bbf timing chain

[tahiti cowboy]

I bought a new 460 short block it came a new timing how do I tell if its the good one to run because I know that theres one if you run it ,it retards the timing 4 deg. and you lose power by running this type of chain or should I just go to a gear drive

[Ken F]

Go with a good double roller timing chain set. Up to '73 are the good timing chain set to go with. Reason being that in 73 is when the emission controls set in, and they retarded the timing 4* to comply with the new laws.
You could order a Ford Motor Sports timing chain set from Lem Evans:
lem.evans@bfevansford.com
A Coyles set is alright, but personally I like the FMS ones way better
Hope this helps,
Ken F

[LakesOnly]

I bought a new 460 short block it came a new timing how do I tell if its the good one to run because I know that there's one if you run it, it retards the timing 4 deg. and you lose power by running this type of chain or should I just go to a gear driveIn the Ford 429/460, the difference in cam timing is affected from within the crank gear sprocket; in the 1972-up engines the crank is advanced 8 degrees (which retards the cam timing 4 degrees, if effect).
So, a "straight-up" (pre-1972) timing set will have the keyway in the crank gear exactly below the peak of tooth, while a retarded set will have the keyway slightly offset (sort of between two tooth peaks).
http://www.reincarnation-automotive.com/early-straight-up-crank-sprocket.jpg
http://www.reincarnation-automotive.com/late-retarded-crank-sprocket.jpg
Many aftermarket double roller chains come with a crank geat that has three keyways cut. One keyway is for "straight up," another is for "advanced" and the last is for "retard."
Now here's where it gets whacky: Some aftermarket double rollers are available as a 72-up chain & gear set with three keyway options (Cloyes, for example, offer's a pre-72 & post 72 double roller chain). This would mean that where the round marker is 0* on the pre-72 is actually 4* retard on the post-72 motors & post '72 style aftermarket chains. The way to correct this is to install a post-'72 timing chain set at the triangle (pointed keyway) in order to advance the cam back to 0* as would be with a pre-1971 double roller timing set.
More easlily stated: Whichever timing set you have, the mark directly above the keyway is the true 0* (pre-72) straight up cam timing setting (unlike the other two marks on the gear which are slightly offset from their respective keyways).
So select the keyway that has the icon directly above the keyway (not slightly offset to one side of the keyway or the other). Also, the peak of the tooth on the crank gear will also be in direct alignment with the keyway and the keyway marking that is directly above the keyway. THIS IS PRE-1972 STRAIGHT UP. To verify after installation, both cam and crank keys should be at preciesly 12 o'clock when #1 piston is set to TDC.
LO
p.s. The FMS timing set that KenF suggests is a really nice one and has 9 keyways in the crank gear.

[steelcomp]

Glad you mentioned the tooth of the gear...I've seen where the icon is aligned with the keyway, and both were off from the tooth. It's the tooth and keyway that dictated the timing, regardless of the icon.
I ran a plain ol' PAW "premium" double roller...$40.00, and it was a quality piece. Seamless rollers, adjustable timing, and after about 40K mi, minimum stretch.
Every bit comparable to a Cloyes.

[Jim Brock]

you should always degree the cam in!!