Comp Cams Recommend Delo??

[disco_charger]

Anyone else hear that Comp is recommending Delo 15-40w for their no roller set ups? Anyone ever run this stuff on a everyday basis in their gas motor? Thanks.

[Daytona100]

They say to use it for cam break-in. Has better lubricants that oil manufactures have removed from normal oil.

[malcolm]

I've run it alot in lots of stuff, works great

[MikeF]

Believe it has something to do w/ the "zinc" that is in the oil. CStraub or Info could expand on this more than I could. :)
That is the oil I use in my diesel truck.

[disco_charger]

They say to use it for cam break-in. Has better lubricants that oil manufactures have removed from normal oil.
No, the new recommend is to run it all the time.

[mnjettr]

diesel oils aren't as regulated as auto's. Mike f, yes zinc is the additive used in diesel oils. I use Rotella in my BBC boat.

[Taylorman]

I run Rotella in my 455 also. Has more lubricating properties than regular oil. Rotella and Quaker state racing are the two oils with the highest amount of zinc as per a recent article in Car Craft.

[77Woodbridge]

Excuse my ignorance, but what is the benefit of zinc in the oil?

[YumaBiesemeyer]

Zinc and Phosphorus are in the oil for metal to metal protection. They have been removed from modern oils because they were thought to shorten the life of catalytic converters(not really proved from what I have read). This stuff is needed for flat tappet cams. If the oil container has the starburst enblem that says "safe for gasoline engines" than it has a friction modifier instead of zinc and phosphorus. Some synthetics, diesel oils, and some racing oils still have it.

[Taylorman]

Excuse my ignorance, but what is the benefit of zinc in the oil?
Its what gives oil its lubricating properties. I read that all engines have some oil that gets past the rings and when the engine burns the oil, the zinc in the oil is what is harmful to the environment.

[396_WAYS_TO_SPIT]

It appears that valvoline racing oil has zinc still in it;)
http://www.valvoline.com/products/VR-1%20Racing%20Motor%20Oil.pdf

[77Woodbridge]

Zinc and Phosphorus are in the oil for metal to metal protection. They have been removed from modern oils because they were thought to shorten the life of catalytic converters(not really proved from what I have read). This stuff is needed for flat tappet cams. If the oil container has the starburst enblem that says "safe for gasoline engines" than it has a friction modifier instead of zinc and phosphorus. Some synthetics, diesel oils, and some racing oils still have it.
Gotcha, thanks.

[396_WAYS_TO_SPIT]

