. We took it apart and siliconed the heads and studs as I normally do, but the silicone we used was Napa's ultra blue (same stuff we thought, but it is not.) We took the boat to the lake for testing and after a few runs, found water in the oil. We disassembled again :mad: and I insisted we use only what I used before which was the Permatex brand. It sealed up fine with no problems.
:p Put alcohol in that some buck and forget about water idea
PS: In the old days we used to o ring the block with a receiver groove but not put an O ring in it. Then we used a regular Fel Pro head head gasket. That's before they made the Felpro O ring head gaskets. The old cheap gasket would really bite in to the receiver groove and make it's own O ring. I gotta go now, my age is showing. :p
[ January 12, 2003, 04:28 PM: Message edited by: Fiat48 ]

[Ian]

This is tom and yes that is what I have been saying, how can the "O" rings dig into that metal ring in the Clay Smith gasket. Am I missing something here? What you said about the FEL PRO biting into the "O" ring grove(when wire is removed) makes sense to me.

[Infomaniac]

Sorry guys, that "O" ring does dig into the Clay Smith gasket. If I had an old one I would show you. Mine gets close to the edge but does seal.
Take a picture of yours and post it. A bigger pic though.
You can bet if I recommend something it should work and I have tried it.
You guys have something else going on with your deal. It might be the dual ring set up.

[Fiat48]

Yes, would love to see that gasket.

[Ian]

Infomaniac, The 2 "O"rings must be the difference. I can see where these dug into the ring but it must not have gone deep enough. I'm not sure how to post pics, when I figure it out I have pics of block and gasket. Tom

[twistedpair]

Ian:
Here's a pic of the block right after I pulled the head off, I haven't cleaned it up yet and I sprayed it down with WD40 so that's why it's so dirty.
http://free.***boat.net/ubb/Avatars/Forum_Graphic_Depot/tn_106-0636_IMG.JPG
sorry it is so small, I'll have to figur out how to make it bigger http://free.***boat.net/ubb/Avatars/Forum_Graphic_Depot/106-0636_IMG.JPG

[superdave013]

Yeah that dual ring deal sounds kinda odd. I've seen the block o ringed with a reciver groove in the head. Or like mine with just the block ringed. I've never seen that dual ring set up though.
I've been using George @ Clay Smith for years and those are the gaskets that he has always put in my engines.
But I can totaly see why they didn't work with what you have going.

[GofastRacer]

I've heard of dual o-ring before but this the first time I seen it and from what I see, the only gasket that will work is a copper one!. If it was me, I would take the block and skim the surface to make sure it was true and clean, get a fresh set of gaskets, make sure the studs are sealed in the block, put a little gasket sealer around the water passages and torque em down, can't see any reason for any leaks!!...Just my .02, but what do I know?.. :rolleyes:

[Infomaniac]

I should have enlarged that pic myself. There is not enough room between those wires for any type of material to get between. Those two outer rings are very close. If you use copper without receiver grooves there is not any room for the material displaced by the "O" ring to go.
I would consider pulling the outer rings and just using the inner. Even when using copper the thickness of the gasket is critical. I cannot remember what the ratio is but the thickness needs to be X number the height of the "O" ring.
At the very least have your engine builder give you some specific direction. Even the type of goop to put around the water passages and studs. Unless he just wants you to take it to him to fix.
I can see what I think is the gasket not sealing off between the cylinders. Compression leak. The block needs decked.
[ January 12, 2003, 08:04 PM: Message edited by: Infomaniac ]

[Infomaniac]

Ian:
Infomaniac, The 2 "O"rings must be the difference. I can see where these dug into the ring but it must not have gone deep enough. I'm not sure how to post pics, when I figure it out I have pics of block and gasket. Tom If both rings hit the metal in that gasket but not deep enough. The block or head needs to be decked. In ref to my above post. All 4 rings there together, I cannot see even copper moving enough to get between all of that. That is a lot of material to displace in a small area. If the imprint is not deep enough in the Clay Smith Gasket, the head did not give way to the gasket. It must be the block not square (low) at that point. Maybe from not sealing there in the past? Compare the depth of the imprint to the height of the "O" ring
[ January 12, 2003, 08:02 PM: Message edited by: Infomaniac ]

