Help!!! Cracked a stringer

[Mr. Crusader 83]

I pulled my motor to have the pump done. And noticed that the stringer is cracked. Can I cut the stringer out where is is damaged only? Or do I have to replace the entire stringer?
Any help would be great........... :cry:

[Jet Hydro]

replace the entire stringer!!!

[diggler]

Replace the entire stringer, or your engine torque will literally twist the engine loose and that could be realllllly ugly!

['75 Miller]

How big is the crack? Does it look as though the actual stringer (wood) is cracked or is the glass all that's cracked? Any chance you can post a good close-up pic?
Matt

[Aluminum Squirt]

Just weld it up and go boating :boxed: . Sorry I couldn't resist-Aluminum Squirt

[DUCKY]

Let's see a pic. You may be able to repair it, and then sandwich the stringer with 1/4" aluminum plate to prevent further issues, but I think the main question here is WHY did it crack....?

[Jet Hydro]

Just weld it up and go boating :boxed: . Sorry I couldn't resist-Aluminum Squirt
We tried that but the fire was an even bigger problem :220v: Sorry I couldn't resist :rollside:

[396_WAYS_TO_SPIT]

dont scrap it....jb weld it:D
lets see some pics of the damage......

[4trax]

Sorry I'm new to this but...... what is a stringer? Where are they located and what do you consider to be bad?

[LGCDEVIL]

Saw your ride over at the shop. Replace both sides.

[Mr. Crusader 83]

has anyone replaced one before? can anyone help me replace mine???

[396_WAYS_TO_SPIT]

get that wallet out!!!!!!!!!!

[Cs19]

There has got to be somebody here on the boards that knows how to do this and wants a little side job for a little extra cash..anyone? anyone?

[flat broke]

There has got to be somebody here on the boards that knows how to do this and wants a little side job for a little extra cash..anyone? anyone?
The problem is that it isn't really a "little side job" and as such it's going to demand more than "a little extra cash". If you don't have a shop to do this work in, you are going to be dripping sweat, and enjoying a week long case of the itchies.
Call Sal at Orange County Boat repair. He'll do a good job, do it relatively fast, and come in on his quoted price.
Chris

[Cs19]

The problem is that it isn't really a "little side job" and as such it's going to demand more than "a little extra cash". If you don't have a shop to do this work in, you are going to be dripping sweat, and enjoying a week long case of the itchies.
Call Sal at Orange County Boat repair. He'll do a good job, do it relatively fast, and come in on his quoted price.
Chris
Thats what I hear but I wouldnt know, I tend to try and stay away from that fiberglass stuff. :) I talked with Mr. Crusader earlier today and told him to throw a post up on HB, I thought maybe someone that has done it before might be up for it, you never know.We came up with an alternative for a repair but the new stringers was what I was hoping for, anyways... Good luck Crusader!
Chris.

[Jet Hydro]

I`v done em but it`s a long drive to Kansas :220v:

[Rampager]

Sell the boat, learn your lesson and get something that will never rot (see pic), will be lighter and stronger and enjoy years and years of boating while the 'other guys' fix rotted/cracked wood and make gelcoat repairs :rollside: :rollside: :rollside:
Cheers
http://www.nzjetboating.com/yabbse/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2237.0;attach=7915 ;image

[Mr. Crusader 83]

Sell the boat, learn your lesson and get something that will never rot (see pic), will be lighter and stronger and enjoy years and years of boating while the 'other guys' fix rotted/cracked wood and make gelcoat repairs :rollside: :rollside: :rollside:
Cheers
http://www.nzjetboating.com/yabbse/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2237.0;attach=7915 ;image
Thats a $hit load of coors light cans!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Mighty Thor]

There has got to be somebody here on the boards that knows how to do this and wants a little side job for a little extra cash..anyone? anyone?
It is actually not all that tough. first you cut out the old stringer. If the floor is in there it has to come out first and you have to make sure you don't cut into the hull when you take that out. I found that a die grinder with a cut off wheel worked great to cut the glass at the hull/stringer joint. after you get the stringer out you make another one and then glass it in. Lots of sites on the web will show pictures and discuss details on how to do it. If nothing else, you can save some money by doing part of the job yourself ie remove the floor etc.

[Mr. Crusader 83]

It is actually not all that tough. first you cut out the old stringer. If the floor is in there it has to come out first and you have to make sure you don't cut into the hull when you take that out. I found that a die grinder with a cut off wheel worked great to cut the glass at the hull/stringer joint. after you get the stringer out you make another one and then glass it in. Lots of sites on the web will show pictures and discuss details on how to do it. If nothing else, you can save some money by doing part of the job yourself ie remove the floor etc.
where have you seen the pics at?

[Mr. Crusader 83]

i dont have pics. but the fiberglass is the only thing that is cracked

[Jet Hydro]

Then grind it out and fix the glass. Thats all you need to do if the wood is not cracked. :220v:

[jkh04200]

I"ve done it. I sarted with a soft spot on the floor and stopped when I removed the transom. Its not that bad and didn't cost much. Now hours of work and sweat value. Thats a different story. First thing to do is to cut out the fiberglass. I'd do this with something like a rotozip or even a dremel tool. The glass is probably not over 1/4 thick. So, dont go to deep. You don't want to go into the wood. If the wood is good underneath, give thanks. If thats the case its an easy fix. BUT, you'll have to grind all the areas you expect the knew glass to adhere too really good. You'll use a 36 grit sanding disc. It will be messy. Buy you a throwaway pair of painters coveralls, goggles(not glasses) and a face mask. Make sure and buy your parts from a fiberglass suppy house, not a hardware store, You want good fresh resin. They'll have everything you need and guide you in ewxactly how to do it.

[holorinhal]

If it is only the glass that is cracked,and there is no wood dammage,then the only thing that needs to be repaired is the glass it'self.That is a relativly simple fix,just a bit of grinding and itchy work.
Just grind the glass out well beyond the crack in all directions,start deep,all the way to the wood,at the crack and feather outwad(kinda like a dish).Clean well with acetone,then start at the center of the dish,with a layer of matt,only the size of the bottom of the dish'then alternate with layers of matt and cloth,making each sucsessive layer a little larger (overlapping)than the one underneath.try to finnish only slightly higher than the existing glass.Sand the repair down smooth,to the same plane as the existing glass and you are done. Do it You'r self and You will save a boatload of cash....Hal

[squirt]

Years ago both outside sides of my stringers cracked where they meet the hull. They were pretty resin rich in that area and I think that lead to the cracking along with the front motor plate and one motor foot being broken. Like mentioned eariler it really isn't that tough to repair if it is just the glass. I went with the sandwitch using aluminum. Had I know about rail mounts back then I probably would have made the insides rail mounts. I have been beating on this repair for 6 very hard seasons and it has passed the test of time.
http://www.banderlog.com/playthings/OrigHole.jpg
Don

[Mr. Crusader 83]

i grinded and sanded the stringers down. the driver side was just cracked, glass only. the pass side, had more damage. the bolts pulled through the stringer. so i sanded the stringers down from the transome to the back of the seats. about 55 inches total. i then reglasses the stringers and i bought 2x4 angled alum 1/4in wall for the inside and plated the outside with 2x3 1/4 in wall. so now the stringers are all re-glassed and clamped together with alum. its pretty strong now.
but......
i want to get rid of the glenwood front motor mount the boltgs through the side of the stringer and get one of those motor mounts that sits on top of the stringer.
does anyone know where i can get one of those?