I have been doing a little research and here is what I found. I will post more info as I find it...............
Question:
Presence of Zinc in Engine Oils
Does Mobil Delvac have zinc in the oil? A lot of racers are using Shell to break in their cams in HP engines due to the zinc in the oil. It works the best. I think most oils for non-gas cars have zinc in the oil to help something?
-- Jeff Paquette, Raymond, NH
Answer:
All engine oils have an additive called ZDDP (Zinc DialkylDithioPhosphate) for wear protection. In general, heavy duty engine oils (truck oils like Mobil Delvac) have a higher level of ZDDP. Automotive engine oils generally have a lower level of ZDDP to protect catalytic systems.
Around the time of the flat-tappet lifter shortage, motor oil was experiencing its own changes. Engines with flat-tappet cams have extremely high pressure loading at the contact point between the lifter crown and the cam lobe. According to Mark Ferner, team leader for Quaker State Motor Oil Research and Development, "Even stock passenger cars can see pressure in excess of 200,000 psi at the point of flat-tappet/cam lobe contact." To prevent excess wear, traditional motor oil included a generous dose of antiwear additives, primarily zinc dialkyl dithiophosphate (ZDDP). "The chemistry is such that the additive is a combination of zinc and phosphorous," says Rockett Racing Fuel's Tim Wusz. "Typically the phosphate amounts are about 75 percent of the zinc amounts. For example, if there was 0.100 percent zinc by weight in the motor oil, then the phosphate is about 0.075."
Ferner adds, "The zinc reacts with the cam lobe's iron surface. That creates a sacrificial chemical coating strong enough to keep parts separated to reduce the wear." Although great for keeping a flat tappet alive, as an engine ages and develops blow-by, some of the additives flow out the exhaust where they can degrade oxygen sensor and catalytic converter performance. Faced with ever more stringent emissions standards and the governmental mandate for extended emissions-control- system warranties, the OEMs got together with the motor oil makers and decided to reduce the amount of ZDDP in street-legal, gasoline-engine motor oils. After all, they weren't needed with modern roller lifters and overhead-cam followers. The reduction first started in the mid-'80s, and it has been a gradual process, but the latest API SM and GF-4 specs have reduced ZDDP content to such an extent that the new oils may not provide adequate protection for older, flat-tappet-equipped vehicles running nonstock, performance cams and valvetrains. And it will only get worse; projected future oil spec revisions will likely reduce ZDDP content even more.
GM EOS assembly lubricant (PN 1052367), currently sold in a 16-ounce plastic bottle, is an excellent concentrate for breaking in a new cam. Your favorite cam company should offer a similar product. If running API SM/GF-4 street oils, consider adding a 4-ounce bottle of GM camshaft and lifter prelube (PN 12345501) at every oil change to protect in-service flat tappets.
Available at truck stops, Wal-Mart, and major auto parts stores, Shell Rotella T oils as of '06 still have plenty of ZDDP additives. Although officially marketed for big 18-wheel trucks and construction equipment, Shell's Dan Arcy says, "Other than viscosity differences and possible catalytic converter issues, there is no reason not to run Rotella in your gasoline-fueled car."
If you are building up the engine from scratch and intend to run flat tappets, adjust your build specs and technique accordingly. Don't excessively restrict oil to the lifter galleys, check and maintain proper tappet-bore clearance, and consider grooving the lifter bores for increased lubrication (Comp has a special tool for this). Where offered, use beehive springs in place of traditional heavy-duty dual springs. "With the beehives, you get better control with less load," says Godbold. Above all, avoid no-name, brown-bag, offshore lifters like the plague. True, they're much less expensive, but you get what you pay for. We can say with reasonable confidence that all major cam companies are currently supplying quality lifters with their cams. For you GM guys, there's also the real GM or ACDelco solution.
When it comes time to fire up an engine with a new cam, do not skimp on proper break-in procedure. Put moly lube on the lobes during installation and pour a can of break-in prelube into the oil pan in all cases. Any engine with more than 300 pounds of open spring pressure or 170 pounds of seat pressure (as multiplied by the rocker ratio) should be run in on the outer springs only.
For in-service engines, consider running cam and lifter prelube in the oil all the time, not just during break-in. Another alternative is to use heavy-truck diesel-oil, which is formulated for 18-wheelers and at present still has a full complement of traditional antiwear additives that have been significantly reduced in today's street-legal passenger car oils. (Though even diesel oils will start reducing zinc content in 2007 as big rigs gear up to receive catalytic converters.) Comp Cams swears by Shell Rotella T diesel oil for use in high-performance street cars. It's available in both mineral-based and full-synthetic formulations with both types containing basically the same superior additive package. Rotella viscosities are generally higher than today's modern formulations, but that's not a detriment for classic musclecars. Diesel oils also add a superior detergent package that can keep the piston rings cleaner for better oil consumption control. The drawback, if any, would be on a high-mileage engine where blow-by can cause detergent to accumulate in the combustion chamber, possibly contributing to detonation.
Even better than diesel oil are specially formulated racing motor oils. Although the most expensive solution, these oils usually contain even more antiwear additives than diesel truck oil, as well as other performance-enhancing ingredients specifically designed for hardcore, high-performance gasoline engine usage. According to Cosworth's Thomas Hayden, some diesel oils may not have friction modifiers that he claims are helpful in preventing piston scuff on high-performance gasoline engines, especially if running modern low multiviscosity oils. But Dan Arcy, technical marketing manager for Shell Lubricants, takes issue with the importance of friction modifiers, which he says "are only present in the very low viscosity GF-4 oils for fuel economy reasons."
At any rate, because they have a full load of antiwear additives, today's real racing motor oils are sometimes marked "for off-highway use only" on the bottle. They definitely aren't embossed with the consumer-friendly starburst insignia. Such racing oils won't meet manufacturer's warranty requirements for new vehicles, may degrade catalytic converter performance in long-term use, and in some cases have not been formally submitted to the oil industry's current benchmark performance test and validation procedure. But for older cars running flat tappets, they are the best oils available.
If you make provisions to adequately lubricate the lifter/lobe interface, use only quality lifters, fill the sump with diesel or racing motor oils, and follow proper break-in procedure, any flat-tappet cam failures should be minimized. It's a lot more effort than we've become accustomed to, but if you still want to run a high- performance flat-tappet cam, it's something you'll just have to get used to doing.

[GUGS102]

I can tell you what comp will do if it goes flat..."We are sorry, we'll give you credit for new cam and lifters or credit twords a roller set up" :mad: They don't help you with the entire short block full of metal. :cry: They also don't tell you that they charge 30-40% more for their parts than summitt etc.
So I said, thanks for the $140 bucks guys, it'll only cost 5K to replace the rest of the combo. But the boat runs a lot faster with the new motor and you can't beat the roller set up for durability and HP.
I'm pretty much done with flat tappet set ups. Converted the small block in the car to hyd roller and the boat is solid roller.
Won't go through that mess again...
I've got new valves and springs for comp 280 for BBC if anyone is interested :)

[Taylorman]

I can tell you what comp will do if it goes flat..."We are sorry, we'll give you credit for new cam and lifters or credit twords a roller set up" :mad: They don't help you with the entire short block full of metal. :cry: They also don't tell you that they charge 30-40% more for their parts than summitt etc.
So I said, thanks for the $140 bucks guys, it'll only cost 5K to replace the rest of the combo. But the boat runs a lot faster with the new motor and you can't beat the roller set up for durability and HP.
I'm pretty much done with flat tappet set ups. Converted the small block in the car to hyd roller and the boat is solid roller.
Won't go through that mess again...
I've got new valves and springs for comp 280 for BBC if anyone is interested :)
I feel your pain but if you read the article above that 396 posted it says it all. I don't think its Comps fault.
That is the article i read about the purpose of zinc in the oil and why they reduced the amount of zinc in the oil.

[kcsteck]

Mike where we get tha EOS stuff you talked about earlier. I just got the new Cam and lifters and want to add some of that to my oil for breakin. Dont want another cam to go south!
Taylorman I got the cam u suggested.the split profile extreme cam for the olds ,cant wait to try it. Is there a special way to prepare the lifters. Last time i put in oil over night in coffee can oil level in can over lifters so they were submerged. was I supposed to do anything else other then that?
I know im supposed to adjust the rockers to 25 pounds.
Casey

[Beer-30]

Mike where we get tha EOS stuff you talked about earlier
Casey
I'm not Mike, but you would get it at any GM dealership.

[Beer-30]

http://www.gmgoodwrench.com/PartsAccessories/EngineCareProducts.jsp

[Taylorman]

Mike where we get tha EOS stuff you talked about earlier. I just got the new Cam and lifters and want to add some of that to my oil for breakin. Dont want another cam to go south!
Taylorman I got the cam u suggested.the split profile extreme cam for the olds ,cant wait to try it. Is there a special way to prepare the lifters. Last time i put in oil over night in coffee can oil level in can over lifters so they were submerged. was I supposed to do anything else other then that?
I know im supposed to adjust the rockers to 25 pounds.
Casey
I think that about covers it. Rotella diesel oil will work just the same as the additives.

[396_WAYS_TO_SPIT]

casey, you can soak the lifters in the oil before you install them. I make a special blend that goes in my motor before initial start up. I use 30wt oil,eos,cam lube and engine assembly lube all mixed together. I also add 2 aditional qts of oil so it can splash up on the cam. while running 2k rpm's I hit the throttle every few minutes.