More Questions

[mickeyfinn]

DAMN GLAD I FOUND THIS SITE!!!
I am still working on the 72 Hondo. Just picked up a few parts from the powder coater's and am looking at the boat for what else needs to be cleaned up. Now I have several questions:
Is it reasonable to assume 65-70 mph from a flatbottom V-drive with a 402 chevy punched 60 with a cam that is around 530 lift? The cam will have a 114 degree centerline. I had this boat at 93 once upon a time but that was when I was single. (more disposable income) So now I am building it to look good and run decent. Is there any way to get the prop shaft off the boat without removing the rudder? If I do have to remove the rudder are there any seals that need to be replaced? I have never had to open the drive and am going to pay someone to show me around the first time and am considering having it powder coated as well. What all is involved with taking the drive apart? Is this simple enough or am I going to have 200 parts fall into my lap when I do this? If it is easy enough to do I will have the coating done before going through the drive. If it is fairly complicated I will wait until I have seen what is inside before taking it apart to be powder coated. Thanks to everyone who has been patient enough to answer questions for me. I bought this boat in turnkey condition, put in a motor blew it up a few times over the last 10 years and am now just looking to build something fun to run around in.

[Kurtis500]

I have about the same set-up you do except the motor is a Chrysler. My Hondo is a 72 also. Great boat, I've had it for 10 years, 65-70 is about dead on if geared right. You should be able to take the prop off and then slide the shaft out the back. You may have to turn the rudder a little to one side to get it done, given you have the same shape rudder I do. I remember doing this to my Hondo a number of times. The rudder box has an o-ring or two that you might as well replace if you go in there. Some have one, others 2. You need a bearing puller or (some of you cover your ears) a couple of good sharp pry bars. My advice on the v-drive is to wait till someone is there that knows what they are doing.

[V-Drive Tom]

mickeyfinn, DITTO, to what kurtis 500 said. You can do all of this yourself.
My family boat is a 75 Sanger flat, 402 Chevy,about a 530 lift cam. Revs to 5900. Goes about 70something and been doing it for 14 summers. It will make a good combination for you as long as you will be happy with a nice looking 70mph boat.
I will help you with any questions you have while doing the job. :) TOM..

[Dragboat Dad]

I have a Cole TR2, my son and I are partners. I had to take my Vdrive apart to install a Whirl away, I was very apprehensive but I received a lot of help from guys like V drive Tom and Dan at Canyon Marine. V-drive.com has a Casale page that shows an exploded view. Click on quick change model. There are some tolerances that need to be set up so you will need a caliper.
On my boat the rudder is offset to one side so the shaft just slide right out.

[Dragboat Dad]

And if you remove the rudder, be sure that the key has a clamp of some sore holding it from working it's way out the top. Ours did that last weekend but luckily we were only going slow. Our rudder box had a seal in it that I was able to get at Napa auto for about 4 bucks, doesn't leak now.