Hvac?????

[AZKC]

Since Winter finally hit here, the newer heat pump unit i got about 2 years ago seems to be lacking on the ability to warm the house when the temps are below 45* outside. I paid for aux heating coils but I dont think they are working or are not there :mad: Its a 12.5 Carrier mounted on roof and the air mover is inside where the furnace used to be. House is only 1400 sq ft. Looking thru the paper work it describes they installed the emergncy coils and I have the paper work for them but I don't see them inside(if I'm looking in the right place). I know heat pumps don't work well below 40* but this thing is running all the time and the tstat is only set at 68*. The A/C side of it will freeze you out but the heating side blows(har har)

[Sleek-Jet]

Ending up with a little "nip-ature" in the mornings are we??? :D

[NorCal Gameshow]

AZKC check out this forum
http://www.hvac-talk.com (http://www.hvac-talk.com/vbb/forumdisplay.php?forumid=1)

[AZKC]

Ending up with a little "nip-ature" in the mornings are we??? :D
Hell no :) I don't get out of bed till BC gets the space heater going in our room :crossx:

[AZKC]

AZKC check out this forum
http://www.hvac-talk.com (http://www.hvac-talk.com/vbb/forumdisplay.php?forumid=1)
Great another forum :) :rollside:
I'll check it out thanks :)

[Sleek-Jet]

Hell no :) I don't get out of bed till BC gets the space heater going in our room :crossx:
I wasn't talking about you.... :crossx: :D

[NorCal Gameshow]

Great another forum :) :rollside:
I'll check it out thanks :)
here's a sample post from there :D
"Is the system properly charged....a majority of poor heating calls with a heat pump are due to over-charging....most likley because refrigerant charge was adjusted with a ahort-cut method in the cooling season.
Slab construction can be a pain in the heating season...but thats not the fault of the heat pump...but of the building
As to heat pumps not heating below 30F...thats crap...I have a 14 seer 7.0 HSPF heat pump that keeps my house toasty on a 18F day....as long as their is no precipitation(snow,freezing rain..ect) with very little 2nd stage operation...and my bills last year were cheap!"
__________________

[NorCal Gameshow]

if you ever do any tiling ....www.johnbridge.com ;)

[AZKC]

here's a sample post from there :D
"Is the system properly charged....a majority of poor heating calls with a heat pump are due to over-charging....most likley because refrigerant charge was adjusted with a ahort-cut method in the cooling season.
Slab construction can be a pain in the heating season...but thats not the fault of the heat pump...but of the building
As to heat pumps not heating below 30F...thats crap...I have a 14 seer 7.0 HSPF heat pump that keeps my house toasty on a 18F day....as long as their is no precipitation(snow,freezing rain..ect) with very little 2nd stage operation...and my bills last year were cheap!"
__________________
Hmmm interesting I just had a leak fixed this Summer and the guy said it took alot of freon :idea: I posted a topic over there will see how it goes.
Thanks for the tile link, but all ready done that :) Got one for removeing popcorn ceilings :boxed:

[FHI-prez]

Very easy to find out if you have the aux coils hooked up. There are two placements for your heat switch on your t-stat (if you have a thermostat capable running a heat pump, which may be the problem actually). One setting is the normal heat setting which should be labled simply "heat". The other setting will be labled "emergency heat". You can not run the heat strips and the heat pump at the same time (unless the t-stat is wired incorrectly).
Now, set the t-stat to "emergency heat" and see if hot air comes out of the register. If there is hot air coming out of the register, go outside and see if the condenser on your roof is running. The "emergency heat" setting should only allow your inside air handler with the aux heat strips to run. The outside unit should not run in this mode. If the outside unit is running when you have the t-stat set on "emergency heat" then the t-stat is wired incorrectly. If there is hot air coming out of your registers and the outside unit isn't running, then the aux heat strips are working. That reminds me, the labeling on your t-stat may be "heat" and "aux heat" instead of "emergency heat" for the latter setting. It's the same thing, just different labeling from that certain t-stat manufacturer.
Next turn the unit to the off position and let it sit for a minute or two. Then turn it to the "heat" setting and see if hot air comes out of the registers. Your compressor/condenser should be running on your roof. If both units are running and no heat comes out, you may have a stuck reversing valve. There is no easy way to tell if both are running (heat strips and heat pump) other that the air coming out of the registers will be much hotter because both the heat pump and heat strips are working in coincidence. This would be considered a fire hazard and an AC tech should be called to fix it (just wrong wiring in the t-stat again probably). Not to mention running both the heat pump and heat strips at the same time would cost a fortune in heating bills.
Hope this helps, any questions, post em here.
Nick

