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View Full Version : Contruction suggestions (again)



kingsransomracing
11-15-2006, 09:31 AM
This is in regards to the shed / workshop
Concrete "curb" is formed. I installed rebar studs every 24" and then tied the tops of them altogether with rebar. (all 1/2")
Also installed 5/8" studs every 32" to mount the walls (walls are ~12' by ~14') (5 studs per wall)
Plan on using 2x4 to frame
Will run studs every 16" and double up on the ends that accept the adjoing walls.
The bottom 2x4 I plan on using the treated lumber.
Next questions:
Do I have to install anything between the concrete curb and the bottom treated 2x4 that mounts to it?
What is the typical dimension (height wise) for the cross braces between the 2x4?
Plan on a double header on top. Since I am installing this underneath a patio cover, I plan on building the walls with a single header and then building the roof with the second 2x4 as the header and sliding and mounting it on (in order to keep it tight to the patio cover.
Around windows, what is the typical construction rules? std 16" span above and below windows? Do I have to double the studs on the sides or top and bottom?
And for a double door (qty: 2 30" doors) is the std double header on top sufficent for that wall?
I have done searches online and can't find anything about the standard construction codes...anyone know where to find those?

XTRM22
11-15-2006, 10:34 AM
I think you need a little more detail, but I'm gonna take a shot at your questions. If you're not supporting any real weight from above ie. roof load then your single top plate is probably ok. you refer to roof, and I'm thinking you mean ceiling inside your shed, since this is under the patio cover it's already got a roof, correct? Same thing on your windows if you're not supporting any significan roof load then I'd make a header out of 2-2x4's on edge over the top of your window opening and butted right up to your single top plate. for the door opening, if you have the room I'd build a header out of 2x6 on edge nailed togather just because of the weight of the doors, don't want any sagging. If nobody else comes in here and answers this better then I am, pm me and I'll try and explain in a little more detail.
Chuck

kingsransomracing
11-15-2006, 10:50 AM
Ok...that makes sense.
actually I am going to put a roof on it (single sheet plywood thick and shingles) I am a little concerned that if I don't put a roof on it and the patio cover leaks, my drywall on the ceiling will stain. Plus if I ever decide to take the patio cover down, then the shed could still stay there.
So basically the roof would be as follows: ~180 sqft. (6 sheets of ply wood, tar paper, and shingles)
and I didn't think about putting the 2x4s on end....I guess that is standard? how would I go about mounting those to the wall though?
Also someone mentioned that using screws instead of nails to build walls is not to code. So with the nails, 2 nails each end is to code? and any requirement on the size of the nails?

Mandelon
11-15-2006, 07:47 PM
Dude, for a shed you are way overbuilding this thing. A single top plate will be fine, what is it supporting?....a sheet of plywood? Try to line up your roof joists over your studs and you can put them at 24" on center instead of 16".
Put Jiffy Seal between curb and bottom plate, 8" wide is good and wrap it up the outside prior to wrapping the outside or putting the siding on. Jiffy Seal is a thick sticky tar tape like stuff. It comes in rolls. It will go a long way to keep out bugs, moisture and keeping the wood from getting rotted out.
when you roof it, remember to use short enough nails so that they don't poke through the plywood on the inside, at least where you can see them. ( ie the eaves)

YeLLowBoaT
11-15-2006, 08:03 PM
Dude, for a shed you are way overbuilding this thing. A single top plate will be fine, what is it supporting?....a sheet of plywood? Try to line up your roof joists over your studs and you can put them at 24" on center instead of 16".
Put Jiffy Seal between curb and bottom plate, 8" wide is good and wrap it up the outside prior to wrapping the outside or putting the siding on. Jiffy Seal is a thick sticky tar tape like stuff. It comes in rolls. It will go a long way to keep out bugs, moisture and keeping the wood from getting rotted out.
when you roof it, remember to use short enough nails so that they don't poke through the plywood on the inside, at least where you can see them. ( ie the eaves)
what he said.
blocking normally goes as close to the middle as you can get.( eye is fine. its not like your using it to hang your siding off of.)
If you plan on using a ply sideing( t1-11 and simlar.) you want to prime all of the sides b4 you put it up.

riverroyal
11-15-2006, 08:25 PM
Dude, for a shed you are way overbuilding this thing. A single top plate will be fine, what is it supporting?....a sheet of plywood? Try to line up your roof joists over your studs and you can put them at 24" on center instead of 16".
Put Jiffy Seal between curb and bottom plate, 8" wide is good and wrap it up the outside prior to wrapping the outside or putting the siding on. Jiffy Seal is a thick sticky tar tape like stuff. It comes in rolls. It will go a long way to keep out bugs, moisture and keeping the wood from getting rotted out.
when you roof it, remember to use short enough nails so that they don't poke through the plywood on the inside, at least where you can see them. ( ie the eaves)
know alot :rollside:

kingsransomracing
11-15-2006, 08:56 PM
sounds good. thanks for the info. :)