Where to get a transom splash gaurd?

[smoked]

I have a 1980 sleekcraft tunnel jet and need a transom splash gaurd(I geuss that is what you would call it). Any help would be great, thanks.

[Liberator TJ1984]

I made mine out of a sheet of 3/16" smoked lexan, plexiglass will break.. :cool:
myself and a few others went in on a 4 x 8 sheet , it was about $ 75 and will make 4 splashgaurds approx.
there are a few here on the boards that will make you one for a few hundred bucks :rolleyes:

[Cole1313]

I have a 1980 sleekcraft tunnel jet and need a transom splash gaurd(I geuss that is what you would call it). Any help would be great, thanks.
Where are you located.

[BUSBY]

Try these guys ...
Wayne Earl Mfg Inc.
520 S Jefferson St.
Placentia Ca 92870
Phone: 714/577-0632
Fax: 714/577-0635
E-mail: wemfg@aol.com
http://www.wayneearl.com/

[smoked]

Where Are You?
Oops. My Bad. Northern California, Sacto area.

[anger management]

try TAP plastics

[sleekcrafter]

Try these guys ...
Wayne Earl Mfg Inc.
520 S Jefferson St.
Placentia Ca 92870
Phone: 714/577-0632
Fax: 714/577-0635
E-mail: wemfg@aol.com
http://www.wayneearl.com/
$350-$450 range for a splash guard
Sleek

[jimthetoolman]

Check your pm's

[YeLLowBoaT]

I would go to tap... They have very good prices. That is if your looking to go plastic, If you want it in AL I know some good fab guys.

[BigBlockBaja]

I made mine out of a sheet of 3/16" smoked lexan, plexiglass will break.. :cool:
myself and a few others went in on a 4 x 8 sheet , it was about $ 75 and will make 4 splashgaurds approx.
there are a few here on the boards that will make you one for a few hundred bucks :rolleyes:
Can someone give some pointers on making one? Took on way to much water last summer...
How does one keep it level all around the hull with the different contours?

[sleekcrafter]

Can someone give some pointers on making one? Took on way to much water last summer...
How does one keep it level all around the hull with the different contours?
I'm in need of one myself, I figure, I make a plywood template of the top of the deck radius, and one of the lower part of the gunnel, or what ever the terms is? Then fabricate spacers, and attach both the upper and lower in the proper positions. After this is completed, wrap the template with, with some thin masonite, or similar material, and there I will have a mold. Lexan would be my choice of material too, then apply heat to the material, and start forming. One shape has been achived, trim to desired shape, sand and polish edges to desired luster..Now to get off my A$$ and do it!!
Sleek

[SHIFTY]

GOT ANYMORE PICS OF YOUR BOAT, smoked?

[LUVNLIFE]

Oops. My Bad. Northern California, Sacto area.
Wayne Earl will ship. They have all the molds. They did one for me and it fit perfect. :cool:

[sanger rat]

Made mine out of thin gage sheet aluminum.

[flat broke]

I'm in need of one myself, I figure, I make a plywood template of the top of the deck radius, and one of the lower part of the gunnel, or what ever the terms is? Then fabricate spacers, and attach both the upper and lower in the proper positions. After this is completed, wrap the template with, with some thin masonite, or similar material, and there I will have a mold. Lexan would be my choice of material too, then apply heat to the material, and start forming. One shape has been achived, trim to desired shape, sand and polish edges to desired luster..Now to get off my A$$ and do it!!
Sleek
Good idea as it will give you something to clamp to as your heating the material. BUUUUT, once you skin your templates, you will have changed the dimensions of your initial template, and your "mold" will be the size of the part you need. Anything you bend around the "mold" will be larger than the area the mold was pulled from and the piece wont fit. If you are going to use this method, determine the thickness of your skin material (masonite etc)AND the thickness of your actual material, then subract that width from from the perimeter of your patterns. Once you have transfered the new smaller pattern and skinned it you'll be good to go. Then you will be molding the part back to the orriginal dimension inside the hull.
I hope that made sense,
Chris
Chris

[sleekcrafter]

Good idea as it will give you something to clamp to as your heating the material. BUUUUT, once you skin your templates, you will have changed the dimensions of your initial template, and your "mold" will be the size of the part you need. Anything you bend around the "mold" will be larger than the area the mold was pulled from and the piece wont fit. If you are going to use this method, determine the thickness of your skin material (masonite etc)AND the thickness of your actual material, then subract that width from from the perimeter of your patterns. Once you have transfered the new smaller pattern and skinned it you'll be good to go. Then you will be molding the part back to the orriginal dimension inside the hull.
I hope that made sense,
Chris
Chris
YES great observation, I think, I would have caught that on my second attempt. lol....... I forgot to mention that, subtract the thickness of your skin material and your splash guard material. thanks Chris
Sleek

[BigBlockBaja]

Well my idea was to get a piece of lexan about, I dont know, say 10" high. Measure the distance from about 3/4 way up the motor to the rear, then across the rear and back up the other side and make a piece from that measurement. Round the corners first, then find the center of the hull in the back and the center of the lexan and start a screw there. Then I was going to work my way out each side using a heat gun in the corners and fastening as I go. Im not going to worry about what the contour is doing to the height of the shield. Once its all fastened in, I was going to use a router with a jig on it to follow the hull to make the height all uniform all the way around, say 4-5". Then hit the rough edges with a torch to dull the sharp edges and give it a finished shine.
Am I on the right track here?

