Valves and Port work

[Hotcrusader76]

So what is the popular valve brand of choice now. Who is running what and from who?
Also with the 049 heads, what sort of port work has been performed to their heads, and was it worth the extra cash? and why?
I am considering some extensive port work for my NOS destined motor, and I plan to free up some space in the exhaust area. I am using a reputable head guy for this job and I am confident that the work will be flawless.
Let's here it!

[Bahner tunnel]

An Inconel exhaust valve is almost mandatory on a high performance boat motor due to the constant high exhaust heat generated, even more so with nitrous in it's future. "Manley" valves are always a sound choice. As for the porting,I've heard that it takes something like 15-17 h.p. for every 1 mph in a jet boat. The porting will add maybe 30 h.p. and roughly 2 mph. The nitrous on the other hand will add 100-300hp. for the about the same price of port job ,you will gain alot of mph. Maybe do a little of both, have him clean up the "bowls" and put in the next bigger n.o.s. jets. :)
[ September 10, 2002, 09:51 AM: Message edited by: Bahner tunnel ]

[Hotcrusader76]

Wow...Almost $35.00 each per Exh.Valve...but then again a NOS motor isn't a cheap investment....But thanks for the "411".
I thought about upgrading the exhaust valves since the NOS is going to up the temps a little...LOL....
Thanks bro!

[565edge]

Hotcrusader76:
Wow...Almost $35.00 each per Exh.Valve...but then again a NOS motor isn't a cheap investment....But thanks for the "411".
I thought about upgrading the exhaust valves since the NOS is going to up the temps a little...LOL....
Thanks bro!Had a question for you?i have 2 carb shop 1150 dominators and when i turn my fuel pump off my rear boosters on each carb leak and fill my cylinders with gas,what would cause this?the carbs sit sideways,and it is a boosters from both pri and sec,would my float level being to high cause this?it is the side of the carb that is at the lowest point because of angle of motor.

[Hotcrusader76]

565edge:
Hotcrusader76:
Wow...Almost $35.00 each per Exh.Valve...but then again a NOS motor isn't a cheap investment....But thanks for the "411".
I thought about upgrading the exhaust valves since the NOS is going to up the temps a little...LOL....
Thanks bro!Had a question for you?i have 2 carb shop 1150 dominators and when i turn my fuel pump off my rear boosters on each carb leak and fill my cylinders with gas,what would cause this?the carbs sit sideways,and it is a boosters from both pri and sec,would my float level being to high cause this?it is the side of the carb that is at the lowest point because of angle of motor.Two things that are evident! Floats are two high and the boosters look like they might not be sealed correctly...
Look at that first!

[KC]

As I have read information regarding valves... the articles indicate that the intake valve REALLY needs to be Inconel, because it actually deforms from the constant heat.
KC

[565edge]

how do the boosters seal?

[Dennis Moore]

To Hoy Crusader 76

[Dennis Moore]

To Hotcrusader 76
I think I would start by changing the needle and seats on the carbs. If you still have a problem you may have to go to the next size smaller needle and seats. Twin dominators means four large float bowls. I am sure that your engine would work fine (flow enough fuel) with smaller needle and seats.
Sincerely
Dennis Moore

[Hotcrusader76]

Dennis Moore:
To Hotcrusader 76
I think I would start by changing the needle and seats on the carbs. If you still have a problem you may have to go to the next size smaller needle and seats. Twin dominators means four large float bowls. I am sure that your engine would work fine (flow enough fuel) with smaller needle and seats.
Sincerely
Dennis MooreHis fuel pump was turned off (not energized). This wouldn't be a needle and seat issue unless it was coming out the top of the bowls (external). If his bowls were over-flowing when energized then yes, this would be an issue because the float wouldn't be doing it's job or at least not getting the job done with the valve/s.
Second... .110 Viton Needles are good to flow up to 600HP and then you need to switch to .120 Viton, unless you run Alcohol then its a totally different ball game.
Note- Dominator fuel bowls and 4150 (center hung float bowls) are the same volume size, unless you go with the PCI units or Braswells one off's from PCI.
That's it in a nutshell... :D
[ September 11, 2002, 05:28 AM: Message edited by: Hotcrusader76 ]

