cutting aluminum

[shaun]

I need to cut my motor plates to fit between my stringers, any recommendations on what tools/blades i should use or any tricks to get a clean cut? I'm only making about a 3" long cut on all 4 coners (front and rear plates, each side). I have hand saw, skill saw, jigsaw and sawsaw in my collection. Jig saw sounds to me like the best to use but what type blade? Just a standard metal cutting blade?

[YeLLowBoaT]

Any of those will work. my guess is ether a hack saw or a skill saw with a fiber metal cuting blade would make the cleanest cuts. your still going to have to take a file to it.

[FlatRat]

Make sure that you use some cutting fluid as to keep the blade from clogging up. :rollside:

[HOSS]

I`d use the saw saw.

[Rexone]

Given the tool choices I'd go with the jigsaw with a coarse tooth metal cutting blade, sawzall would be my second choice even though it sounds a little crude. Clamp the plate securely and go slow then dress with file when done. I would not use a fine tooth blade like you would typically use for steel. I would not use a fiber metal cutting blade on aluminum as they just clog up with melted material in a short time.
Now given a wide open choice of saws I'd go with a band saw or a radial arm saw for straight cuts. For home use a radial arm saw with a diamond finish cut blade (for wood) works really well on aluminum if the material is secure and you feed slow and steady. Done it many times. A pivoted cutoff saw with similar blade will work well on bar also.
Now I use a cold saw for bar but still use a band saw for curved cutting on plate for one-off parts, prototypes etc.

[sleekcrafter]

For projects like that I like to use the water jet cutter, Rex you mean you don't have one lying around? :p no just kidding A jig saw and a coarse Bi-metal blade will do the job, just make sure you have a few extras if needed. A good lubricant helps keep the Aluminum from clogging the blades, and taking your time... no going too fast also is key. Cover the areas near the cut with several layers of Duct tape or masking tape to protect from galling, caused by the metal chips and the saw shoe. Good luck and take your time, oh and measure twice, cut once :)
Sleek

[HOSS]

I`d use the saw saw.
Just what is this anyway? :cool:

[rerfert]

Just what is this anyway? :cool:
His spelling of a saws all.
If thick aluminum I use a skill saw with a metal/diamond blade.....use a guide plate clamped on for a straight line (sort of making a hand held table saw with a rip fence) and first make a shallow cut (1/8" pass) then cut the rest of the material.

[lucky]

If it was me and I would mark exsactly where you wanted it - with a permenent marker - take it to a metal shop and pay the 3 bucks a cut ( shear it ) then its easy to clean up and will look ten times nicer - ya need the right tools ... to do a quality job . i mean fred flinstone had wheels on his car - but he wasn't running indy now was he :) chris

[steelcomp]

Any circular saw with a carbide blade is going to give you the best finish and fastest cut. The more teeth, the better. I use my little Ryobi 18v cordless on motorplates, and anything up to 1/2". I've cut 2" plate with a regular Skilsaw. For straight cuts, you can clamp a straight-edge to the piece, and use it as a fence. For contours I use a jigsaw with as course a metal blade as you can find. You have to use lots of lube to keep the blade clean, and don't push too hard, or go too fast. Let the saw do the work. I use either WD40 or LPS. If you're going to polish the stuff, then definately use tape along the path of the cut, as the vibrations and chips will cause scratches. I wouldn't think a diamond blade would stay clean anough to cut aluminum, but I guess if these guys say so...never tried. Don't use a fiber blade. You'll still have to dress any cut you make with a file, belt sander, or disc. I bought a little 10" disc from Harbor Frieght, and it's great for getting the edges straight and clean on short brackets and stuff, and works great for rounding off corners.
Last note...with the carbide blades in circular saws...get a face shield. There's going to be chips flying, and goggles won't cut it.

[superdave013]

I'm with steel on this one. My table saw has never seen wood, ever! lol Skill saws rock too. But of course a sawsall is the best tool ever invented. :)
If you go the skill saw way ya might want to wear a long sleeve shirt. Those chips come off hot.

[rrrr]

His spelling of a saws all.
Sawzall is a trademark owned by Milwaukee......
The proper name is "reciprocating saw".
Class dismissed, and there is free beer in the kitchen. :rollside:

[Rexone]

I stand corrected. I would use my Porter Cable angle head reciprocating saw as my second choice. I could cut it with my reciprocating saw and file it flat while these guys were still setting up the guides for the skill saw and putting the nomex fire suits on. :D Only 4, 3" long cuts remember, we ain't makin rails or entire motor plates here.

