New Raylar 600 Pics w/Manifold and TB

[26Daytona]

Just got the intake today and sat it on the motor before I had to go back to work. It looks pretty nice with the polished throttle body. This thing is going to suck to keep clean running around up here in the salt water.

[Jyruiz]

That looks awesome.

[phebus]

That looks awesome. Even though you are unhappy with the build and service you have received, I'm waiting to see how happy you are with the performance.

[26Daytona]

That looks awesome. Even though you are unhappy with the build and service you have received, I'm waiting to see how happy you are with the performance.
I was pissed the other day, after I had some time to settle down I realized shit happens. Ray is a good guy, just very busy and I think some times things fall by the wayside. But none of us are perfect.

[RiverDave]

Well I'm definately sounding like a ***** for Dri Wash.. LOL
But it does work magic on polished parts without scratching the hell out of them. :)
Motor looks good!
RD

[26Daytona]

[QUOTE=RiverDave]Well I'm definately sounding like a ***** for Dri Wash.. LOL
I need to get some of that !

[Outnumbered]

What the ****? We can't ****ing say ***** on here now? Shit!

[Outnumbered]

Looks bad ass...http://www.***boat.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=14763

[26Daytona]

Looks bad ass...http://www.***boat.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=14763
Thank you for moving that picture, I don't know how.
Damn, it's so nice to finally have a motor that does my boat and stereo justice. I can't wait to get it on the water !

[Sigus]

your intake is aluminum. If it is why not have it clear anodize coated. It will save you hours of rubbing later. Unless you like rubbing it out!

[26Daytona]

your intake is aluminum. If it is why not have it clear anodize coated. It will save you hours of rubbing later. Unless you like rubbing it out!
I love rubbing it out, but that's not the issue here ! I never thought of that, I'll drop it off at the body shop that painted my engine.

[INSman]

Some billet pullies would set that off nicely, check with Franky here on the boards as he made 2 beautiful sets for my Raylar 600's
Here is what they look like, although we were missing (2) at the time of this picture:
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/2294ray_600hp.jpg

[phebus]

Some billet pullies would set that off nicely, check with Franky here on the boards as he made 2 beautiful sets for my Raylar 600's
Have you opened up your motor yet to see what went wrong?

[INSman]

Have you opened up your motor yet to see what went wrong?
Yes, I will give you 1 guess and one guess only :)

[26Daytona]

Some billet pullies would set that off nicely, check with Franky here on the boards as he made 2 beautiful sets for my Raylar 600's
Do you have any pictures of them ? And what is phebus talking about, did you have a problem with one of your engines ?

[jojoshow]

26 daytona. That thing is real nice looking, Great job. I read the post you had on here a couple nights ago, too bad that somethings happen. What block did you start with. 496ho/mag?, and how much $$$$ are you in to it at this point.
Joel.

[phebus]

Yes, I will give you 1 guess and one guess only :)
I'm hoping it was the rocker nuts. Cheap easy fix

[INSman]

I'm hoping it was the rocker nuts. Cheap easy fix
Ding, Ding !!!!
Somewhat cheap and somewhat easy. but should have NEVER happened. I will leave it at that for now.

[phebus]

I thought they had a fix for that, and took care of the packages they had sold.

[26Daytona]

26 daytona. That thing is real nice looking, Great job. I read the post you had on here a couple nights ago, too bad that somethings happen. What block did you start with. 496ho/mag?, and how much $$$$ are you in to it at this point.
Joel.
Thanks Joel.
After my boat was out of warranty I took the stock motor out and used only the block for the new one. I'm probably closing in on close to 30K, but I put all new parts in it, I mean all new. I have a very trick Titan oil pump that was over $1000.00 and all new forged internals. I had all of the parts blasted with walnut shells and painted Dodge Viper blue to match my boat and that was really expensive. I think you could do the 600 HO for under 20K if you used a lot of the parts from the old motor.
Hope that helps.
Rob

[jojoshow]

26 daytona thanx. We have a new boat and are considering some opps. down the road. Really nice job. Let us know how it does when you get it in.

[26Daytona]

Ding, Ding !!!!
Somewhat cheap and somewhat easy. but should have NEVER happened. I will leave it at that for now.
I like those pullies, how much were they ?
I have those same rocker arms, although I just got mine a few weeks ago. I hope mine are upgraded.
I have heard about the problems, so I used red Lock Tite and tourqued them to 12 lbs.

[26Daytona]

26 daytona thanx. We have a new boat and are considering some opps. down the road. Really nice job. Let us know how it does when you get it in.
There is also about $3000.00 dollars worth of Comp Reprogramming, Fuel System Upgrading and Oil Cooler Upgrades that you really don't hear about until after you are almost finished with your engine.

