Last Question about Jets !!!!! Intake degree angle ???

[DUECE'SDAD]

Alright guys i thank all of you for all the input and advice on this quick switch from a jaccuzi to the berkely. I have the old intake out, the new intake all mocked up including the "blending" of the bottom and I have my "Sea Goin Epoxy" in hand !!! I will be bonding this thing in tuesday night and got to talkin to a buddy about the intake angle. I bought a protractor/ angle degree finder last night and was going to through it on there for good measure.
I talked with one very informative guy that says always 4 degrees down (-4)
but another guy sayed it verys and yet another says put it in where it looks good and blends in with the bottom the best . . . .So does it really matter and where do you suggest for this type of boat . . . .http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/744halloweenvegasboat_076.jpg

[DelawareDave]

I calculated the intake I have, and it looks to be between 3.5 and 4° at the surface that would be on the inside surface of the hull, to the surface where the suction housing bolts to. Here is a document I have saved from previous posts regarding the intake.
"Here is what I found for info...........
Special note you must level the keel, use an angle finder to set the surface where the jet units mounts. If it’s a 4 degree intake set it between 4-5 degrees. One more thing fresh grind the hull and the intake (where it bonds to the hull) just before you install the intake.
INSTALLING INTAKE
There are four 3/8 – 16 tapped holes in each mounting flange that is used for jackscrews. These screws allow for setting of the intake to the proper angle.
a. Set the intake in the hull with the four jackscrews installed.
b. The bottom center of the intake at the front of the intake must be flush with the bottom of the hull at the front cut-out use the jack screws at the front of the intake to hold your setting.
c. Using the jackscrews at the rear of the intake to move the intake up or down. Set the machined surface (where the pump unit bolts) at 4-5 degrees relative to the keel.
d. Check the intake to insure that it is level with the hull side to side.
e. Tape around the perimeter 1 – ½” from the cutout. (This makes your epoxy job look much nicer.)
f. Mix your bonding compound according to the instructions. Place the compound around the cutout and also the mounting flange of the intake.
g. Set the intake in the hull so the jackscrews come in contact with the hull.
h. Double check the intake setting.
I. Smooth out and fare in the compound to the tape line also smooth out the compound on the bottom side of the intake.
j. Remove the tape.
k. Wait for the compound to kick-out.
L. Drill the mounting holes with a 17/64” drill.
m. Counter-sink the drilled holes for Flathead Machine screws. (From the outside of the hull.)
n. Use bonding compound under the heads of the machine screws to make them water tight. Install screws, washers, and nuts.
o. Mark and drill transom mounting holes.
p. Mark and drill cutout holes.
q. Complete transom cutout.
SPECIAL NOTE: If you are using a HIGH-PERFORMANCE INTAKE you must follow these steps to insure the ride-plate centers up with the bowl.
a. Bolt the ride-plate to the intake.
b. Bolt the jet-unit to the intake and to the transom but do not tighten. Use the gaskets provided.
c. Set the yoke on the ride-plate.
d. Move the jet-unit side to side to line up with the ride-plate and yoke.
e. Tighten jet-unit and transom flange bolts.
Here is more info.......
This is not something that I would recommend for just anyone to try. I will make a short explanation and let you take it from there. I recommend having the installation done by someone with experience. If the front of the intake doesn’t sit deep enough to make a smooth entry from the keel, you may have to do a little grinding in the bottom of the boat to get it deep enough. Once you have that done, you need to set your intake angle. I use a digital angle finder with an alternate “0” setting. I use the flat on the bottom of the hull next to the intake as the point from which I reference my intake angle. Just lay your angle finder on the bottom side of the hull along side the intake cut out, hit the alternate “0” button, then set the angle finder on the pump flange on the intake, then adjust the depth of the intake at the rear to achieve your desired intake angle. Make sure the intake is centered and sitting square side to side. There is considerable more detail to this operation, but this should be just enough rope to get the hanging started.
Originally Posted by old rigger
what nobody’s mentioning is how or what you level the intake too. No matter what degree you decide to set the intake (every hull is different so I wouldn’t even begin to suggest a number) you need to level the mounting flange of the intake, the part that the pump bolts to, to the lifting strakes. So after you set the intake where you want it with the front and rear set, you now have to go back and level it to the hull. Some mistakenly will pull measurements from the inside and go from there. This is the wrong way to do it because no two boats outa the same mold are the same on the inside. You need to set them to the strakes. The two center ones will do just fine.
If you’re going to let the putty kick over night with only the four leveling bolts in the intake, you need to place some dead weight on the intake to keep it from moving, make absolutely sure there will be no movement until it kicks. It’s not a bad idea to install at least two of the mounting bolts to help keep the thing in place. Just tighten the nuts finger tight. The reason behind not installing the bolts at the same time you’re installing the intake is to prevent pulling a hook in the bottom by over tightening the bolts. It’s not really necessary to do it this way, but if you’ve never done one before, it might be the way to go.
After you’ve mixed the putty and put the stuff around the edge of the intake hole, you can drop the intake in and work the putty smooth. Have a little can of water handy and dip your fingers in it and then rub the putty, making sure there are no voids anywhere. Pull the tape that you laid down before hand and clean up any little globs of putty with a rag with some acetone on it.
Go back and check the putty every 20 minutes or so until it kicks, it has a habit of sagging a little, so with your little can of water you can get your fingers wet again (and I mean really wet. Not just dip your fingers and go. Let them soak and get really moist, the putty will stick to any part of your skin that’s not wet, so get them nice and dripping) and work the putty back in shape, gently rub the putty. Too much pressure and you can squeeze it out of place. After an hour or so, the putty will be firm enough for you to go have a beer and pat yourself on the back.
In the morning you can coat the heads of the counter sunk bolts and install them in the holes that you already drilled and counter sunk. Finish them off with some putty, covering them completely, again using your wet finger, smoothing out the putty.
You can choose to do the bottom of the intake when you set it, or the next day when you’re under there doing the bolts. Just make sure if you do it the next day, you’ve removed any dripping putty that squeezed through when you plopped the intake in place.
This was by far my favorite part of rigging a jet boat. You can make or break a high performance set up by screwing up the intake. All the horsepower in the world won’t make up for a poor setting. After I look at a boat’s bottom, the intake installation is the next thing I check out. You can tell everything about the boat and who rigged it by this alone.
The information above was posted by other people on here. I just found the info for you and copied it to here. I just went through this last weekend. It can get frustrating but its not that bad. Trust me, I was saying every bad word in the book. The one thing I will say is that you might need 2 kits of “seagoin poxy putty” to get it done. Print this info and read it 6 times!!!!! If you still don’t understand pm me with your number and I will call you. I used a digital angle finder/level for mine. You can order it from j&L tool supply. They are small nice, accurate and easy to read. This makes the job easier"