[blowngas]

Hotcrusader76:
So what is the popular valve brand of choice now. Who is running what and from who?
Also with the 049 heads, what sort of port work has been performed to their heads, and was it worth the extra cash? and why?
I am considering some extensive port work for my NOS destined motor, and I plan to free up some space in the exhaust area. I am using a reputable head guy for this job and I am confident that the work will be flawless.
Let's here it!Try and find out what the total expense is gonna be and then compare that to some aftermarket heads---I took a set of mk5 heads (new) installed new valves and guides--(11/32 manely severe duty)--new springs---(roller cam)---spring cups--maching---when I got through, I had $1800 in a set of steel heads ---did the bowl and chamber cleanup myself---point of story---could have bought a nice set of aluminum heads for just a wee bit more which flow more out of the box, can be ordered with any size stem valve, valve length, spring size and pressure---bolt them on and go---As for a valves go---use at least a manley severe duty valve for a rebuild and especially if you plan on running some nitros----have fun, be safe---

[Hotcrusader76]

Yeah, Aluminum is actually what I have considered as well. Specially after all the prep work.
But my question now is.....Which holds up better with a "squezzed" 750HP++++? Iron or Aluminum?
I want to install head studs to hold everything down, but what about the Bassets? I here of clearnance issues....
Inconel valves (Severe duty) are a must, hands down!

[stressedout]

Hotcrusader76:
Yeah, Aluminum is actually what I have considered as well. Specially after all the prep work.
But my question now is.....Which holds up better with a "squezzed" 750HP++++? Iron or Aluminum?
I want to install head studs to hold everything down, but what about the Bassets? I here of clearnance issues....
Inconel valves (Severe duty) are a must, hands down!I run merlin iron heads on my 496 with a 700hp nitrous kit.
With titanium valves.
I have everything studded.
No problems clearing 2 1/2'' bassetts.
No problems with the merlins, been using them for 10 yrs.

[gnarley]

Wow, I will say that stressedout is the first one on the boards to say he is running titanium valves that I have seen since I've been here. This readers is intelligent, smart & serious if you can afford it! Titanium is way stronger than the Inconel valves & I think it handles heat even better, if I am wrong please straighten me out as I don't know alot about Inconel valves.

[Hotcrusader76]

gnarley:
Wow, I will say that stressedout is the first one on the boards to say he is running titanium valves that I have seen since I've been here. This readers is intelligent, smart & serious if you can afford it! Titanium is way stronger than the Inconel valves & I think it handles heat even better, if I am wrong please straighten me out as I don't know alot about Inconel valves.Inconnel and titanium are types of metals.
Inconnel 60% Nickel and 22% Chromium
Titantium ,45% lighter! Compared to aluminum, it is 60% heavier, and twice as strong.
[ September 11, 2002, 11:18 AM: Message edited by: Hotcrusader76 ]

[stressedout]

gnarley:
Wow, I will say that stressedout is the first one on the boards to say he is running titanium valves that I have seen since I've been here. This readers is intelligent, smart & serious if you can afford it! Titanium is way stronger than the Inconel valves & I think it handles heat even better, if I am wrong please straighten me out as I don't know alot about Inconel valves.Don't know how smart spending 1600.00 for valves is, but I do know I'm serious when it comes to building a large nitrous engine and always try to use the best parts.
The main reason for using titanium was the strength at a much lighter weight.
Actually titanium is not recomended for high hp nitrous on the exhaust valve.
They claim it won't handle the heat as well as stainless will.
I'm not convinced of this and will continue to use titanium until I melt them.

[gnarley]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Hotcrusader76:
Inconnel and titanium are types of metals.
Inconnel 60% Nickel and 22% Chromium
Titantium ,45% lighter! Compared to aluminum, it is 60% heavier, and twice as strong.
Hotcrusader76, I know about differences between the two but did not know of the make up of the Inconnel valves. I built many engines using Titanium & know of their benifits, but thanks for tring to point it out wink
[QUOTE]Originally posted by stressedout: I'm serious when it comes to building a large nitrous engine and always try to use the best parts
Yeah I recognized that & that’s why I gave the kudos. :cool: In the long run $1600 may have saved you money! But I am curious about what you said here "titanium is not recommended for high hp nitrous on the exhaust valve. They claim it won't handle the heat as well as stainless will" hmmm…..?????