[FHI-prez]

It's not likely a problem with the freon charge if it is cooling well. It uses the exact same components to heat as is uses to cool, there is just a reversing valve that changes flow direction. If it has never heated well, it's most likely a incorrectly wired t-stat (very common). If the unit is over charged it would still heat and cool well, but shorten the life of the compressor itself.
Nick

[AZKC]

Very easy to find out if you have the aux coils hooked up. There are two placements for your heat switch on your t-stat (if you have a thermostat capable running a heat pump, which may be the problem actually). One setting is the normal heat setting which should be labled simply "heat". The other setting will be labled "emergency heat". You can not run the heat strips and the heat pump at the same time (unless the t-stat is wired incorrectly).
Now, set the t-stat to "emergency heat" and see if hot air comes out of the register. If there is hot air coming out of the register, go outside and see if the condenser on your roof is running. The "emergency heat" setting should only allow your inside air handler with the aux heat strips to run. The outside unit should not run in this mode. If the outside unit is running when you have the t-stat set on "emergency heat" then the t-stat is wired incorrectly. If there is hot air coming out of your registers and the outside unit isn't running, then the aux heat strips are working. That reminds me, the labeling on your t-stat may be "heat" and "aux heat" instead of "emergency heat" for the latter setting. It's the same thing, just different labeling from that certain t-stat manufacturer.
Next turn the unit to the off position and let it sit for a minute or two. Then turn it to the "heat" setting and see if hot air comes out of the registers. Your compressor/condenser should be running on your roof. If both units are running and no heat comes out, you may have a stuck reversing valve. There is no easy way to tell if both are running (heat strips and heat pump) other that the air coming out of the registers will be much hotter because both the heat pump and heat strips are working in coincidence. This would be considered a fire hazard and an AC tech should be called to fix it (just wrong wiring in the t-stat again probably). Not to mention running both the heat pump and heat strips at the same time would cost a fortune in heating bills.
Hope this helps, any questions, post em here.
Nick
Thank you, great info I'll ck that stuff tonight.
I don't think my tstat has a aux heat mode from what I remember when cycling through the different settings. But I did pay for aux strips for the air mover. I was looking at some of the info left with the unit and the wiring does seem to get pretty complicated as far as what works with what.
The biggest concern I have is it actually pushes cold/cool air out of the registers when the fan is blowing the hardest. I think I'll pick up a laser thermometer and get some accurate readings.

[FHI-prez]

Thank you, great info I'll ck that stuff tonight.
I don't think my tstat has a aux heat mode from what I remember when cycling through the different settings. But I did pay for aux strips for the air mover. I was looking at some of the info left with the unit and the wiring does seem to get pretty complicated as far as what works with what.
The biggest concern I have is it actually pushes cold/cool air out of the registers when the fan is blowing the hardest. I think I'll pick up a laser thermometer and get some accurate readings.
You mean it pushes cold/cool air when you have it on the heat cycle? Is that why you are concerned? If not, I guess I don't know why you are concerned about it pushing cold air, it's suppose to :p
If you want to know if it has the heat strips, it should be noted on the tag on the inside handler box, there will be a list of several different heat strips, and one should be checked off. To make sure, you can always pull the cover off and look above the coil, it will have electrical connections that are actually part of the heat strips themselves. Flip off the disconnect to the unit so it kills all power to the unit, there's 220v in there, and you don't want to get nailed by 220v. You may find that the terminals and the wires are in there, but the connections were never made. But like I said, I'd be willing to bet that it's a problem with the t-stat wiring, happens all the time. OR you might find out that your t-stat doesn't support a heat pump with aux strips, also very common. Good luck. Lemme know
Nick

[AZKC]

You mean it pushes cold/cool air when you have it on the heat cycle? Is that why you are concerned? If not, I guess I don't know why you are concerned about it pushing cold air, it's suppose to :p
Nick
Great we have another comedian in the house :rolleyes:
:)
I prefer it to pull cold air and push hot air like is in here all the time. LOL

[Sleek-Jet]

Flip off the disconnect to the unit so it kills all power to the unit, there's 220v in there, and you don't want to get nailed by 220v.
Nick
If you had any idea how funny this is... :D :D :D :220v: :220v:

[AZKC]

If you had any idea how funny this is... :D :D :D :220v: :220v:
What happens at the breaker box stays at the breaker box :220v: :argue: thats the unwritten rule remember.