[INSman]

I like those pullies, how much were they ?
I have those same rocker arms, although I just got mine a few weeks ago. I hope mine are upgraded.
I have heard about the problems, so I used red Lock Tite and tourqued them to 12 lbs.
Send a PM to Franky, as I have forgotten in all honesty.

[Kilrtoy]

Ding, Ding !!!!
Somewhat cheap and somewhat easy. but should have NEVER happened. I will leave it at that for now.
Sorry to hear that Blaine, I saw you on mon or tues heading up 95 from Mesquite...

[shadow]

Do you have any pictures of them ? And what is phebus talking about, did you have a problem with one of your engines ?
Do yourself a favor.Take the 3/8" rocker studs out of the cylinder heads along with the rocker nuts supplied with your kit.THROW THEM IN THE TRASH.
Go buy some ARP 7/16" rocker studs & posi lock nuts.Take the posi locks to your local machine shop and have them machine the height and OD so they fit under the valve covers and inside the rocker.
If you don't YOU WILL break a rocker nut and YOU WILL be going back into your engine.Broken rocker nut usually won't cause damage but a major inconvience since the nut will break while you are on the water.
The reason i am very familiar with this is because damm near every kit that i know of has broken a nut including mine.
I figured i was going to fix this once and for all and this will solve your problem that YOU WILL have if you don't do it now.
Hate to bag on any part of the Raylar kit because they have been very stand up guys with me and the Raylar kit has served me well.But i'm getting tired of seeing people install these "UPDATED" :rolleyes: nuts and ruining weekends.
Good luck you will be happy once it is all said and done.But mark my words if you don't take this advise. :)

[INSman]

Sorry to hear that Blaine, I saw you on mon or tues heading up 95 from Mesquite...
Yeah, I saw you real quick out of the corner of my eye and yes that was me taking the boat to it's usual and customary 2nd home :hammerhea
The good news was she was sparkling clean after giving her the Dri Wash 'n Guard :rollside:

[26Daytona]

Do yourself a favor.Take the 3/8" rocker studs out of the cylinder heads along with the rocker nuts supplied with your kit.THROW THEM IN THE TRASH.
Go buy some ARP 7/16" rocker studs & posi lock nuts.Take the posi locks to your local machine shop and have them machine the height and OD so they fit under the valve covers and inside the rocker.
If you don't YOU WILL break a rocker nut and YOU WILL be going back into your engine.Broken rocker nut usually won't cause damage but a major inconvience since the nut will break while you are on the water.
The reason i am very familiar with this is because damm near every kit that i know of has broken a nut including mine.
I figured i was going to fix this once and for all and this will solve your problem that YOU WILL have if you don't do it now.
Hate to bag on any part of the Raylar kit because they have been very stand up guys with me and the Raylar kit has served me well.But i'm getting tired of seeing people install these "UPDATED" :rolleyes: nuts and ruining weekends.
Good luck you will be happy once it is all said and done.But mark my words if you don't take this advise. :)
I'm glad you told me this now instead of after the fact, I'll take care of it next week. How did you measure the distance to your valve cover ? Don't mean to sound like an idiot, but I'm not an engine builder.

[INSman]

Do yourself a favor.Take the 3/8" rocker studs out of the cylinder heads along with the rocker nuts supplied with your kit.THROW THEM IN THE TRASH.
Go buy some ARP 7/16" rocker studs & posi lock nuts.Take the posi locks to your local machine shop and have them machine the height and OD so they fit under the valve covers and inside the rocker.
If you don't YOU WILL break a rocker nut and YOU WILL be going back into your engine.Broken rocker nut usually won't cause damage but a major inconvience since the nut will break while you are on the water.
The reason i am very familiar with this is because damm near every kit that i know of has broken a nut including mine.
I figured i was going to fix this once and for all and this will solve your problem that YOU WILL have if you don't do it now.
Hate to bag on any part of the Raylar kit because they have been very stand up guys with me and the Raylar kit has served me well.But i'm getting tired of seeing people install these "UPDATED" :rolleyes: nuts and ruining weekends.
Good luck you will be happy once it is all said and done.But mark my words if you don't take this advise. :)
That right there is "solid" advice !! :rollside:

[shadow]

I'm glad you told me this now instead of after the fact, I'll take care of it next week. How did you measure the distance to your valve cover ? Don't mean to sound like an idiot, but I'm not an engine builder.
You can pull the nuts/rockers off,they will be coming off anyway.while the small studs are still in place (Easiest way)find a piece of rubber hose that fits over the stud with slight resistance,cut a small length 1"-1 1/2" or so.Put that over the stud then set the valve cover on pushing the hose down.pull the valve cover off mark the hose and thats what you need.make sure not to cut the posi's too short you can always run em back over to the machine shop and take em down alittle more.

