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eek-a-RAT
08-09-2006, 12:56 PM
i have a jet boat question, im still in the process of dialing in everything & want to know what is happening of all aspects of runnin my boat.
my question is how do you regulate the water presure going from the pump in the motor? my boat has a faucet type regulater from the pump to the motor but dont know what presure it is at? i hear of this p.r.v.(presure reducing valve) do i just install one of these & forget about it? i would like to stick in-line gauge & dont know where to start to find one of these. i went to vic hubbards speed & marine & they looked @ me if i didnt know what i was talkin about. i even explained i need a way to measure this so i dont blow any head gaskets. they shrugged there shoulders & said no such thing. is this true. where can i find this p.r.v.? thanks yall, this forum rocks!

BrendellaJet
08-09-2006, 01:24 PM
auto meter makes a water pressure gauge. You can probably get away with using the pressure regulator on there now and adjust using the gauge. With a stock motor most will just adjust till they are happy with the temp and dont have any issue with overheating. Gauge isn't necessary.

UBFJ #454
08-09-2006, 01:40 PM
h2o pressure in the block should be near 12 psi, 15 max. (think about the pressure rating on your vehicles radiator cap) ... We use a regulator from Grainger and set the pressure using a sensor placed in the block.

Cas
08-09-2006, 02:20 PM
if you drill and tap the thermostat housing and put a pressure gauge there. As far as an inline, you can get something like these
Inline pressure gauges (http://www.dtekcustoms.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=49)
but you'll need to get a higher reading gauge. You can also make one fairly easily using a plastic water fitting and installing a pressure gauge in it.

Jeanyus
08-09-2006, 02:28 PM
That inline pressure gage is sweet, never seen one like that.
Rex Marine sells the pressure regulator that you are looking for. http://www.rexmar.com/page184.html

eek-a-RAT
08-09-2006, 02:48 PM
im just worried of gettin to much pressure into the block & blowin gaskets and such. i seen one @ performancejet called a water pressure relief set up but dont know if thats what i need. is there a more simplified version or not as steep in price for one? see pic.

IMPATIENT 1
08-09-2006, 03:04 PM
im just worried of gettin to much pressure into the block & blowin gaskets and such. i seen one @ performancejet called a water pressure relief set up but dont know if thats what i need. is there a more simplified version or not as steep in price for one? see pic.
plumbing stores have water pressure regulators for wells. they work on the exact same principle but don't look near as nice as the boat specific stuff.i bought a valve from a plumbing store that has a motor that opens and closes a 1/2 pipe threaded valve, gonna stick it inline to the headers so i can shut-off water to em at a flick of the switch,paid 65 bucks for it.moroso also sells the exact same remote controled on/off valve for 99.00, same valve but with a moroso sticker.check out your plumbing supply store, you'll be suprised at the stuff they have that will apply to jetters needs.

IMPATIENT 1
08-09-2006, 03:08 PM
intake gaskets are the weak point, head gaskets are made to hold up to combustion pressures, which is alot more than a pump can create.i 've found that on bbf's the weak point seems to be the frt. timing cover gaskets, seen alot of em blow, mostly due to warped covers.i had some trouble with mine and just bought a new one.

springerpete
08-09-2006, 03:10 PM
I put mine together from parts that I bought from Tractor It is a well pump regulator, 1/2 to 3/8 bushing, galvanized pipe(1/2x10"), blind nipple, 1/2 tee, 1/2x5/8 barb, and gauge. I've got mine turned down to 25psi. I need it to go that high to make the t-valve on my headers work.
This valve looks just like the one that is put on water wells.

IMPATIENT 1
08-09-2006, 03:17 PM
I put mine together from parts that I bought from Tractor It is a well pump regulator, 1/2 to 3/8 bushing, galvanized pipe(1/2x10"), blind nipple, 1/2 tee, 1/2x5/8 barb, and gauge. I've got mine turned down to 25psi. I need it to go that high to make the t-valve on my headers work.
This valve looks just like the one that is put on water wells.
we okie's have southern ingenuity!! can't find what ya need, hell make it!

eek-a-RAT
08-09-2006, 04:43 PM
i like the way u okies do it! i must be part okie in there some where.

BRAWNY
08-09-2006, 05:34 PM
what kind of pressure would you think a berkley pump is putting to the motor
w/out a gate valve?

