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View Full Version : How much for a professional carb rebuild???



mile2885
11-22-2005, 10:24 AM
I was given an estimate of around $300 for a complete rebuild on a Holley 4160. Does this sound like a lot to anybody else?????

Beer-30
11-22-2005, 10:29 AM
Add a grand to that $300, and throw the carb away. No more rebuilds.
http://www.holley.com/products.asp?product=950-21S

maxwedge
11-22-2005, 12:20 PM
I was given an estimate of around $300 for a complete rebuild on a Holley 4160. Does this sound like a lot to anybody else?????
Yep sounds like a lot to me. That's why If it were me I would go to the local parts store, spend the 10-20 bucks on a rebuild kit (they come with instructions) and some carb cleaner and do it myself. Grab "The Holley Caburator Manual" for another $15 if you are a non-mechanical person. Just read and follow the steps. Just takes patience and a few hours if you go slow. That way, you know it's done right, and you learn a usefull skill! Also, as an added bonus, your wife will probably bitch that you smell like carb cleaner and will leave you alone in the garage for the rest of the day! :rollside:

maxwedge
11-22-2005, 12:30 PM
Add a grand to that $300, and throw the carb away. No more rebuilds.
http://www.holley.com/products.asp?product=950-21S
No More rebuilds, my ass. If that's anything like their old Pro-jection systems, its going to eat fuel pumps, injectors, and controllers like they are going outta style. Besides for a few more bucks you can buy, or better yet build your own multi-port system. Maybe their quality got better, because the price sure didn't.

FASTRAT
11-22-2005, 12:42 PM
I was given an estimate of around $300 for a complete rebuild on a Holley 4160. Does this sound like a lot to anybody else?????
i agree with Maxwedge...go get the kit & re-build it urself...u dont need to spend the $$ for the manual...the kit comes with complete instructions...Holley carbs are so easy to do that a 10 yr old can do it! lol :)...seriously tho...they are really easy...if u have the List#...i or someone on here can help u with the proper pv's, jets etc & u might not even need a kit...just my .02 cents
fastrat
p.s. once u do 1...all the rest u ever do are really easy

mile2885
11-22-2005, 01:47 PM
Ya, I think all it needs is jets. With the new motor, the boat is running rich. My plugs are black and you can see the black smoke. I rebuilt the carb in the spring but that was set up for the old motor. I went to modified large oval heads, RPM-Air gap manifold and a slightly bigger cam. How do I know what jet size to use? Is it mainly trial and error?

Gearhead
11-22-2005, 02:38 PM
if you still have the carb on the engine, check the vacuum at idle. What you may need is a lower number (vacuum) power valve. A camshaft with more seat timing will lower the vacuum at idle and cause the power valve to open. Depending on the model (List #) the Holley carbs with power valves come with a 65, 85 or 105 power valve. These power valves open at 6.5", 8.5" and 10.5" respectively. If you have an 85 power valve, but your vacuum dips below this at idle it will definately slug out, black smoke and kill plugs. Put a PV in with a number 1 ot 2 below your vacuum.
What jet are you running now and what is the list#. I or someone on here can look to see if you are in the general correct range for your carb and engine.
What is the engine size and cam specs?

Gearhead
11-22-2005, 02:43 PM
One other thing about idle quality and response. When you remove the carburetor, take if off without changing any of the settings. Flip it over and look to see where your throttle blades are in relation to the slot in the baseplate. If the blade is open more than a quarter or 1/2 way up the slot, then you are not getting enough idle air and you may be idling on the main circuit. To remedy this, one can drill about a .100" hole in the throttle blade to allow additional air and the lowering of the blade in relation to the transitions slot.
Also check your float level if you have not done so. All of this needs to be done prior to considering jet changes.

Beer-30
11-22-2005, 03:44 PM
No More rebuilds, my ass. If that's anything like their old Pro-jection systems, its going to eat fuel pumps, injectors, and controllers like they are going outta style. Besides for a few more bucks you can buy, or better yet build your own multi-port system. Maybe their quality got better, because the price sure didn't.
Nope, all new stuff. Digital controller, next-gen pumps. Nice stuff. No more gumming up, blown powervalves, off-idle stumble, easy cold starts, etc., etc.

mile2885
11-22-2005, 04:14 PM
Thanks for the info gearhead. I know that the power valve was changed so that could be it. The floats were adjusted on the lake before I blew my engine. The new motor has a Comp cam 280AH so I don't think it's hot by any means. The specs are as follows:
280/288 Advertised Duration
Duration @ .050" 232/237
Valve lift .547/.547 with 1.7 rocker ratio
Lobe seperation angle 110 degrees
RPM operating range 2400-6400
I'll see what kind of vacuum I’m pulling.

