Is this normal with a droop snoot?

[Dominator Scott]

I got the droop snoot installed this weekend and took the Sanger out for a spin. While under way we noticed a lot of spray at the transome of the boat and it appears to be coming from where the diverter and droop come together around the pins. It appears that some water is blowing past the O-ring on the diverter hitting the steering bracket on the diverter and spraying all over the back of the engine and on the headers. :yuk: The diverter is brand new and the O-ring looks perfect but doesn't appear to be sealing well against the snoot.
What can I do?

[sleekcrafter]

You may need get in touch with your dealer for this, might need a replacement droop. :)

[sleekcrafter]

You may need get in touch with your dealer for this, might need a replacement droop. :) but make sure the droop is not dragging in the water, this is common with out a ride plate
.

[9er]

Something similar happened to me. It was the water hitting the arm for the reverse cable. Just at lower speeds and coming off a plane.
A ride plate fixed it for me.
My 2c

[Dominator Scott]

You may need get in touch with your dealer for this, might need a replacement droop. :)
Bought the droop used off of here so that idea is out. Could my existing ride plate be too short?

[Dominator Scott]

Something similar happened to me. It was the water hitting the arm for the reverse cable. Just at lower speeds and coming off a plane.
A ride plate fixed it for me.
My 2c
It has a ride plate. Could it be that it is too short?

[MikeF]

If you know "exactly" where the leak is, and you have not modified it in any way......communicate w/ the manufacturer and see if they will fix the problem.
Senario two,
Your droop is polished. This means that there (likely) is "room" for the powdercoat on the part (so it functions as intended by the manufacturer). Since they sell the same part w/ and w/o powdercoating this could be the cause of your leak. It could be a clearance problem.......or a machining problem.
If they do not want to remedy the problem part, NEVER buy another part from that company again. :crossx:
I would not want to spend $300 dollars on a part only to be unable to use it as intended, and to throw it away shortly after I bought it.

[LGCDEVIL]

Put a fat rubber band in the groove on the nozzle and then install the o-ring. This will take up some of the clearance. This should work if it's just a little loose. If it's too loose, it will just blow the rubber band out when you turn.

[Dominator Scott]

If you know "exactly" where the leak is, and you have not modified it in any way......communicate w/ the manufacturer and see if they will fix the problem.
Senario two,
Your droop is polished. This means that there (likely) is "room" for the powdercoat on the part (so it functions as intended by the manufacturer). Since they sell the same part w/ and w/o powdercoating this could be the cause of your leak. It could be a clearance problem.......or a machining problem.
If they do not want to remedy the problem part, NEVER buy another part from that company again. :crossx:
I would not want to spend $300 dollars on a part only to be unable to use it as intended, and to throw it away shortly after I bought it.
I bought it used off from a fellow member here. I don't feel this is his fault in any way but would like to find a solution to the problem and be able to use the droop.
I polished the droop myself but the inside appears to be just standard rough cast aluminum. Would powder coating seal it up enough to cure the issue?
Can I get a fatter o-ring for the diverter?

[MikeF]

Put a fat rubber band in the groove on the nozzle and then install the o-ring. This will take up some of the clearance. This should work if it's just a little loose. If it's too loose, it will just blow the rubber band out when you turn.
Try this deal first. Sounds like it might help.

[Dominator Scott]

Put a fat rubber band in the groove on the nozzle and then install the o-ring. This will take up some of the clearance. This should work if it's just a little loose. If it's too loose, it will just blow the rubber band out when you turn.
How long will the rubbert band thing last? What about the powder coating idea?

[MikeF]

Try it first and see if it improves the problem.
If it does not improve then check all clearances as best you can to see where the "leak" is actually being caused by. Is it a casting defect, machining defect, or lack of powdercoating.

[Dominator Scott]

Try it first and see if it improves the problem.
If it does not improve then check all clearances as best you can to see where the "leak" is actually being caused by. Is it a casting defect, machining defect, or lack of powdercoating.
There is no powdercoating on this snoot. It is just bare aluminum inside and out.

