Overheating problem...help!!!

[AngryJosh]

I have a 440 Mopar in my Jetboat with a berkley pump. I have two temp gauges down towards the bottom of the block because there are no ports in the heads. The gauges are electronic type. Boat runs good and launches hard, but after a few minutes I notice that the temp gauge on the right begins a slow climb up to about 180, and sort of hovers there until I decide to idle around, then its goes right for hot. It will peg past 240 within a couple of minutes. The left temp guage doesnt move past 140. Truthfully I cant tell if it moves at all, as it might not even work...but the right bank temp gauge says I'm running very hot. After the guage gets to about 220-240 I can get on plane and be cruising around 3000 rpm's and the temp will start to slowly come down, but never below 180-200.
My system is plumbed so that I have the inlet from the pump, it then goes into an adjustable valve like a garden spicket so I can adjust the flow of water, it then t's off, and one line feeds the engine and the other feeds the headers. Then I have my hot water return lines that take used water and dump it out the back. While running at idle I checked and I have water coming out of the headers and flowing out of the dump out back.
Any suggestions?

[Mr. Crusader 83]

its sounds like you dont have it plumb right. what exhaust are you running?

[NautiTwins]

I have a 440 Mopar in my Jetboat with a berkley pump. I have two temp gauges down towards the bottom of the block because there are no ports in the heads. The gauges are electronic type. Boat runs good and launches hard, but after a few minutes I notice that the temp gauge on the right begins a slow climb up to about 180, and sort of hovers there until I decide to idle around, then its goes right for hot. It will peg past 240 within a couple of minutes. The left temp guage doesnt move past 140. Truthfully I cant tell if it moves at all, as it might not even work...but the right bank temp gauge says I'm running very hot. After the guage gets to about 220-240 I can get on plane and be cruising around 3000 rpm's and the temp will start to slowly come down, but never below 180-200.
My system is plumbed so that I have the inlet from the pump, it then goes into an adjustable valve like a garden spicket so I can adjust the flow of water, it then t's off, and one line feeds the engine and the other feeds the headers. Then I have my hot water return lines that take used water and dump it out the back. While running at idle I checked and I have water coming out of the headers and flowing out of the dump out back.
Any suggestions?
Open the red handle valve all the way. If that does not work, check the silver T, coming off the pump, in front of the block. There is a ball and spring in there. Sometimes if you suck something up it will make the ball stick. Also check the connection on the brown wire on the drivers side of the block and make sure it is tight. DO NOT CLOSE THE VALVE TO GET THE MOTOR HOT>
The only other thing that I can think of is that one of the water lines might be clogged. If this is the case take of the side that is getting hot going into the block and turn the boat on, you should have good pressure going through the line. If there is not then you know there is a clog.
We have run our boat in 110 degree heat and never had it get hot. When we idled through the narrows at Naci is the only time it ever got hot and I had to shut it down and wait for it to cool down. But the idle was like 30 minutes long with 4 people and a dog.
Hope this helps.

[AngryJosh]

Rewarder headers.

[NautiTwins]

I have a 440 Mopar in my Jetboat with a berkley pump. I have two temp gauges down towards the bottom of the block because there are no ports in the heads. The gauges are electronic type. Boat runs good and launches hard, but after a few minutes I notice that the temp gauge on the right begins a slow climb up to about 180, and sort of hovers there until I decide to idle around, then its goes right for hot. It will peg past 240 within a couple of minutes. The left temp guage doesnt move past 140. Truthfully I cant tell if it moves at all, as it might not even work...but the right bank temp gauge says I'm running very hot. After the guage gets to about 220-240 I can get on plane and be cruising around 3000 rpm's and the temp will start to slowly come down, but never below 180-200.
My system is plumbed so that I have the inlet from the pump, it then goes into an adjustable valve like a garden spicket so I can adjust the flow of water, it then t's off, and one line feeds the engine and the other feeds the headers. Then I have my hot water return lines that take used water and dump it out the back. While running at idle I checked and I have water coming out of the headers and flowing out of the dump out back.
Any suggestions?
I guess I missed a part. After a few minutes it is getting hot???? What is the timing set at? Did you pull the water lines??

