Place Diverter Problems

[Waist Deep]

On my Place Diverter, I have been having a problem with it not activating either up or down. I've checked the ground on it and checked the hyd fluid as well. activation is by a button control on the wheel. Any suggestions what to try?
It has worked at times when I loosen the lines and let fluid come out before the piston.

[cave]

May be the diode. Mine failed a few times. Now I just run the toggle. Here is a link to RM.
Your solenoids may be stuck.
Diode kit from Rex Marine (http://www.rexmar.com/page42.html)
If your pump is still within the 3 year warranty period you could email MJ Thomas (MJThomas@bennetttrimtabs.com). Helped me through 2 pumps. Great Customer Service

[WHATA SQUIRT]

check the selinoids...maybe stuck ??

[Waist Deep]

Not to sound like an idiot, but how do I check to see if the solenoids are stuck?
Thank You

[Waist Deep]

well, I found it works when I loosen the hyd lines. Loosen one for up, then tighten, loosen the other for down.
Sound familiar?

[cave]

When mine did that MJ Thomas said to send the pump in. Are you within the 3 year warranty period?
Wait, do you have at least 12Volts? If not the pump will not function. The pump wont work at 11.999 volts.

[Waist Deep]

The pump is 8 years old. I'll check the voltage.
Thank You

[Waist Deep]

Checked the voltage @ the switch and when I activate either up or down, I get about 6v. All other instruments, etc are at 12v

[squirt]

I ain't spamming just trying to help. Rex also carries these
Banderlog Diverter Relay (http://www.banderlog.com/products/powerRelays/diverterPowerRelay/diverterPowerRelay.html)
Don

[Waist Deep]

Not taken as Spam, thank you for the advice.

[james]

On my Place Diverter, I have been having a problem with it not activating either up or down. I've checked the ground on it and checked the hyd fluid as well. activation is by a button control on the wheel. Any suggestions what to try?
It has worked at times when I loosen the lines and let fluid come out before the piston.
I have Phil Bergeron do all my work. I only had my boat out one time and he told me about a relay that he makes at his shop. He installed one for me, and what a difference. I guess what it does is put less work on the pump and has a quicker response. I tried it out and It made a huge difference. Give him a call 480-834-1531 tell him James sent you.

[Waist Deep]

Thank you James. I will call today.

[Waist Deep]

Going back to the power issue, does it seem as though putting a relay in will increase the voltage coming out of the front switch?
Just to be sure, my batteries read 12v.
All my gauges read 12 v
When I put the meter on the peg behind the dash coming from the diverter switch and hit the switch, it reads 6v. Why would I only be getting 6v at the switch going back. I would think the power decrease would be at the pump, not right at the switch.
Thanks

[cave]

try jumping the battery with your truck/car and then hit the switch. My battery also read 12V but it was not be constant. I bought a new Optima and it still didnt activate my diverter. Once I started the boat the diverter worked. I cant get my truck next to the boat so I had to start it in the back yard. I ran water from 2 hoses one to the pump intake and to the engine.
James, You in Mesa? What you got mank?

[inwo]

Going back to the power issue, does it seem as though putting a relay in will increase the voltage coming out of the front switch?
Just to be sure, my batteries read 12v.
All my gauges read 12 v
When I put the meter on the peg behind the dash coming from the diverter switch and hit the switch, it reads 6v. Why would I only be getting 6v at the switch going back. I would think the power decrease would be at the pump, not right at the switch.
Thanks
Does dash still read 12 vdc when reading 6 at switch?
If yes then it is not pulling battery voltage down. (good)
You will have to keep metering further back to the battery, one switch, fuse, or connection at a time until you find the full 12 vdc.
If you determine that the wire from the battery to the switch is dropping the 6 volts, then the load on the switch is to high (short or locked rotor) or the wire gauge is too small.
Ideally black lead of meter should be right on battery or at least a known good ground to make sure the drop is not on the ground side.

[TIMINATOR]

Most of the older hyd divertor setups are voltage sensetive. The factory setup uses the voltage at the accessory wire to provide power, for everything. The easy way is to add a #6 or #8 wire for the main power from the battery to provide less voltage drop or setup a relay (autozone for $12.00) to supply power from the battery to the divertor power unit when activated. The big + feed wire will make your gauges read properly too! also everything that draws off of the ignition switch. Replacing the wire is the best route, and keep it as short as practicle. Also, many of the divertor installations I have seen don't shorten the harness, they just loop it up and stuff it under the dash or the seat, if you shorten it, it will have less voltage drop. TIMINATOR