[GofastRacer]

Infomaniac:
I should have enlarged that pic myself. There is not enough room between those wires for any type of material to get between. Those two outer rings are very close. If you use copper without receiver grooves there is not any room for the material displaced by the "O" ring to go.
I would consider pulling the outer rings and just using the inner. Even when using copper the thickness of the gasket is critical. I cannot remember what the ratio is but the thickness needs to be X number the height of the "O" ring.
At the very least have your engine builder give you some specific direction. Even the type of goop to put around the water passages and studs. Unless he just wants you to take it to him to fix.
I can see what I think is the gasket not sealing off between the cylinders. Compression leak. The block needs decked. You're absolutely right, I should have spotted that right off!! :mad: Shit, must be getting old or something!!...There's definitly not enough room for diplacement with the wires being that close, I still would go with the copper's. Also when the block is decked, the depth of the o-ring groove needs to be increased as well to keep the proper wire height!..As far as goop goes, the best stuff I've ever used (I tried them all) is not available anymore, it was from Ford "Perfect Seal", worked bitchin on copper gaskets and the studs and was real easy to clean when you took it apart!, wish I knew if it was still available somewhere!!..... eek!

[superdave013]

Wow, that is strange. I thought he ment he had rings in the block and heads.
It must not be sealing at all to let water in the cylinder like that. I think I'ed be wantine to pull those outer rings out too.
I know Grimes did the engine. I wounder if he still does them like that?

[Ian]

Thanks again guys, to clear a few things up we have never had a problem getting the cylinders to seal. I have saved all of the old gaskets and there is no sign of blow by between the cylinders.
I also think you're right about the two o-rings making it difficult to displace the gasket material, but I know it's possible because the motor has been together for quit a while and we never had problems until we pulled it a part. Also through all of our attempts at sealing up the motor we have never gotten any water into the oil, it always just leaks out of the motor.
Like I said before I had the heads at Sissel automotive and they resurfaced them so I'm confident there's no problem there. I am going to have the block checked out, but I would like to avoid resurfacing the block as I am on a tight budget and I'm sure we would have to completely disassemble the short block to resurface it. I don't think Norm Grimes still puts two o-rings around each cylinder, he put this motor together a long time ago, and he was probably just experimenting with it.
Right now I am leaning towards ditching the o-rings and running a Fel-Pro. Next year we want to switch to alcohal so we're going to send the motor to Norm Grimes and we'll let him worry about getting the copper gaskets to seal.

[Infomaniac]

Hope you have better luck this time. It is tuff to diagnose things from pics and descriptions. I know you guys were really frustrated if you came to the boards for help. As you can see there are many opinions and you have to consider them all and make a decision based on that.
I will share one experience I had with water coming out of the head. The dyno room at an engine shop I worked at had very good water pressure because the city water plant was only about 1 1/2 blocks away. If we let an engine fill up all the way with the hose it would push out around the head gasket. Would never leak while running on the closed loop system. It does not take that much pressure to get past the gasket of an engine.
That Clay Smith gasket does melt the orange coating onto the block and head when it gets hot.

[flat broke]

Ian:
Like I said before I had the heads at Sissel automotive and they resurfaced them so I'm confident there's no problem there. I am going to have the block checked out, but I would like to avoid resurfacing the block as I am on a tight budget and I'm sure we would have to completely disassemble the short block to resurface it. I don't think Norm Grimes still puts two o-rings around each cylinder, he put this motor together a long time ago, and he was probably just experimenting with it.
Sorry if you already mentioned this, but are the o rings setup for receiver grooves in the heads? If so and you had the heads surfaced, did they deepen the grooves in the head? if not, your bottoming out and will probably never compress the gasket adequately. Again, I just skimmed the thread, so I'm sorry if I missed that bit of information. Either way, you could always call George and show him the pic you showed us and ask for his input.
Good luck,
Chris

[Ian]

Thanks again guys for all the help, I talked on the phone yesterday with Greg Shoemaker and Norm Grimes for quit a while and we got it all sorted out. Greg got my phone number from a guy on the forum and took the time to call me and give me some advice, he had heard about my problem and had talked to Norm about it as well. Both Norm and Greg did not feel the Clay Smith gaskets would work with the two o-ring set-up, so they told me what I was doing wrong and now I feel confident it will seal the next time I try. I was ready to pay Norm to put the motor back together and he assured me that wasn't necessary; it really impresses me that he would pass up on the work to save me a little money. Well now I'm rambling, just wanted to tell everyone how happy I am to have met such great guys in the sport (you all included).
Ian
P.S. also found out my motor was put together twenty years ago. Pretty impresive considering there is absolutely no blow-by

[Infomaniac]

Ian:
Thanks again guys for all the help, I talked on the phone yesterday with Greg Shoemaker and Norm Grimes for quit a while and we got it all sorted out. Greg got my phone number from a guy on the forum and took the time to call me and give me some advice, he had heard about my problem and had talked to Norm about it as well. Both Norm and Greg did not feel the Clay Smith gaskets would work with the two o-ring set-up, so they told me what I was doing wrong and now I feel confident it will seal the next time I try. I was ready to pay Norm to put the motor back together and he assured me that wasn't necessary; it really impresses me that he would pass up on the work to save me a little money. Well now I'm rambling, just wanted to tell everyone how happy I am to have met such great guys in the sport (you all included).
Ian
P.S. also found out my motor was put together twenty years ago. Pretty impresive considering there is absolutely no blow-by Well let us know. How do you seal up copper gaskets?

[Ian]

Well there's two ways. One way is to use the high temp red permetex, the second is a silicone that general motors sells at their parts dept. Norm and Greg both agreed that Hylomar and Copper coat, the two things I tried in the past, wouldn't work because they don't have very good adhesive properties. I already tried a test spot on one of my old copper gaskets, I rubbed a little hylomar, some copper coat and some permetex. Both the hylomar and copper coat rubbed off with my fingers but the permetex stuck much better. Also in the past I was rubbing the hylomar all over the block and head and by the time I put it all together it was almost dry so I don't think it was sticking to the gasket, Norm told me to put it just around the water passages. I'm going to put it back together this weekend so I'll keep everyone posted.

[superdave013]

All I have to say is that it's really really cool of Greg to go that far out of his way to track you down and help you out. How many other people would even think of doing that when they know there is no $$$ in it for the. That's pretty bad ass I think. Maybe that's why GS Marine does well. And like you said. For Norm Grims to school you up so you didn't have to take it back to him is also really cool.
Props to 2 upstanding guys!

[wfodude]

I wish you luck Ian...I had the same problem on my blower motor . Red high temp permatex seems to be the best. I still have problems as my O-rings are too high. I was told they should only be 005-007 above the deck...Mine were 020...With Hylomar it leaked like a fire hose...I'm just getting another block and starting from scratch.

[Fiat48]

Quote"Well there's two ways. One way is to use the high temp red permetex, the second is a silicone that general motors sells at their parts dept. Norm and Greg both agreed that Hylomar and Copper coat, the two things I tried in the past, wouldn't work because they don't have very good adhesive properties."
Lets see, where have we heard that before?
Fiat48 January 4th posted:
"The water will crawl right up the studs and leak. You have to seal the water ports with silicone. I use Ultra blue. You have to silicone all the studs into the block. I have been doing it for years and know your grief. But I have read here there are some new gaskets available..I think Rex Marine had a line on that. I also heard that one of the gasket manufacturers was going to start putting sealing stuff around the water jackets (built right into the gasket). But you still gotta get those studs siliconed.
Unchained posted Dec 20th:
Don't waste your time with Hylomar.
Been there, Done that, had water leaks, extra tear downs. Bad idea.
Use silicone around the water transfer ports. It works great. Clean off with a wire brush on an air grinder when you need to remove the heads.
Infomaniac posted Dec 20th:
Been there with Hylomar also. It did not seal up for me. Spray and tube both
Eliminator777 posted Dec 22nd:
I've been useing copper head gaskets for ever not a problem o-ring block a little silicone around water holes it works oh yes you need a good deck and head surfaces.
And there's some more on other forums, just can't find them all. Congrats to those who got it right!
Joe Mondello said it best "Money can buy parts and pieces but experience is priceless."

[Fiat48]

wfodude:
I wish you luck Ian...I had the same problem on my blower motor . Red high temp permatex seems to be the best. I still have problems as my O-rings are too high. I was told they should only be 005-007 above the deck...Mine were 020...With Hylomar it leaked like a fire hose...I'm just getting another block and starting from scratch. You may not believe this, but I have purposely put my O rings in at .020 above the deck and not only don't have a sealing problem but have a much better seal in the cylinders that don't have the bolt at the top of the cylinder. I've used copper gaskets from .040 to .072 with this setup and no receiver grooves in the head either.

[Ian]

I hope I didn't piss you off Fiat48, I'm not saying what Norm and Greg told me was something I had never heard before. I was just excited to find out exactly how Norm put it together because I know it never leaked when he did it. Plus all of you were shocked to see two o-rings around each cylinder, Norm and Greg are the only two guys I have ever spoken with that had experience with dual o-ringed motors. Many of you guys said the same thing as they did, but in the past many people swore by Hylomar, Copper Coat, and Clay Smith Gaskets, none of which worked for me. So you can see how I might have been a little apprehensive, I had already tried four times what guys swore to me would work and four times they leaked. Trust me I am very greatful to all of you that took the time to help me, and I have thanked you all numerous times, plus I gave everyone a fiver I hadn't already rated. I know all of you have probably forgotten more about motors than I have learned in my short motor building life. I just wanted to give some recognition to some guys that none of you knew had helped me.
Thanks again!! Ian

[Fiat48]

No, I was just commending those that got it right. And it shows the power of these forums. Long ago, I was looking for some Hylomar, read it was the greatest thing ever for sealing copper gaskets. But I never could find any. So, I was using the red high temp silicone at the time. Kept thinking there must be a better way. I went to the Ultra Blue Silicone cause it's at least not so ugly!
But this shows how many people have had the same problems. How they have approached it and what works. I am grateful to them also, cause without reading so many had tried the other methods, I would have tried them. There was a similar subject on other forums and the guys said Hylomar doesn't work. When I get 2 or 3 guys telling me something does or doesn't work, I gotta figure they know something I don't. I'd still like to try those head gaskets Rex was talking about, the Coppers by SCE with a built in Silicone rings. One thing also I might add. I always clean all surfaces to be siliconed with lacquer thinner. The least bit of oil on the block, head or gasket surface will keep the silicone from bonding.
And how was it sealing before you had all this problem? Were there Copper Gaskets before? Was silicone used before?
[ January 14, 2003, 11:08 PM: Message edited by: Fiat48 ]

[Ian]

The motor was sealed up fine before I tore it a part. I took the heads off because they needed a valve job. When I pulled it a part it had copper gaskets with silicone, but I didn't know what kind and I didn't want to bug Norm (little did I know he was very willing lend me some advice), also a lot of people had told me to use Hylomar or Copper Coat so I figured it would work fine. I did buy a set of those gaskets that Rex Marine sells, but I screwed up the sealent trying to drill the two extra head bolts. I figured if it was that easy to mess-up it probably wouldn't work that good. I have been cleaning the block, gaskets and heads very good with accetone and rubing alcohol before putting everything together.

[Fiat48]

If you get a chance, post a picture of one of those gaskets, like to see what they look like. Yes, drilling soft copper a pain, I don't know a pretty way to do it. I quit doing the extra bolt holes in the old blocks. I found the O ring located higher in the block and a slight "peening" to raise the metal in that area works.
Hope it all works this time and don't forget to silicone the heck out of those studs into the block. Amazes me how that water will walk right up the stud and drip into the motor.

[Ian]

Here is a pick of the Copper gasket with the silicone already on it.
http://free.***boat.net/ubb/Avatars/Forum_Graphic_Depot/106-0650_IMG.JPG
I'm putting the motor back together tommorow with high heat red permetex this time. Do you guys put the permetex on both the head and bolck? Also do you run a nice bead around the water jackets or do you rub all around with your finger?

[Fiat48]

Thanks for the picture! I put it on pretty thick and both sides of head gasket. I'd rather have too much than too little. And real heavy on the studs.
Next Topic I want to see you post is "My engine doesn't leak anymore! :D
[ January 17, 2003, 02:49 PM: Message edited by: Fiat48 ]

[Infomaniac]

I ususlly goop the block and head. That way it is sure to hit the area needed. Sometimes if you goop around a hole in the gasket, the hole in the head or block is actually much larger and you do not get full contact.
Just my method. Not saying anyone elses method does not work.

[Ian]

We're almost done, hopefully this is the last time we have to do this for a while. As you can see in the bottom of the picture we got plenty of silicone.
http://free.***boat.net/ubb/Avatars/Forum_Graphic_Depot/106-0655_IMG.JPG

[Fiat48]

Don't forget a bead of silicone around those water ports that go to the intake. Best gasket I found for that was Fel Pros with silicone bead around them. But I use some additional there just in case.
Not nit picking but don't you use a lube on the studs for better torque specs? Like ARP lube?
[ January 18, 2003, 01:22 PM: Message edited by: Fiat48 ]

[Ian]

Yeah I used a moly lube on the studs, that's what our head guy recommended

[Ian]

Well I'm finished, I hope we can leave it together for a little while this time. Hopefully next week we will be installing the Enderle injection, then we need to get a set of 8mm pulleys, about twenty percent over would be nice. But you know how it is, we'll never be done. I sure would like to stop spending money on this boat so I can save up for that 22ft. Daytona I want.
http://free.***boat.net/ubb/Avatars/Forum_Graphic_Depot/106-0657_IMG.JPG

[Infomaniac]

Everything looks nice.
No better way to spend a Saturday.

[BILLY.B]

Ian:
Well I'm finished, I hope we can leave it together for a little while this time. Hopefully next week we will be installing the Enderle injection, then we need to get a set of 8mm pulleys, about twenty percent over would be nice. But you know how it is, we'll never be done. I sure would like to stop spending money on this boat so I can save up for that 22ft. Daytona I want.
http://free.***boat.net/ubb/Avatars/Forum_Graphic_Depot/106-0657_IMG.JPG IAN, Billy-"B" here, let me understand something here, you plan on getting rid of the flatty for a 22ft Daytona? have you been stiffing to much permatex? A true flatty owner knows that he never gets rid of his first true "LOVE"!!!. I want to see if you feel the same way after you put the injector on there with 20% over on the blower! Better yet spin that deal at 35% with a 54 gear and a 11.5 x 16 and twist it at 7500 rpm and then let's see what you think. You may have a fight on your hands between your DAD/BROTHER if everything works out for you guys. Good luck and we'll talk to you later. :D :D :cool:

[Ian]

Come on now Billy B, what do you take me for. jawdrop I'll never get rid of the flatty, I'm a v-drive guy through and trough. I was just saying I'm sick of waisting time and money trying to get the motor to stop leaking. We bought a 21ft I/O after the last regatta, but we want to sell it in order to get a 22ft Daytona. You know we need the v-drive to get our adrenaline fix for the day and then we need the Daytona to blast down to the sandbar! :D

[Fiat48]