[Oldsquirt]

There is no powdercoating on this snoot. It is just bare aluminum inside and out.
MikeF's point was that the droop was likely powdercoated when new and has since been stripped and polished. Doing that will increase the clearance inside the droop where the diverter o-ring should seal. If the stripping and polishing(or even just polishing if it was never powdercoated) were not done carefully, there could even be localized irregularities causing your problem.

[396_WAYS_TO_SPIT]

Mine did the same thing. Its the machining clearances that are off. 460 jus getn it's boat does the same thing. We are running american turbine droops and they do this. Maybe I can call ron today and get an answer.

[MikeF]

This must be your day off too Oldsquirt! :D :cool:

[Dominator Scott]

MikeF's point was that the droop was likely powdercoated when new and has since been stripped and polished. Doing that will increase the clearance inside the droop where the diverter o-ring should seal. If the stripping and polishing(or even just polishing if it was never powdercoated) were not done carefully, there could even be localized irregularities causing your problem.
I understand that but I am the one who polished this thing and all I did was the outside of it with fine steel wool and some Mothers mag polish. I really don't think this thing was ever powdercoated because the inside of the is still rough cast.except where the diverter pivots in the snoot which I didn't touch.

[396_WAYS_TO_SPIT]

MikeF's point was that the droop was likely powdercoated when new and has since been stripped and polished. Doing that will increase the clearance inside the droop where the diverter o-ring should seal. If the stripping and polishing(or even just polishing if it was never powdercoated) were not done carefully, there could even be localized irregularities causing your problem.
That sounds logical but no dice. Mine did it right out of the box along with 2 of my other friends boats. We all run american turbine and they are all the same. Mine is now polished and it does the same thing. It sucks big time:mad:

[Dominator Scott]

Mine did the same thing. Its the machining clearances that are off. 460 jus getn it's boat does the same thing. We are running american turbine droops and they do this. Maybe I can call ron today and get an answer.
Let me know what you find out. If I can't solve the problem I will be taking this thing off and getting rid of it. :mad:

[Oldsquirt]

This must be your day off too Oldsquirt! :D :cool:
Yep. Now if only the weather was nice.......

[MikeF]

That sounds logical but no dice. Mine did it right out of the box along with 2 of my other friends boats. We all run american turbine and they are all the same. Mine is now polished and it does the same thing. It sucks big time:mad:
The one (AT) that I bought from MPD does not leak. He said there were some that he recieved from AT did what yours are doing.....and he sent them back.

[MikeF]

Yep. Now if only the weather was nice.......
It's perfect right now down here. :mix:
I'm still gonna be spending it mostly inside the garage putting the engine back together. :boxed:

[396_WAYS_TO_SPIT]

The one (AT) that I bought from MPD does not leak. He said there were some that he recieved from AT did what yours are doing.....and he sent them back.
I should have sent it back but waited too long. Oh well, I will find a way to fix it;)

[Oldsquirt]

..... Oh well, I will find a way to fix it;)
If the rubber band trick under the o-ring doesn't work, you could always try powdercoating the inside of the droop to build it up a bit.......

[Oldsquirt]

It's perfect right now down here. :mix:
I'm still gonna be spending it mostly inside the garage putting the engine back together. :boxed:
I should probably be cleaning my garage. There's a car in there I haven't seen in a while....:jawdrop:

[Dominator Scott]

If the rubber band trick under the o-ring doesn't work, you could always try powdercoating the inside of the droop to build it up a bit.......
I will probably try the powder coat trick but now I have all winter to mess with it and work out the bugs. For all practicle purposes with the exception of installing the cleats she is ready to present to my father and see what his reaction is going to be. :rollside:

[Duane HTP]

One thing you might want to check. Is it a Dominator Droop? Dominitor made an early and a late style. The early droops were .060" bigger than the regular ones. If it is of the larger diameter, it will not work well.

[Dominator Scott]

One thing you might want to check. Is it a Dominator Droop? Dominitor made an early and a late style. The early droops were .060" bigger than the regular ones. If it is of the larger diameter, it will not work well.
It is an Aggressor Droop Snoot.

