The new motor:

[Some Kind Of Monster]

I got a nice deal on a used, in good condition, 4 bolt main, 454 motor. It was the entire motor minus the intake. The motor had flatened a cam which is ok because I am starting from scratch anyway. Here is what I have:
The block. Standard bore. Freshly honed, checked, and cleaned. Ready for assembly.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/1683P0004850.JPG
A couple of the bores have some light scratches because someone put this thing together dirty as you can see, even after honing. I keep being told that they will be no problem because it is "only a boat". What do you think?
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/1683P0004851.JPG
The crank needs to be turned. I am told it is a good crank as long as I get it worked on. Here are the rough surfaces.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/1683P0004848.JPG
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/1683P0004849.JPG
I want to reuse the pistons and arms to same a ton of $$$. I had the arms checked and balanced, and the pistons cleaned up. They are ready for new rings. Any suggestions?

[SmokinLowriderSS]

Looks good. Hope you don't have to actually turn the crank down (not a problem, just good luck wish). That cast steel crank is ONLY good for about 600 HP or so :crossx: , really solid pieces, as are the forged factory rods. I suspect they'll go higher in a boat if you aren't winding horrible RPM on them, like over 6,000.
I'm running a 2-bolt myself headed for 500 HP with a few more tweaks. Have you got heads? The ticket is late-model Large oval port open-chamber heads (781's or 049's (or their replacements)). I have a set of 353049's.
I've got an intake manifold available, cast iron, dual-plane, set up for spread-bore but with adapter for holley. Great for helping hold the back of the boat in contact with the water as it weighs about 60 pounds. :crossx:
Ran great 26 years till I bought a Performer RPM Air Gap. :idea:
I'm really happy with a cam kit I got from DuaneHTP, a jet-boat special custom grind he has Isky do for him.
What are your intentions with it?

[TIMINATOR]

The scratches in the cyl walls are ok for what you are doing, the crank should be taken in to have size/wear checked with a micrometer, if size is ok then it looks good enough to take a polish. The cylinder hone is way too rough for use as I can see in the pics. It looks as if maybe it was done with a "dingle-ball" hone, the roughness will hurt the rings immediately and cause higher oil consumption, and less power. If you want, bring over everything you have and I will look it over and make recomendations. I also have a lot of used stuff you may need. Also and most importantly; there are several years of BBChevy that will "eat" the cams, this is due to incorrect machining of the lifter bores from the factory. They will usually live with a factory cam or a small aftermarket cam. When the cam size is like a 280 or bigger, cam failure is likely. Your options: put it together with a bigger cam and hope for the best, get a high taper custom cam (the usual fix), or put a roller cam in it. There are bunches of BBCs around that have the same problem and are for sale. Good luck. TIMINATOR 623-877-8553

[victorfb]

yea that hone seems awfully rough. id take it a machine shop with a good hone and see if it can be smoothed out some without too much over bore. then clean the hell out of each cyclinder, then clean em again, and again. that roughness traps alot of dirt in the metal. i use warm water with luandry detergant and a rag and scrub and scrub. youd be amazed how much comes out.
Timinator: do you happen to know what blocks have this problem? is there a casting number to look for?