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DelawareDave
12-19-2005, 08:25 AM
I posted some questions for you over in the "Tahiti fans" post concerning Hawaiian boats layup.
Originally Posted by old rigger
When Hawaiian fired up I had just graduated high school in '74 and went to work there in the glass dept. Of course my dad went there too. When they folded up I went to Rogers and thats where I learned to rig, 1980.
My dad got out of it at the same time, after the energy crunch.
You two must have worked together back in the late 60's early 70's, his name was Dick Turner.
So what could you tell me about the actual construction on a Hawaiian? Mine is a 1975 18'. I am interested in knowing if there is plywood around the bottom side edge of the deck around the bow. The deck on mine has a noticeable low area on the port side, between the bow and the dash. The stbd side of the deck is nice and straight from stem to stern. I plan on removing the deck over the winter to replace the wood under the deck at the stern and dash, as well as the transom, stringers, and floor. It also appears the bustle was cracked on the port side and repaired, but left low at the break. The radius across the top does not flow smoothly from one side to the other.

blown428fe
12-19-2005, 05:15 PM
:coffeycup :D BUMP

DelawareDave
12-19-2005, 05:18 PM
Thanks, blown. I think I need to "borrow" your avatar

blown428fe
12-19-2005, 05:27 PM
http://www2.***boat.com/forums/customavatars/avatar6468_1.gif

DelawareDave
12-19-2005, 05:50 PM
KOOL! Thanks

blown428fe
12-19-2005, 05:54 PM
No Problem.

old rigger
12-20-2005, 09:47 AM
I posted some questions for you over in the "Tahiti fans" post concerning Hawaiian boats layup.
So what could you tell me about the actual construction on a Hawaiian? Mine is a 1975 18'. I am interested in knowing if there is plywood around the bottom side edge of the deck around the bow. The deck on mine has a noticeable low area on the port side, between the bow and the dash. The stbd side of the deck is nice and straight from stem to stern. I plan on removing the deck over the winter to replace the wood under the deck at the stern and dash, as well as the transom, stringers, and floor. It also appears the bustle was cracked on the port side and repaired, but left low at the break. The radius across the top does not flow smoothly from one side to the other.
All the boats were hand laminated at Hawaiian, except for the tri-hulls.
The deck did have plywood laminated to it. That wood should be in OK condition, no mater what your boats been through unless it's been sunk.
Is there a bulkhead in the boat? That alone should have kept the deck from saggng. When you get to the point of putting your boat back together, make sure none of the side braces, bulkhead or any thing else to bond in there does not actually touch the bottom or sides of the hull. You'll get stress cracks where they touch if you don't already have them.
You should be able to get the nice crown back to the deck when you rebuild, raise the gunnales to get the look with a small bottle jack and then fit your braces and bulkhead. The tops of the side braces should only touch the gunnale wood, nothing else.
The top of the bulkhead should not be touching the deck either (the way it came from the shop. oops) hold it in place with some wedges, then bond it in. The bottom of the bulkhead can rest on the little bit of floor between the stringers.
The hull might grow wider after you cut the deck off, which is no big deal, just be aware of that when it comes time to bond the deck back in place. (actually the sides of the hull will more than likely suck in the area where the side tanks would mount. The sides forward of that will try to fan out. At least that's what I've found)
Make sure to keep the deck on a nice support or it'll change shape too and then you're in for a little bit of a struggle. Keep it out of the sun as well once it's cut apart. Obvious stuff I know, but I just threw it out there because I've done what you're about to do a few times.
When you place the deck back on, it can be done with 2 in masking tape and a good stiff putty knife. Rest the deck on 3 pieces of wood, one laying on the deck one across the bow about 2 feet back from the point of the boat. The other two at each corner of the boat. Try to line up deck over the hull where all corners match, or are at least close. lol
You can either start at the transom, or the bow, it's your call. I always liked to start at the transom, once it's lined up slide out one board, at the transom, and tape up that corner. Move to the other corner and do the same. Don't worry about the fit between deck and hull at the transom right now, just the corners. You should already have double layers of tape along the deck spaced about 8 inches apart waiting for you to work your way up the boat, taped down on the deck and just hanging over the hull or flipped back over itself.
You can just reach in and give the hull a tap with your hand if the sides need to come out a little and when they're lined up, apply a little pressure on the deck and tape down a few feet of it. Make sure that you don't push the deck down to far and by that I mean the guy who's job it was to grind the boat once it got out of the mold didn't care one way or the other how the boat fit. He might have ground a nice low spot in the hull and it's very easy to make the deck follow that dip, giving a nice divit where you should have nice straight lines.
When you get past the dash, you'll need to use the putty knife to either work the sides in or out, sliding the remaining piece of wood a little more forward as you move along. You can alway use a bunch of body language here too, using the tops of your thighs, knees, anything else you can think of to move the boat into place.
If the hull grew in length, you can use a jack and gently raise the bow of the boat under the bow eye to match up the parts, do this only after the side are taped down up to the dash.
Sometime you have to tape a putty knife in place and leave it there applying a little presure either in or out. If need be, just bond the boat that way and slide out the knife after it kicked.
Getting back to the transom, sometimes the deck will try to pull in right where it meets the hull. That little lip where your bond is going to be is what I'm talking about. Sometimes you have to use fender washers, small plates, whatever the case, to line that section up. Not all the time, but now and then it happens.
Sorry I didn't see your question before and sorry for the long winded post. I hope it makes sense.

blown428fe
12-20-2005, 02:36 PM
Old Rigger - Very Nice Instructions, Your The Man. You Wouldnt Happen To Know The Weight Of These Hulls Would You?

Boatcop
12-20-2005, 02:46 PM
Old Rigger - Very Nice Instructions, Your The Man
Can a Rigga get a WHOOP-WHOOP?

Boatcop
12-20-2005, 02:56 PM
I posted some questions for you over in the "Tahiti fans" post concerning Hawaiian boats layup.
Dave,
Do you ever run in the Delaware River? (Dodging the tugs & tankers) Particularly up to the Rancocas Creek area in South Jersey, across from Philly?
The reason I ask, is that back in the mid-'70s, there was a bada$$ flatty, running out of there named "Screaming Yellow Zonker".
He used to out run our CG Patrol Boats all the time. I was wondering if that boat was still around that neck of the woods?

blown428fe
12-20-2005, 02:56 PM
:D :D Can a Rigga get a WHOOP-WHOOP?

DelawareDave
12-20-2005, 03:46 PM
Thanks for the excellent info, old rigger. The area with the dip, forward of the dash, is actually in the area of the rubrail. The 4 inches or so that is raised around the perimeter. I will get some pics posted to compare the 2 sides, and you will see what I am referring to.
The boat has a 2 piece bulkhead forward of the dash. There is an opening, I assume, to put stuff up under the bow, as well as allow access. It is about 16 inches wide.
The deck still has a nice arch to it.
The work will be done over the winter, as soon as I get myself situated. The old house didn't have a big enough garage to put my tools in, let alone a boat. The new house will work, but I need to get the lights, heat, and air all hooked up.
I built a dolly to set the boat on while I work on it.

old rigger
12-20-2005, 03:48 PM
Old Rigger - Very Nice Instructions, Your The Man. You Wouldnt Happen To Know The Weight Of These Hulls Would You?
sorry man, I don't know the weights. If I did know 'em at one time, I fockin forgot now.
There were so many hull designs there, can't remember all the details. Wish I could.
Hell, I've been looking at this old ad that someone posted a week or so ago and I can't remember building that double stepped cruiser in the upper left hand of the picture at all. Ever. We had lot's of different cruisers, but I'll be damned if I can remember that one. lol
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v210/flyin-t/Vintage20ads20320015.jpg

DelawareDave
12-20-2005, 04:11 PM
Dave,
Do you ever run in the Delaware River? (Dodging the tugs & tankers) Particularly up to the Rancocas Creek area in South Jersey, across from Philly?
The reason I ask, is that back in the mid-'70s, there was a bada$$ flatty, running out of there named "Screaming Yellow Zonker".
He used to out run our CG Patrol Boats all the time. I was wondering if that boat was still around that neck of the woods?
I know the Rancocas like the back of my hand. I used to float on a tube with the current when I was 12 years old. I watched when the Centerton Bridge was opened with a big key. The guy from the bait shop would come and put the key in the hole in the middle of the bridge and walk around in a circle to open it. There used to be a little marina right next to the bridge. There was Dunbar's marina, at the foot of Salem Road (when it was still dirt), before it was plowed under to build the Country Club section of Willingboro. There used to be a drawbridge on Rt 130. there were a couple of sunken tugs just past that bridge. I used to water ski there when I was about 16, around Rancocas Village.
But this was all back from about 1962 til 72 or so. I didn't come back to the area til 96 or so. After that I ran the Delaware from the C&D Canal, up to the Trenton railroad bridge.
I never really paid much attention to the V-drives or jet boats, but on a quiet summer evening, I could hear them quite well from my house.
My B.I.L. was working out of the NJSP Marine Patrol trailer in Burlington, but I don't know for sure what year range it was. He retired a few years ago and they moved to Sierra Vista.

Boatcop
12-20-2005, 04:59 PM
I know the Rancocas like the back of my hand. <SNIP>.
We plied the same waters. :D
I did 2 tours over there. 1975-'77, on the boat station there at Gloucester City. Ran from Trenton all the way down to Ship-John Shoal. And then again on one of the USCG Tugs at Gloucester. 1981-'84 Our area was Trenton to Cape May/Lewes De.
The Screaming Yellow Zonker was based out of the Marina by the bridge you speak of, I believe. I towed a lot of broke boats into there, back in the day.

DelawareDave
12-20-2005, 05:54 PM
We plied the same waters. :D
I did 2 tours over there. 1975-'77, on the boat station there at Gloucester City. Ran from Trenton all the way down to Ship-John Shoal. And then again on one of the USCG Tugs at Gloucester. 1981-'84 Our area was Trenton to Cape May/Lewes De.
The Screaming Yellow Zonker was based out of the Marina by the bridge you speak of, I believe. I towed a lot of broke boats into there, back in the day.
Difficult call on which marina. Centerton Bridge was on Bridge St, out of Rancocas, Martin's Beach, where Dunbar's used to be, there was Eble's, quite popular, just below the Rt 130 bridge, Ran-Del Marina, just below the Riverside- Delanco bridge. There was a long defunct marina across from Ran-Del, that is now Lightning Jacks's, but I don't remember much old history on it.
But I do remember that I saw some jets/v-drive boats up in the creek around Riverside in the last 6 or 8 years.
I lived not far from Martin's Beach, about a mile, in the 60's, so most likely since I could hear them, they were coming from that area.