[FHI-prez]

:220v: :D :D :220v:

[DaveTic]

Look at item #2 this should be the location of your electric heaters.
http://www.xpedio.carrier.com/idc/groups/public/documents/marketing/08fb-400-030103.pdf Sorry, I fixed the link.

[AZKC]

Thanks.
The links not working here at work, but I'll hack thru it when I get home.

[KLEPTOW]

just fixed mine last weekend, T-Stat had been wired wrong. If you pull the panel on the air handler you should be able to feel heat on the coils just as you should feel the coils get cold when you switch the a/c on. The Aux heat coils are over kill unless you have many sub 0 winter days.
I have a 2.5 ton heat pump to handle 1500SF HSE and 1700SF Garage it had no problem raising the temp in my hse from 61 to 78 in about 45min.

[AZKC]

Well if thats the case, I have a problem for sure, I'd be happy to get 70*. I'm starting to get a little :mad: at the guys that did the install they we're bragging how fast it went :yuk:
This should be an interesting phone call. "Hi you guys installed a heat pump in my house 2 years ago and it don't work right" :argue: :220v: :argue:

[Sleek-Jet]

This should be an interesting phone call. "Hi you guys installed a heat pump in my house 2 years ago and it don't work right" :argue: :220v: :argue:
Sorry Senior... no habla ingles

[AZKC]

Maybe they would have done a better job, dam krackers did my install :yuk:

[AZKC]

Well dug out the paper work and also took a peak inside.
They did install the heating coils they are up above the blower wheel its a Warren Technology PART# W4Y0802.
Read the instructions on the tstat and found how to turn on the emergency heat and did so but nothing happened other than an EH showing on the display.
Turned the heater on and felt the evap coils inside the unit and they never got even close to being warm.
Even tried A/C mode for a bit and they didn't seem to get cold either.
Other info on the unit is its a Carrier 4 ton 12.5 seer. Part # 38YRA0483 Condensor, FK4CNF005 Air Handler, and the Warren indoor coil as mentioned above. The tstat is a Totaline Star SE100 #P474-0100(Residential Non-Programmable)
Sounds like that phone call to the people that installed it is coming in the morning. Time for space heater and fireplace tonight :idea:

[slowinhavasu]

Did the system work the two previous winters ??
Check your breaker for the condenser, the outside unit.

[Holland]

Not to sound like an ass... Did you check the obvious, the filters? heat pumps are critical of air flow...
FHI Prez has good advice. Nice post Nick, but you didnt tell him to lick his fingers and grab the line side of the condensor contactor!!! :220v: :D

[1Shockwaveguy]

if you ever do any tiling ....www.johnbridge.com ;)
I have a contractor friend in CA that can lay tile like there is no tomorrow. He does kitchen/bathroom remodels, adding or taking down walls. That sorta stuff that specializes in interior detail work and is one of the best I have seen. If interested PM me and I'll shoot you his info

[NorCal Gameshow]

if the the compressor is kicking on and the evap coil is not getting cold i'd be looking at the charge. but that is seperate from the aux. heat. so the t-stat is a suspect as well as the low voltage trans.it's two years old so it prolly has a circuit board ...now your screwed :D a good manual and a volt meter you can troubleshoot it.
Too bad your dad isn't a television repairman
http://images.google.com/images?q=tbn:a_TfAX0Af-8J:www.azcentral.com/ent/gifs3/0515fasttimes-autosized141.jpg

[NorCal Gameshow]

I have a contractor friend in CA that can lay tile like there is no tomorrow. He does kitchen/bathroom remodels, adding or taking down walls. That sorta stuff that specializes in interior detail work and is one of the best I have seen. If interested PM me and I'll shoot you his info
Thanks i've got that covered, I stayed at a holiday inn express last night :D
your friend is probably extremely busy. there is always work for the good ones...

