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75MillerJet
06-06-2006, 09:32 PM
I'm goisng to attempt to install the drainback lines from the rear of the valve covers to the oil pan as oil pressure has been an issue for my 455. My pan right now is a 10 qt without the windage tray and I think its a good idea to invest in a new pan that has one. So, i'm thinking about doing this modification on my current pan first and see what the result is and then depending on the results purchase a new pan with a windage tray. I saw somewhere on here that someone did this and it worked out good. What are correct steps/precautions to take while attempting this? Thanx in advance.

'75 Miller
06-06-2006, 09:58 PM
Old Guy here on this site has done this to his 455. Shoot him a pm. Before my 455 took a crap I was gonna do the drainbacks and he was really helpful.
Matt

'75 Miller
06-06-2006, 10:07 PM
Forgot to ask... has anyone turned you onto www.realoldspower.com yet? There's tons of useful info to be found there for sure.
Any pictures of your Miller yet?
Matt

75MillerJet
06-06-2006, 10:10 PM
Forgot to ask... has anyone turned you onto www.realoldspower.com yet? There's tons of useful info to be found there for sure.
Any pictures of your Miller yet?
Matt
ya i've been on there a couple times haven't been back lately tho... I just have to add the rub rails and some pinstriping and she'll be ready to show... maybe i can post a sneak peek tho :)

FASTRAT
06-06-2006, 11:11 PM
I'm going to attempt to install the drainback lines from the rear of the valve covers to the oil pan as oil pressure has been an issue for my 455.
where did the drain back lines go before?...besides those lines...do u have breathers on ur valve covers?
fastrat

75MillerJet
06-08-2006, 08:27 AM
where did the drain back lines go before?...besides those lines...do u have breathers on ur valve covers?
fastrat
i don't have any drainback lines on the motor currently... will i need to do something with the breathers if i do this mod?

Taylorman
06-08-2006, 08:46 AM
I just did this last week on my heads. You need a 3/8 NPT tap and a 37/64 drill bit. You also need to weld in the pan some steel -8 fittings to attach the lines to. If you know how to drill and tap its easy, just requires the heads to be pulled. The new ***boat mag. has the exact measurement where to tap the heads. You need to tap the heads, not the valve covers.
Get a Moroso 10 qt jet boat oil pan and the correct pickup.
Heres a pic of my oil pan fittings. Its an 8 qt pan.
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b334/vidrinek/Boat/DCP_5961.jpg

FASTRAT
06-08-2006, 09:12 AM
I just did this last week on my heads. You need a 3/8 NPT tap and a 37/64 drill bit. You also need to weld in the pan some steel -8 fittings to attach the lines to. If you know how to drill and tap its easy, just requires the heads to be pulled. The new ***boat mag. has the exact measurement where to tap the heads. You need to tap the heads, not the valve covers.
Get a Moroso 10 qt jet boat oil pan and the correct pickup.
Heres a pic of my oil pan fittings. Its an 8 qt pan.
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b334/vidrinek/Boat/DCP_5961.jpg
Taylor...
whats the purpose for this mod?...is it only for Olds mtrs? & what does it accomplish?
fastrat

Taylorman
06-08-2006, 09:15 AM
Taylor...
whats the purpose for this mod?...is it only for Olds mtrs? & what does it accomplish?
fastrat
Olds motors have really small oil drain holes in the heads. You add these drain lines to help the oil drain back to the pan so you don't fill up the valve covers with oil and starve the oil pump.

75MillerJet
06-08-2006, 09:23 AM
I just did this last week on my heads. You need a 3/8 NPT tap and a 37/64 drill bit. You also need to weld in the pan some steel -8 fittings to attach the lines to. If you know how to drill and tap its easy, just requires the heads to be pulled. The new ***boat mag. has the exact measurement where to tap the heads. You need to tap the heads, not the valve covers.
Get a Moroso 10 qt jet boat oil pan and the correct pickup.
i've heard of people putting the lines from the valve covers to the pan tho... what is the advantage to tapping into the heads cuz i'm not exactly 100% comfortable with pulling the heads and tapping them

Taylorman
06-08-2006, 10:08 AM
i've heard of people putting the lines from the valve covers to the pan tho... what is the advantage to tapping into the heads cuz i'm not exactly 100% comfortable with pulling the heads and tapping them
By going to the valve covers, the oil level has to rise to the point were the line is in the valve cover. That means there will be alot of oil in the valve covers before the lines start to drain oil. By tapping the heads you are adding basically another drain path where the oil naturally drains. By tapping the heads, the added drain is right next to the existing oil drain hole in the heads. Find someone to help you do it, not hard at all.

FASTRAT
06-08-2006, 10:10 AM
i've heard of people putting the lines from the valve covers to the pan tho... what is the advantage to tapping into the heads cuz i'm not exactly 100% comfortable with pulling the heads and tapping them
as u stated above...ur gonna try this mod useing ur existing pan?...that tells me the mtr is out of the boat?...if so, just pull the heads & drill & tap them like suggested...u will be better off in the long run & while u got the pan off just weld in a baffle/windage tray...not that hard...its 10 qt already...why buy a new one!!...just my .02 cents
Taylor...
thnx for that info
fastrat

Taylorman
06-08-2006, 10:17 AM
Read the article about Olds motors in the new ***boat, it tells it all.

75MillerJet
06-08-2006, 03:15 PM
Read the article about Olds motors in the new ***boat, it tells it all.
k thanx guys

Old Guy
06-08-2006, 06:19 PM
If you're really not comfortable pulling heads and welding oil pans, there is an alternative.
Here's the front of my 10 quart oil pan.
http://files.triton.net/old1/oil_ret_frnt.jpg
The fittings are NOT welded to the pan. They are "bulkhead" fittings. Basically, like a large bolt and nut with a hole through it. The hole comes with a pipe thread. I used 3/8" NPT. 5/8" hose fits over 3/8" pipe. I use fuel hose so the oil won't screw it up. All fittings except bulkheads are stainless pipe.
Here's the tapped hole in the rear of my cyl head.
http://files.triton.net/old1/drain2.jpg
You can see that if you put a drain in the valve cover, some oil will need to accumulate before it will reach the drain hole. HOWEVER, considering the fact that the motor will likely be installed on a slight angle (rear lower), also most boats run "bow high", and the acceleration of the boat will cause the oil to be concentrated at the rear of the valve covers, I would be surprised if much more than a pint of oil would collect before going out a valve cover drain.
Would it be pretty? No, it would probably be pretty ugly. I wouldn't be afraid to try it. Somebody around here did it, and said it worked fine. I don't remember who it was. (Hell I'm old, give me a break)
old
Oops, almost forgot. The "Olds article" in Hot Boat mag. is awesome. It would be worth a lot to you to have and read and KEEP for future reference.

n8dawg
06-08-2006, 07:15 PM
never heard of drain back lines from the valve cover before. Your best bet is cut the heads!

Taylorman
06-08-2006, 07:34 PM
I think the pumpkins put the drains in the valve covers. Do it right do it once. Pull the heads and tap them. Not hard at all. I just went take a couple pics of mine that i just completed. Dam i need some new headers.
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b334/vidrinek/Boat/100_1250.jpg
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b334/vidrinek/Boat/100_1251.jpg
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b334/vidrinek/Boat/100_1252.jpg
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b334/vidrinek/Boat/100_1253.jpg

El Prosecutor
06-08-2006, 09:04 PM
Tman, that is very nice work. I think I read in another thread that you bought a tool for bending the tubing? Anyway, it came out great. I bought Timinator's article and am saving it for when I have time and money - right now time is for lake and money is for gas, but eventually I hope it will look pretty close to yours.

Taylorman
06-09-2006, 04:03 AM
Thanks. Yes i bought a tubing bender and a flaring tool for stainless tubing. I like the hard line but it is very time consuming to make it come out perfect. I think that one line in the picture is about an hour to make fit just right.

75MillerJet
06-09-2006, 09:38 AM
looks good... as for a windage tray, can i order one and bolt it or weld it in to my current pan? also anyone know of a temporary fix for the oil spitting out the breather problem so i can just enjoy my boat this summer and save the labor for winter?

NautiII
06-09-2006, 10:29 AM
I also put drainbacks from my heads to my oil pan. it was easy!! I did not pull my heads off either. I was just VERY cafefull and plugged the current hole before I drilled, then vacuumed it all out. I used -8 lines. I have recently been told that -10 would work better, to allow more oil to drain quicker. not sure if it would make a huge difference or not. depends on how hard you run your motor. no need to use oil restrictors if you do this. my motor runs great, no oiling problems. GOOD LUCK!!!