Just a double or triple check !!!!

[shagmebabe]

Being as I double & triple check most things before firing a motor....... and being as this is my first time using hydraulic lifters and this motor has been sitting for a couple of years. I primmed the oil pump before installing the distributor then went to adjust the valves. Well..... I'm going to zero and then a half turn. Some of the lifters seem pumped up and a little spondgy and some dont. Do I have to turn over the enging and reprime to pump up all the lifters or do I have collasped lifters. I dont mind readusting the valves after start up, But I will have to take off the headers to get to the valve cover bolts. And if I adjust with the lifter not pumped up will I more than likley bend a push rod ? Help !!!! quick I want to have the engine installed and fired by tomorrow

[YeLLowBoaT]

Read the insuctions that came with your lifters( if you don't have them just pull one and find out who made it and ether call or look it up online) Fallow thier instructions on how to set them. Most of them are diffrent.

[SmokinLowriderSS]

The lifters are spring loaded to full extension, albeit with not very heavy springs. If you are not ham-handed in locating zero lash, you can add 1/4 turn or so (1/2 wouldn't be harmfull) and no risk of bending pushrods. I would agree with YB and try to find out whose lifter it is, my reccolection of stock GM's is zero plus 3/4 turn. My Isky Superlifters are zero plus 1/4 turn, a lot of difference. Find out whose it is, get theirt directions if possible, and then PUT A GOOD WAD OF BREAK-IN LUBE ON THE BASE as a precaution. I'd also run less spring if possible (multiple spring set) just to give it a easier time the first run out while you get everything going again.

[shagmebabe]

Thanks for the input. But why to some feel springy and some dont ?

[shagmebabe]

To be more direct.... After adjustment on some, I can push the rocker arm down about 1/16" or so and some dont budge.

[fc-pilot]

Some may still have air in them. Just a dumb guess.
Paul

[shagmebabe]

Oakie doakie ........ will proceed with zero plus 1/2 and springy or not and see what happens. Thanks guys.
Todd

[YeLLowBoaT]

B4 you readjust anything. Pull lifter and find out who the manufactory is. Then find how that manufactory suggest you do it. I mean adjusting hyd lifters is fairly ez and almost fool proof. There are however lots of things that can go wrong, in turn some of those can cause big probs VERY FAST.

[Moneypitt]

My take from his first post was this was a boat and engine that have been stored for awhile. He is checking things out prior to starting the engine....... If you haven't messed with any valves yet, DON'T. Chances are they are fine, and the lifterrs will recover to the desired pump up, as ran before. Just sitting around won't change the valve lash / no lash. You could spin the motor without plugs and turn the prime tool at the same time and probably build enough pressure to safely start the engine. If you have changed any adjustments then do them all, and again, you can pump them up like above, but you want the plunger to drop a little, .050 or so and pumped lifters can/could hurt pushrods if manhandled that last 1/2 turn. It takes a fine hand to gauge the spining the pushrod method, but you can get the feel of it....MP

[centerhill condor]

exactly MP has it!

[jrork]

If I can make a suggestion as well, please go to a GM dealer and buy a can of Engine Oil Supplement (EOS). I don't know what the stuff is but is slippery and I've heard nothing but good things about it for breaking in a cam. Still put the camshaft lube on the lifters and lobes but a can of this in the oil pan seems to be good too.

[shagmebabe]

It takes a fine hand to gauge the spining the pushrod method, but you can get the feel of it....MP
Now which is the right way ...... Zero lash or zero spin. I have heard both and I currently am going zero lash.

[GofastRacer]

Now which is the right way ...... Zero lash or zero spin. I have heard both and I currently am going zero lash.
You can always spin it, "zero" lash is the way you do it!..

[shagmebabe]

Just checked out the comp cams instruction stuff on their web site. Zero lash plus 1/2 turn. Thanks for all the input and Ill keep you in the know on the start up ( Hopefully this afternoon )
Shag

[steelcomp]

Shag...when you start the engine, it's going to run rough and make lifter noises...don't worry. Just let it idle for a while, and it'll smooth out. What's happening is the lifters that aren't pumped up yet will, and that may take a few minutes. Don't automatically think there's something wrong, and start adjusting lifters. Be patient, and it'll smooth out if everything's adjusted correctly. Just part of having hyd. lifters.

[shagmebabe]

Well.......... Got it all together....... got it in the boat with all plumbing and electrical, primed the fuel pump, got fuel to the carb. Two cranks and BAM away she fired. Valves clattered for a very short while. sounds good. Just gotta go over everything and make sure everthing is tight and all the detail stuff. Im happy ! :rollside:
Thanks for all the help.

[GofastRacer]

Congrats, glad everything worked out!.. :cool:

[jrork]

Right on! Congrats and go make some noise..... :rollside: :rollside: :rollside:

[steelcomp]

Well.......... Got it all together....... got it in the boat with all plumbing and electrical, primed the fuel pump, got fuel to the carb. Two cranks and BAM away she fired. Valves clattered for a very short while. sounds good. Just gotta go over everything and make sure everthing is tight and all the detail stuff. Im happy ! :rollside:
Thanks for all the help.Good deal...glad to hear it.
Have fun!!

[shagmebabe]

Finally got the boat on the water with the new power plant. MAN !! for a small block I was impressed. With the old engine WOT = 4200 RPM @ 47 MPH now ...... 5200 @ 60. I know its no baller but for a 79' Nordic 22 I am more than happy . Thanks to all for all the imput !!!! :cool: