Winterizing the Sanger

[Dominator Scott]

I was talking to a friend about getting my Dominator winterized and it occured to me. How do I properly winterize the Sanger? I know you drain the block just like any other boat but what about the headers and getting anitfreeze back into the engine effectively?
What about winterizing the jet drive itself?
My Dominator has a LWP muff that you just hook to a hose,fire her up and let the impellar suck in the antifreeze froma 5 gallon bucket but that won't work on the jet boat.
How do you guys winterize them?

[Devilman]

I was talking to a friend about getting my Dominator winterized and it occured to me. How do I properly winterize the Sanger? I know you drain the block just like any other boat but what about the headers and getting anitfreeze back into the engine effectively?
What about winterizing the jet drive itself?
My Dominator has a LWP muff that you just hook to a hose,fire her up and let the impellar suck in the antifreeze froma 5 gallon bucket but that won't work on the jet boat.
How do you guys winterize them?
I can share what a friend of mine does with his, 5 gallon bucket of antifreeze, drop a bilge pump in it & run the bilge hose into the hose that feeds the engine, pump it through that way. Shuts the valve off that controls the header water , btw..... Don't take but a few minutes he said, to run it till you got antifreeze running out the overboard dump line....
Not sure about the pump itself though, never heard anything about that. :rollside:
He also unhooks the fitting on the headers wher the injection lines tie together & just lets them hang. They'll dry out on their own....

[centerhill condor]

I run the condor year 'round. After a brisk run I'll drain the block, then disconnect both of the hoses that run from the logs to the engine. Blow through each hose while plugging the other with my thumb until you hear no more bubbles in the log. the block and both logs are dry enough to not present a freezing problem. The bowl and supply hose should be dry enough as well.

[Dominator Scott]

Correct me if I am wrong but would the headers be pretty much dry since no water is introduced at an idle and any water left would drain out the weep holes?
I like that bilge pump idea.

[Devilman]

Correct me if I am wrong but would the headers be pretty much dry since no water is introduced at an idle and any water left would drain out the weep holes?
I like that bilge pump idea.
I've got a manual valve ahead of the T-valve so I can shut them off completeley if I need to for some reason or another, so I do it just because... But yes, I would agree with ya on the weep hole deal....
Friend of mine that lives farther north of me, has to winterize every so often. Last winter there were a couple of cold spells that were severe enough to take the extra precautions... Discussing it, that was what we come up with. He did it to his, said it worked like a champ, did both his jetboat & his big cruiser that way..... :rollside:

[SmokinLowriderSS]

After the block is drained, I pull 1 hose off the t-stat housing, stick a 2' stub hose on it, and pour pink RV anti-freeze into the block (long tapered funnel). About 2 gal is way plenty, and this usually starts running back out the jet.
I have jacketed headers, which are likely fine after pulling the plug on the water manifold, but I cork it back up and pour about a quart each down the 2 feed lines (from the t-stat cover).

[Gearhead]

First either pull the spark plugs and spray a little wd-40 into each cylinder or start the engine and pour automatic trans fluid or Marvel mystery oil into the engine until it smokes good. This will lube the valves and cylinders to prevent corrosion.
I then pull the plugs out of the lower side of the block both left and right. Some engines will have petcocks and drain the water. If you have log style exhaust manifolds, pull the plugs or open petcoks. Raise the boat bow as high as reasonably possible to drain the drained water out of the hull as well as to drain the water from the bowl on the pump. I generally then try to pour a little antifreeze in the top of the block and using a hose and funnel try to pour a few ounces on antifreeze into the bowl area of the pump.
Drain the fuel tanks or put in a little gas stabilizer. Then put some sort of cover over the carburetor and exhaust manifold/headers to prevent water, birds or rodents from entering. Put a good charge on the battery and disconnect. Let the boat dry out as well as possible, place some moisture absorbent such as kitty litter in a plastic container or spread it out on a piece of plastic, it will help absorb the moisture and then cover the entire rig.
This should help.... Others with a good program?

[Ken F]

I've always used 3 five-gallon buckets, two under the exausts to catch the water/antifreeze coming out, and the third full of 50/50 antifreeze. I put a yard fountian pump in (avialable at lowes, home depot, ect). which has a screw on attachment for a garden hose, with a short piece of garden hose I unhook the supply coming off the pump, and put the garden hose on with a hoseclamp. Plug in the pump, and let it pump until I get a good solid 50/50 mixture out the exausts. I always let the buckets under the exausts fill, empty them back into the pump bucket, and let it run through again just to make sure I've not missed any water pockets. Never had any problems.
On unhooking the header feeds though, I'd be careful. I did that one year, and come spring, there was a crack in one of them where water had not drained out. It froze and split the tube. They are just chrome plated copper. I remove them now, and take them in the garage for the winter.
Ken F

[77Woodbridge]

My .02 again. FWIW
I get a can of engine fogger, 2 gallons rv antifreeze, and 4 bottles of fuel stabilizer (smaller tanks/gas volume use less). Run the motor on the trailer (pump in water) long enough to warm it up good. Your last step is to change the oil. Pour the fuel stabilizer into your tanks, the drive home from the ramp will mix it up(some say not necessary - can't hurt though). Disconnect the coil wire and turn over motor enough to get the stabilized fuel into the carb. Next, disconnect fuel line and empty the fogger into the carb while cranking the motor full throttle(this special oil coats cylinder walls for storage). Disconnect the water line going into the block at the block and pour in the rv antifreeve until it comes out the exhaust(may have to remove thermostat). Do the same at the connection going into the pump bowl. Finally change your oil. Just my .02

[RICHARD TILL]

on my bbc i take both drain plugs out of the blockand leave em out all winter. if they both do`nt start draining i use a screwdriver to loosen the sand/grit to get the water flowing out. i never pour anything back in the block. its completely drained. nothing in there to freeze. the (bassett) headers take care of themselves. any water that in the pump comes out while pulling from the lake to the house. the cost is $0. its worked for 25 years now.

