please HELP:transom housing removal

[BRAWNY]

looking for a little advise on removing transom housing.removed alot
of silicone,but it just doesnt seem to budge.prying,pulling just isnt enough.anybody have any suggestions or tricks that work?
thanks in advance brawny

[bakerjet]

get a couple of thin putty knifes and wedge'm in and pry around on it it'll turn loose.

[BRAWNY]

yes the motor is still in the boat,trying the putty knife now,seems to
be getting in,just dont think its deep enough.havent given up yet.thanks for your input. brawny

[beerjet]

get a couple of thin putty knifes and wedge'm in and pry around on it it'll turn loose.
I'm gonna have to agree , the thin putty knives are gonna be your best bet. Try not to get too crazy with the cheese whiz and start swingin away at it like a serial killer !
-beerjet-

[cave]

I did mine and it was a biatch. I used some WD-40 with a thin Putty knife. I wanted to break out the small sledge hammer and start whacking away. Be patient.
Is the pump still in the housing? I had to remove the engine to get the pump out then I was able to remove the transom housing. Good luck

[poncho-pwr]

Some asshole used 3M 5200 sealant on the transom housing on my boat and after battleing that thing for almost two hours with putty knives and long straught razor blades I wanted to hunt him down and seal his ass and mouth shut with that stuff. I feel your pain my friend, just keep at it and it will come off.

[502 JET]

Some asshole used 3M 5200 sealant on the transom housing on my boat and after battleing that thing for almost two hours with putty knives and long straight razor blades I wanted to hunt him down and seal his ass and mouth shut with that stuff. I feel your pain my friend, just keep at it and it will come off.
That 3M 5200 is some bad a$$ stuff.It is not meant for anything that will ever need to be disassembled.You can put this stuff on and you wont need bolts or screws.I have seen this stuff pull off gel coat.The 3M 4200 is the stuff made for disassembly.You were lucky you removed your adapter with the transom intact.
The gentle putty knife tapped in and worked around the adapter worked for me after I cut away all the silicone I could.

[mappy01]

should I come back over with my putty knives?

[El Prosecutor]

Grease and gasket works good when you put it back on. No leaks here.

[robk]

Grease and gasket works good when you put it back on. No leaks here.
I second that! Worked great for me....
Rob

[shaun]

i used a large house clamp that i extended until the end came out, i then made it flat and pushed it through. Had somebody on the other side pulling in back and forth. Worked very well, expecially on the bowl to transom area...

[old rigger]

cut a few wood wedges and drive them in-between the transom and the TA. Works great, but if your boat's been painted, don't do it.

[BRAWNY]

thanks for all the help,gonna get that thing off today for sure. :crossx:
what type of grease are you talking about?
waterproof wheel bearing grease,lithium grease? thanks

[Oldsquirt]

Don't forget that the transom adapter also seals to the bowl, either with the stock 0-ring(which can be a real bitch) or with more of that same silicone that was used between adapter and transom.

[old rigger]

thanks for all the help,gonna get that thing off today for sure. :crossx:
what type of grease are you talking about?
waterproof wheel bearing grease,lithium grease? thanks
lithium grease.
Bond the gasket to the TA with silicone. After it cures, coat the other side with grease, coat the O ring with grease along with the inside of the TA where the O ring seats. Install the TA and you'll be able to take it off and on forever. Piece of cake.

[snake321]

I just had a 2 day battle with mine last week, like they said, get that little putty knife all the way through and start working it around. Just gettin it all the way in was the hard part. On my other jet, I tried the prying and banging method and I ended up with a big piece of gelcoat ripping off. This time I tried the patience method.