SBC starter question.

[UtlGoa]

I'm having a problem with my starter on my SBC. I keep breaking nose cones. I have a feeling I know what's causing this, but would like some help. Does anyone know how many shims your suppose to put between the starter and the block? It looks like the bendix shaft is way to close to the flex plate and that's what's breaking the nose cone when the starter engages the flex plate.

[Moneypitt]

Need a little more info here. Did it just start happening?, or has been an ongoing problem? You're talking about shims so I would think you're installing a new/different starter. In over 40 years of messing with this stuff I have never once had to shim a chevy starter. One key factor is the battery power. It must be a good hot battery, with plenty of CCAs. Another important piece is the brace that comes off the brush end and attaches to the block. Those 2 items, the battery and the brace will solve your problem, assuming you have the right starter nose for you application................MP

[Terminal Velocity]

Something we've always done with all our motors is install one standard 3/8" washer on the outside bolt between the block and starter. We've been using the same hamburger mini starter and flywheels since 1992 in our 500 inch ProStock and 427 Super Stock engine for the boat. Never replaced a gear or anything.
I dunno but it works and alot easier than shimming and using a dam paper clip.

[EXTREMEBOATS]

I've used the washer trick myself. It moves the teeth a bit tighter to the ringgear.. As said having good cables and the rear suport will keep your starter happier in the long run. Be sure to inspect your flywheel for worn teeth also. I have replaced many of big block noses but never a small block. Did you make any changes to timing? It could be kicking back, broke a few because of that. I have never had a problem with a mini starter, and they dont have a suport. So you might try one if your problem continues.
Mike

[UtlGoa]

Thanks everyone for the info. I have not made any changes to the car. The starter that was on the car when I bought it stripped all the teeth off the bendix. Why? you got me. So I go down and buy another starter. Bolt it into the car, turn the key two times and break the nose cone off. So I go down to the parts store and they replace the broken starter. As I'm bolting up the new starter I look at the alignment between the flex plate and the shaft the bendix slides on. I have never seen such a tight fit. It looks like when I turn the key the bendix is slamming into the flex plate causing the starter to bind, thus breaking the nose cone.
Would using the 3/8 washer move the starter away from the flex plate so the bendix and flex plate will mesh?

[Moneypitt]

Did they sell you the right starter? And yes the shaft rides very close the flexplate/flywheel. One more important area is the serrated starter bolts. The bolt shank has raised serrations which help align the starter position. Try removing the solinoid and engage the gear by hand to see how it engages the ring gear. The bendix gear being stripped off the old starter would indicate a problem, so be sure the starter is the correct one, not just because it was like the old one. I think the standard SBC # is 3510 in most rebuilders numbering systems, although I didn't see what year vehicle you're dealing with. Is it possible your flexplate is bent? ...............MP

[UtlGoa]

The car is a 1969 Camaro. The flex plate is straight. The parts store just sold me a starter that is the same as the one I took out. Man, I hate cleaning up other peoples problems when you buy something that you did not build. As for the brace on the back of the starter, it's gone, never came with the old starter.

[UtlGoa]

Okay here is another question for ya. The guy I bought the car from say's it has a SBC 400. Does the 400 and 350 use the same starter? It has a powerglide transmission also, if that makes a diffrence.

[Terminal Velocity]

i don't know the correct answer but is there a different starter based on the number of teeth on the ring gear? i just know there are two different teeth counts (sorry i don't remember exactly maybe 153 and 168(?) Actually that would be a different position of the starter aka bolt holes. hmmmm can you get some pics for us?

[Terminal Velocity]

doing a search on Checker's website they show the same part number for a chev 350 or 400 starter A3510S.

[EXTREMEBOATS]

:rolleyes: Sounds like you do have the right starter and yes the flywheel is the same amount of teeth but the 400 has a balance weight. By puting a washer on the out side bolt you move the gears closer. Inside moves them apart. The space between the gears when engauged as about .060. And yes its not easy to messure. Go with removing the solinoid and engauge the bendix by hand. Other then them lining up they should engauge easily. I am still trying to figure out how anything has changed. I have had a few starters over the years that did'nt seem to line up as the old one. Most remanufactuers just glass bead the old nose and replace the bushing. And even I have turned in a questionable core's or two... So try to feel it out and go from there.
Mike

[HOSS]

I had a SBC that I actually had to grind some of the mounting face off to make it fit closer. The correct depth is to use a paper clip and bent out, the rod should fit between the flywheel and bendix gear. In between the teeth grooves.

[Earl]

This is a spamer. Your Camero needs a Tilton mini starter, it goes with the Tilton triple disc clutch, bellhousing and new super T10 with Hurst speedway linkage. I also have the sbc to go with this. It is dry sumped (Avaid pump and pan) LA Billet crank, Carillo Rods, Isky roller rockers, girdles and so on. Less than thirty laps on everything. Make me an offer.

[Havasu47]

If the flywheel teeth are damaged make sure you replace it no matter what you decide to do with the starter. It will continue to destroy starters.