[flat broke]

Well my idea was to get a piece of lexan about, I dont know, say 10" high. Measure the distance from about 3/4 way up the motor to the rear, then across the rear and back up the other side and make a piece from that measurement. Round the corners first, then find the center of the hull in the back and the center of the lexan and start a screw there. Then I was going to work my way out each side using a heat gun in the corners and fastening as I go. Im not going to worry about what the contour is doing to the height of the shield. Once its all fastened in, I was going to use a router with a jig on it to follow the hull to make the height all uniform all the way around, say 4-5". Then hit the rough edges with a torch to dull the sharp edges and give it a finished shine.
Am I on the right track here?
Flame polishing acrylic is a nice way to do the edges, but it has it's drawbacks. It will leave the material succeptable to severe crazing if it comes in contact with certain chemicals... Alcohol based cleaners would be one of those chemicals. The router will leave a clean enough edge, that sanding and polishing will be good enough for what you are doing. On your bend as you go method, get a big piece of 4-6" metal pipe to distribute the weight as you bend into the corners. Otherwise you'll more than likely crease/crack the material.
Chris
Chris

[BigBlockBaja]

Flame polishing acrylic is a nice way to do the edges, but it has it's drawbacks. It will leave the material succeptable to severe crazing if it comes in contact with certain chemicals... Alcohol based cleaners would be one of those chemicals. The router will leave a clean enough edge, that sanding and polishing will be good enough for what you are doing. On your bend as you go method, get a big piece of 4-6" metal pipe to distribute the weight as you bend into the corners. Otherwise you'll more than likely crease/crack the material.
Chris
Chris
Thanks for the tips Chris. Sounds like I'm going to go with that route unless someone posts something better.

[FASTRAT]

Made mine out of thin gage sheet aluminum.
lets see some pics of urs?...i like the alum idea better than plastic or lexan
fastrat

[sanger rat]

Fastrat, I don't have a picture of mine but it pretty much looks just like Mark's. http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/220Polishedsplashguardls.jpg

[sleekcrafter]

Fastrat, I don't have a picture of mine but it pretty much looks just like Mark's. http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/220Polishedsplashguardls.jpg
Well maybe cause Polypropeleyne is upwards of $300 a sheet, I will consider now an aluminum splashguard, since I have a ready supply of materials :) What thickness you guy's using on the aluminum guards?
.063, .080, .090, .100, .125
Sleek

[sanger rat]

Sleek, It's just a splash guard. I think the stuff I used is about 18ga. :)

[sleekcrafter]

Sleek, It's just a splash guard. I think the stuff I used is about 18ga. :)
Your right, just want it to take a little abuse, it's already tight quarter in the back already, not to metion it's going to get four inches deeper :rollside:
Sleek

[sanger rat]

Start with about a 18 inch piece becuse when you bend it for the sides it will angle up. When you are all done cutting it will look kinda like a U when laid back flat.

[sleekcrafter]

Is Marks, a one piece guard, kind of looks like a two piece?
Sleek

[sanger rat]

Yes it is.

[FASTRAT]

Fastrat, I don't have a picture of mine but it pretty much looks just like Mark's. http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/220Polishedsplashguardls.jpg
thnx for the pics Sanger/Sleek...thats exactly what i wanted to see...thats the way i'm gonna go...prob a little higher tho...also...thats a "awsome" lookin' boat...100mph club?...i like the puke tank...real clean...thnx again
fastrat

[BigBlockBaja]

thnx for the pics Sanger/Sleek...thats exactly what i wanted to see...thats the way i'm gonna go...prob a little higher tho...also...thats a "awsome" lookin' boat...100mph club?...i like the puke tank...real clean...thnx again
fastrat
If your talking of Unchained's boat, its like a 113 MPH boat....

[sanger rat]

Found a picture of mine. Soon to be powdercoated blue like everything else. :) http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/1937015_16.jpg

[sleekcrafter]

Found a picture of mine. Soon to be powdercoated blue like everything else. :) http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/1937015_16.jpg
Sanger Rat, is that about 4 inches above the deck? looks Good!
Sleek

[sanger rat]

Just a little under 4 inches above the transom. And it is .061 thick. I wouldn't go any thicker, would be to hard to bend.