Electric fuel pump problem

[Craig]

I run a Holley "black" marine pump with a Holley regulator. It's mounted down in the center pod of my cat. The bottom of the pump itself is about 2 inches lower then the top of the fuel tank. About as low as I can get it. Pump heated up and died weekend before last after about 25 hours. Kept good fuel pressure (6 pounds until this point) Happened to have my red pump with me, tossed that on and ran the rest of the weekend. Put a new black pump on Thursday. Launched from Windsor, went around the island. Cranked it up a little to 92 for grins. Got in the channel and it died. No fuel. Pumps hot as hell. Put the red one back on and ran the rest of the weekend. Only problem is this red pump only has 5 pounds pressure and won't hold a sustained high rpm blast. It's got me baffled http://free.***boat.net/ubb/confused.gif -8 lines to IMCO valve, Teague filter assembly, pump, regulator then to 2 750's. Any input?????
Craig

[77charger]

when i have problems with a holley i usually trash it.but dumb enough to buy a new one.
The next pump i am getting is the mallory comp 140 they are pricey around 200-250 i believe(but they work good).I have held out because i am to cheap to fork out the dough but after buying three holleys i could have saved.

[DEL51]

I ran the different pumps, it is hard to beat a high performance mechanical for durability. I would send this pump(s) back to holley with a detailed explanation of wht happened and how you have it hooked up. I had good luck with the BG220 electric and a mallory return style regulator. This had return line from the regulator to the tank.You should get some assistance from holley, please call them and see what the have to say.Good Luck!

[Unchained]

I've had problems with the Holley electric pumps but still run one. The main problem is the pressure bypass sticks closed and then the pump overheats. At least once a season it needs to be dismantled and cleaned out. Other than that the red pump has kept up sufficient pressure even for a blown 540.

[Craig]

del51, I'd run a return set up if I didn't have to drop another $500 for a new IMCO valve. I run a cat with two tanks, so you have to have a valve that switches the return back to the original tank.
Unchained, pulled the pump out of the boat. Hooked it to a battery. Ran for a second then started clunking and stopped. Pulled the pump apart. Electric stuff looked OK. Pulled the bottom off, everything looked fine. Spun it by hand and you could feel the vanes binding. Shot some WD-40 in it, threw it back together it sounds fine. But, I doubt I'll run it again. You're running a red pump on a blown motor? My red pump would only run 5 psi at idle and if you crank on it the pressure goes down to 3!
Called Holley. I was less then impressed by their tech service. Yesterday the guy said the pump has to be below the bottom of the tank so it's gravity fed. How do you do that in a boat where the fuel outlet is on the top of the tank and the tank sits on the bottom of the boat????? No answer. Said he wouldn't even recommend a pump becuase I can't set it up properly. Called back today, got another guy. Told him I lost two pumps in a short period, he didn't even ask what my set up was or anything. Lousy service, period. I'm calling Mallory shortly to talk to them and see what they say.
[This message has been edited by Craig (edited May 14, 2002).]

[HavasuDreamin']

I run a Holley Blue on my O/B at 6 PSI. Last summer it worked fine until the end of the summer and then it would get hot and shut down. I would pull the line of the regulator, and turn the key. Gas would spew out. Put the line back on and it would run fine for a while. I put a new Holley Blue in this winter and have not been out yet http://free.***boat.net/ubb/frown.gif but I am interested in what alternatives I might have. Mine is simple, runs from a single tank through a gas/water separating filter to the Holley Blue to the regulator to the motor. The Holley Pump is located approximately 1" - 2" below the top of the tank. If this new pump craps out on me this year, what do you guys recommend? I don't mind spending money if I get my money worth! Thanks.

[stressedout]

One word... MALLORY... Been runnin the same ones on the hydro for 12 yrs. never a problem. Well worth the cost over holleys, everyone I know that has run holleys has had problems.

[Unchained]

Craig, My mistake, I do have the blue pump on the boat. The red pump that I have is on the dune buggy. I must be going color blind.
Scrapper that it is the blue pump still maintains 5.5psi at 6000 rpm. Just not reliably.
When you took the pump apart what how did the bypass look? They like to get stuck in the bore and not move which causes the pump to deadhead.
Another problem that I had w/the Holley pump was one of the magnets came unglued from the case and was acting like a brake on the armature. What a fine piece of equipment.

