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stilettovdrive
08-14-2003, 10:23 AM
Hello there.
Hov is the typical stringer made overthere??
I'm gonna make mine as 1,5 inch laminated oakwook,laminatet and glued to shape against the hull. But i would just check for any better ideas here at these excellent pages before i mutilate everything with my saw.
The viking
Sangster
08-14-2003, 12:11 PM
The best thing to use is stair stock..The stuff used to make stairs treads & risers..It doesn't have to be hardwood either....
FlatRat
08-14-2003, 03:54 PM
Viking,
Check with Havasue Barney, he da man. :) :cool:
stilettovdrive
08-14-2003, 07:36 PM
Stair Stock??
Nope, can't find it in the dictionary.
Got the prop, by the way, testrun it closing in dramatically.
Viking
topgun
08-14-2003, 08:25 PM
Wiking,
My Glen-L Crackerbox Uses a true 2" X 6" stock. I used Douglas Fir, but Mahogany or Oak will do. If you used the building jig described in the plans, the tops of all the frames are at the same height. Clamp the two stringers together and notch 1" deep slots in them where they rest on the frames. An aluminum or steel 2" X 2" angle 1/8" thick attached with 2 bolts in the stringer and 2 through each frame, also epoxy in the frame notch connection. Repeat for each notch and attach to the most forward frame you can. You'll probably need to fair the stringers up forward towards the front. This is something you do when you build the building form and align and level the stringers first, then add the frames.
BTW I didn't spell your name wrong, just a little Panzer SS joke. No I'm not one of those, just NASTY (LOL). If you want more help ask, I've built a couple of 3-point hydros and working on the cracker. BTW to convert american to metric, multiply the above numbers by 25.4 to get metric. You could also use 1 1/2" X 6" stock and laminate one side with 1/2" doug fir or mahogany marine plywood ( scarf the joint (not bogart) to get a long enough piece).
Good Luck,
John H.
topgun
08-14-2003, 08:30 PM
If you want a picture of what the stringers should look like, send me an e-mail and I send you a picture of the ones I made.
John H. :D
DUCKY
08-14-2003, 09:14 PM
I have made several stringers by laminating two pieces of 3/4in ply wood together. Since ply wood only comes in 8 ft sheets, make sure you don't put the seams in the same spot. Kinda hard to explain typing, cut the pieces you will need to make the right size (12ft or whatever)but stagger the seams, and bond the pieces together with a layer of 2oz mat, them trim them to match the angle and contour of your bottom once they are bonded. Then router the top corners. and bond them to the hull with 4 (2 strips of 2oz) or 6 oz (two strips of 3oz) mat. Then cover them in whatever you like. I use a 2 oz mat, and a bi-directional composite like "1708" or "2415" but you can do it old school with two separate layups of mat and 1/2oz cloth each. If you are building a lightweight boat, you can get away with a single 3/4" stringer, but I wouldn't recommend that for a lake boat. Laminated plywood is much stiffer than any one piece of wood, even hardwoods. If you don't want the grain of the wood to show, then you can gelcoat them in between the first and second layup of glass, it just takes longer.
stilettovdrive
08-15-2003, 02:06 AM
Hello topgun and everybody.
So Topgun, you're a joker huh??
Well, if you want to joke, then let's joke, but be prepared, i'm an excelent joker myself.
I'm a bit courious about what you are building, can't you mail me a couple of pics??
I am gonna ask my neighbour to bring home some stainless v profiles to attatch the stringers to the frames with some stainless bolts.
I'm gonna paint everything black, except the aluminium, stainless and hardwood, that will be varnished, simply beacause i love varnished wood.
If it had'nt been for these pages it would have been finished for a long time, it was when i discovered v-drives the whole thing changed from outboard to v-drive.
So i'm in some way building it backwards.
The next one will be easier.
The viking.
old rigger
08-15-2003, 07:06 AM
stiletto,
all the info topgun is giving you is great stuff, and it reminded me that GlenL (your boat) makes a series of books for 'do it yourself' guys. One of them is 'boat building with plywood' and it goes over every step of the process, including setting up your stringers. I think it's under 20 dollars and you can see it on their web site. Might be worth picking up.
Any good wood is fine for stringers as long as you use clear wood, no knots. Mahogany being the last choice if you're going to glass them in. They are the highest in oil content (and the heaviest) and don't bond to glass as well as fir or oak.
Duckys right about the strength of plywood stringers, they're just not as nice as looking as solid wood. In fact they're down right ugly, but if you go that route, any good lumber yard that specializes in plywood, not a Lowes or home depot, can custom make sheets any length you want. In the early days, some would build stringers out of 1" stock fir and sandwich it between plywood. A little overkill but strong as hell.
top gun, I'd love to see some pics too of the boats you've built. That's pretty cool.
stilettovdrive
08-15-2003, 07:59 AM
Well, I'm gonna be a good boy and do what topgun says, Can't argue with a dude who's been there.