[460 jus getn it]

I have a 440 Mopar in my Jetboat with a berkley pump. I have two temp gauges down towards the bottom of the block because there are no ports in the heads. The gauges are electronic type. Boat runs good and launches hard, but after a few minutes I notice that the temp gauge on the right begins a slow climb up to about 180, and sort of hovers there until I decide to idle around, then its goes right for hot. It will peg past 240 within a couple of minutes. The left temp guage doesnt move past 140. Truthfully I cant tell if it moves at all, as it might not even work...but the right bank temp gauge says I'm running very hot. After the guage gets to about 220-240 I can get on plane and be cruising around 3000 rpm's and the temp will start to slowly come down, but never below 180-200.
My system is plumbed so that I have the inlet from the pump, it then goes into an adjustable valve like a garden spicket so I can adjust the flow of water, it then t's off, and one line feeds the engine and the other feeds the headers. Then I have my hot water return lines that take used water and dump it out the back. While running at idle I checked and I have water coming out of the headers and flowing out of the dump out back.
Any suggestions?Well where to start. First off you say you have it T'd and one going into the block and one to the headers. Well from that t you need both lines going into the motor thats why one temp sender reads fine and the other one reads hot. Sounds to me that only one side of the motor is getting water. Your lines to the headers sould come from the t stat housing.

[NautiTwins]

Well where to start. First off you say you have it T'd and one going into the block and one to the headers. Well from that t you need both lines going into the motor thats why one temp sender reads fine and the other one reads hot. Sounds to me that only one side of the motor is getting water. Your lines to the headers sould come from the t stat housing.
There are actuall two T's. One going into the block the other coming out and feeding the headers. Then the third line dumps out the back.

[Jordy]

While running at idle I checked and I have water coming out of the headers and flowing out of the dump out back.
That's the makings of a whole new problem there. You want the headers dry at idle or you're going to have to start dealing with milkshake looking oil due to reversion.

[NautiTwins]

That's the makings of a whole new problem there. You want the headers dry at idle or you're going to have to start dealing with milkshake looking oil due to reversion.
Again, I would say to check the T-Valve. It is pressure controlled, meaning that at idle the headers should be dry. When you hit around 1500 rpms you should see water coming out of the headers. That is what the t-valve is used for. As the pressure from the pumps builds with RPMS it opens the valve and allows water to reach the headers.

[Jordy]

Again, I would say to check the T-Valve.
Even better than that, CHUCK the t-valve, throw the Banderlog jobber on there and never have to worry about it again. :D :D :D

[NautiTwins]

Even better than that, CHUCK the t-valve, throw the Banderlog jobber on there and never have to worry about it again. :D :D :D
What a Banderlog Jobber?????
The logs??? This hull is to skinny in the back to put logs on.

[Jordy]

What a Banderlog Jobber?????
The Banderlog Valve. It runs off the tach lead for your distributor and has a little electronic valve that opens and closes based on your RPM, no more reversion problems, no more messing with the t-valve. Very easy!!! :D

[NautiTwins]

The Banderlog Valve. It runs off the tach lead for your distributor and has a little electronic valve that opens and closes based on your RPM, no more reversion problems, no more messing with the t-valve. Very easy!!! :D
That sounds cool

[SmokinLowriderSS]

Sounds to me like not enopugh water flow, as well as not controlled right. Am I right in understanding you have over transom injected (not jacketed headers? If so, they should get NO WATER at idle, or you risk the engine inhaling some, followed by damage. My 454 idles at 180 degrees, all day long, as soon as I throttle up any at all, it runs 130 to 140, cruizing to WFO, no change. I had been running logs but switcherd to thru-transom jacketed headers this past winter.