[stressedout]

gnarley:
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Hotcrusader76:
Inconnel and titanium are types of metals.
Inconnel 60% Nickel and 22% Chromium
Titantium ,45% lighter! Compared to aluminum, it is 60% heavier, and twice as strong.
Hotcrusader76, I know about differences between the two but did not know of the make up of the Inconnel valves. I built many engines using Titanium & know of their benifits, but thanks for tring to point it out wink
[QUOTE]Originally posted by stressedout: I'm serious when it comes to building a large nitrous engine and always try to use the best parts
Yeah I recognized that & that’s why I gave the kudos. :cool: In the long run $1600 may have saved you money! But I am curious about what you said here "titanium is not recommended for high hp nitrous on the exhaust valve. They claim it won't handle the heat as well as stainless will" hmmm…..?????Your probaly right about saving money in the long run.
At 8500 you drop a valve and your gonna have a lot of scrap metal to get rid of.
I don't know for sure if titanium will melt down sooner than stainless, that is what we were told, they might have been trying to save us some money so we could spend more with them, I never researched this.
I think I have proved them wrong.

[gnarley]

stressedout, In the past I installed stainless & Titanium in race motors. We ran them up to around 8000 there were times when something went wrong in the valve train & all hell broke loose, quite literally! When the titanium valves broke it just seemed to do a lot more damage & big damage as compared to stainless but the titanium was better period! & you know why.

[Hotcrusader76]

gnarley:
stressedout, In the past I installed stainless & Titanium in race motors. We ran them up to around 8000 there were times when something went wrong in the valve train & all hell broke loose, quite literally! When the titanium valves broke it just seemed to do a lot more damage & big damage as compared to stainless but the titanium was better period! & you know why.Inconnel has been used for years in Ferreris (sp?) exhaust systems as well as NASA and the aerospace industry for high heat applications. Obviously they know whats best! But titanium is very strong, but under a high heat condition...Hmmmm...makes me wonder also.
But too keep it simple...If Inconnel valves work then why change.
"If it ain't broke, don't fix it!"
:D

[Bahner tunnel]

Hot Crusader , I was just looking at the Scoggin Dickey (WWW.SDPC2000.com) web site . Manley Severe Duty series valves look like they would the hot set up for the money at around $18.00 each. They seem to think that they are bullet proof.

[stressedout]

Bahner tunnel:
Hot Crusader , I was just looking at the Scoggin Dickey (WWW.SDPC2000.com) web site . Manley Severe Duty series valves look like they would the hot set up for the money at around $18.00 each. They seem to think that they are bullet proof.No valve is ''Bullet Proof'',but the manley ''Severe Duty- Pro Flo''valve is an excellent choice. They are a one peice stainless steel valve that is under cut and is lighter weight and flows better. Would be my choice on up to 500hp nitrous motors and most blown motors.
2.25 intake with a 11/32 stem will run about $21.00 each.
1.90 exhaust with a 11/32 stem will run about $22.00 each.

[565edge]

when you start running big boost or lots of nitros you need the inconnel exhaust valve,and a stainless intake,but if your going to run high rpm with a huge cam you need to run titanuim,i run the manley stainless on both intake and exhaust with a 801 lift solid roller,spin it up 7300rpm,so far no problems though. :p

[dossangers]

Ive been running the biggest nitrous system for 6 years now 50+ bottles see family of sangers v drives thers a pic of mtr. ive been using a stock ls7 for 10 years stock valves think about how long your on the button on water not long . the best parts are great if you have the money im turning 8000 rpms so ive tested the waters on parts plus if you go big nitrous you have to o ring heads! tounge and groove detoit gaskits also you have to use real cold plugs autolite 131 but chevy hi perf. is great stuff now if i was running a pro mod drag car that would be a diff story also any questions about nitrous 10000 rpm in lancaster these guys invented the systems. LOVE THAT SQUEEEEEZ! OUT.