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View Full Version : cst lift.... 5150 bilstein shocks



TOBTEK
01-09-2006, 05:40 PM
Anyone else have this combo on their 2500HD? I have 16k miles on mine and it fills like the syspension is going to fall off in the street at any second! Took it back to Off Road warehouse and they said the pitman arm or idler arm has bushings that ware out fast fast and there isnt anything they can do about it. AND the sound in the back is the shocks that are blown out. This cant be normal, The truck has NEVER been off road. Is there a kit or something for the front end? and if I have to get new shocks, what is the hot set-up with out going into crazy money.

tahitijet
01-09-2006, 07:03 PM
they are correct about the bushings... chevy for some reason switched over in the new trucks and started surronding the pitman and idler arm stubs with nylon (I think) bushings. This creates a huge weak link and they will and do wear out prematurly even in stock trucks. Many lift kits on the market use a upper control arm drop and a very narrow steering drop with tie rod extensions. THis has become normal but unfortunatly is very very harsh on componets The leverage created by larger tires on a narrowly spaced upper/lower control arm is increased many times over stock. This typically causes lifted trucks to knock out of alignment easily and also wears pitman /idler arms. Couple that with the weak parts to start with and you get your problem.
So long story short cognito offers a pitman/idler arm support kit that reinforces both pieaces and virtually elimnates wear on these parts.
I'm a dealer for them if you need anything. It's a very simple kit to install

TOBTEK
01-10-2006, 10:12 AM
good information! so what do I need and what am I looking at price wise?

sigepmock
01-10-2006, 10:28 AM
good information! so what do I need and what am I looking at price wise?
I'm pretty sure with the CST 6-8" you shouldn't have problems with the pitman/idler set-up. I know on my RCD I reinforced the pitman/idler with a kit from Cognito but with the way the CST kit drops the steering it's supposed to eliminate the problem.
Let me do some checking and see what I can find. I'll get back to you.
Chris

TOBTEK
01-10-2006, 11:20 AM
I'm pretty sure with the CST 6-8" you shouldn't have problems with the pitman/idler set-up. I know on my RCD I reinforced the pitman/idler with a kit from Cognito but with the way the CST kit drops the steering it's supposed to eliminate the problem.
Let me do some checking and see what I can find. I'll get back to you.
Chris
thanks Chris for checking.....AND the CST DOES have a big problem! fills and sounds like the wheels are going to fall off at any second. I need to demo someones shocks to see if mine are toast. I dont even want to drive this thing at this point.

sigepmock
01-10-2006, 11:21 AM
Checked around and it seems that the CST kit helps reduce the effect of the larger tires but doesn't eliminate it. If your's are toast which seems odd at 16k miles youre best bet is to upgrade with the Fabtech kit. It has the higher quality delrin(sp?) bushings. The kit may be on back order though right now. Also have you had the dealer check on the "Intermediate Steering Shaft"? These trucks are notorious for wearing these out fast, makes a loud clunking sound going over small bumps , especially when turning, should be covered under warranty. As far as the rear shocks my buddies also say that they should have lasted longer, Bilstein should warranty the shocks if they don't show signs of abuse.
Good luck and sorry to hear about your problems,
Chris

H20 Toie
01-10-2006, 02:01 PM
That's why after having Chevys for years i finally bought a Ford :yuk: Even the H2 had the same problem :mad:

sigepmock
01-10-2006, 02:08 PM
thanks Chris for checking.....AND the CST DOES have a big problem! fills and sounds like the wheels are going to fall off at any second. I need to demo someones shocks to see if mine are toast. I dont even want to drive this thing at this point.
I've got 9500 miles on mine and no issues. My buddies at two shops told me to wait until the stock idler/pitman arm start to rattle then replace them with the Fabtech parts. I checked them a few weeks ago and everything was still tight and looked good, so I leave them for now.
I think SoCalHD has some Rancho 5000's that will fit your truck if you want to see if yours are shot, I'll see if he still has them and can let you borrow them.
Still seems stange that they's wear out so fast. I had the Bilstien 5100's on my RCD lift and put 50k hard miles on them and they were just starting to show signs of getting old when I sold the truck.
Chris