I knew that. That's why I didn't ask. It's a disease there is no cure for. Pretty boat. Hope you go to Red Bluff to the races. smile_sp

[GofastRacer]

Ian:
Come on now Billy B, what do you take me for. jawdrop I'll never get rid of the flatty, I'm a v-drive guy through and trough. I was just saying I'm sick of waisting time and money trying to get the motor to stop leaking. We bought a 21ft I/O after the last regatta, but we want to sell it in order to get a 22ft Daytona. You know we need the v-drive to get our adrenaline fix for the day and then we need the Daytona to blast down to the sandbar! :D Damn, glad that's cleared up!, you had us worried there, thought you might have went over the deep end!!..... eek! eek! BTW, beutiful boat!!!... wink
http://free.***boat.net/ubb/Avatars/Forum_Graphic_Depot/106-0657_IMG1.JPG

[BILLY.B]

GofastRacer:
Ian:
Come on now Billy B, what do you take me for. jawdrop I'll never get rid of the flatty, I'm a v-drive guy through and trough. I was just saying I'm sick of waisting time and money trying to get the motor to stop leaking. We bought a 21ft I/O after the last regatta, but we want to sell it in order to get a 22ft Daytona. You know we need the v-drive to get our adrenaline fix for the day and then we need the Daytona to blast down to the sandbar! :D Damn, glad that's cleared up!, you had us worried there, thought you might have went over the deep end!!..... eek! eek! BTW, beutiful boat!!!... wink
http://free.***boat.net/ubb/Avatars/Forum_Graphic_Depot/106-0657_IMG1.JPG IAN, like GOFAST said you had me nervous. FLATTYS are the street rods for the river and DAYTONA'S are like S.U.V.'s , everyone's got one!!!. Alot of the people who have those s.u.v.'s like to slam the flatty's (can't go in rough water, can't carry enough people, all show and no go,) but it only takes a few good passes on nice water by yourself to put all those things behind you, not to mention that you'd go by them like a freight train by a hobo!!. :D :D .

[superdave013]

BILLY.B:
IAN, like GOFAST said you had me nervous. FLATTYS are the street rods for the river and DAYTONA'S are like S.U.V.'s , everyone's got one!!!. Alot of the people who have those s.u.v.'s like to slam the flatty's (can't go in rough water, can't carry enough people, all show and no go,) but it only takes a few good passes on nice water by yourself to put all those things behind you, not to mention that you'd go by them like a freight train by a hobo!!. :D :D . [/b]
**** that Daytona stuff. You need to get ya a 20-21' v drive cruiser! :D Sock some power to it and you'll have a rough water freight train! :D

[GofastRacer]

IAN, I think you said the wrong words!!.. :D :D
BTW, not ALLLLL DAYTONA's are S.U.V.'s!.. http://www.handykult.de/plaudersmilies.de/jump.gif
http://free.***boat.net/gallery/Reader_Rides/V-Drives/My_Boat2.JPG

[Ian]

Did I say Daytona eek! man I must have been really tired last night, what I meant to say was 21ft Schiada wink

[GofastRacer]

wink :D :D :D

[ACCEPTENCE]

Ian, Dude that was a long thread to read and I feel bad for all the grief you had.
So is it done now??? It's all good???

[Ian]

Yeah I think it's all good now, we still have to retorque the heads and put it in the water, but I feel pretty confident. I'll keep everyone posted. I hope it's finished so we can focus on installing the injection, I let some people down with the Daytona comment, so I need to have a good tune in it by Billy B's bash so I can redeem myself with a few good passes. :D

[GofastRacer]

Ian:
Yeah I think it's all good now, we still have to retorque the heads and put it in the water, but I feel pretty confident. I'll keep everyone posted. I hope it's finished so we can focus on installing the injection, I let some people down with the Daytona comment, so I need to have a good tune in it by Billy B's bash so I can redeem myself with a few good passes. :D Glad to see you're back on track again!, shot ya five!!.. wink :cool: