How to tell if its a 4 bolt block?

[jungledave]

I have an 83 sleekcraft with an inmar 454 that looks to be the original engine. What I am wondering is there anyway to tell if it is a 4 bolt block without removing the pan? The block casting number is 14015445.

[HBjet]

14015445...454.......78-90...2 or 4 bolt
found this from www.mortec.com
guess the only way to tell is to pull the pan!
HBjet

[Moneypitt]

I have an 83 sleekcraft with an inmar 454 that looks to be the original engine. What I am wondering is there anyway to tell if it is a 4 bolt block without removing the pan? The block casting number is 14015445.
Go to Mortec.com. They have listings by casting numbers, however some blocks will say 2 or 4 bolt, some will be 2 bolt only and a few will be 4 bolt only. There are other signs that point to the HD 4 bolt, like a big pipe thread above the filter area for the factory type oil cooler plumbing..MP

[Jetaholic]

Unfortunately, 14015445 is a very common casting number on 78-90 blocks, and it can be either a 2 or a 4 bolt main, so in this case the only way to tell would be to pull the pan.

[BUSBY]

On the earlier blocks, you could tell w/o pulling the pan. There were pipe threads w/ a square plug (like a pipe plug ... maybe 3/4" threads) above the oil filter cast into the block for a PTO ...
dunno if that helps, not sure if it applies to the later blocks, I''ll go upstairs and look at a few blocks and check and see

[tittyman]

If someone claims there 454 is an LS6...can you tell from the serial number or other indications on the exterior of the block...rather than just taking there word for it...

[jungledave]

I have an 83 sleekcraft with an inmar 454 that looks to be the original engine. What I am wondering is there anyway to tell if it is a 4 bolt block without removing the pan? The block casting number is 14015445.Well thanks for the info on the block, I had already printed the mortech casting numbers but was hoping to find something deffinate. I'll have to check for the big pipe plug above the oil filter area like was suggested , have to knock the snow off the cover...........again.

[lucky]

My opinion - if your in a lake boat and your putting less than 600 ponies out - it doesn't matter - most Don't twist the rrrss and when you re load the crank when your entering the water again after a nice roller your only loading whats in the grate and bowl - I have ran a studded two bolt for 14 years - at 5300 rpm and its still going like the pink bunny :)

[BUSBY]

My opinion - if your in a lake boat and your putting less than 600 ponies out - it doesn't matter - most Don't twist the rrrss and when you re load the crank when your entering the water again after a nice roller your only loading whats in the grate and bowl - I have ran a studded two bolt for 14 years - at 5300 rpm and its still going like the pink bunny :)
This is a true statement ... I have rebuilt many 2 bolts that were plenty of motor for most ski boats.

[jungledave]

My opinion - if your in a lake boat and your putting less than 600 ponies out - it doesn't matter - most Don't twist the rrrss and when you re load the crank when your entering the water again after a nice roller your only loading whats in the grate and bowl - I have ran a studded two bolt for 14 years - at 5300 rpm and its still going like the pink bunny :)Well I wasn't counting on it being a four bolt just trying to weigh a whole bunch of options of wich boat to sell and wich to build. I only plan on needing around 450 HP so not a big deal. I wish I had all the parts to run a chrysler but not many 44 0 water manifolds out there or bellhousings ect. Thanks to all for the info. oh yea. head castings are 353049. Are these what are referred to as the 49 heads on this sight and does anyone know anything about them?

[Froggystyle]

I know some engine builders that prefer starting with the two bolt main so they can run a splayed 4 bolt setup. Doesn't cost that much more, but I had to go find a 2 bolt main block once to do this and sold my four bolt.
And 049 heads are the bomb for a ski boat. As I recall, that is the good flowing oval port. Builds a lot of low RPM torque and flows well.

