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View Full Version : Proper Oil Merc 502



splasher
12-14-2001, 10:23 AM
I've got a 2000 Merc 502 MPI MAG thats been run on only Merc Oil. Wondering if there is anything better I could be running? Concerned about start-up wear if running SAE 40 as some have offered. Also, will my oil cooler allow this oil to heat to the proper running temp if run in the cold great lakes water? Any thoughts and advice are welcome. Whats everybody running and WHY?
Thanks to all.

JETBOAT BRIAN
12-14-2001, 10:41 AM
Been running a Marine Power 502 with a blower for almost 100 hrs. I have used valvoline 40 wt racing oil and prolong in it from day one. No problems yet.Also use a prelube system!

waterbum
12-14-2001, 02:18 PM
I have a modified H.P.500 been runin' 15w50 Mobile 1 & Prolong. I crank the engine till I get oil pressure then let her fire. Never used any oil, changed every 50 hrs. May take slightly longer to heat but should be fine.
[This message has been edited by waterbum (edited December 14, 2001).]

Tinkerboater
12-14-2001, 05:38 PM
I use the Valvoline 40 wt racing oil on the Great Lakes.

Essex502
12-20-2001, 03:32 PM
I have been told by those who proclaim to be lubrication experts that Racing Oils don't have additives that prevent breakdown of the oil. They claimed that the cycling of a motor from cold to hot to cold causes condensation within the oil pan and block. This condensation coupled with the sulfer with gasoline causes sulferic acid to build which breaks down the lubrication ability and additive packages in the oil. Now I have to say that I'm no chemist but the expert did seem to know what they were talking about. Now synthetic oils are supposed to be ester alcohol based and this breakdown doesn't occur. The Racing Oils are changed very frequently hence no need for the longer lifetime additives being present. With a boat, it would seem there would be even more moisture that could affect the process.
I'd certainly like to hear from any others that may have more knowledge than what has been given to me.
Good luck!

waterbum
12-20-2001, 05:43 PM
You seem to have nailed it pretty good.Everything you stated makes sense.The proof would be the oil pressure guage!!!!

moomba
12-21-2001, 05:21 AM
I have been using VR1 30 race oil for the last year. I found out that it leaves alot of ash when burnt. Most oils leave about .8%, this oil and other race oils leave about 1.5%. I am switching to straight hpo valvoline 30 or 40. This ash leads to extra heat, which i am noticing and it has been known to foul plugs.

rivercrazy
12-21-2001, 08:40 AM
Just go with a very high quality Synthetic like Mobil One or Valvoline. Try to stay with the heavy multi weights with Syn oil like 20W-50. Stay away from the thin stuff. You can't go wrong with Syn oil

Duck
12-22-2001, 09:38 PM
My vote with rivercrazy-and a pre-oiler!
Love my Masterlube. 30# at 1st cranking of the month lets me sleep better at night.

Tinkerboater
12-23-2001, 02:54 PM
Just make sure you dont use synthetic oil during break in of a camshaft ( non roller ) I lost two cams that way on a 502

waterbum
12-24-2001, 06:34 AM
Most of the time,knowlege gained is in direct proporsion with parts broken.Been there too.This is one of the reasons these boards are so cool,by sharing info we can save each other big $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$.

Tinkerboater
12-24-2001, 09:00 AM
The crazy thing is that the cam manufacturer didn't ask what oil I was using. Lost two cams on the same motor. One during break in the other shortly after replacement.

waterbum
12-25-2001, 07:12 AM
I've always used Penzoil 30 to break in new engines or cams with no problems.I believe G.M. shipps their ZZ502 & 350 engines loaded with synthetic oil same with Vettes funny it don't cause problems at break in. Mabe they use special formula?

Tinkerboater
12-25-2001, 09:03 PM
My machine shop told me about not using synthetic oil during break in of a flat tappet lifter/cam engine. Said they have seen lots of problems. This shop builds HIGH HP engines. One of the boats they built the engines for held world speed records.

waterbum
12-26-2001, 11:21 AM
The G.M. engines I mentioned are rollerized, thats where the dif is. Syn oil ok with rollers.

twistedpair
12-28-2001, 06:27 PM
Originally posted by Essex502:
I have been told by those who proclaim to be lubrication experts that Racing Oils don't have additives that prevent breakdown of the oil. They claimed that the cycling of a motor from cold to hot to cold causes condensation within the oil pan and block. This condensation coupled with the sulfer with gasoline causes sulferic acid to build which breaks down the lubrication ability and additive packages in the oil. Now I have to say that I'm no chemist but the expert did seem to know what they were talking about. Now synthetic oils are supposed to be ester alcohol based and this breakdown doesn't occur. The Racing Oils are changed very frequently hence no need for the longer lifetime additives being present. With a boat, it would seem there would be even more moisture that could affect the process.
I'd certainly like to hear from any others that may have more knowledge than what has been given to me.
Good luck!
Same story I heard. I run Castrol Syntec religiosly and at 40 hr. change intervals it looks as good as new.

splasher
12-29-2001, 12:15 PM
What Weight Syntec Twisted? Was thinking of going with the Syntec 20-50 or Mobile 1 15-50. Thank-you to all who have posted their two cents worth, it has all been helpful. Now if I could only get rid of all this snow!!!!!!!!