[396_WAYS_TO_SPIT]

If the rubber band trick under the o-ring doesn't work, you could always try powdercoating the inside of the droop to build it up a bit.......
Thats what i was thinking. I have a tendancy to blow the orings out:eek: While 460 jus getn it has the tendancy to blow the whole damn nozzle off:eek::eek:

[Duane HTP]

It could just be the machining off a little then. That is a real hard part to hold machine tolerances on. I changed machine shops here a while back on my Snoots. I sent the first one of the new batch to Steelcomp. That is the one he called a POS, and he was right. It was. I gave him his money back, and I had to trash 20 new Snoots because of it. I have taken Duct tape or Gorilla Tape, cut it the width of the O-Ring groove and wound two or three rounds on the nozzle, (under the O-Ring), and that seems to hold for quite a while. Good Luck!

[MikeF]

Good on ya Duane! :cool: Last thing anyone needs are bad parts.

[LGCDEVIL]

How long will the rubbert band thing last? What about the powder coating idea?
The droop I had to do this on was pretty wore out. The rubber bands would last 5-10 days on the water. Another fix I had to do was to drill and tap the tabs on the nozzle where the steering arm mount that act as a steering stop. Drill, tap, and install #8 X 1/2" allen head bolts. Leave the bolts out enough so the nozzle won't turn far enough to let the o-ring come outside of the droop. I'll try to post a pic cause I just read this and can't understand what the F I'm talking about.

[396_WAYS_TO_SPIT]

It could just be the machining off a little then. That is a real hard part to hold machine tolerances on. I changed machine shops here a while back on my Snoots. I sent the first one of the new batch to Steelcomp. That is the one he called a POS, and he was right. It was. I gave him his money back, and I had to trash 20 new Snoots because of it. I have taken Duct tape or Gorilla Tape, cut it the width of the O-Ring groove and wound two or three rounds on the nozzle, (under the O-Ring), and that seems to hold for quite a while. Good Luck!
Thats why I respect Duane!!! He doesnt hide behind anything! He is a man of his word;)
Duane, are you comming to firebird for the finals? If so I would like to meet you in person;)

[Nucking futs]

I have seen a few people put jb weld on the worn part of the droop and sand untill they were happy with the tolerances and it cured the leaking problem by the O ring. Its onlt a few bucks to try..... :)

[Squirtcha?]

The droop I had to do this on was pretty wore out. The rubber bands would last 5-10 days on the water. Another fix I had to do was to drill and tap the tabs on the nozzle where the steering arm mount that act as a steering stop. Drill, tap, and install #8 X 1/2" allen head bolts. Leave the bolts out enough so the nozzle won't turn far enough to let the o-ring come outside of the droop. I'll try to post a pic cause I just read this and can't understand what the F I'm talking about.
This is what I did with my old jetovator. Is this similar to what you're talking about?
This would probably have to be adapted for your hardware, but it worked in my case. Never blew out another o ring and this jetovator was pretty old (loose clearances).
http://jetboat.homestead.com/files/sidestop1t.jpg
http://jetboat.homestead.com/files/sidestop2t.jpg

[Dominator Scott]

I think I am going to try the powder coating trick and see if it cures the problem. I am done running it for the season now so I have all winter to get it done.
I have a friend that started his own powdercoat business and he just did some other parts for me,so I will just drop this thing off so he can get it handled.

[396_WAYS_TO_SPIT]

I have seen a few people put jb weld on the worn part of the droop and sand untill they were happy with the tolerances and it cured the leaking problem by the O ring. Its onlt a few bucks to try..... :)
Thats a good idea futs!!! i may have to try that;)

[Duane HTP]

No, I'm not going to be able to make it this year. This will be only the third time I've missed it since the day it started. But, I just got too many things going at once this year. I'll miss it.

[Rondane]

Thats why I respect Duane!!! He doesnt hide behind anything! He is a man of his word;)
I always remember reading duane prides himself on personally checking all his parts BEFORE they go out the door.......wonder what the other 19 customers had to say? :D Hey 396 how did it work on your boat?
rondane

[Duane HTP]

Again Rogaine, you did not read what I said. The other 19 were trashed. They were never sent. Pay ATTENTION here!

[1slowboat]

I think I am going to try the powder coating trick and see if it cures the problem. I am done running it for the season now so I have all winter to get it done.
I have a friend that started his own powdercoat business and he just did some other parts for me,so I will just drop this thing off so he can get it handled.
try a translucent powder coat, it will be coated twice, chrome is the first, then your color, had the same problem with one of mine, fixed it for years, and the steering was much tighter....my .02....