[26Daytona]

You can pull the nuts/rockers off,they will be coming off anyway.while the small studs are still in place (Easiest way)find a piece of rubber hose that fits over the stud with slight resistance,cut a small length 1"-1 1/2" or so.Put that over the stud then set the valve cover on pushing the hose down.pull the valve cover off mark the hose and thats what you need.make sure not to cut the posi's too short you can always run em back over to the machine shop and take em down alittle more.
Thank you very much for the advice Shadow
. I'll do that next week, sounds like it will save me some grief.
Rob

[INSman]

Thank you very much for the advice Shawdo. I'll do that next week, sounds like it will save me some grief.
Rob
Uh, yes it will :cool:

[Beer-30]

I like those pullies, how much were they ?
I have those same rocker arms, although I just got mine a few weeks ago. I hope mine are upgraded.
I have heard about the problems, so I used red Lock Tite and tourqued them to 12 lbs.
I HOPE YOU ARE TALKING ABOUT THE STUDS!!!!!
We don't torque down roller rockers around here.

[496POWER]

we just upgraded a Volvo 375 to a Raylar 550 and modified the basset headers to fit Corsa Quick and quite

[Kachina26]

I HOPE YOU ARE TALKING ABOUT THE STUDS!!!!!
We don't torque down roller rockers around here.
Negative ghost rider, these nuts are designed to seat and torque. That's where the problem comes in, the taper of the nut and the taper of the top of the stud don't "jive" causing the nut to split. I inspected all of the nuts and studs that went into my kit after the 3rd failure. I feel pretty confident that all is well in my kit, now. If I experiance another failure, knock wood, I will be doing the Shadow retrofit. (Which ought to be standard at this point in the game).
The reason i am very familiar with this is because damm near every kit that i know of has broken a nut including mine. I was told that only 2 kits in the whole country had this problem :confused:
Truth be told, I got some very nice results out of my kit once the dust settled.

[Beer-30]

Negative ghost rider, these nuts are designed to seat and torque.
Ah. Well, ya learn somethin' new every day!
I can't believe this is still happening in kits. I said it early on, and Shadow probably was even working on it before I did; Poly-Locks! I am sure one or two poly locks has failed in their time, but I would believe that to be more 'operator' error than anything else. They have been supplied with rollers since birth, 'cause their meant to be there.

[Dave C]

aaaahhhh hhaaaa... its all starting to make sense now.
Hmmmm.. stock rocker stud no good under more lift and spring pressure. Sounds kinda like a stock Mark IV doesn't it when adding roller springs (plus girdle). ;)
thanks for the heads up!!
Dave
Do yourself a favor.Take the 3/8" rocker studs out of the cylinder heads along with the rocker nuts supplied with your kit.THROW THEM IN THE TRASH.
Go buy some ARP 7/16" rocker studs & posi lock nuts.Take the posi locks to your local machine shop and have them machine the height and OD so they fit under the valve covers and inside the rocker.
If you don't YOU WILL break a rocker nut and YOU WILL be going back into your engine.Broken rocker nut usually won't cause damage but a major inconvience since the nut will break while you are on the water.
The reason i am very familiar with this is because damm near every kit that i know of has broken a nut including mine.
I figured i was going to fix this once and for all and this will solve your problem that YOU WILL have if you don't do it now.
Hate to bag on any part of the Raylar kit because they have been very stand up guys with me and the Raylar kit has served me well.But i'm getting tired of seeing people install these "UPDATED" :rolleyes: nuts and ruining weekends.
Good luck you will be happy once it is all said and done.But mark my words if you don't take this advise. :)

[Beer-30]

aaaahhhh hhaaaa... its all starting to make sense now.
Hmmmm.. stock rocker stud no good under more lift and spring pressure. Sounds kinda like a stock Mark IV doesn't it when adding roller springs (plus girdle). ;)
thanks for the heads up!!
Dave
Sort of. It's not actually the STOCK rocker stud. It is 3/8" ones supplied in Raylar kit (per Shadow). 3/8" seems fine in small blocks, but I just don't know I would put them in a big-block. Especially with 1.7+ ratio as opposed to 1.5. Not to mention the heavier valves and springs. BUT, it's not necessarily the stud that is the culprit - so much as the nuts. It may be a combo, but it sounds like the nuts are just too thin; trying to fit INSIDE the rocker and all.
People on here preach over and over: You can't skimp on valvetrain! Think of what is going on under those covers at 3,4 or 5000 RPM. All that stuff is flat BUSY. Any piece of it goes, and you're on a tow rope!

[Kachina26]

http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/1284DSCN0807-med.JPG
3/8 " stud, 5/16 " threaded portion. You can see the remainder of the nut on the stud.

[superdave013]

People on here preach over and over: You can't skimp on valvetrain! Think of what is going on under those covers at 3,4 or 5000 RPM. All that stuff is flat BUSY. Any piece of it goes, and you're on a tow rope!
And you'll be crying when you see what that peice did to your oil pump! I broke a rocker once (not a raylar) and was shocked that such a big chunk made it past the screen on the oil pump pick up. It got jamed between the gears and then broke the pump drive. Of course it happened at 8K RPM so every thing else went downhill real quick!

[rvrhlic]

That looks awesome. Even though you are unhappy with the build and service you have received, I'm waiting to see how happy you are with the performance.
PERFORMANCE??? Good luck on that!

[26Daytona]

http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/1284DSCN0807-med.JPG
3/8 " stud, 5/16 " threaded portion. You can see the remainder of the nut on the stud.
Damn, I hate that picture. It's giving visions of whats to come !
Ray told me that the nuts had been improved, he also said to torque them to 12lbs. I'm still going to do what Shadow said to do.

[voodoomedman]

Damn, I hate that picture. It's giving visions of whats to come !
Ray told me that the nuts had been improved, he also said to torque them to 12lbs. I'm still going to do what Shadow said to do.
He also said some incorrect things about why your package did not make it out last Friday! :jawdrop:

[26Daytona]

He also said some incorrect things about why your package did not make it out last Friday! :jawdrop:
You are exactly right, that's why I'm taking Shadows advice.

[26Daytona]

we just upgraded a Volvo 375 to a Raylar 550 and modified the basset headers to fit Corsa Quick and quite
That looks great. Any performance #'s yet ?

[Dave C]

different symptoms of the same disease. Anytime you add more spring pressure,(roller cam=high spring pressure) then thought must be given to the remainder of the parts around it. All it takes is one valve train part, even though upgraded, that still can't "hack it." :rollside: :cry:
I think Shadow hit the nail right on the head.
SOP is to remove 3/8' studs in BBC's ;) And I like the poly lock idea, although it takes more room, they are alot stronger so they hold up to more spring pressure. I learned a long time ago not to waste time on anything else.
BTW thank god for the invention of the Jesel's for Mark IV's.... no more stud girdles :crossx: :)
Sort of. It's not actually the STOCK rocker stud. It is 3/8" ones supplied in Raylar kit (per Shadow). 3/8" seems fine in small blocks, but I just don't know I would put them in a big-block. Especially with 1.7+ ratio as opposed to 1.5. Not to mention the heavier valves and springs. BUT, it's not necessarily the stud that is the culprit - so much as the nuts. It may be a combo, but it sounds like the nuts are just too thin; trying to fit INSIDE the rocker and all.
People on here preach over and over: You can't skimp on valvetrain! Think of what is going on under those covers at 3,4 or 5000 RPM. All that stuff is flat BUSY. Any piece of it goes, and you're on a tow rope!

[Dave C]

:jawdrop: :cry:
that sucks... so did it leave the entire stud behind or did some of the stud break?
Yup something looks a bit "off" there.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/1284DSCN0807-med.JPG
3/8 " stud, 5/16 " threaded portion. You can see the remainder of the nut on the stud.

[Raylar]

The correct torque figure is 120 inch pounds which is 10 ft/lbs and no you can not use a ft/lb torque wrench to torque to 10 ft/lbs because its not accurate enough to give you a an accurate value at this small setting @10 ft/lbs, that is why the instructions show 120 inch pounds and call for that. Rob, this is what you were told when you asked. We now have over a hundred motors running these nuts some for over a year with no failures. WE did have a manufacturing error in the early adjustment nuts and we took care of those few that showed up. Others were changed early on recall even though they did not fail at all. The few failures we see during install like this are from over torquing plain and simple. In fact this is the only install failure we have been told about in over a year. Simple, use a good inch pound torque wrench and follow instructions. Do it wrong, get it wrong!! Why should this be the manufacturers problem.
Ray @ Raylar

[Dave C]