[jungledave]

I know some engine builders that prefer starting with the two bolt main so they can run a splayed 4 bolt setup. Doesn't cost that much more, but I had to go find a 2 bolt main block once to do this and sold my four bolt.
And 049 heads are the bomb for a ski boat. As I recall, that is the good flowing oval port. Builds a lot of low RPM torque and flows well.Do the later models, 83 heads have the 2.19s? Everything I have seen so far say they have the smaller intakes.

[jungledave]

On the earlier blocks, you could tell w/o pulling the pan. There were pipe threads w/ a square plug (like a pipe plug ... maybe 3/4" threads) above the oil filter cast into the block for a PTO ...
dunno if that helps, not sure if it applies to the later blocks, I''ll go upstairs and look at a few blocks and check and seeKnocked the snow off and found what looks like a 1/2 pipe plug directly above the filter in the casting .:)

[Jetaholic]

And 049 heads are the bomb for a ski boat. As I recall, that is the good flowing oval port. Builds a lot of low RPM torque and flows well.
I bought a 2 bolt main '86 454 block (14015445) with only 30,000 miles on it and it's never been overhauled for $300. Came with the peanut port heads, but scored a nice set of '049' heads off of eBay for it. Looking into putting the 2.19 intakes and 1.88 exhaust valves in them.
With '049' heads, do they need to be ported at all or do they flow fine on their own?

[Froggystyle]

I bought a 2 bolt main '86 454 block (14015445) with only 30,000 miles on it and it's never been overhauled for $300. Came with the peanut port heads, but scored a nice set of '049' heads off of eBay for it. Looking into putting the 2.19 intakes and 1.88 exhaust valves in them.
With '049' heads, do they need to be ported at all or do they flow fine on their own?
Make sure to do a good gasket match and run an oval port intake. The only really easy way to screw them up is to run a larger intake manifold port than the heads. Some folks run a rectangular port intake with the 049's because they want a tunnel ram or something (very few tunnel rams were built for oval heads) and they really, really hurt the low end performance. If you want torque and grunt, you need to increase the intake velocity and have a really smooth intake tract.
I usually get a set of metal gaskets and bolt them on the intake. I scribe out the gasket size and relieve it to there. Same on the heads. Should be pretty close if you have a good intake already.
Also, be sure not to over-carb it. Most ski boats I have ever owned/run did way, way better with a smaller carb than larger. For example, I ran a 454 Chevy with two 660 center squirters and got crappy mileage, bad holeshot and no midrange punch. Switched that out to a single 750 and gained 2 mph top speed and infinitely better driveability. I ran a 427, again with double 600 double pumpers and swapped it out to a single 650 with equal success. Better holeshot, acceleration and top end. MUCH better mileage.
With my 468 with an 8-71 on the Daytona, I removed the two doms that were on it and put on two 750's... same exact dynamic. Better all over.
I haven't really met the motor that is using less than 500 cubic inches and less than 750 hp that needs more than a properly built 750.
The 509 Merlin I ran in the Ultra (700 hp or so) only used a single 750 with some great mods... That is with a vacuum secondary too.
While I am on the subject, that is another point of experience I can relay. Unless you are drag racing a manual car and shifting, there is literally no reason for a double pumper. Especially on a boat, where the revs don't come up like a rocket, you will usually stumble when you wick it and it will just hemhorrage gas into the intake every time you hit it. Mileage suffers, performance suffers etc...
I like small, vacuum secondary Holley's for most everyday applications.

[Jetaholic]

