Trailer problems

[infotraker]

I have a dual axle hydro trailer with a 77 Sanger ski hydro, BBC 454. The back tires are waring fast on the inside. 3 years ago I put on 2 new heavier duty axles when the back axle broke close to the hub. Now the back axle is slightly bowed. A custom trailer shop (where I bought the axles) says that the distance between the axle hangers and the hub is to far (about 10 inches). The engine sits directly over the back axle. They say to remedy the problem the axle hanger area must be closer to the hub meaning a structure made to move them out closer to the hub (very expensive). I think if I buy another axle and have a second piece of solid axle material welded under the axle then it should never bend again. Is that a solution and has anyone had this problem. I don't know the make of the trailer. Any ideas would be great. I need a fix soon.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/524/450trailerresize.jpg

[blowngas]

that should strengthen the axel and keep it from flexing----the best thing you could do for the trailer, boat, and tow vehicle would be to remove the middle leaf and just use the top leaf and the small bottom one and let the spring flex like it is supposed to do and not have the trailer "bounce" on the tires because the springs are too strong-----been there and done that

[Fiat48]

Never heard of such a problem. I can see the leverage factor though. Maybe pick up a used trailer without the problems and sell yours to a guy who wants make it a dolly trailer.
Find out wall thickness of that HD axle you are bending is. Ask the guy who built it and why he can't make one with heavier wall tubing.

[daddy b]

I have 2 hydro trailer axels, springs, and hangers (came off to make a dolly trailer) for you If you would like. I've never heard of such a thing.
Daddy b :rollside:

[502 JET]

The square tube could still bend even with lighter springs.Square tubing is not very strong when applying that much leverage.Axles with round tubing in the center would be stronger.
Did your new axle have the spring perch or a locating hole in it?I dont think your axles were ever designed for that much overhanging past the spring mount.

[72 superlite]

I know of a V/M hydro trlr, new stainless fenders, brakes, tires and wheels need replacing, just from sitting, trlr has never been backed into a lake, color is white wit some chips and surface rust.

[infotraker]

Is my trailer setup different from other hydro trailers ? I should have looked at hydro trailers at CFW last weekend !

[infotraker]

Daddy B, where are you located and what do you want for the parts ? What is the lengtht of the axle and drop down measurement ?
72 Super Lite, where is the VM trailerr located ?

[Beer-30]

That doesn't look like excessive Camber to me. Hard to tell from the pic, but the axle is supposed to have some negative camber to make it track and not wander all over. I would borrow a magnetic camber gauge and if both sides were less than a degree each, I wouldn't worry about it.

[daddy b]

Hey Infotraker,
The axels came off a ellis trailer,
inside hub to inside hub is 86",
the drop is three and a half inches from the top of the axel to the top of the drop,
the drop is @four inches from the center of the hub to the center of the axel.
Oh, the springs and hangers are still attached, look identical to yours, and are spaced 57" apart, from inside spring to inside spring and the springs are 27" long.
My wife would give you 200.00 to come and get them out of the drive way but I would take 100.00(that could mean you make a 100.00 behind my back).
I'm 20 minutes north of San Luis Obispo, CA.
If you can use them come and get um. I've been helped by so many here I would like to help you out. Daddy B :rollside:

[72 superlite]

The trlr is in Port Angeles Washington, at my dads. Let me know if your interested. I'll work on getting pics if you are. I'm 100 miles south of there. And could get it at least this far if you were interested. He was asking 1500 bucks.

[infotraker]

Thanks Daddy B. I will measure my setup and keep you in midn.

[72 superlite]

I looked at my dads V/M trailer. Its a 1981, the axle and spring set up looks about the same as you pictured above. The vin tag shows a MGAW (maximum gross axle weight) of 2700 lbs per axle, and a total max gross of 4500 lbs ( if I remember right). Your hydro is well under that with a trlr. Dad said he has never heard of or seen this happening. Seems weird. A light boat supported by two axles has these problems, while my neighbors 22' Maxum bounces down the road on a single axle. Good luck.

[RitcheyRch]

Wouldnt it be easy to weld a c-channel to the top of the axle tube to strengthen the axle?

