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View Full Version : MORG seam ?'s



*NAPALM*
04-20-2003, 09:20 AM
i think i told you i took the trim off the seam so i ground out all along the seam now i was wondering if there is any other new ways of strenthening the seam while filling it in besides glassing it seems to me you would have to grind out a lot of material to lay the glass on it and how clean would it look finished thanks if it is easier you can give me a call ill pm you my number if anyone else wants to chime in it would be much appreciated thanks.

Morg
04-20-2003, 04:13 PM
*NAPALM*:
i think i told you i took the trim off the seam so i ground out all along the seam now i was wondering if there is any other new ways of strenthening the seam while filling it in besides glassing it seems to me you would have to grind out a lot of material to lay the glass on it and how clean would it look finished thanks if it is easier you can give me a call ill pm you my number if anyone else wants to chime in it would be much appreciated thanks. Got the P.M.
Morg.
BTW- anyone elso have some experience filling the seams on hulls?

396_Z
04-20-2003, 07:12 PM
I don't Morg but I am listening very intently since it's on my to do list here shortly.

T-Bag
04-20-2003, 07:20 PM
I've heard that when removing the seam trim you need to mat and glass 3-4 in above and below the cap from the inside to strengthen other wise it will crack, but this is what I heard I have no idea

*NAPALM*
04-20-2003, 07:31 PM
it is glassed all along the inside the trim was just riveted on so i want to reglass a little on the inside but i dont understand how to strengthen and come out with a smooth finish on the outside/ ? of the day fellas
thanks for the info so far

bt273
04-20-2003, 07:57 PM
I would hope that you are painting or re- gelling around the trim area, It is going to be like what t-bag was describing, only on the outside,you can get fiberglass mat that is 3 inches in width,centering over the trim area,it will take 1-2 inches to blend in, the build up is not to extreme,there are some web sites that morg would know from the v-drive club letters that might help you out.I do not know your experience in fiberglass, not to insult, but you do not want to make a hot batch and disrupt the hull. I would definately call some boat builders to your benefit,just my .02 cents worth.

Sangster
04-20-2003, 08:04 PM
Also all the gelcoat has to be removed before you reapply the glass & resin..It will have to be ground down to the fiberglass then reapplied...Its not to bad of a job.. wink

BILLY.B
04-21-2003, 06:08 AM
O.K. this could get a little long but here goes. I have always ground the area about 2" on each side of the molding area to be filled. You want to take the seam and grind it in a V shape , not real big either , your just trying to get a good bond and an area to blend in the glass. They make a product called Ca-ba-sil , I don't know if I spelled it correctly, but it's kinda like ground up fiberglass. You catalize this stuff and then spread that in the seam area to take up the V shape that you grounded and this will then be sanded when it kicks off. Then you apply the mat over the top. I then would allow the the glass to dry real good, and block the area with 40 grit sand paper. When that was finished I always took some fiberglass cloth over the top of the sanded mat to blend everything in. Block that with some 80 grit , and then prime with an epoxy primer. Each step you should re-mask the area that you are woking with as this will make for a cleaner job and a HELL of alot easier to get the tape off. Make sure that if your not repainting the whole boat that you clean your edge (primer) before you paint. I have actually been able to repaint the area without to much of an edge. Hope this helped you out and was not to confusing :cool:

bt273
04-21-2003, 04:10 PM
BILLY.B:
O.K. this could get a little long but here goes. I have always ground the area about 2" on each side of the molding area to be filled. You want to take the seam and grind it in a V shape , not real big either , your just trying to get a good bond and an area to blend in the glass. They make a product called Ca-ba-sil , I don't know if I spelled it correctly, but it's kinda like ground up fiberglass. You catalize this stuff and then spread that in the seam area to take up the V shape that you grounded and this will then be sanded when it kicks off. Then you apply the mat over the top. I then would allow the the glass to dry real good, and block the area with 40 grit sand paper. When that was finished I always took some fiberglass cloth over the top of the sanded mat to blend everything in. Block that with some 80 grit , and then prime with an epoxy primer. Each step you should re-mask the area that you are woking with as this will make for a cleaner job and a HELL of alot easier to get the tape off. Make sure that if your not repainting the whole boat that you clean your edge (primer) before you paint. I have actually been able to repaint the area without to much of an edge. Hope this helped you out and was not to confusing :cool: Does this guy know how to party,or what???!!!!This is the guy I would listen to!!!

*NAPALM*
04-21-2003, 08:26 PM
THANKS ON THE INFO I AM REPAINTING THE WHOLE BOAT & FLO-COATING THE FLOOR SO I HAVE A LOT OF WORK CUT OUT FOR ME. SO IM GUESSING I STILL HAVE TO GRIND DOWN TO GLASS.
THANKS AGAIN GUYS

VD CRUISER
04-22-2003, 05:47 AM
Billy B, are you saying grind back about 2" on either side of the seam just deep enough to fill in with 2 or 3 layers of glass and "V" the actual gap so it can be filled up to the ground surfaces, with Cabisil, before glassing over the whole 4" wide area ? Is any more reinforcement required on the inside ?

BILLY.B
04-23-2003, 05:43 AM
VD CRUISER:
Billy B, are you saying grind back about 2" on either side of the seam just deep enough to fill in with 2 or 3 layers of glass and "V" the actual gap so it can be filled up to the ground surfaces, with Cabisil, before glassing over the whole 4" wide area ? Is any more reinforcement required on the inside ? Exactly , and you don't have to reinforce the inside as it shuold have been glassed together at the factory. If not then you would have to glass the inside also. Good luck and if you need anything else let me know. :cool:

*NAPALM*
04-23-2003, 03:20 PM
OK GETTING THE CABOSIL WAS A TASK IN ITSELF BUT I GOT IT.
ALSO GOT YARDS AND YARDS OF TAPE A SHIT LOAD OF RESIN AND GROUND ALL THE WAY TO THE GLASS ABOUT HOW DEEP SHOULD I GRIND INTO THE GLASS AND WHAT LENGTH STRIPS SHOULD I CUT OF TAPE AND WHAT IS THE MIX RATIO OF THE CABOSIL IT SAYS TO MIX TO DESIRED THICKNESS THATS IT.
AND IM STILL PUNCHING OUT ALL THE DAMN RIVETS I WAS ALSO TOLD TO CHAMFER THE RIVET HOLES TO HOLD THE CABOSIL & RESIN BETTER.
SOUNDS LIKE A GOOD IDEA BUT I DONT KNOW IF IT IS WORTH IT.
THANKS .
SHERMAN

*NAPALM*
04-23-2003, 03:37 PM
pm at ya morg.

*NAPALM*
04-23-2003, 04:18 PM
new dilema when i ground out the little v groove the glass is seperating from the boat making the groove very wide what should i do grind out the seperate dpart and fill it in the apply the glass or should i cabosil the holes and glass it all the way out