[AngryJosh]

They are regular headers. I'll tinker with it more. I might not have it plumbed right. On my way up to Nac I'm stopping by JetBoat Performance. Tom said he could lend me a hand figuring this out. I went over to a place here near where I live, but ended up replacing some wires and replacing both sending units. We put a hose in the jet and water to the motor, but couldnt get either gauge to read, even though his laser thermometer was reading 140 on both banks. Maybe the gauge was reading inacurately? I'll keep you all posted. Thanks for all the responses

[DUCKY]

Your problem is that you are dumping off cooling water before it ever goes to the motor, and at idle you don't have any water pressure in the block. Water and electricity are alike in that they will both take the path of least resistance. Do you think that water would rather be pressurized into a hot engine, or be dumped right back into the lake? You should have all of the cooling water going into the engine, and if it only has one outlet, then put a tee on it there and run one line to the dump fitting and one to the tee-valve for your headers. If there are two outlets then run one to the dump and one to the header valve. You can then adjust that gate valve near the pump for about 180 degrees during an extended idle period, and when you do so, start with it full open and only close it 1/8 turn at a time waiting several minutes between adjustments. This method should net you 180-190 at idle and 130-150 at cruise while also sufficiently controlling your header water. At idle, you should have no water coming from the headers, and only a mist and steam running across the lake. If you have raw water coming from the headers at cruise speed, it's too much.

[LakesOnly]

My system is plumbed so that I have the inlet from the pump, it then goes into an adjustable valve like a garden spicket so I can adjust the flow of water, it then t's off, and one line feeds the engine and the other feeds the headers. Then I have my hot water return lines that take used water and dump it out the back. Any suggestions?
Here is one simple way, described below:
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/350New_Motor_Overhead.jpg
The water line from the jet pump tee's off under the front of the engine and feeds the cylinder block on both the passenger and driver's side cylinder banks (the red hoses going to the waterpump holes in the block).
Water then circulates through the engine along the same path taken by most V8 automotive engines of the era.
The heated water exits at the thermostat housing via the dump line (the red hose at the thermostat housing).
The engine-heated water is also fed to the OT header's water trees via the T-Valve at the thermostat housing (the black Tee fitting at the thermostat housing with the metal tubing taking the water to the headers on either side).
This is the least convoluted method; it can get more extravagant from here...but the basic principle of proper circulation should be clear in this picture and description.
Hope this helps,
LO

[DUCKY]

That's exactly what I said... Hope the picture helps this guy. That poor 440 is gonna crap itself if he continues to run it that hot....
BTW, nice rigging job, looks clean.

[kp216]

Here is one simple way, described below:
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/350New_Motor_Overhead.jpg
Paul - That is one sweet lookin' blue oval mill :cool:

[El Prosecutor]

What are the fat braided lines coming off the valve covers for?

[Youngblood]

What are the fat braided lines coming off the valve covers for?
crankcase vents and they run to the puke tank you can barely see behind the second carb.

[moparjet]

DOES YOU WATER CROSS OVER LOOK LIKE THIS......INCOMMING WATER TO THE 2 BOTTOM AND OUT GOING OUT THE TOP 2 LINES....ONE TO HEADERS AND OTHER TO DUMP....GATE VALVE ON THE IN AND DUMP LINES TO ADJUST PRESSUREhttp://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/3359100_0134.JPG http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/3359100_0148.JPG

[NautiTwins]

DOES YOU WATER CROSS OVER LOOK LIKE THIS......INCOMMING WATER TO THE 2 BOTTOM AND OUT GOING OUT THE TOP 2 LINES....ONE TO HEADERS AND OTHER TO DUMP....GATE VALVE ON THE IN AND DUMP LINES TO ADJUST PRESSUREhttp://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/3359100_0134.JPG http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/3359100_0148.JPG
The water comes into the block on the bottom holes????? And out the top ones??????
Josh this could be the reason! Mopar are you positive?

[moparjet]

100%....been Runnig It That Wat For 3 Years Sofar With Not 1 Problem.....runs 180 At Idle And 140 To 150 Wot ....headers Start At 2000 Rpms

[wrenchdaddy]

Im just giving it a long shot here but there could be sand stuck in that side of the block causing lack of water flow. You'd be suprised how much sand a jet can suck up even when you don't run it in the shallow. Pull the block drain plugs on the side and see if anything comes out. Not sure where they would be at on a 400.

[AngryJosh]

This all makes sense. I think I have it plumbed correctly, but was allowing way to much water into the headers at idle. I will test it tomorrow

[AngryJosh]

Thanks for everyones input... Spent 3 days on the water and didnt have a single problem. I had way to much water going to the headers which cut down on my available water to the engine. Ran between 120-140 degrees, even idling through the narrows. Thanks again!!!!!!!!!!