LMAO OH SNAP. that's a f-ing good one. Two sides to every story!!... LOL
I can just hear the banjos playing.... I'm gonna get me a 1/2" impact and tighten down that sum biatch..... that'll learn her.... :rollside: :rollside:
ha ha a good redneck don't even own a inch-lb torque wrench... LOL :) :rollside:
The correct torque figure is 120 inch pounds which is 10 ft/lbs and no you can not use a ft/lb torque wrench to torque to 10 ft/lbs because its not accurate enough to give you a an accurate value at this small setting @10 ft/lbs, that is why the instructions show 120 inch pounds and call for that.
Ray @ Raylar

[voodoomedman]

Rob, this is what you were told when you asked.
You also told him my driver missed his pickup at your place when he asked where the package was but now we know that isn't true!
Simple, use a good inch pound torque wrench and follow instructions. Do it wrong, get it wrong!! Why should this be the manufacturers problem.
Simple. Place item in proper corrugated box with two inches of cushioning on each side. Seal box with good packing tape. Process shipment in Worldship, on UPS.com, Campusship or many other ways and place label on package. When UPS driver shows up for your daily pickup hand him the package and he will scan you Pickup Summary sign it and return to you. Do it wrong (or never actually do it), get it wrong (or package never gets picked up as it wasn't there in the first place). Why should this be UPS's problem.

[26Daytona]

The correct torque figure is 120 inch pounds which is 10 ft/lbs and no you can not use a ft/lb torque wrench to torque to 10 ft/lbs because its not accurate enough to give you a an accurate value at this small setting @10 ft/lbs, that is why the instructions show 120 inch pounds and call for that. Rob, this is what you were told when you asked. We now have over a hundred motors running these nuts some for over a year with no failures. WE did have a manufacturing error in the early adjustment nuts and we took care of those few that showed up. Others were changed early on recall even though they did not fail at all. The few failures we see during install like this are from over torquing plain and simple. In fact this is the only install failure we have been told about in over a year. Simple, use a good inch pound torque wrench and follow instructions. Do it wrong, get it wrong!! Why should this be the manufacturers problem.
Ray @ Raylar
My bad Ray, it was 120 inch lbs or 10 lbs. Sorry.
I tourqed mine to 10 lbs because I couldn't find an inch lb tourque wrench.

[voodoomedman]

Rob, this is what you were told when you asked.
You also told him my driver missed his pickup at your place when he asked where the package was but now we know that isn't true!
Simple, use a good inch pound torque wrench and follow instructions. Do it wrong, get it wrong!! Why should this be the manufacturers problem.
Simple. Place item in proper corrugated box with two inches of cushioning on each side. Seal box with good packing tape. Process shipment in Worldship, on UPS.com, Campusship or many other ways and place label on package. When UPS driver shows up for your daily pickup hand him the package and he will scan you Pickup Summary sign it and return to you. Do it wrong (or never actually do it), get it wrong (or package never gets picked up as it wasn't there in the first place). Why should this be UPS's problem.

[ChumpChange]

You also told him my driver missed his pickup at your place when he asked where the package was but now we know that isn't true!
Simple. Place item in proper corrugated box with two inches of cushioning on each side. Seal box with good packing tape. Process shipment in Worldship, on UPS.com, Campusship or many other ways and place label on package. When UPS driver shows up for your daily pickup hand him the package and he will scan you Pickup Summary sign it and return to you. Do it wrong (or never actually do it), get it wrong (or package never gets picked up as it wasn't there in the first place). Why should this be UPS's problem.
This is funny. I love it when people get caught. I feel like I'm in first grade again when I read this. Anybody can do it!

[dm25advantage]

Knock On Wood, I Have The Basic Bck-103 , Going On 2 Season And My Motor Has No Problems. Running Strong And Reliable. Have Not Had A Failure Yet.

[gg10]

30k motor with non adj valve gear, .375 stud with .3125 nut,? hello.

[Beer-30]

30k motor with non adj valve gear, .375 stud with .3125 nut,? hello.
Well, I have been rolling this around since all this talk about torque and rocker nuts. I know the factory, p/u version of bigblocks have had the non-adjustable valvetrain for a few years now. And that is all good and well.
Then, you can change studs and run any adjustable rockers you want.
The crutch here, is everyone is trying to stay under the stock valve covers, which are now around 3/4" shorter than regular Gen V and VI covers. AZ Spd&Mar has 496/8.1L VC spacers in three different heights. This would solve the problem of even having to machine special poly-locks. One could even run a stud-girdle if they wanted.
Or, machine the polys down to size, but still use a 7/16" stud instead of 3/8". Trying to cheat the height with small studs and nuts doesn't interest me at all. But, I don't have a Raylar Kit, either.
I have said it before here a few times, and Shadow probably already had it in the works: Stick with poly-locks. They have not failed in hard-core race engines since they have been in existance. Sure, there are probably some fluke failures, but not near what we are seeing here.