Anyone needs a 12 by 216 inch piece og oak??? :rolleyes: :D
Los vikingos
topgun
08-15-2003, 10:46 AM
Stiletto,
Old riggers right about the building book as well as the ones they have on inboard installations and fiberglassing. Go to Glen-L.com and go to plans click on the stiletto and look at the pictures. One guy has done just what you want to do with the v-drive install. They also have newsletters and the boatbuilder connection (lots of good info). Also when you look at your stringer stock the end grain should be at no more than a 45 degree angle, like this [/////] or this [IIIIII]. If some one can host some pics for me, I'll try to get them posted. Stiletto if want me to e-mail them to you directly, you can contact me at jhstang51@netzero.net
John H.
stilettovdrive
08-15-2003, 08:05 PM
Yo Topgun, Where's the pics, i am highly and wery and most courious about both stringers and crackerbox eek! jawdrop
bigkatboat
08-15-2003, 09:42 PM
Oven dried, clear fir. You will save money and it will turn out nice. Remember! The heighth of the stringers is more important than the thickness. A 1 by 6 is a better stringer than a 2 x 4, because the taller stringer is more rigid. The heavy mounting (motors, v- drives) should always be mounted on rails to "spread out the stress" so the wood thickness is no longer a problem. wink
stilettovdrive
08-15-2003, 10:51 PM
That means that if i take a piece of oak, cut it in 1 by 6 inches, mount it in the boat, i will be off shortly with a rigid and stromg frame.
I do think i will use the oak anyway, its too good for firewood.
Viking.
v-drive
08-16-2003, 03:51 AM
Stiletto, I like topguns way best but I agree with Ducky. his way would just be more time consuming. There is no way I would mount a v-8 to a 1x6. My old Lavey Craft stringers were capped with stainless U channel. It looks really finished..... :cool: v-drive
stilettovdrive
08-16-2003, 05:00 AM
O.K., i am glad i brought this up.
That means that it's gonna be 1,5 inch, laminated oak,( i laminate everything with epoxyglue, cause it's strong, and fun to make, looks nice too.) perhaps covered with a stainless u profile. it's a great thing to have connections to wood and stainless steel, otherwise it would be a total ripoff.
No sence in not preparing it for some more HP either.
Viking.
[ August 16, 2003, 06:00 AM: Message edited by: stilettovdrive ]
stilettovdrive
08-16-2003, 07:17 AM
Topgun
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Viking.
topgun
08-16-2003, 10:33 AM
Now, now honey, shouting will get you nowhere. I sent you that one pic yesterday and I'll send a couple of stringer close-ups tomorrow, as you also need to fix your frames to accept the stringers, in my opinion (as per your picture you sent me). I thought about it and have a fix for you. Otherwise, you will have to cut angled notches in your stringers and that will be a bitch. Sorry, I have a 62 acre horse farm to run and I have to do all the mowing, I'll e-mail you some stringer pics tomorrow.
All my best,
John H.
stilettovdrive
08-16-2003, 01:08 PM
Take it easy, topgun, i just did it for the joke's sake, of course we all need to do what ever we do to make a living, before we can play, and that's is basically what we do isn't it??
I assure you, it was a joke and a joke only my friend.
I know i will have to do something on the stringer/framefront the solution will be mounting a couple of aluminium rails to the bottom and then bolt the whole thing together., this way i don't need a fin either.
The viking
But i sure would love to see what you are up to overthere, the pic made me even more courious.
[ August 16, 2003, 02:14 PM: Message edited by: stilettovdrive ]
topgun
08-16-2003, 06:48 PM
Viking,
No big, I was just joking with you too. I like to be witty, it makes life more fun. I was thinking of a wood fix, but a piece of angle or preferably a piece of channel might be a good choice. I say channel because the U shape has alot more strength than an angle with a single bend in it. Keep posting here, there are alot of knowledgeable folks who can and want to help folks out. I'll get you some pics out tomorrow.
John H.
topgun
08-16-2003, 06:54 PM
I re-read you post again. I was thinking of mounting a piece of channel across each frame and then attaching the stringers to them. Angle underneath the boat is out of my realm of expertise. Don't know what it would do to handling qualities and more holes in the bottom are more invitations for leaks and rot.
My .02,
John H.
stilettovdrive
08-16-2003, 09:06 PM
Topgun
I'm aware that the holedrilling can cause problems, but with the right sealer it should be possible to make it work. it sure would stiffen things up, so i'm considering it along with everything else.
What is that for a farm you run???
Viking.
topgun
08-17-2003, 06:06 AM
I breed, raise and buy and sell thoroughbred race horses. Horseshit smell like money to me! Pics will go out this afternoon. I have to size and format them.
John H.