[AZKC]

if the the compressor is kicking on and the evap coil is not getting cold i'd be looking at the charge. but that is seperate from the aux. heat. so the t-stat is a suspect as well as the low voltage trans.it's two years old so it prolly has a circuit board ...now your screwed :D a good manual and a volt meter you can troubleshoot it.
Too bad your dad isn't a television repairman
http://images.google.com/images?q=tbn:a_TfAX0Af-8J:www.azcentral.com/ent/gifs3/0515fasttimes-autosized141.jpg
Interesting enough the company who installed it came out at at 15 month after install to fix the a/c side of it this last August. Had a crack at the service valve line at the suction drier. The tech said he had seen a few of those on this model. He said "Carrier has lost a little of its quaility as far as soldering goes." So the charge may be an issue but I'm still concerned about the emergency heating option that doesn't work :yuk:
As far as licking my fingers goes 110 isn't so bad but 220 I'll need to work up to :220v:

[AZKC]

Look at item #2 this should be the location of your electric heaters.
http://www.xpedio.carrier.com/idc/groups/public/documents/marketing/08fb-400-030103.pdf Sorry, I fixed the link.
Yep the heaters are there but don't seem to be working. Thanks for fixing the link :)

[AZKC]

call on your local hvac contractor ----- these types of repairs are not for the "couch" mechanic.... our trade is not like plumbing. support your local hvac contractor. why no gas (propane or natural) ???? - keyes
Oh this is way out of my league just like to be informed, as far as gas goes its about a block away. Wish I had it, prefer it for cooking way over electric. Houses built here in the late 70's were all about the sparky :rolleyes:

[AZKC]

Did the system work the two previous winters ??
Check your breaker for the condenser, the outside unit.
Sorry missed this one :rollside: The condensor was kicking on as of Sunday when I was up putting up Santa lights on the roof but I'll ck that. This is only the second Winter with this system and it really didn't work all that well last year :idea:

[NorCal Gameshow]

why no gas (propane or natural) ???? - keyes
up here nat. gas is at an average 1.75 per therm. our electric co. is a muni. with stable electric rates. when does it make sense to go to a high eff. heat pump? or a dual fuel setup?

[NorCal Gameshow]

BEST FORUM EVER!
No Doubt about it.

[FHI-prez]

Nice post Nick, but you didnt tell him to lick his fingers and grab the line side of the condensor contactor!!! :220v: :D
and make sure you're standing in a puddle of water with bare feet, it will help disperse the electricity throughout your entire torso, which should lessen the pain to the fingers :220v: :skull: The puddle that the condensate line makes should be enough to do the trick.
BTW you can always spot a seasoned sparky (electrician) by watching them cut wires, if they clinch their teeth and turn away to avoid flash burn, all the while standing on one leg....you got yourself a winner!! :220v: :p

[AZKC]

Did the system work the two previous winters ??
Check your breaker for the condenser, the outside unit.
Well there is more to the story, during the Summer we had some trouble with the system shutting down. The tstat would be out(no display) and we kinda scratched our head and chased it down to the 90amp breaker for the system being tripped. Its an older Square D(90 amp) and it was tripping under heavy usage during the day. I figured it needed replacing and started looking for one. Well seems its hard to find or obsolete. Its the double width style not just a 2 bar but all 4 bar type about 6 or 8 inch wide. I just went outside about 1/2 hour ago and reset it. The system seems to be working better but still not as expected, its at about 68 degrees with an outside temp of about 50*
We had a problem similar awhile back with the clothes dryer circuit which is the same as the water heater, when the guys replaced the water heater when they shut off the breaker to the water heater somehow only half of it kicked in and the dryer was only getting 110, I found this out after pretty much replacing all the heating parts of the dryer :rolleyes:
Still going to call out a tech but I thinking its a low amp problem, also curious whats up with the EH heating coils.
Thanks for your input folks :)

[FHI-prez]

Hey AZKC....I've figured it out....close your damn windows!! :p

[AZKC]