rivercrazy
01-02-2002, 10:24 AM
I'd go with Mobil One. Its better than Castrol

Maverick
01-16-2002, 03:36 PM
Originally posted by rivercrazy:
I'd go with Mobil One. Its better than Castrol
What sort of oil temps at WOT are you guys running? I pretty quickly get up to 250 -260 degrees on the oil guage with sustained WOT (502 EFI) and feel certain after 2-4 miles of WOT the temp would continue to climb, unless I "pull back the throttle".
Marverick

waterbum
01-17-2002, 05:20 AM
My oil temps stay fairly low(old timers settin in can't remember exact temp but remember it's on the cool side)because i'm running a crossover in place of the circ pump.Also have seen firsthand Prolong reduce oil temps.You might wan't to give either of these a try or go to a larger cooler. The Bum

LakesOnly
01-21-2002, 12:05 AM
As we all know, motor oil performs several tasks. Primarily, of course, it is a lubricant. It also acts as a seal, a cooling agent, a cleaning agent, a corrosion inhibitor and more, all of which are equally noteworthy. Choosing the proper lubricant for the application is also important.
I personally am a strong believer in TRUE synthetics. True synthetic base stocks have a much higher film strength than conventional motor oils (so strong, in fact, that piston rings in a newly assembled engine may not even seat. So always break in a motor with a petroleum-based oil before switching to a synthetic). They also have higher volatility ratings and maintain their viscosity better over very wide temperature ranges, and so on. I have run an auto engine 88,000 miles on synthetic lubricants and then partially disassembled it (for the hell of it) and it still looked brand new inside. Another I ran for more than 32,000 miles without ever changing the oil (to make a point to someone). Both motors are running fine.
But the term "synthetic" is being thrown around by oil manufacturers a little loosely these days. Castrol Syntec, for example, quietly changed their formula to a PETROLEUM-BASE STOCK that had the moleclues re-arranged in the laboratory. They still called it a synthetic and offered data in court that supported testimony that the restructured molecules virtually equalled the properties of synthetic-base stock. The joke is that this inexpensively manufactured oil is being sold to the consumer for the same price as the real stuff. Also, because they won in court, it muddies the term "synthetic" and makes it easier for a manufacturer to CLAIM their oil is synthetic.
Some of the real synthetic-base stock lubricants include Mobil 1, Amsoil and Redline, among others.
I studied lubricants formally for some time, and the only arguement that I feel even comes close against synthetics is that because of the extended oil change intervals, they may become diluted and contaminated by unburned fuel and combustion byproducts blowing past the piston rings (in all engines). While this may be true, remember that the properties of synthetic lubricants are far superior to convention motor oils to begin with. Also, most of us on this forum run 8 to 14 quarts of oil in our motors (reducing the percentage of dilution) AND change oil frequently. So I don't think the arguement flies in our case.
You will protect your internal engine components better with a synthetic lubricant. It is better for cold start-up and hot running conditions and will maintain a more consistent oil pressure over the extremes. This is not to say that petroleum based oils haven't gotten far better over recent years. I just believe the true synthetic based stock is the better lubricant.
Well, it's a better lubricant for motors anyway....... http://free.***boat.net/ubb/biggrin.gif
[This message has been edited by LakesOnly (edited January 21, 2002).]

splasher
02-13-2002, 10:44 AM
LakesOnly thanks for the information, you sound quite knowledgable on this subject. You never said what you are running for a boat and what oil you are running in it, I'd like to know. I've so far only run Merc oil but have to believe there is something better out there. I have been playing with the idea of Mobil 1 15-50/Castrol syntec 20-50 or a straight grade SAE 40 as offered in my Merc handbook.
You said Castrol has been playing around with Syntec. I'd like to here more about this, do you have the Court Citations for this case? I dont want to pay for synthetic and be really running dino oil! This would be good information to pass on to other boaters but I need more information so that I clearly understand the situation.
Thanks for the response.

rivercrazy
02-13-2002, 10:57 AM
I switched to Syn oil in my boat a while back. I did notice that the oil pressure stays higher when the oil gets hot. To me that indicates the oil is staying cooler. Whether it be from less heat or less viscosity breakdown I dont know. I'm also a true believer in Syn oil. I've been using 20W-50 Valvoline that is also a true Synthetic similar to Mobile One.

LakesOnly
02-15-2002, 11:54 PM
Splasher,
I normally lay low when it comes to name-brand recommendations....opinions/biases really start flying.
I really have little bias between GM, Mopar or Ford. I've seen great engineering in all of them.
Same with "this weight oil" or "that brand of oil." I'll go so far as to say that if you're stuck between choosing Castrol Syntec or Mobil 1, I'd personally go with the Mobil 1. But others may differ in opinion.
The two engines I ran for extended periods without oil changes both had Amsoil in them, (one of the pioneers in synthetic lubricants). Getting the stuff is not convenient for everyone due to their marketing/distribution program.
You said, "I don't want to pay for synthetic and be really running dino oil (the Syntec)" I can understand. But while Castrol Syntec is petroleum-based, it is modified in the lab to have charateristics like that of a synthetic base stock lubricant. That is at least better than most base petroleum oils.
Finally, right now, I have a 1982 Southwind T-Deck with a 460 and a Dominator jet (my first Ford in a boat). I will be running a true synthetic, probably a 20W-50 or a straight 50 weight with a 13 qt. pan and dual remote filters, etc.
Hope this helps,
LO
[This message has been edited by LakesOnly (edited February 15, 2002).]