[DMOORE]

Sawzaw. It goes through like butter.I do it all the time. I use cutting wax. Comes in a giant chap- stik tube and doesn't drip all over and make a mess like cutting fluid. Get it at any metal shop.
Darrell.

[Taylorman]

When i made my rail kit recently, i used a band saw. Cut 3/8 thick alum like butter. One like this
http://s7.sears.com/is/image/Sears/00922400000

[ERV JR]

I Would Use A Ban Saw Then ,either Finish The Edges With A Belt Sander
Or A 10 In Disc Sander .

[wsuwrhr]

http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/63vf3.jpg

[wsuwrhr]

http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/63al20-med.jpg

[shaun]

well here's what I'm cutting, guess it's a bit longer than 3" and i forgot i have the pump brace pieces to cut also... The plates are about 1/2" thick and the other pieces are probably 1/4" or so (didn't measure those).
http://hi-techperformance.com/images/BBC_Rail_Kit.jpg
Also has anybody else done a HTP rail-kit install for a BBC, any special obstacles they had to tackle with the install?

[flspectra]

Whatever you use, I found a good lube for aluminum is to take a bar of soap and run it against the blade teeth and sides. What a difference and no mess.

[BrendellaJet]

Also has anybody else done a HTP rail-kit install for a BBC, any special obstacles they had to tackle with the install?
After making my own using a table sw & jig saw, I can offer the following advice:
MEASURE everything. Make sure the stringers arecentered in the boat. Mine were not and so I ended up offsetting the mounts. I bet your motor is already built, but if you have just a block to use for mock up it makes things really easy. If you need a block, let me know as Im local & have one you can borrow. Dont cut too much at one time, better to cut a little bit at a time and check fit.

[GofastRacer]

http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/63vf3.jpg
That's for all you rich bastards!.. :rolleyes: :D

[GofastRacer]

Whatever you use, I found a good lube for aluminum is to take a bar of soap and run it against the blade teeth and sides. What a difference and no mess.
Crisco, even better!..

[GofastRacer]

I Would Use A Ban Saw Then ,either Finish The Edges With A Belt Sander
Or A 10 In Disc Sander .
I use a cheap ole Sears bandsaw and it has a belt sander attachment, works pretty good!..

[GofastRacer]

well here's what I'm cutting, guess it's a bit longer than 3" and i forgot i have the pump brace pieces to cut also... The plates are about 1/2" thick and the other pieces are probably 1/4" or so (didn't measure those).
http://hi-techperformance.com/images/BBC_Rail_Kit.jpg
Also has anybody else done a HTP rail-kit install for a BBC, any special obstacles they had to tackle with the install?
No two boats are the identical so all these kits are universal, you just have to line everything up and cut to fit, trim it, drill and bolt it together!..

[wsuwrhr]

That's for all you rich bastards!.. :rolleyes: :D
If I had your money GoFast I'd let you burn mine.
Brian

[GofastRacer]

If I had your money GoFast I'd let you burn mine.
Brian
Yeah right, LMFAO!.. I'll take some of your pocket change if it's weighing you down!.. :D

[Morg]

Another tool I use a bunch for aluminum is my router.
Carbide bit & cutting wax. Works ever so nice. :)

[steelcomp]

Another tool I use a bunch for aluminum is my router.
Carbide bit & cutting wax. Works ever so nice. :)
Yeah, but you better hang on to that sucker. I use one almost every day in wood, and even then, it can bitecha. Can be done, though, with damn good results...as in, your Revenge. :cool:
The cutting wax is the shizz...I just keep forgetting to get some when I'm at the supply house...always end up with the drippy mess. :yuk:

[Sanger77]

Another tool I use a bunch for aluminum is my router.
Carbide bit & cutting wax. Works ever so nice. :)
Really nice work - great looking boat, just looking at all the photos make it apparent a great deal of work and thought went into this restoration. I use mostly 6061 t6, hard on blades, grinder wheels and takes a little time - so if I paid myself more than 50 cents an hour it would pay to take to a shop with jet cutter. But that would be no fun, and measurments would have to be exact first time for a shop.

[rrrr]

I stand corrected. I would use my Porter Cable angle head reciprocating saw as my second choice. I could cut it with my reciprocating saw and file it flat while these guys were still setting up the guides for the skill saw and putting the nomex fire suits on. :D Only 4, 3" long cuts remember, we ain't makin rails or entire motor plates here.
LOL, I thought a polished aluminum parts peddler would know this sort of thing..... :crossx: :p

[beerjet]

LMAO ! :rollside: WAXES AND LUBES ! You guys have seen one to many dirty movies.
Put a diablo 60 tooth wood blade on one of these and you'll wonder what you ever did without it . $40-$45 for the blade.
http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/tylertool_1912_51691486
Or you can put a $12 diablo blade on one of these (more teeth the better) .
http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/tylertool_1912_53944930
Very little filing to do this way.
-beerjet-

[Aluminum Squirt]

I'm no metal worker but due to the nature of how my boat is built, I've cut a little bit of aluminum. I have always used my table saw with success. The jigsaw, skillsaw, and sawzall all work fine, especially for non-straight cuts or pieces you can't bring to the table saw but the table saw is the machine for making good straight cuts with no drama. I just use any regular wood blade, preferably not a new one because you are going to dull it up some. I guess more teeth would be better, but I've used a pretty low tooth count before with good results. Take a candle or parafin and make a few cuts into it before you cut the aluminum and it should glide right through. Go slow and watch out for pieces of aluminum coming off the blade, they are hot. Recote the blade with wax if it starts going slow, chattering, or squieling(sp?). As with wood, watch out for kick back. You can really make some precise cuts if you take the time to set up your fence and angles carefully. You'll be surprised how easily the blade glides right through aluminum, even pretty thick stuff. Those blades made for metal are horrible, they produce a ton of heat, clog quickly with aluminum, and don't make very good cuts. Hope this helps-Aluminum Squirt

[v-drive]

LMAO ! :ROLLSIDE: WAXES AND LUBES ! You guys have seen one to many dirty movies.
Put a diablo 60 tooth wood blade on one of these and you'll wonder what you ever did without it . $40-$45 for the blade.
http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/tylertool_1912_51691486
Or you can put a $12 diablo blade on one of these (more teeth the better) .
http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/tylertool_1912_53944930
Very little filing to do this way.
-beerjet-
I am a metal worker and can't for the life of me see why someone would ruin a nice blade like that by not using a lubricant. But hey that's just me.
v-drive

[GofastRacer]

Wow, guess I'm way off in the talent department I'd sure like to know how you can trim out motor plates with a skill saw or a chop saw!.. :confused: :confused:

[dmontzsta]

I use a cheap ole Sears bandsaw and it has a belt sander attachment, works pretty good!..
It sure does, I received my piece the other day and have meant to get in contact with you. All I can say is, wow! perfection to the T. Thanks. :)

[HOSS]

Sawzaw. It goes through like butter.I do it all the time. I use cutting wax. Comes in a giant chap- stik tube and doesn't drip all over and make a mess like cutting fluid. Get it at any metal shop.
Darrell.
I don`t know guys,,,ya`lll are giving me way too many choices: saw saw, sazaw, reciprocating saw, saw-z-all,,,this is too much. I`m out. I`m gonna use my hand saw for tree limbs. Should I use some good cutting oil? Like wd40?

[Rexone]

As long as all possibilities are being explored don't discount the use of a 5 lb sledge with a sharp chisel.

[GofastRacer]

As long as all possibilities are being explored don't discount the use of a 5 lb sledge with a sharp chisel.
That's funny!.. :D :D

[HOSS]

As long as all possibilities are being explored don't discount the use of a 5 lb sledge with a sharp chisel.
Talk about some work. Technology is lovely. :cool:

[DansBlown73Nordic]

I have used a electric hand saw with a carbide blade. Maybe called a skil saw or power saw. The blade will be junk...Do not borrow the blade. :argue:

[DansBlown73Nordic]

A router im sure would do the job....

[beerjet]

As a union carpenter I have to cut aluminum smaller than a pencil for decorative wood paneling and hundreds of .25 thick thresholds for new const schools and remodels . Between the pricey wood panels and the aluminum , I cant have goop smearing on either one .
Saftey always being #1 for my guys , a good wood blade is worth it . High tooth counts have always worked for me and last a pretty long time (considering it's a wood blade on aluminum) in a production work setting like mine .
Aluminum Squirt got it right on with the aluminum blades being crap. They eat up a ton of material as well .
-beerjet-