Oil Cooler Q's

[75MillerJet]

I'm going to purchase an oil cooler for my 455 and was wondering where i could find one and as for the install, does the water line going into the unit come from a "T" in the main water intake line?

[Old Guy]

All of the cooling water goes through a gate valve then the oil cooler first, then to everything else on my boat.
old

[75MillerJet]

All of the cooling water goes through a gate valve then the oil cooler first, then to everything else on my boat.
old
o ok so the oil cooler is inline somewhere between the gate valve and connecting to the motor... which brings me to my next question, i was told to change my plumbing so the cold water goes through my engine first and then to the logs. Is the correct path for the water as follows...
1. from lake to water pump plate
2. from thermostat housing to where lake water used to be coming in first on logs (a 90 degree fitting on my logs)
3. from other fitting next to the 90 directly to the fitting on the bottom of snail
o and a good place to order or buy the cooler from?

[centerhill condor]

this is how I've always seen it. Hope this helps.

[Old Guy]

If you put an oil cooler after the valve in the blue line, you have a pic of my set-up.
http://www2.***boat.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=14903
Running cold water to the engine block first is not a good idea.
old

[75MillerJet]

If you put an oil cooler after the valve in the blue line, you have a pic of my set-up.
http://www2.***boat.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=14903
Running cold water to the engine block first is not a good idea.
old
isthat because of the possibility of cracking the block? also i never thought about this before but where am i gettin the oil from to go through the cooler?

[Taylorman]

Running cold water to the engine block first is not a good idea.
old
I would not say its not a good idea, this is how its done with headers. Its just that the logs stay cooler if they get water before the engine.

[FLEA DIDDY]

Running cold water to the engine block first is not a good idea.
oldCould you go into detail about that. I'd say 98% of us have cold water going from the pump to engine and then to the headers. 2% of us don't run water to the headers.

[75MillerJet]

Could you go into detail about that. I'd say 98% of us have cold water going from the pump to engine and then to the headers. 2% of us don't run water to the headers.
so u run the cold water straight to ur block and THEN the headers? and no problems? whats ur temp readings?

[n8dawg]

I run water to the block first then to my headers and my temp stays right at 140, but I also have 2 gate valves to ajust the pressure comming in and going out. So I can really fine tune the temp using the one going out.

[Old Guy]

Could you go into detail about that. I'd say 98% of us have cold water going from the pump to engine and then to the headers. 2% of us don't run water to the headers.
Sure, no problem with the detail. A Marine application is considered "extreme" compared to an Automotive application. The reason for the difference is the load. A Marine engine is often subjected to "full load" conditions for extended periods of time. Without special preparation, the engine will fail. There are 2 issues that become very important. First, the heavy, sustained load causes heat. It causes a lot of heat that is concentrated in the lower part of the engine. The crankshaft, rods, camshaft, pistons, all the bearings, and of course the oil, get very hot. Heat causes metal to expand. This does not show up on the engine temp gauge, it's reading water temp. It's probably not even very close to the hot parts of the engine.
So, you say, "Why doesn't the whole engine get hot?". It can't get very hot because the block is being cooled with an endless supply of cold water from the lake. Unless there is a separate oil cooler, the oil never gets any of the benefit of the supply of cold water.
Now we get to where the trouble starts. The engine block (note the term "block") is cold. The bore dia. of the cylinders is very close to what it was before you started it. All the stuff in the bottom keeps getting hotter. When you make a run at WOT, the bottom stuff will be extremely hot. How hot? Hot enough to expand (heat does that) and no longer fit in the space provided. This can, and often does, cause the engine to break.
This is the reason a Marine engine requires more clearance for pistons, bearings, etc..
75MillerJet was asking about his set-up which has logs and risers (snails). He has the option of running the water through the logs and preheating it a bit. Now a guy running Zoomies is not gonna have that option is he.
I also recommend using a thermostat.....for all of the above reasons.
old

[Old Guy]

Just a note for you guys who are running "cold" engines. When I say cold I mean you can put your hand on block or heads anytime.
You can't see it of course, but raw gasoline is washing the oil off the cylinder walls all the time the engine is running. This is wearing the engine out way faster than necessary.
Gas is also diluting the oil in the crankcase.
old

[FLEA DIDDY]