Make sure to do a good gasket match and run an oval port intake. The only really easy way to screw them up is to run a larger intake manifold port than the heads. Some folks run a rectangular port intake with the 049's because they want a tunnel ram or something (very few tunnel rams were built for oval heads) and they really, really hurt the low end performance. If you want torque and grunt, you need to increase the intake velocity and have a really smooth intake tract.
I usually get a set of metal gaskets and bolt them on the intake. I scribe out the gasket size and relieve it to there. Same on the heads. Should be pretty close if you have a good intake already.
Also, be sure not to over-carb it. Most ski boats I have ever owned/run did way, way better with a smaller carb than larger. For example, I ran a 454 Chevy with two 660 center squirters and got crappy mileage, bad holeshot and no midrange punch. Switched that out to a single 750 and gained 2 mph top speed and infinitely better driveability. I ran a 427, again with double 600 double pumpers and swapped it out to a single 650 with equal success. Better holeshot, acceleration and top end. MUCH better mileage.
With my 468 with an 8-71 on the Daytona, I removed the two doms that were on it and put on two 750's... same exact dynamic. Better all over.
I haven't really met the motor that is using less than 500 cubic inches and less than 750 hp that needs more than a properly built 750.
The 509 Merlin I ran in the Ultra (700 hp or so) only used a single 750 with some great mods... That is with a vacuum secondary too.
While I am on the subject, that is another point of experience I can relay. Unless you are drag racing a manual car and shifting, there is literally no reason for a double pumper. Especially on a boat, where the revs don't come up like a rocket, you will usually stumble when you wick it and it will just hemhorrage gas into the intake every time you hit it. Mileage suffers, performance suffers etc...
I like small, vacuum secondary Holley's for most everyday applications.
The specs on this motor are as follows:
9.5:1 compression
Forged TRW dome pistons
Stock crank & rods
Double roller timing chain
Isky 280H Cam (280 seat-seat duration, .565 lift w/1.7 rocker ratio, custom ground 4* advanced w/higher ramp rate)
'049' heads w/2.19/1.88 valves
Edelbrock Performer RPM Air Gap manifold
Holley 750 double pump (recommended by Duane from HTP)
MSD 6M-2 Ignition box w/pro-billet distributor
Bassett long collector headers
How do you think this combo will perform?
As far as the reason for a double pumper, here is a quote from Duane from HTP:
The vacuum secondary carburetors require vacuum to pull them open. A boat motor pulls so hard there is not enough vacuum to fully open the secondaries. They also turn in the rpm range that does not produce enough venturi vacuum to open them either. So, when you change to the 750 mechanical carb, you will actually be gaining cfm on the top end and pick up some performance. The trick is to keep the velocity of the air coming through the air horn up. That's why the Holley works so much better.
What are your thoughts on this?

[77charger]

holley has a spring kit for the vacum to make them open up earlier too.I ran a vac 750 on my old jet boat and had no probs and yes it opened up the secondaries all the way.Also ran an 800 double pumper with no change on performance!
As for carb size that is one area where some over do it.If you plan on keeping it under 5500 rpm on 468 or smaller engine a 750 will do the job for most ski-play boats yes you can put a bigger carb on but your motor will only suck the amount of air it needs.
Now reving a bigger motor past 6500 rpm,head work,etc its another game this is where bigger carbs and duals come into play for peak hp.I ran 2 1050s on my drag boat it was only a 470 inch motor but also revved to 9500 rpm

[SmokinLowriderSS]

[QUOTE=Jetaholic;2326986]The specs on this motor are as follows:
9.5:1 compression
Forged TRW dome pistons
Stock crank & rods
Double roller timing chain
Isky 280H Cam (280 seat-seat duration, .565 lift w/1.7 rocker ratio, custom ground 4* advanced w/higher ramp rate)
'049' heads w/2.19/1.88 valves
Edelbrock Performer RPM Air Gap manifold
Holley 750 double pump (recommended by Duane from HTP)
MSD 6M-2 Ignition box w/pro-billet distributor
Bassett long collector headers
How do you think this combo will perform?
With a good porting job for a bit more flow, and to make the bigger valves most useful (I wouldn't spend much $$$ past a stage 1 job) I think you'll see ballpark arround 520 HP, with a very strong 4,000 RPM midrange. Should be very driveable, easy to start, idle, and cruise, strong punch from any throttle position (just the same as mine is with the exception of the HP level since I haven't had my heads done yet). Without the heads massaged a bit, about 450 HP, and those HP figures are arround 5200 to 5500 RPM, not screaming above 6-grand. very strong engine.
I think you'll be pleased.