[LGCDEVIL]

This is what I did with my old jetovator. Is this similar to what you're talking about?
This would probably have to be adapted for your hardware, but it worked in my case. Never blew out another o ring and this jetovator was pretty old (loose clearances).
http://jetboat.homestead.com/files/sidestop1t.jpg
http://jetboat.homestead.com/files/sidestop2t.jpg
Thats it

[460 jus getn it]

Mine did the same thing. Its the machining clearances that are off. 460 jus getn it's boat does the same thing. We are running american turbine droops and they do this. Maybe I can call ron today and get an answer.
Yep, but since i painted the droop that has gone away. It is a clearence issue like many have stated.

[Wicked Performance Boats]

Powdercoat it twice on the inside and sand it to fit with a dremel tool. I know this works, because my powdercoater painted my pump parts and they were the wrong color. So he did it again without stripping them and I had to sand them to fit. [last job for this powdercoater] Budlight

[Dominator Scott]

Powdercoat it twice on the inside and sand it to fit with a dremel tool. I know this works, because my powdercoater painted my pump parts and they were the wrong color. So he did it again without stripping them and I had to sand them to fit. [last job for this powdercoater] Budlight
I think the powder coating idea is the best route to go,and will last the longest.

[inwo]

Wouldn't recommend for newer parts, but I fixed a really trashed one, before the days of "O"rings.
Gave it a thick coat of JB weld and used a ball for a mold. Been a while, but I think it was some kind of a hollow rubber ball.
Saved a lot of sanding!

[396_WAYS_TO_SPIT]

Hey 396 how did it work on your boat?
rondane
What are you asking about? Which part? My droop came straight from the vendor(american turbine). As far as duane's impeller detailing,wearring and balancing, It made my pump very efficient! Don's inducer and packing seal worked like a champ too;) I havent touched the droop because Im building a 540 next month. I will probablly play with it next month and test the droop on my friends boat. he has thru transom exhaust and I can sit next to the motor and look at the droop. Then I can make adjustment from there.
On another note, I am going to buy a snoot and test it on my boat. That way I can see what difference it makes on my boat along with a few others. $400 isnt alot for me to spend on trail and error;) I know that it will work on one of our(east side crew's) boats;)

[e514jet]

dominator,
where did you get the through bulkhead fittings for your cables?
Also please send some more pics of your boat. I'll pm you my address..E

[Dominator Scott]

dominator,
where did you get the through bulkhead fittings for your cables?
Also please send some more pics of your boat. I'll pm you my address..E
Sent you a PM. :rollside:

[Gearhead]

Powdercoat it twice on the inside and sand it to fit with a dremel tool. I know this works, because my powdercoater painted my pump parts and they were the wrong color. So he did it again without stripping them and I had to sand them to fit. [last job for this powdercoater] Budlight
And as Pat can surely attest.... That power coat is a slow sanding job! That stuff is pretty tough. I coated a pro loader for fun just to see if the powder is tough enough for that job. I ran it a year and pulled it out to take a look and it looks just about the same way it did when I put it in. I do however see a few very minor burn spots on my coated ride plate.

[DEL51]

I always remember reading duane prides himself on personally checking all his parts BEFORE they go out the door.......wonder what the other 19 customers had to say? :D Hey 396 how did it work on your boat?
rondane
Rondane are you Danish? Why are you so mean to the HI tech guy? he took his part back and explained why he removed 19 others from inventory.Whats up? you can pm me if you want but be alittle more positive.

[396_WAYS_TO_SPIT]

Rondane are you Danish? Why are you so mean to the HI tech guy? he took his part back and explained why he removed 19 others from inventory.Whats up? you can pm me if you want but be alittle more positive.
He is a negative person.You know that negativity leads to a short life....
I posted a reply to him and I wasnt a jerk and he still hasnt replied. Ronjane is just a window licker that thinks he knows it all and has it out for a man that helps people out on here.
Its all good because little does he know that everytime he uses duanes nam, he just advertises for him;) I can guarentee you that duane will smile when he reads this;)
Hey del51, I will post the info about the speedcoat when I pull the pump to inspect;) Hell, I will even post pics like I always do:cool:

[Squirtcha?]