sigepmock
01-10-2006, 02:12 PM
Looks like it's time for the upgrade Toby.
http://www.hotboatpics.com/pics/data/500/5495rear_shocks-med.JPG
Or maybe time for the bypass's:
http://www.hotboatpics.com/pics/data/500/5495shockhoops.JPG
:crossx: :D

tahitijet
01-10-2006, 06:09 PM
Checked around and it seems that the CST kit helps reduce the effect of the larger tires but doesn't eliminate it. If your's are toast which seems odd at 16k miles youre best bet is to upgrade with the Fabtech kit. It has the higher quality delrin(sp?) bushings. The kit may be on back order though right now. Also have you had the dealer check on the "Intermediate Steering Shaft"? These trucks are notorious for wearing these out fast, makes a loud clunking sound going over small bumps , especially when turning, should be covered under warranty. As far as the rear shocks my buddies also say that they should have lasted longer, Bilstein should warranty the shocks if they don't show signs of abuse.
Good luck and sorry to hear about your problems,
Chris
good call on the intermediate shaft. that can also be an issue however more common on the 2wd then 4wd.
I'd like to see a pic or cst's steering drop? do you have one? Using a lift kit with a properly designed steering drop (I can only think of 2 and maybee the exception of cst 3 companies that use a proper design) and buy leaving the upper control arm as high as possible and using an extended spindle (not a lift spindle) to make more space between the upper/lower control will grately reduce the leverage large tires apply.
No need to upgrade to differen't pieaces, install the cognito kit and you'll virtually eliminate all wear and tear on the pitman/idler arm bushings.
They also offer a heavy duty idler arm and support for the SUV's as the idler in the suv has been knowen to fail as well.

tahitijet
01-10-2006, 06:11 PM
That's why after having Chevys for years i finally bought a Ford :yuk: Even the H2 had the same problem :mad:
I don't even want to dive into the issues that come up in fords :) :rollside:

tahitijet
01-10-2006, 06:13 PM
I've got 9500 miles on mine and no issues. My buddies at two shops told me to wait until the stock idler/pitman arm start to rattle then replace them with the Fabtech parts. I checked them a few weeks ago and everything was still tight and looked good, so I leave them for now.
Chris
With the congito kit you have installed those parts wont wear out. Eventually the totall assembly may need replacing but no sooner then should be expected from a properly working pieace.
By the way i like your truck thats a good looking ride. Are those kings installed on your truck? How do you like them?

tahitijet
01-10-2006, 06:17 PM
good information! so what do I need and what am I looking at price wise?
The retail price of the kit is 200.00. But of course i'll work you a deal. Even though the parts are worn it wont be totally neccesary to replace them wtih this kit however for pieace of mind and since your in there already i'd recomend changing out the pitman/idler arm

INSman
01-10-2006, 06:39 PM
Toby
I have a 2004 GMC Sierra HD2500 4x4 that has the 6" CST lift with dual hoop in the front and Bilstein 5100's I believe without the reservoirs, and I think I put at least 35K miles on it this past year with not a hint of a problem.
maybe a poor install ?? :confused: :idea: :supp: :confused:

Just Tool'n
01-11-2006, 03:47 AM
Checked around and it seems that the CST kit helps reduce the effect of the larger tires but doesn't eliminate it. If your's are toast which seems odd at 16k miles youre best bet is to upgrade with the Fabtech kit. It has the higher quality delrin(sp?) bushings. The kit may be on back order though right now. Also have you had the dealer check on the "Intermediate Steering Shaft"? These trucks are notorious for wearing these out fast, makes a loud clunking sound going over small bumps , especially when turning, should be covered under warranty. As far as the rear shocks my buddies also say that they should have lasted longer, Bilstein should warranty the shocks if they don't show signs of abuse.
Good luck and sorry to hear about your problems,
Chris
Took mine in on Monday to get the Steering shaft replaced. It has been doing the Clunk now for about 10k miles. Of coarse the dealership has to order the part.
You would think they would stock this part since it seems to wear out all of the time.