[72 Hondo]

A freind of mine had the same problem and, come to find out that when he took the trailer apart to paint it he put his axle in backwards :rolleyes: He thought maybe he bent an axle. I mesured the toe/in and flipped his axle, no more problems. Just an Idea.
Good Luck,

[cowboybob]

That doesn't look like excessive Camber to me. Hard to tell from the pic, but the axle is supposed to have some negative camber to make it track and not wander all over. I would borrow a magnetic camber gauge and if both sides were less than a degree each, I wouldn't worry about it.
How is Camber supposed to help the Trailer Track????????
What you may be referring to is Castor which WILL cause the Wheels to track straight. (think of the Wheels on a Grocery Cart)
All Camber does is wear out Tires and the only reason a Trailer would have negative Camber would be due to Axle Deflection.

[ss396]

:idea: i use to build trailers and have done both single and tandum. the most important thing is to make sure that the axle is square. it will tear up tires if it is not. here is what you do. put jack stands under your axles and pull your wheels and tires off. then take a tape measure and go from the center of the hitch to the center of the hub or edge of the hub and you should be less than 1/16th of an inch or less. if you are off then loosen your u-bolts on the axle and get in with in specs. also check and make sure that the bushing in the spring eye's and hangers are not wore out if they are ovaled replace them and remeasure. this should cure the problem. if the distance is way of when you measure you will need to have the hangers cut off and relocated to the proper position. if that needs to be done you do the same thing with the front hanger and proceed from there. the best way to do this is with the boat off and with the trailer turned over with the bottom side up. good luck :)

[DelawareDave]

How is Camber supposed to help the Trailer Track????????
What you may be referring to is Castor which WILL cause the Wheels to track straight. (think of the Wheels on a Grocery Cart)
All Camber does is wear out Tires and the only reason a Trailer would have negative Camber would be due to Axle Deflection. I believe you are referring to CASTER, which is a measurement of the "kingpin inclination", not castor, which is a bean that castor oil comes from. Caster is what causes the steering wheels (front tires) to return to straight ahead from a turn, and has no bearing on a trailer axle in any way, shape, or form, unless the axle is defective. Positive camber, meaning the top of the tires would be farther apart than the bottom, by 1/8 of an inch, give or take, is usually designed and built into a trailer axle to compensate for loading (read deflection) of the axle. I ran the engineering dept of a national company, and we built all the axles in our shop, that were used by the company. Thousands of axles. They were welded on a robotic welding machine, in a fixture. This made them as consistent as possible. BUT- every axle was checked for alignment in another fixture: Toe in, Toe out, camber, and squareness. MAX allowable was 1/16 toe in/ toe out, 1/16 out of square, and 1/16 negative/ 1/8 positive camber. This translated in the fixture to 0.2 degree. Any that didn't meet spec were either brought into spec, or cut up and scrapped.

[cowboybob]

I believe you are referring to CASTER, which is a measurement of the "kingpin inclination", not castor, which is a bean that castor oil comes from. Caster is what causes the steering wheels (front tires) to return to straight ahead from a turn, and has no bearing on a trailer axle in any way, shape, or form, unless the axle is defective. Positive camber, meaning the top of the tires would be farther apart than the bottom, by 1/8 of an inch, give or take, is usually designed and built into a trailer axle to compensate for loading (read deflection) of the axle. I ran the engineering dept of a national company, and we built all the axles in our shop, that were used by the company. Thousands of axles. They were welded on a robotic welding machine, in a fixture. This made them as consistent as possible. BUT- every axle was checked for alignment in another fixture: Toe in, Toe out, camber, and squareness. MAX allowable was 1/16 toe in/ toe out, 1/16 out of square, and 1/16 negative/ 1/8 positive camber. This translated in the fixture to 0.2 degree. Any that didn't meet spec were either brought into spec, or cut up and scrapped.
Thanks for catching the typo.
Those figures of 1/16th are at what distance from the spindle center? (I'm not a math guy and I'm not sure what 0.2 Degrees would be.)

[DelawareDave]

18"

[DUCKY]

First, make sure that your springs and hangers are not binding up. Take them apart and lube em, and don't over tighten the bolts. Many people like to over-tighten the bolts rendering the springs virtually useless. Then you may also consider the other suggestion of removing a leaf or two. Most 5-lug axle/spring combos are 3000-3500lb capacity. You have two of them, carrying roughly a 2500lb load. You may also consider gusseting the axle on top between the hub flange and the spring perch. A piece of 3/8 plate standing on end, cut into a "quarter moon" shape about 1 1/2-2" high in the center should do it.
One guy mentioned flipping the axle over. If your is a straight axle (as opposed to a drop axle, can't tell in the pic) that might work. Most axles are manufactured with slight bow in them that would create positive camber without weight. The idea is to acheive neutral camber when loaded. A drop axle is pretty idiot proof however...Installing it upside down would give your trailer a 4" lift kit!