Rondane are you Danish? Why are you so mean to the HI tech guy? he took his part back and explained why he removed 19 others from inventory.Whats up? you can pm me if you want but be alittle more positive.
Here's a list of his posts. Almost every single one of them is negative.
At least he's consistent.
Read through them. It's really pretty pathetic. They all have that Chet Capoli ring about them too.
http://www2.***boat.com/forums/search.php?searchid=1304221

[396_WAYS_TO_SPIT]

Here's a list of his posts. Almost every single one of them is negative.
At least he's consistent.
Read through them. It's really pretty pathetic. They all have that Chet Capoli ring about them too.
http://www2.***boat.com/forums/search.php?searchid=1304221
Daaamn, we got dan comming out of the gates with tha bodyslam:D Thats odd comming from such a humble individual:eek:
Hey dan, whats new for the winter? Anything going to ba added to your CHEENA???

[Squirtcha?]

Hey dan, whats new for the winter? Anything going to ba added to your CHEENA???
Possibly some new carbs. Attempting to get back some fuel efficiency. I want to sell my two 660's and go to some smaller (450 cfm) double pumpers, or possibly vacume secondaries.
Might flip it and work on the bottom again too. I'm not sure about that just yet. I didn't get the best shape on my strakes when I blueprinted it last year and I think I can do better. I think I'm losing some lift, but can't be sure.
I finally got rid of my porpoise by adjusting hardware. However, it ended up costing me some speed.
Probably some new wires too.
If ya know somebody looking for a couple 660's let me know. I rebuilt them last year and they work perfectly, but they're fuel hogs. I got way more carb than I need and the non-progressive (all or nothing) linkage kills my mileage.
They've got the extended transfer tubes and can be jetted at all four corners.
http://jetboat.homestead.com/carbs_done_copy.jpg

[396_WAYS_TO_SPIT]

Possibly some new carbs. Attempting to get back some fuel efficiency. I want to sell my two 660's and go to some smaller (450 cfm) double pumpers, or possibly vacume secondaries.
Might flip it and work on the bottom again too. I'm not sure about that just yet. I didn't get the best shape on my strakes when I blueprinted it last year and I think I can do better. I think I'm losing some lift, but can't be sure.
I finally got rid of my porpoise by adjusting hardware. However, it ended up costing me some speed.
Probably some new wires too.
If ya know somebody looking for a couple 660's let me know. I rebuilt them last year and they work perfectly, but they're fuel hogs. I got way more carb than I need and the non-progressive (all or nothing) linkage kills my mileage.
http://jetboat.homestead.com/carbs_done_copy.jpg
I will pass the info along. I may know someone. How much for both?
I have a holley 600cfm(vac) secondaries if your interested. Its one of the shinny ones. Ill take $100 for it. Let me know if interested;)

[Squirtcha?]

Thanks Mike
I think a pair of 600s would still be too much. I was running a single 850 cfm on a dual plane with the same combination in the motor and that was plenty.
That's a really good price though.
I'd like to get enough out of the 660s so that I could make the change to different carbs without laying down any cash out of pocket.
Here's an ebay ad where they're selling rebuilt 660s for for $565 a pair.
Holley 660s on ebay (http://cgi.ebay.com/4224-660-CFM-HOLLEY-TUNNEL-RAM-CARBS-REBUILT_W0QQitemZ120046324666QQihZ002QQcategoryZ31 7QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem) Those aren't even setup with the secondary metering block and extend transfer tubes. Meaning you're stuck with the secondary jetting (as is), or have to buy some extra pieces parts. Those parts aint cheap either.
If I could find a couple used VS 450s that'd probably be about right. I don't care if the replacement carbs need rebuilding as long as they're mechanically sound and CAN be rebuilt.
I see where Jegs is selling the Holley 450 dps for $193 each. I'm thinking those might work out o.k. as long as the linkage is progressive enough.
Those damned 660s are cracking the secondaries open at anything over 3000 rpm. Since I rarely drive at 3000 rpm or less, it's killing me at the pump.