Cas
11-22-2005, 06:05 PM
call
http://www.laidbackboaters.com/a539e4b0.jpg
and talk to Jesse. Send them the carb with your engine specs and they will set it up to what you have. When you get it back, bolt it on and forget about it. Tell him I send you his way. If nothing else, give him a call, he's a great guy!
As far as rebuilding it yourself, I doubt you will get as much out of your carb as a pro can for you.

YeLLowBoaT
11-23-2005, 02:18 AM
2 local shops in town here, 1 is about 150 and the other is about 175. Really with a 4160 is not that hard.

djunkie
11-23-2005, 03:13 AM
call
http://www.laidbackboaters.com/a539e4b0.jpg
and talk to Jesse. Send them the carb with your engine specs and they will set it up to what you have. When you get it back, bolt it on and forget about it. Tell him I send you his way. If nothing else, give him a call, he's a great guy!
As far as rebuilding it yourself, I doubt you will get as much out of your carb as a pro can for you.
Do you know what they charge, ball park, for a new 750 d/p marine carb for a 454 mag.?

Rexone
11-23-2005, 03:53 AM
I'd use a genuine Holley kit too if you're gonna do it yourself. They are right above these carbs are not at all tough to work on if you just take your time. You will need a bucket of carb cleaner w/basket and compressed air to do it right.

Red Horse
11-23-2005, 05:00 AM
Rebuilding is easy. Just block off a few hours, clean surface and take it apart.

Squirtcha?
11-23-2005, 06:40 AM
I was given an estimate of around $300 for a complete rebuild on a Holley 4160. Does this sound like a lot to anybody else?????
You could almost buy a new carb for that kinda money.
Rebuilding is easy. Just block off a few hours, clean surface and take it apart.
I'd use a genuine Holley kit too if you're gonna do it yourself. They are right above these carbs are not at all tough to work on if you just take your time. You will need a bucket of carb cleaner w/basket and compressed air to do it right.
Yupper, have to agree. Although I messed up my first attempt (didn't tighten the clutchhead screws enough on the metering block and one backed out). My second two (660 center squirters) went flawlessly. I did em two seasons ago and they've worked just fine. Even mod'd em with longer transfer tubes and jetable blocks so's I could jet all four corners. Not a problem if you take your time (which I obviously didn't do on the first go round).

1978 Rogers
11-23-2005, 07:43 AM
I've rebuilt mine. Give me a call. I can give you a hand. I'd have to bring some beer. Carb Rebuilds really take a lot out of you.
Chris 253-848-7329

1978 Rogers
11-23-2005, 08:01 AM
I just found the card for the guy who rebuilt mine when I first got my boat 4 years ago. His name is Lyle Winter 253-279-3088 phone.
I had a 4777 at the time. He ground down the air horn, took off the choke, sealed around the boosters (all 4 wiggled), tore it all apart, cleaned it, new gaskets yadda yadda yadda.

superdave013
11-23-2005, 08:29 AM
rebuilding a carb is one thing. But it sounds like he's switching applications too. So maybe that shop was doing more then just a basic re-build. Their set-up know how is what you are paying for.
A good carb shop should be able to get it pretty much spot on the first time. Or you can save the bucks and tune it yourself. A few trips to the lake messing with it will cost ya the 300 bones anyway.
Jones wanted over 300 bucks to take my 830's and set them up for my turbo engine. Of course I still have them sitting on the shelf deciding if I should drop 'em off or try it myself. Sure would hate to cook an engine because I skimped. But then again it hurts to spend more having someone set up the carb then I paid for it.

CrdStang
11-23-2005, 04:21 PM
Setting carbs up for a turbo setup can be a bunch more work than just a normal rebuild, $300 isn't so bad for that.
I've rebuilt at least 4 Holleys, it's really pretty simple once you get over the initial fear. I too recommend the genuine Holley rebuild kit. Non-stick bowl gaskets = good. I go a step further and coat them with Sil-Glide, a NAPA product. It won't harden, gum up or stick to anything. I've pulled bowls off my carbs after 2-3 years without tearing a gasket.
Make sure you clean out every single little passage in the metering blocks/plates/main body with carb cleaner and then (preferably) compressed air. After you've finished, you'll laugh at how easy it was..