Well my miracle cure didn't last to long, had to get up around 2am and just shut it down. I fired it up again this morning to do some double cking and got up on the roof and the unit up there is not running with the heater on.
What!!! Close the windows :cry: no way thats why we live in the desert :p

[Sleek-Jet]

you would be suprised how economical it would be to have the gas brought to your property. it would definetley pay for itself over a (believe or not) short period of time. it wouldn't hurt to get a couple of quotes from some "honest" plumbing companies or your local "power-company". check it out, and good luck !! keyes
I seriously doubt there are even nat. gas lines in these neighborhoods. I've looked at buying a couple houses in the general area where KC resides and none have nat. gas.
I was going to put an ETS heater in and take advantage of the TOU rate from the electric company if I bought one of those houses.

[AZKC]

Actually the part of the subdivision south of Horizon Hills has it. 1 block away from me :idea:

[Sleek-Jet]

Actually the part of the subdivision south of Horizon Hills has it. 1 block away from me :idea:
Get the trencher... we'll have you cozy in no time. :D

[AZKC]

No trencher but I got 2 shovels and a pick :boxed:
Got the guys who put the unit in coming out tomorrow, and to further complete my day I have a car and a trailer to get inspected at DMV :cry:
And people wonder why I drink :rollside:

[Sleek-Jet]

No trencher but I got 2 shovels and a pick :boxed:
Got the guys who put the unit in coming out tomorrow, and to further complete my day I have a car and a trailer to get inspected at DMV :cry:
And people wonder why I drink :rollside:
Trailer??? Car???

[AZKC]

The trailer the Tahiti is on and putting tags back on the white RX-7. Both have to be inspected :cry: Since the guys not coming till 11 I have 3 hours to kill what better place than the DMV :rolleyes:

[Boatcop]

From reading all the posts, it sounds as if the thermostat is wired wrong. When I installed a new heat-pump, after being on straight A/C, I had to replace the T-stat, and following the wiring diagram, didn't have any heat. Pretty much the same symptoms you have.
Called my A/C guy, who said to jump 2 of the terminals (sorry, don't have the info on which ones with me here in Vegas). Did that, and it works perfect.
As far as the heat pump not being effective below 40 degrees, it's got down around the low 30s here in Parker, and the pump had no problem keeping the house comfy. No heat strips installed.
I'll see if I can dig up a diagram on which terminal to jump.

[Sleek-Jet]

The trailer the Tahiti is on and putting tags back on the white RX-7. Both have to be inspected :cry: Since the guys not coming till 11 I have 3 hours to kill what better place than the DMV :rolleyes:
I guess for the RX7 you gotta come to the South-side... :D Have fun. :rolleyes:

[Boatcop]

Looks like you have to jump "W" to "Y" for first stage heating (the pump) with other settings for second stage heating (the strip).
Found the info here:
http://www.hvacmechanic.com/tstatwiring.htm

[AZKC]

I guess for the RX7 you gotta come to the South-side... :D Have fun. :rolleyes:
How come? If thats the case it'll stay tagless :yuk:

[AZKC]

Looks like you have to jump "W" to "Y" for first stage heating (the pump) with other settings for second stage heating (the strip).
Found the info here:
http://www.hvacmechanic.com/tstatwiring.htm
I saw something like that in the instalation intructions, but I'm leaving it to the pros this time. But thanks for the link BC :)

[Sleek-Jet]

How come? If thats the case it'll stay tagless :yuk:
Do you have to get a new title on it??? or no??

[AZKC]

Do you have to get a new title on it??? or no??
All ready got the title but when the insurance totaled it I had to turn it into a salvage title, still a good title but its has no tags and has to be inspected to be sure it meets safety requirements.
So no I do not need a new title :boxed:

[Sleek-Jet]

All ready got the title but when the insurance totaled it I had to turn it into a salvage title, still a good title but its has no tags and has to be inspected to be sure it meets safety requirements.
So no I do not need a new title :boxed:
I'll bet ya a beer at Hooters tomorrow that they make you take it to the South Side... :D

[AZKC]

Hang on let me make a phone call, then I'll bet cha that beer :skull:

[AZKC]

Well the techs here and he's saying all the freon is gone :mad: They just fixed a leak in August and now one in November :mad: :mad: . The units not even 2 years old :argue: Is there a lemon law on Heat Pumps :yuk: