Vibration and slip

[StealBlueZ]

Question: I developed a vibration in the driveline and there seems to be a “slip” similar to a slipping clutch on a car. I took the cover off to check the driveshaft, and sure ‘nuff, it was missing a bolt on the flange to the v-drive, and the other three were backing out. So it appears that I found the source. Now for the slipping. All keyways are good from the prop to the motor. Is there a chance the driveshaft may be slipping between the ends where it telescopes?
thanks,
randy

[DetroitJim]

Nope. Did your rpms really go up or does it just seem different?

[GofastRacer]

Unless you have a trans, there's nothing to slip unless the prop is cavitating. Maybe it was the vibration that gave you a slipping sensation!?. :confused:

[StealBlueZ]

Unless you have a trans, there's nothing to slip unless the prop is cavitating. Maybe it was the vibration that gave you a slipping sensation!?.
that's exactly what i was thinking, but just wanted to be sure before i put it all back together. I'll double check everything, and put it all back and let you know the results.
Have a good 4rth and Thanks for the replies!!!!
randy

[Rexone]

Randy make sure you use at least Grade 8 bolts on the driveline with lockwashers as well and I always locktite them too for insurance. That's one thing that can really ruin your weekend if it comes apart.

[StealBlueZ]

yea, i picked up pome stainless bolts today. This time, I'm gonna use longer bolts so I can back them up with nuts on the back side of the flange. I got the ruler out and checked the distance, and there's plenty of room.

[Hal]

Stainless bolts are not very strong. You may want to do as Rexone said and use #8s. :)
[ July 03, 2003, 06:35 PM: Message edited by: Hal ]

[GN117 Big Dawg]

Randy, use ONLY the very best grade 8 fasteners, through Rex or the vendor of your choice,(I get mine through ARP). I not only Loc-Tite them in I also saftey wire them and they are ABSOLUTLY ONLY USED ONCE then dicarded.
Fasteners only have a ONE USE life cycle, espesially when in the EXTREMLY HARSH application such as HP drive operations. In my race program this is the ONLY answer, it's gospel. Anything less is simply UNACCEPTABLE.
[ July 03, 2003, 07:17 PM: Message edited by: GN117 Big Dawg ]

[GofastRacer]

StealBlueZ:
yea, i picked up pome stainless bolts today. This time, I'm gonna use longer bolts so I can back them up with nuts on the back side of the flange. I got the ruler out and checked the distance, and there's plenty of room. Take the stainless back and trade them for grade 8's, and if you're going to use nuts on the back side, get "Nylok" JAM nuts!..

[DUCKY]

GofastRacer:
StealBlueZ:
yea, i picked up pome stainless bolts today. This time, I'm gonna use longer bolts so I can back them up with nuts on the back side of the flange. I got the ruler out and checked the distance, and there's plenty of room. Take the stainless back and trade them for grade 8's, and if you're going to use nuts on the back side, get "Nylok" JAM nuts!.. I second that. Stainless bolts are weaker than even grade 5.

[Rexone]

Don't use stainless on a driveline under any circumstances. Use Grade 8 steel or better. :)

[Stab-n-Steer]

ARP makes a line of polished stainless fasteners that are 15% stronger than grade 8 hardware. They come in hex and 12-point and they are beautiful! I wouldn't use them in a high horsepower racing application but for a laker they would be quite sufficient and will never rust. There is no better hardware than ARP...
S&S

[wsuwrhr]

ARP bolts (http://www.arp-bolts.com/)
click on the link.
I agree with Stab n Steer. If you look at the rigging of my boat, that is all you will see. Second to none in quality and custumer service. I am a believer in their products. Take back the regular stainless bolts you got, and get something better. ARP has plenty of driveline specific bolts, but probably all you will need is a few bulk bolts. Summit stocks them too.
Brian
(Not to mention they send me Christmas card every year, and catalogs without me ever having to ask.)
[ July 04, 2003, 08:43 AM: Message edited by: wsuwrhr ]

[Moneypitt]

Are we confusing "Tensile" strenght(strech) with "Sheer" strenght. Hardware GRADE #s refer to lateral strenght, HARDNESS is what resists sheer. The driveline fastners should be a happy medium between superhard, and super strong. Either way ARP is the way to go, just be sure to tell them what you are using them for.. Just my opinion.......Moneypitt