sigepmock
01-11-2006, 08:09 AM
With the congito kit you have installed those parts wont wear out. Eventually the totall assembly may need replacing but no sooner then should be expected from a properly working pieace.
By the way i like your truck thats a good looking ride. Are those kings installed on your truck? How do you like them?
I ran the Cognito kit on the last truck with the RCD lift. This truck has the CST 6-8". Thanks for the compliments. I'm running the King 2.5's with the remote reservoirs, same hoop set-up as the pick of the bypasses I just not that big of a baller to be able to afford the bypasses.
As far as the CST lift, it uses a ladder style steering drop. Basically the stock pitman arm and idler stay in the stock location and a parrallel drop bar is used with a couple of heims that attach it to the new sub frame. See the pics below:
http://www.hotboatpics.com/pics/data/500/5495cststeeringdrop1-med.jpg
http://www.hotboatpics.com/pics/data/500/5495cststeeringdrop2.jpg
I also upgraded my stock tie-rods with some heavy duty ones from So Cal Supertrucks.
http://www.hotboatpics.com/pics/data/500/5495front_shock2-med.JPG
I know lots of guys are bending the stock ones pretty easy. I am going to look into adding the Cognito brace to this truck as peice of mind, I'm just not sure if it will fit without interfering.
Here's the fabtech kit:
http://www.hotboatpics.com/pics/data/500/5495fabtech.jpg
Looks like it has an upgraded Pitman arm, Idler arm, and HD tie-rods, and a steering stabilizer.
Toby, I still think you shouldn't be having problems with your set-up with the low miles, I don't want to insult the shop you used but maybe take it to another shop to get a second opinion.
Chris

sigepmock
01-11-2006, 08:13 AM
Just thought of something else. What upper A-arm are you using Toby? The stock one or the CST with Uniball? I've seen the stock upper ball joints work loose and start to rattle bad. Just thinking out loud.
Chris

sigepmock
01-11-2006, 08:38 AM
Here's some good info from Cognito's web site:
Overview:
Whether your truck is stock height or lifted and running oversized tires, Pitman and Idler arms have always been a problem on the steering systems of the GM and FORD vehicles. The Pitman and Idler arm Support kit by Cognito Motorsports fixes a wear problem that is present on the factory and aftermarket steering system. Aftermarket companies have come out with heavier duty pitman and idler arms that fail the same way that the factory parts do. The design created by Cognito Motorsports solves the problem in an innovative way that no one else has been able to create before. This design works so well that we were able to establish a PATENT PENDING.
The problem when not using the Cognito Motorsports Pitman and Idler Arm Support kit:
If you are not familiar with how the GM steering system works, here is a quick lesson. The pitman arm is connected to the output shaft of the steering gear box. When you turn the steering wheel of your vehicle, the motion is directed to the steering gear box which then rotates the pitman arm. The pitman arm has a stud protruding from the end of it where the center link connects, also called the drag link. To help control steering motion, the center link is connected to an idler arm on the passenger side of the vehicle. The idler arm is bolted to the frame and swings in the same arc as the pitman arm, and is fastened to the center link the same way the pitman arm is. The two mounting points for the center link give it support in the motion left and right relative to the vehicle, but there is not enough support in the direction of forward to backward relative to the vehicle. This lack of support is what causes the joints inside of the pitman and idler arms to wear out, which provide the pivot and connection point for the center link. The larger the tire on the vehicle, the faster these joints wear out. Aftermarket companies have come out with beefed up pitman and idler arms, but still have the same premature wear issue in the same joint.
What happens if you are not using the Cognito Motorsports solution?
The front alignment toe settings can not be held because of the slop in the pitman and idler arms allowing the center link to move forward and backward. No control over the toe setting means that your front tires will experience irregular and premature wear. When the center link swings toward the back of the truck, it is also swinging up in an arc. The center link swinging up increases the tie rod angle and can cause tie rod breakage. Most tie rod problems actual originate from pitman and idler arm problems.
The Cognito Motorsports Solution:
The Mechanical Engineer at Cognito Motorsports has come up with a non traditional design to fix this problem, and it works GREAT! The support kit can be installed on pitman and idler arms showing a lot of wear, and actually revive them! If the worn parts have approximately 40,000 miles or less on them with a close to stock size tire, they probably will not have to be changed. If the worn parts have approximately 20,000 miles or less on them with larger than 33” tires, they probably will not have to be changed. If the parts have more miles than that on them, it is recommended to replace the pitman and idler arms with factory units and add the Cognito Motorsports Pitman and Idler Arm Support Kit.
This innovative design is so unique that it has a utility patent pending status right now. The support system works by double capturing the studs that protrude from the pitman and idler arms which the center link connects to. At the same time it still allows the studs to pivot on their own axis which is needed when the steering system is turning. This Cognito Motorsports system provides the support needed to prevent the center link from rocking forward and backward in the vehicle.
Installation:
There is no welding or cutting required to install this kit. It is a simple installation for a qualified mechanic. Installation time is 45 minutes to an hour. It is required to have the front end alignment performed after installing this system. View the installation instructions here.
As soon as I confirm with Justin at Cognito that it will work with my CST lift, I'll be placing an order for this again.
Chris

sigepmock
01-11-2006, 09:47 AM
Just talked with Justin at Cognito. He says their brace will work with the CST kit but he doesn't think we need it but it couldn't hurt. He suggested if the stock ones are shot to use the Moog replacements. He said they are lasting a lot longer than the Fabtech ones.
Off of Moogs Website-
Pitman Arm: K6654
Idler Arm: K6535 (Improved Design W/O Bracket)
Moog frame bracket for the idler arm is a K6659
Inner Tie-Rod end (4WD): ES3488
Inner Tie-Rod end (2WD): ES3489
Outer Tie-Rod end: ES3493T (Improved Design)
Idler arm (just the arm, not the bracket)
Napa # 268-3715
Idler arm bracket
Napa # 268-3717
Pitman Arm
Napa # 268-1679
I think I might get the Cognito brace kit anyways. $200 for piece of mind.
Sorry for all the info. This one got me fired up :crossx:
Chris

TOBTEK
01-11-2006, 11:12 AM
Toby
I have a 2004 GMC Sierra HD2500 4x4 that has the 6" CST lift with dual hoop in the front and Bilstein 5100's I believe without the reservoirs, and I think I put at least 35K miles on it this past year with not a hint of a problem.
maybe a poor install ?? :confused: :idea: :supp: :confused:
or I didnt get all the stuff I should have???????

TOBTEK
01-11-2006, 11:24 AM
Just talked with Justin at Cognito. He says their brace will work with the CST kit but he doesn't think we need it but it couldn't hurt. He suggested if the stock ones are shot to use the Moog replacements. He said they are lasting a lot longer than the Fabtech ones.
Off of Moogs Website-
Pitman Arm: K6654
Idler Arm: K6535 (Improved Design W/O Bracket)
Moog frame bracket for the idler arm is a K6659
Inner Tie-Rod end (4WD): ES3488
Inner Tie-Rod end (2WD): ES3489
Outer Tie-Rod end: ES3493T (Improved Design)
Idler arm (just the arm, not the bracket)
Napa # 268-3715
Idler arm bracket
Napa # 268-3717
Pitman Arm
Napa # 268-1679
I think I might get the Cognito brace kit anyways. $200 for piece of mind.
Sorry for all the info. This one got me fired up :crossx:
Chris
Chris....thanks for all the info. I need to do something....maybe just get a new 06, or 07 ford twin turbo :) ready for a new color anyway. What do those King or Fox shocks sell for? Do I have to do front shock hoops? Im kinda into non-hoop look.

sigepmock
01-11-2006, 11:31 AM
Chris....thanks for all the info. I need to do something....maybe just get a new 06, or 07 ford twin turbo :) ready for a new color anyway. What do those King or Fox shocks sell for? Do I have to do front shock hoops? Im kinda into non-hoop look.
To be honest I'm suprised you haven't sold the truck already and moved on....I mean you already sold the boat and Rhino :D
I think I paid about $300/ea for the Kings and the Fox Bypass's are around $650/ea. I'm sure you could get a set of to work in the stock location but you'd need to do a little modification to the mount. I'm going by SoCal Super trucks next Tuesday, I'll see what they say.
BTW Boat looks absolutely sick, can't wait to see what you did to the Rhino. Evo's working on my cage and seats hopefully as we speak.
Chris

TrojanDan
01-11-2006, 01:48 PM
I'm going by SoCal Super trucks next Tuesday, I'll see what they say.
Chris
Who do you recommend for the Cognito Leveling Kit for the install? SoCal Super trucks or your buddy at Rancho Motorsports? I have a '05 4x4 3500 SRW CC LB and want to keep my mileage and tow capacity hence the leveling kit.
Thanks. :cool:
BTW- Tahitijet, thanks for your insight. I'd give you a call but noticed your shop is up in "V".

sigepmock
01-11-2006, 02:09 PM
[QUOTE=TrojanDan]Who do you recommend for the Cognito Leveling Kit for the install? SoCal Super trucks or your buddy at Rancho Motorsports? I have a '05 4x4 3500 SRW CC LB and want to keep my mileage and tow capacity hence the leveling kit.
Thanks. :cool:
Just re-read the post and changed my answer, I recommend you get a quote from both and then beat them up on their price :crossx: I consider both of them my friends, Jason at Rancho motosports a better friend though so he should give you the best deal.
:D
Chris

TrojanDan
01-11-2006, 02:32 PM
Thanks Chris. :cool:

sigepmock
01-11-2006, 04:19 PM
Thanks Chris. :cool:
No Problem, if you need me to put in a good word with either guy let me know. You should be real happy with the leveling kit, it's a good compromise, let's you run some decent size tires but keeps the towing/hauling easy.
Good luck,
Chris

TrojanDan
01-11-2006, 04:59 PM
No Problem, if you need me to put in a good word with either guy let me know.
Good luck,
Chris
That sounds great. I'm leaving to Havasu tomorrow for the long weekend and I will be bringing my truck home for a couple of months (snowbirds are renting). I'll shoot you a PM soon.
Thanks again.

RidinRed
01-12-2006, 02:11 AM
I dont know about the newer trucks but, my 96 and 99 both lifted w/ about 10k miles. Steering was jacked on both. Two seperate shops did the work, corksuckers at the stealer said they were in spec.
On another note, Bilsteins i have seen fail with few miles. Both on stock Z71's and lifted as aftermarket.
So, your troubles could be either. Guess I didn't help much huh?

tahitijet
01-12-2006, 07:04 PM
I dont know about the newer trucks but, my 96 and 99 both lifted w/ about 10k miles. Steering was jacked on both. Two seperate shops did the work, corksuckers at the stealer said they were in spec.
On another note, Bilsteins i have seen fail with few miles. Both on stock Z71's and lifted as aftermarket.
So, your troubles could be either. Guess I didn't help much huh?
Poorly designed lift kits are out there in force for every make and model of truck.. They look good and do there job but improperly designed steering drops do nothing but cause bump steer and take out pitman an idler arms left and right.
When we used to run whiplash kits it was highly common to take out pitman or idler arms within a few thousand miles on trucks with 38" and larger tires. This is a direct result of a bad steering drop design. Many, in fact most companies use a variation of the same style of design drop. The most common negative effect of this drop has been refered to as the "death wobble" Those who have had lifted trucks for a long time with large tires know what i'm talking about.
Now on the newer trucks there are weak links in the steering as were described on page 1. even with a proper drop they still require attention. install an improper steerign drop and the pieaces wont stand a chance.

cyclone
01-15-2006, 06:10 PM
To be honest I'm suprised you haven't sold the truck already and moved on....I mean you already sold the boat and Rhino :D
I think I paid about $300/ea for the Kings and the Fox Bypass's are around $650/ea. I'm sure you could get a set of to work in the stock location but you'd need to do a little modification to the mount. I'm going by SoCal Super trucks next Tuesday, I'll see what they say.
BTW Boat looks absolutely sick, can't wait to see what you did to the Rhino. Evo's working on my cage and seats hopefully as we speak.
Chris
Bypass shocks would be a huge waste of cash on a truck that never sees the dirt.

garret
01-17-2006, 10:11 PM
Bypass shocks would be a huge waste of cash on a truck that never sees the dirt.
I agree bypass shocks are a waist of money for a street truck.
Everybody is so egore to go waist money on shit they dont need!! This kit sounds like a poor install and should be looked at by another shop!! I personally have installed several of these kits and have never had a problem!!!!!

TOBTEK
01-18-2006, 07:32 AM
I agree bypass shocks are a waist of money for a street truck.
Everybody is so egore to go waist money on shit they dont need!! This kit sounds like a poor install and should be looked at by another shop!! I personally have installed several of these kits and have never had a problem!!!!!
well......I have heard from alot of people at shops that the pitman and the idel arm are complete junk from the factory, and IF you dont put the heim joint steering and ball joint upper A-arm they ware out even faster. Its going up to So cal super trucks Monday to get all the extra stuff that I was to cheap to buy out of the gate. And have them check out the rest of the previous intstall. Still torn on new shocks, want something that looks good, but dont want or need by-pass or double shock deal. They are putting in a rear air bag system with on board air compressior for when I pull the boat as well.

sigepmock
01-18-2006, 08:20 AM
Sounds good Toby, Casey and those guys do some pretty good work. Just had my truck there yesterday getting all the bolts re-checked and some rubber washers added to the shock mounts to stop a little rattle I had.
I don't know what your budget is but I couldn't justify the bypass shocks and I hate the shocks to the upper a-arm set-up so I went with the same Shock hoop Javier and SoCalHD did but with a single King 2.5" shock to the lower a-arm. The Kings were about half price of the bypass's and you can now get them with the black anodizing not the blue, which I think would look pretty clean. Maybe even get them in Orange to match the boat, I know they're doing alot of different colors now.
Here's a couple of pics of mine with the Reservoirs mounted in different spots, I finally settled on a nice billet reservoir mount of the main shock that replaces the pipe clamps in the second pic.
http://www.hotboatpics.com/pics/data/500/5495100_0124-med.JPG
http://www.hotboatpics.com/pics/data/500/5495front_shocks1-med.JPG
Probably still overkill for a mostly street truck but when I do take it off-road it rides great and I'm not worried about breaking stuff.
Good luck,
Chris

INSman
01-18-2006, 10:03 AM
well......I have heard from alot of people at shops that the pitman and the idel arm are complete junk from the factory, and IF you dont put the heim joint steering and ball joint upper A-arm they ware out even faster. Its going up to So cal super trucks Monday to get all the extra stuff that I was to cheap to buy out of the gate. And have them check out the rest of the previous intstall. Still torn on new shocks, want something that looks good, but dont want or need by-pass or double shock deal. They are putting in a rear air bag system with on board air compressior for when I pull the boat as well.
I tow my pretty heavy 29' Shockwave with twins no problem and have no air bags nor are they needed in my opinion. Might be a waste of $$$ on that one.

TOBTEK
01-18-2006, 11:52 AM
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/135javier_truck-med.jpg
heres a pic of Javiers heim joint dealio........clean set up. IF you DONT mind me asking how much are those KING shocks? I like the way they look.

sigepmock
01-18-2006, 01:14 PM
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/135javier_truck-med.jpg
heres a pic of Javiers heim joint dealio........clean set up. IF you DONT mind me asking how much are those KING shocks? I like the way they look.
SoCalHD and I both have that same tie-rod upgrade as Javier, well worth the money. The shock hoops front and rear plus the Kings were right at $3000 but a lot of that was labor. I think the shocks are close to $350 each. I also think SoCal Supertrucks can set you up with a King or Fox shock in the stock location, which should give you good performance but for a much cheaper price. There's a lot of Labor in adding the shock hoops to the front and adding the additional cross member/shock attachment in the rear. I am very happy with my set-up and it rides smooth down the road and can handle the big stuff when the truck goes offroad with out breaking.
See what Casey has to say, I'm sure he'll give you the best deal possible.
Make sure to post pics when you're done.
Chris

ecfiffer
02-03-2006, 10:16 PM
http://www.hotboatpics.com/pics/data/500/5495shockhoops.JPG you know sadly this shot really does SoCalHD's trusk justice. you really have to see it in person. And I think his is a touch more over kill then yours Mock... (but then again I like giving my bro some hell....)

duffster
02-05-2006, 07:34 AM
Giant hime joints are the ony way to go.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/1355P1010015.JPG
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/1355P1010009.JPG

Firewater
02-05-2006, 11:54 AM
duffster....where did you get the coilovers installed??? I've been looking for someone to do that lift. Is your truck 4wd?

ecfiffer
02-05-2006, 08:21 PM
duffster.... what kind of lift do you have on there? RCD Fabtech? That is a crazy coil over set up!

ecfiffer
02-05-2006, 08:26 PM
duffster....where did you get the coilovers installed??? I've been looking for someone to do that lift. Is your truck 4wd?
yeah its 4WD, you can see the front diff hiding behind the Spindle...

WetWillie
02-05-2006, 09:37 PM
http://www.socalfab.com/gorilla_tie_rod.jpg

Ivan Dan
02-05-2006, 09:48 PM
Giant hime joints are the ony way to go.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/1355P1010015.JPG
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/1355P1010009.JPG
This is Jay Photoglou's old truck. I think the suspension and lift was all done custom built with uniballs ( :crossx: :p giant heims).

duffster
02-06-2006, 06:50 AM
The truck has gone thru a ton of transformations from a standard 6in lift to 4in King Racing coil-over's. But I am sure any good fabricator could handle doing it correctly you just need to commit to have some major cutting torch work done and $$$. The bottom a-arms are stock and the top a-arms are custom with "giant uni-balls" (Thanks IVAN DAN) :crossx:.
The truck is full working 4-wheel drive and the ride on road and off is very smooth with no shimmy or vibrations at fwy speed. I bought the truck used from a "BIG HB.com KINGPIN" with most of the work already done I'm pretty sure Baker fabrication in Huntington Beach did some of the work from talking to a few people.

Firewater
02-09-2006, 12:36 PM
Duffster, how long have you had the truck? I'm just looking to get rid of the RCD disco lift and have something that can hit alittle bit of dirt or sand without too much worry (ball joints, tie rods..) I put the Cognito pitman and idler arm bracket and heims to somewhat help the problem.

duffster
02-09-2006, 03:30 PM
Duffster, how long have you had the truck? I'm just looking to get rid of the RCD disco lift and have something that can hit alittle bit of dirt or sand without too much worry (ball joints, tie rods..) I put the Cognito pitman and idler arm bracket and heims to somewhat help the problem.
A little over a year and everthing seems to be holding up just fine. No welding needed yet. :rollside:

al cole'holic
02-09-2006, 03:49 PM
I had RCD and all the shiat in the front end broke religously @ 15k miles..

THEPISTONHEAD
02-14-2006, 07:53 PM
The 5150 Billies arent holding up to good since there unveiling. Im runnin 7100 resevoirs in front and 5100's in rear and love them. Best money ive spent to date.