Sure, no problem with the detail. A Marine application is considered "extreme" compared to an Automotive application. The reason for the difference is the load. A Marine engine is often subjected to "full load" conditions for extended periods of time. Without special preparation, the engine will fail. There are 2 issues that become very important. First, the heavy, sustained load causes heat. It causes a lot of heat that is concentrated in the lower part of the engine. The crankshaft, rods, camshaft, pistons, all the bearings, and of course the oil, get very hot. Heat causes metal to expand. This does not show up on the engine temp gauge, it's reading water temp. It's probably not even very close to the hot parts of the engine.
So, you say, "Why doesn't the whole engine get hot?". It can't get very hot because the block is being cooled with an endless supply of cold water from the lake. Unless there is a separate oil cooler, the oil never gets any of the benefit of the supply of cold water.
Now we get to where the trouble starts. The engine block (note the term "block") is cold. The bore dia. of the cylinders is very close to what it was before you started it. All the stuff in the bottom keeps getting hotter. When you make a run at WOT, the bottom stuff will be extremely hot. How hot? Hot enough to expand (heat does that) and no longer fit in the space provided. This can, and often does, cause the engine to break.
This is the reason a Marine engine requires more clearance for pistons, bearings, etc..
75MillerJet was asking about his set-up which has logs and risers (snails). He has the option of running the water through the logs and preheating it a bit. Now a guy running Zoomies is not gonna have that option is he.
I also recommend using a thermostat.....for all of the above reasons.
oldMMMM k............. "You say it's not a good idea" So we are all up shit creek without a paddle. I don't know one person that runs a thermostat on their jet. So then all these header companies are selling us headers that are going to F@CK our shit up cuz we can't "PRE HEAT" the incoming water? Whatever to each his own, I think telling someone it's a "BAD IDEA" to run cold water thru the motor with out "pre heating" is not good advise when 98% of us do it with no problems.

[FLEA DIDDY]

Just a note for you guys who are running "cold" engines. When I say cold I mean you can put your hand on block or heads anytime.
You can't see it of course, but raw gasoline is washing the oil off the cylinder walls all the time the engine is running. This is wearing the engine out way faster than necessary.
Gas is also diluting the oil in the crankcase.
oldI ran my motor with the water (gate valve) wide open per advise from previous owner and never had it that cold. This thread is going to spiral out of control now I think. :rollside:

[Old Guy]

MMMM k............. "You say it's not a good idea" So we are all up shit creek without a paddle. I don't know one person that runs a thermostat on their jet. So then all these header companies are selling us headers that are going to F@CK our shit up cuz we can't "PRE HEAT" the incoming water? Whatever to each his own, I think telling someone it's a "BAD IDEA" to run cold water thru the motor with out "pre heating" is not good advise when 98% of us do it with no problems.
Tell me dude, are you really as stupid as you sound.....or maybe you're workin at it extra hard?
old

[TexasJet]

When I had logs the water went into the logs, then into the motor. I had a thermostat also. Water temp guage read about 150. Later, with Lightning headers the water went thru the motor first, then thru the headers. Now, I have added an oil cooler. The water goes thru the oil cooler then the motor then the headers. I am still running a thermostat. The water temps are around 160. I define "cold water" as anything below 60. If the water is in the 60's chances are my boat is not in it. If you add an oil cooler it will definately pre heat the water so cold water will not be a problem.

[FLEA DIDDY]

Tell me dude, are you really as stupid as you sound.....or maybe you're workin at it extra hard?
oldSo now it comes down to insults? I am stating facts ****tard I don't know anyone that runs a thermostat and have been told more than once not to run one. Nor is there anyway to preheat water with a set of headers. I didn't just by a boat yesterday :rolleyes: Maybe I should have worded things better so your STUPID ASS will understand, Maybe I'll send out a mass email letting everyone know to pre heat the incoming water :rolleyes:

[GunninGopher]

When I had logs the water went into the logs, then into the motor. I had a thermostat also. Water temp guage read about 150. Later, with Lightning headers the water went thru the motor first, then thru the headers. Now, I have added an oil cooler. The water goes thru the oil cooler then the motor then the headers. I am still running a thermostat. The water temps are around 160. I define "cold water" as anything below 60. If the water is in the 60's chances are my boat is not in it. If you add an oil cooler it will definately pre heat the water so cold water will not be a problem.
This is how I've always been told to set it up and it makes perfect sense.
Insults aside, if you have an opportunity to pre-heat the raw water coming in, you should. Of course, If you can't pre heat the water, then you can't, it's as simple as that!!! Also, why not cool the logs as much as possible?
As far as running a thermostat is concerned, I have a couple of opinions about that. I've always wanted to keep a good supply of water to the logs, and I've been told to be very concerned about it getting plugged with sand and etc, so I've never ran with one. I have seen the bypass systems that are available and they probably address my concerns.

[Taylorman]

More than one way to skin a cat guys. If it aint broke.