Intake Setback Pics

[GUGS102]

I've been meaning to throw these up here for a while but have not had time.
We recently did a 4" repair on a 79 challenger and a 2" set back and repair on my hallett.
The challenger has the pump set back 4". When they did the initial set back, they laid ONE ply on the bottom of the boat, welded a plate to the front of the intake to take up the gap, set the intake and used foam to take up the gap area. Needless to say, not a stellar installation, (done by well know shop). Eventually the intake epoxy gave way and started to leak around the foam. Since there was no structural tie between the foam and hull, this was a problem waiting to happen. There are pics of the challenger repair.
AS it was
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/2928P4080627.JPG
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/2928P4160633.JPG
After repair and before speed coat and intake etc. installed
The Hallett was one we did start to finish. My hull is heavy and extremely nose heavy. We moved the intake and motor back 2"to help offset the CG of the boat. Here are the pics of that repair and final result.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/2928P4280647-med.JPG
This is the HAllett after cutting out the hull
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/2928P4280651.JPG
This is a shot of the initial prep and you can see the scarf cut to overlap the plies without creating a lump. This is also a stronger bond between the hull and the repair
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/2928P4280652.JPG
This is an in process shot to give you an idea. We only set 5-6 plies at a time and prepped each surface before adding anymore

[GUGS102]

http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/2928P4290655-med.JPG
This is a shot to show the porus material that catches the extra resin when under vaccum and shows the sniffer which connects to a vaccum pump
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/2928P4290673.JPG
This shows the repair under vacuum, you can see how the vacuum pulls the plies together and pushes out any excess resin. There are several layers of special porus and non porus material under the vacuum bag, but I forgot to take pictures. :mad:
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/2928P4290674-med.JPG
With a vacuum pump and a heat lamp, we can eliminate atmospheric conditions and manipulate the kick of the material
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/2928P4290676.JPG
This is a close up of the repair area (top). You can also see the tool (bottom) which we made by vaccum bagging several plies to the bottom of the boat to ensure we had the contour of the hull correct
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/2928P4290675.JPG
This is a shot of the buildup to match the thickness of the hull. Next step is to add the scarf cut layers for the final vacuum bag
We also filled the holes, redrilled the new ones and once the intake was installed we filled the countersunk holes from under neath to create as smooth a surface as possible.

[MudPumper]

No red x's here.

[GUGS102]

I was hoping to get some feedback. This was the first time we have done this repair. Although I'm not looking for the "you're an idiot, what were you thinking" if I've missed something that may become a safety issue I'd like to know.
Thanks,
Gugs

[poncho-pwr]

Let me be the first to say that I am not a glass man, but I like the fact that you are using the vacuum bagging technique. It really makes sense to me to do it that way if you can. It would be cool to have a whole boat that was built vacuum bagged. I know some of the racing yachts do it that way $$$$$$$$$$.

[Back Forty]

I can say that the vacuum bag technique is the way to go. I got bit recently on what should have been and extremely nice piece of work on an intake area. florida humidity spent some money for me although I blame myself. Nice work.

[lilrick]

I was hoping to get some feedback. This was the first time we have done this repair. Although I'm not looking for the "you're an idiot, what were you thinking" if I've missed something that may become a safety issue I'd like to know.
Thanks,
Gugs
when we did my setback, the fiberglasser glassed in the bottom from stringer to stringer and two feet in front of the intake. He layed large sheets of glass to strengthen the whole area around the pump and filled in the entire pump area creating a new bond between . Because the pump setback will be less supported and will create leverage on the pump /hull relationship this area should not be comprimised. I had to cut a new hole in the bottom of the boat , but it was all newfiberglass that was feathered into the old glass.

[wsuwrhr]

bump for the newbie

[GUGS102]

Here is the set back we did. One two inch and one four inch. Both are solid as can be. One has transom plates and the 2" has a deep fiberglass transom housing.
Hope this helps...
Gugs
Couple of tips.
When whetting out the glass and resin. Place the fiberglass between clear plastic. A good grade trash bag works well. Then take a bondo spreader and get as much of the resin to the out sides as possible. The srength is in the material not the resin.
Draw your pattern onto the plastic and cut out the pattern after you have spread the resin. This way you can peel one side of the plastic, place the material into the patch and then peel the other layer back, not nearly as messy.
Here are a couple more shots
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/P4290660.JPG
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/P4290658.JPG

[holorinhal]

Hey Gugs
In this picture http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/2928P4160633.JPG Is the intake cutout ,cut all the way trough the transome? If so have you had any problems withit holding up,leaking or cracking?
Reason for asking is that i am doing a setback and I am breaking through the transome.
The only thing is that I am also doing a pump swap,fron jaquzi to berk,and I glassed in the entire intake hole.
I know it was some what of a waste of matrial but it gives me a fresh start. Besides I used mostly scrap material as most of it will be cut out anyways...Hal

[GUGS102]

This hull already was cut through. The original expoxy was severly cracked and leaking like a sob. This set up has a pump brace across the bearing housing and on to both stringers.(we found that the impeller was not balanced and this may have added to the cracking due to vibration)
On the back it has the traditional upper and lower transom plates. To date we have not had any issues after our repair. My opinion would be not to cut it all the way through, especially if it is a thin transom. This is a medium challenger weighing in aroung 450-500lbs. The transom is only 3/8" maybe.
Having said that, this hull runs very dry with the pump that far out and the set up is dialed in. We have a 496 roller motor going in this week and expect to see some good gains over the mild 461 that was in it. Having the transom plate with well spaced hardware certainly helps to hold it all together.