[BlownChevy]

from what i have learned electric fuel pumps are made to PUSH not PULL so maybe that is the problem...
Logan

[Craig]

blownchevy, that is what Holley says, push not pull. But, how do you build a "marine" fuel pump that has to be mounted lower then the bottom of the tank? "It has to be gravity fed" they said. The outlet on the fuel tanks are on the top on most tanks. So it will have to draw suction one way or the other in 99% of the boats out there. Teagues shop told me today to use the blue pump. The black has too much volume and pressure for something that see's any amount of extended idling. The only way they sell the black pump is with a different relief valve spring in it.

[Thunderbutt]

I had a Holley blue pulling from two tanks with the outlets 12 inches higher then the pump and didn't have any problems for 28 years. I did switch to a Mallory only because the holley was to loud and it buged me. Originally posted by Craig:
blownchevy, that is what Holley says, push not pull. But, how do you build a "marine" fuel pump that has to be mounted lower then the bottom of the tank? "It has to be gravity fed" they said. The outlet on the fuel tanks are on the top on most tanks. So it will have to draw suction one way or the other in 99% of the boats out there. Teagues shop told me today to use the blue pump. The black has too much volume and pressure for something that see's any amount of extended idling. The only way they sell the black pump is with a different relief valve spring in it.

[sgdiv7]

Here's something to think about, when was the last time you read a post about a machanical pump problem.
Bill

[gnarley]

when was the last time you read a post about a machanical pump problem.[/QUOTE]
The problem with running mechanical pumps on some motors is that in the Mark V & VI BBC's case they don't have a mounting point for a mechanical pump like a Mark IV BBC so even if you wanted to run a mechanical you couldn't.

[Craig]

gnarley, that is it. I run a Gen 6 block with no fuel pump boss and I run a Jabsco brass seawater pump, so it's electric or buy the mercruiser seawater set up with the boss for the fuel pump. I was also hesitant to try and run almost 900 horsepower on a mechanical pump. I guess if you ran both you'd be OK though.
Craig

[riodog]

Craig, go get yourself an Aeromotive fuel pump,(about $260.), run all -8 lines. This type fuel doesn't "surge" like a holley and the pressure is very steady! Plumb it like this. Fuel tanks to fuel valve, in the line from the valve to the pump install a "T" fitting(this is BEFORE the pump). Then comes the pump, then the line to the pressure regulator(or the carbs, depends on your setup). After the regulator or the carbs, run the return line back to the "T" fitting. You do not need to run the return line back to the tanks. By running the line to the "T" in the main fuel line, it"s bypassing the tanks and going straight back to the pump.
On my blown Daytona 19, this is the setup I use with a filter before the pump and a filter after the pump. My pump is mounted on the top of the stringer about mid heigth on the fuel tanks. When you first install a setup like this, disconnect the return line at the "T" and "cap it off", turn on the pump and when you get fuel coming out of the return line, remove the cap and connect the return line to the "T". Very simple.
Fuel pump about $260. Fuel pressure regulator about $120.(Aeromotive also). Fuel pressure gauge can be run off of the regulator w/ 1/8 line or sending unit.
Hope this helps!
Riodog aka Michael

[Craig]

Thats an interesting thought there. Run basically a big recirc loop and feed the carbs off of that http://free.***boat.net/ubb/smile.gif I'm going out today to test the Holley blue pump. I made a bracket that has the pump an inch off of the bottom of the center sponson. Also put a BIG Fram water seperator/fuel filter before the pump. This thing has got to hold a quart of fuel! Figure it'll act like a surge tank. If I end up putting the old reliable red pump back on to get my butt home, I think I'll give your design a shot, as well as an Aeromotive pump! I post something later today.
Craig
[This message has been edited by Craig (edited May 19, 2002).]

[Hotcrusader76]

I use a Mallory 110 on my 18'Crusader. It is mounted mid height with the tanks, and performs flawlessly. It is about 6 years old, and still holds consistent pressure. Look into it!

[Jetboatguru]

Riodog has the right idea. Spend the money and put a stout pump on it. I would even put a Magna Flow on there. It is cheap insurance