Captain Assin' Off
08-09-2006, 05:42 PM
I put an acetylene gauge on my intake, it's already 1/4"NPT, and with a bushing reducer, it'll screw right into the sender hole. Funny thing is, the redline starts at 15p.s.i.! You probably have one laying around your shop, they're cheap, reliable, and easy to see.

springerpete
08-09-2006, 06:12 PM
About 150-250psi at full throttle. Depends on your pump. I ran with a gate valve for 10yrs on my Condor, but the hose that comes off the pump blew 1-2 time a year. My dad was the one that suggested that I change the style of valve on my pump. He said that a gate valve was not the correct valve to regulate flow. He said that was the job of a needle and seat valve. It was after that we were in Tractor Supply and found the pressure regulator.

Moneypitt
08-09-2006, 07:19 PM
[QUOTE=springerpete]About 150-250psi at full throttle. Depends on your pump.
I think that number might be a little high. At that pressure all the heater hoses on all the jet boats around the country would be popping daily. Bowl pressure maybe, but not out the engine cooling fitting........MP

squirt
08-09-2006, 07:58 PM
I've posted this before but here is what I did. Cheap oil fill sst pressure gauge (10-18 bucks at graingers) and made a cover plate for the thermostat housing. You can locate the gauge on the intake manifold as most have a number of unused taped holes into the water passages. IMO a regulator really isn't necessary as long as you have a gauge, but it's your choice. Set idle temp with gate valve for around 160 at idle, Hammer it WOT and glance back at gauge adjust pressure to between 10 - 20 LBS depending on engine temp you want.
I work local to you, if ya need any help along the way with this let me know
Don
http://www.hotboatpics.com/pics/data/500/3664gauge2-med.JPG

396_WAYS_TO_SPIT
08-09-2006, 11:09 PM
squirt, whats that blue line on your temp guage wire?? I like that color, whats it made out of?? any better pics of it???

squirt
08-09-2006, 11:43 PM
squirt, whats that blue line on your temp guage wire?? I like that color, whats it made out of?? any better pics of it???
I'd like to tell ya it is something cool but it's not, had the light behind me when I took the pic. It's just that split wire covering that you can pick up almost anywhere :redface:
Don

centerhill condor
08-10-2006, 01:17 AM
I bought the one from performance jet and have excellent results. Idle temp is where the stat is set and wot is 180-190 'f.

kmenard
08-10-2006, 07:34 AM
Is there anything wrong with just having a regular faucet type hooked up after the pump? Does it just build up too much pressure in the pump?

kachina_labala
08-10-2006, 08:01 AM
Here is my setup.
Watts, p/n N35BU which is a Grainger p/n 6LM11. Its a 1 inch outside thread but the inside it threaded 3/4NPT
http://www.hotboatpics.com/pics/data/500/4896pressure_reg-med.jpg
here is the Strainer (http://www.boatersworld.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&catalogId=10051&langId=-1&productId=708715#description)
I removed the screen in the regulator because it got clogged easy and added the big strainer. Im currently looking to come up with a finer screen for the strainer.

squirt
08-10-2006, 04:01 PM
Is there anything wrong with just having a regular faucet type hooked up after the pump? Does it just build up too much pressure in the pump?
Nothing wrong with it at all, Thats how most Jets came from the factory. You just need to set the gate valve correctly for engine temp / pressure, thats what this thread has been about.
Don

kmenard
08-11-2006, 06:39 AM
sorry...it just seemed like people had really intricate solutions to a pretty simple problem.

MarKist
08-11-2006, 12:15 PM
got mine @ northern tool here is a link 13.00
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/category_6970_448828
Markist

SmokinLowriderSS
08-11-2006, 04:38 PM
sorry...it just seemed like people had really intricate solutions to a pretty simple problem.
I agree, as I have had zero trouble out of mine being valve-adjusted only since 1979. Log or jacketed headers are easy tho due to full water flow. Injected headers need more intricate solutions due to far less water flow.

77Woodbridge
08-11-2006, 04:51 PM
Not trying to hijack the thread but do you need any type of regulation with Hardin logs?

SmokinLowriderSS
08-12-2006, 01:53 PM
Other than the inlet restriction valve, no.