[DUECE'SDAD]

Thanks for the post, i had thought that for zeroing your level it need to be done on the bottom and what that guy said kinda confirmed it. Im sure on a 23 ft cruiser that is only going to do 50mph it isnt rocket science, right now i have it perfect lookin on the bottom and want to throw the level to it to check. I have read everyone of your posts as you were asking very similar questions most of the time. How did yours turn out ? ? ? did you use the 1350 hd k3 ? ? I am thinking that should do it, but i do have to fill the old set of holes from the old intake. Im glad i read the part about put a little epoxy on the bolts before sliding them in to make a perfect seal then seal the heads flush with the bottom. Do you have any pics of your install top and bottom ? ? ?

[DelawareDave]

That is the info I saved for reference. I have not done the intake in my boat. I have decided to sell the project, as I picked up another boat that is much closer to going in the water.

[Goad]

this is a great post ...i am in the process of removing my intake...i will need this information later on when I go to put it back in.
Dave, where did you get this info? I am curious to see if theres pictures to go with it. If not, I will take some when I do mine and add them to this post so when searched, this thread will be really useful.

[DelawareDave]

It is info from this forum. I put a couple of articles together and saved them on my computer for reference.

[396_WAYS_TO_SPIT]

Get your keel to 0*. Take you angle from the sides of the intake. Then set the intake in and set it up to 4*. Measure and check 5 times before you set it!!!!!!