Housing off the bowl. help needed

[wright27]

I have tried almost everything to get the transome housing off the bowl. It has no silicone on it only the rubber o ring. It is a berkley 12 jg. Anyone got any tricks of the trade they can share.

[beerjet]

I spray wd-40 or any lube around the bowl from the inside so when you start to slide it off , it hits the slick stuff and pops right off . Works every time for me.

[DelawareDave]

A trick I learned when building auto transmissions is to slide a feeler gauge around the clutch piston to prevent damage to the seal when installing it into the housing. A similar trick would be to take a hacksaw blade, grind/sand the teeth off for about 4 inches, then use this between the transom housing and the bowl to break the seal or cut any silicone.
Some WD40 or some dish soap won't hurt either.

[El Prosecutor]

Try Deleware Dave's idea or use one of those snap-blade razor knives they sell at the counter at Home Depot.

[wright27]

I have tried all of these things. I am not sure where this boat was used at but I had to cut off the steering extension that is used because of the droop. Inside of it after I cut it off it looked like the calcium that builds up on your swimming pool tiles.
Mabey if I drop it out of an airplane at 15000 feet, that might do the trick. :mad:

[460 jus getn it]

Hit it real focking hard.....................That should work

[Mr. Crusader 83]

Hit it real focking hard.....................That should work
and if that doesnt work tie a rope around it and then to your truck. kinda like the hole, tooth and door trick.

[460 jus getn it]

and if that doesnt work tie a rope around it and then to your truck. kinda like the hole, tooth and door trick.
Yep....................................LMAO

[DelawareDave]

The stuff that looks like calcium build up is called corrosion! Aluminum oxide. Very hard stuff.

[wright27]

and if that doesnt work tie a rope around it and then to your truck. kinda like the hole, tooth and door trick.
Now we are getting some real answers. :)

[beerjet]

My last tear down involved a hammer , three chisles, a big crow bar , and of course some terry cloth towels so you dont scratch anything.
-beerjet-

[BRAWNY]

more lube and a com'along.i had a very stuborn housing,to a come along
from the steering hole down to the drain hole with a piece of wood protecting the studs from the bowl--lil' pressure on the cable and use a rubber mallet on the backside.mine popped right off.good luck and if you shoukld try it --
GO EASY. lil'bit at a time.BRAWNY

[Duane HTP]

Mabey if I drop it out of an airplane at 15000 feet, that might do the trick.
Works every time! :)

[flat broke]

Thought I posted this last night, but it must not have stuck.
If the transom adapter is only stuck to the bowl, remove the bowl bolts and pull the bowl and transom adapter off the boat together. Set the bowl on the nozzle adapter flange if it's a JG,JB,etc. Or on the suction housing flange if it's a C type bowl. Then do something silly like drive on the transom adapter with a 2x4 and a hammer to see if you can knock it loose, maybe utilize a floor jack and some bracing against an imovable object etc. :) The bottom line is that you will have more options if the bowl is in workable position where you have access to both sides of the adapter and don't have to worry about the transom of the boat. If you're going to be re-doing the pump including new PC/Paint etc. You could always just take a propane torch to the o-ring.
Good luck with it.
Chris

[Nicked prop]

I've always had good luck soaking stuff like this with a large amount of PB Blaster or Kroil (Kroil is harder to find), letting it sit a day or two, applying heat with a heat gun rather than a torch, and spending all day alternately tapping with a BFH and a block of wood, adding more penetrating oil, adding more heat from the heat gun, and repeat.

[wright27]

I will try again tonight. If lubing and smaking does not work, I will try having my wife nag at it till it jumps off by itself and runs away. It works on me.