Pump Questions?

[DelawareDave]

Is a Berk JG bowl really any better than a JC bowl, other than for the fact that the steering nozzle unbolts? I realize that wedges and droops, and all that other stuff are made for the split bowl, but really- is there a performance difference between the two, in stock form?
The reason for asking: I just picked up some parts to replace some damaged ones ( Pump (http://www2.***boat.com/forums/showthread.php?t=129563) ) in this thread. I got a JG suction housing, a complete JG bolt on steering nozzle assembly, and a JC steering nozzle assembly. Both have reverse buckets. At this point, I have a good JC bowl, but could also get a JG bowl, if I wanted to.
The point is, should I spend for the JG bowl, to run stock, or just use the JC bowl I have? I don't see a massive horsepower increase in the future, just a stock 455 Olds. I don't plan on looking for 100MPH, or anything like that. I just want to get out there and have some fun.

[396_WAYS_TO_SPIT]

I have heard that the "C" bowl is better because of the vanes being longer. If your just cruising the lake then I wouldnt worry about the split bowl. Use the extra $$ tward something else;)
396

[watergun4u]

if you are just using your boat for family fun,and to just cruise around the lakes, then you have no need to spend the money on a split bowl, if you want to get alittle more out of the boat later on, you can get a diverter noosle for the c bowl, and that will trim the boat out alittle more thus getting more air under the boat for more lift and speed aswell as better punch out of the hole, in my experence, the 455 olds motor is not the best boat motor, the dont have the torqe really needed for a boat, and they dont hold up to the load put on the motor , they are not a motor you want to spin at a very high rpm, but good luck with it and have fun,,,,

[bakerjet]

a 455 has plenty of torque but dont spin it fast.

[SmokinLowriderSS]

a 455 has plenty of torque but dont spin it fast.
Yep, just don't spin it very fast ,,,, FOR VERY LONG (in factory trim).

[shaun]

I have heard that the "C" bowl is better because of the vanes being longer. If your just cruising the lake then I wouldnt worry about the split bowl. Use the extra $$ tward something else;)
396
I hurd the same back when a post about HBJets bowl came up. I also had a JC bowl but had jack over at MPD convert it. Not sure if i really needed to go that route with my setup, not like i'm going for a full blown race setup but hey, i was going to convert to JG anyway, might as well just convert it.
Bofore...
http://reitanfamily.com/gallery/d/6341-2/IM000963.jpg
After
http://reitanfamily.com/gallery/d/8405-2/DSCF2820.JPG

[IMPATIENT 1]

i have tried it both ways on the taylor i had(lake v-hull) and my boat actually lost holeshot by switching to the split-bowl and droop. we tried different wedges, ride plate angles but never could recover what was lost, i put the 1-piece bowl back on and got it rite back. the split/droop set-up did make it plane faster but lasked the "push" i wanted at @30ft outta the hole.remember this was on a taylor sj, your boat may react better to it, my sj didn't like it.
here's a vid of me(white and blue boat) racin the same hull(sj vs. sj) but the white boat has a split bowl,inducer and droop, he gets on plane faster but my boat takes a better "set" faster.
http://s55.photobucket.com/albums/g157/jbt21479/?action=view&current=tomandtravisracempg.flv

[Chopper]

I hurd the same back when a post about HBJets bowl came up. I also had a JC bowl but had jack over at MPD convert it. Not sure if i really needed to go that route with my setup, not like i'm going for a full blown race setup LOL
Thats some funny chit.......................................... MPD TOOK YOUR $ MONEY $
I have been told that unless you have a motor with over 600 HP.You just want a non split bowl.

[shaun]

LOL
Thats some funny chit.......................................... MPD TOOK YOUR $ MONEY $
I have been told that unless you have a motor with over 600 HP.You just want a non split bowl.
I guess you are the new ChetCapoli of the boards eh? if i would have had arsmarine do the work you would have been posting how great it is... Funny how 75% of your posts so far are promoting ARSMarine...
Oh btw, my pump kits from Duane at HTP, sure you want to talk some crap on that too right?.... :rolleyes:

[Chopper]

shaun not talkin crap about about any one. funny how you guys are like queers and steers. You are funny. Thats all. If I wanted to talk crap Id be all over you wimps like kronic.Now bite your burger and go drink your coffee latte.

[DelawareDave]

Why is it a simple question gets sidetracked? The personal crap belongs in "Bench Racers", or in the trash can.

[DelawareDave]

I have been told that unless you have a motor with over 600 HP.You just want a non split bowl.
This is useful info- the rest of the post was immature and unnecessary.

[Chopper]

DelawareDave i appreciate your comment,most others would just keep bashing. And on that note you have opened up my eyes. George at ARS marine has tought me alot of very good info. And if I can help someone out I try. There are some that just despise me.

[TIMINATOR]

Choppers right, in my experience a lower HP deal wants a C bowl, non-split. They will keep the velocity of the water higher and are more efficient, especially in hole shot. I tend to think that at less than 450/500 HONEST H.P. a C bowl works better. BTW why would you pay someone to machine somthing that you could just go out and buy? or borrow and try? Otherwise you have no way to compare the new VS the old. The bowl is not the restriction until the HP is WAAAAAAAY up there, usually beyond the HP level of most LAKE boats. Look at the size of the nozzle and the size of the bowl outlet. Why take the vanes out? they are controlling the flow and direction of the water, right up to the nozzle, thats why they were designed that way, a split bowl is a trade-off.
BTW for the Olds motor info, don't forget the ***boat article from last summer, I forget which issue.... TIMINATOR

[shaun]

Why is it a simple question gets sidetracked? The personal crap belongs in "Bench Racers", or in the trash can.
I Apologize, i cant say how many times on this board I've typed out a response like above and then just closed the window because i know it's just going to turn into nothing.. I wont say anything else unless it's on topic.

[shaun]

I'm just posting from what i've read on these boards, not saying it's right not saying it's wrong. There was a really good post a while back about this and it was my understanding that having a C bowl converted was the best of both worlds, you still had the longer vains but also had the ability to add bolt-ons. From what i've learned on this board and talking with others is that every boat is diffrent and will react diffrently.
I'll see if i can find the post later..

[DelawareDave]

I Apologize, i cant say how many times on this board I've typed out a response like above and then just closed the window because i know it's just going to turn into nothing.. I wont say anything else unless it's on topic.
My comments weren't directed at your first post. I have actually bookmarked your pics for reference.

[DelawareDave]

Choppers right, in my experience a lower HP deal wants a C bowl, non-split. They will keep the velocity of the water higher and are more efficient, especially in hole shot. I tend to think that at less than 450/500 HONEST H.P. a C bowl works better. BTW why would you pay someone to machine somthing that you could just go out and buy? or borrow and try? Otherwise you have no way to compare the new VS the old. The bowl is not the restriction until the HP is WAAAAAAAY up there, usually beyond the HP level of most LAKE boats. Look at the size of the nozzle and the size of the bowl outlet. Why take the vanes out? they are controlling the flow and direction of the water, right up to the nozzle, thats why they were designed that way, a split bowl is a trade-off.
BTW for the Olds motor info, don't forget the ***boat article from last summer, I forget which issue.... TIMINATOR
Thanks for the follow-up. This is what I was looking for with my original post.
I have your Olds article from Hot Boat. One question- 1/8" holes (I think you said) in cam bearings: these would take the place of the restrictors?
Thanks.