[blown428fe]

I can share what a friend of mine does with his, 5 gallon bucket of antifreeze, drop a bilge pump in it & run the bilge hose into the hose that feeds the engine, pump it through that way. Shuts the valve off that controls the header water , btw..... Don't take but a few minutes he said, to run it till you got antifreeze running out the overboard dump line....
Not sure about the pump itself though, never heard anything about that. :rollside:
He also unhooks the fitting on the headers wher the injection lines tie together & just lets them hang. They'll dry out on their own....
Did this today, bilge pump and 5 gal. bucket. Definitly the way to go.

[Dominator Scott]

Did this today, bilge pump and 5 gal. bucket. Definitly the way to go.
That method sounds super easy and efficient. But the T-valve to my headers cannot be shut off. It is a spring and checkball style t-valve from Rewarder Custom Headers that opens by water pressure. It is closed at an idle but after about 1500RPM's it starts to open when water pressure increases. Could I still use this method of winterizing and not worry about the t-valve or the headers?

[Devilman]

That method sounds super easy and efficient. But the T-valve to my headers cannot be shut off. It is a spring and checkball style t-valve from Rewarder Custom Headers that opens by water pressure. It is closed at an idle but after about 1500RPM's it starts to open when water pressure increases. Could I still use this method of winterizing and not worry about the t-valve or the headers?
I don't see why not. Surely a bilge pump doesn't put out enough pressure to overcome the T-valve? :cool:

[Dominator Scott]

I don't see why not. Surely a bilge pump doesn't put out enough pressure to overcome the T-valve? :cool:
That was my thinkin' also. Just wanted a 2nd opinion.

[Devilman]

That was my thinkin' also. Just wanted a 2nd opinion.
I would say "don't quote me on that" but its too late. :D
Seriously, I wouldn't think a bilge pump would have enough pressure to open the T-valve, though. It should be fine.
Put it this way, if it ain't right, I'm sure somebody will be sure to get in there with the correct answer. :rollside:

[oldbuck40]

I would say "don't quote me on that" but its too late. :D
Seriously, I wouldn't think a bilge pump would have enough pressure to open the T-valve, though. It should be fine.
Put it this way, if it ain't right, I'm sure somebody will be sure to get in there with the correct answer. :rollside:i knew i would find you here D-man! lol the one thing you guys are missin out on by not useing antifreeze is the protection it gives your aluminum intakes,and logs if you have them! D-Man can tell ya how bad the corrosion is on aluminum from just the straight water/minerals being on the alum. i ran a (NEW) alum intake for 2 months and replaced it with a different one,,,i was shocked at how little time 2 months it took for the water to eat away at the aluminum!

[oldbuck40]

That method sounds super easy and efficient. But the T-valve to my headers cannot be shut off. It is a spring and checkball style t-valve from Rewarder Custom Headers that opens by water pressure. It is closed at an idle but after about 1500RPM's it starts to open when water pressure increases. Could I still use this method of winterizing and not worry about the t-valve or the headers?yes it will work fine! i unhook the lines to the headers as D-man said,,after i flush with anti freeze,and nothing but water comes out,,so i know the spring will hold it.

[Dominator Scott]

yes it will work fine! i unhook the lines to the headers as D-man said,,after i flush with anti freeze,and nothing but water comes out,,so i know the spring will hold it.
Are you talking about unhooking the lines where they connect to the header itself or just from the hose that feeds the header lines? Should this be done before I winterize it or after?
I bought the headers used so I don't know if the lines will come off the headers without breaking and don't want to find out the hard way. :yuk:

[oldbuck40]

Are you talking about unhooking the lines where they connect to the header itself or just from the hose that feeds the header lines? Should this be done before I winterize it or after?
I bought the headers used so I don't know if the lines will come off the headers without breaking and don't want to find out the hard way. :yuk:i unhook the hoses at the fitting on the header! and i do it afterward. also somthing i didnt think about,,the small lines to each header it wouldnt hurt to blow them out just in case a little water was left in the small lines. just my.02

[Dominator Scott]

i unhook the hoses at the fitting on the header! and i do it afterward. also somthing i didnt think about,,the small lines to each header it wouldnt hurt to blow them out just in case a little water was left in the small lines. just my.02
I thought about that last night. Hitting them with the compressor.

[oldbuck40]

I thought about that last night. Hitting them with the compressor.cant hurt! thats for sure. well im going to get a bite to eat! talk to ya later.

[Dominator Scott]

cant hurt! thats for sure. well im going to get a bite to eat! talk to ya later.
Same here. Later.

[wet77]

I just....
Remove the two T-stat bolts
Pull off T-stat housing
Unhook hose to pump and add ball valve
Pour RV anti freeze down intake hole (only takes 2 gallons at most)
Watch for water coming out hose to turn into all anti freeze
Close ball valve
Re-install T-stat housing
Battery on charger
Wait till spring :220v:
Thats the hard part :crossx: :crossx: