View Full Version : Need Help W/460 #s
superV
09-04-2003, 10:01 AM
OK after tearing down my 460 I found two broke valves what was left of a piston in the oil pan, 1 bent rod,2 very bent push rods, and a hole 4" long in #3 port side cylinder. :( So I went out and found me a used 1978 460 with 80 miles on it :rolleyes: So my question is what do I have? Block is marked Dove 6015-A28 Heads D3ve - A2a,
and on the valve cover there is a D8VE-9c485-cc. Keep in mind this just going to used as a spare motor once i finish my build up on the other one. Im going to bolt my rpm performer intake to it, MSD, and new Holley 850 to it along with a nice set of High Performance Ex. mainifolds. JUst looking for it to be dependable. O ya putting a brand new Millings High Volume pump in it to along with all new gaskets.Thanks for the help.
Blown 472
09-04-2003, 10:28 AM
you have an 8.2 to1 motor with a retarded cam, if you are going to put a pump in it pull the chain and get one for a 68 to71 460 it will advance the cam other than that it is nothing special.
superV
09-04-2003, 11:18 AM
Blown 472:
you have an 8.2 to1 motor with a retarded cam, if you are going to put a pump in it pull the chain and get one for a 68 to71 460 it will advance the cam other than that it is nothing special. Chain and sprockets right? Is it weak or just does not perform as well?
Blown 472
09-04-2003, 11:20 AM
retards the cam and kills some power, put a cj pump in it also and drive it, great back up motor.
superV
09-04-2003, 11:29 AM
Blown 472:
retards the cam and kills some power, put a cj pump in it also and drive it, great back up motor. I just bought a Millings will that be OK? So i guess I was right about the chain and sprocket both needing to be replaced?
Blown 472
09-04-2003, 11:34 AM
yup the pump will work fine, chain and sprockets
roostwear
09-04-2003, 11:55 AM
What's the casting # on your hurt block? The D0VE block is considered a better block that the D1VE (thin rail) or D9 blocks. Like blown said, use the early style chain set, or a set with a mult-index crank sprocket and degree the cam.
Your D3VE heads are pretty good L/C heads with the closed chambers and 91cc. The heads to avoid like the plague is the D2VE heads with the open chamber. Those things would ping on race gas.
Blown 472
09-04-2003, 01:01 PM
058:
Your D3VE heads are pretty good L/C heads with the closed chambers and 91cc. The heads to avoid like the plague is the D2VE heads with the open chamber. Those things would ping on race gas. Not if you milled them down. :D :D :D
Hallett19
09-04-2003, 02:58 PM
Your best bet is to get the timing gear from ford motorsport. It sets the cam at 0 instead of the 8 (?) degrees retarded the ford is. Adds up to 40 ponies, probably get you close to a hundred rpms. Deck the block too, it helps pump the compression since you have the good heads. You might need to use some crane spacers for your rockers, I think I needed .18 thousanth shims to make it work, easy deal !
Blown 472:
058:
Your D3VE heads are pretty good L/C heads with the closed chambers and 91cc. The heads to avoid like the plague is the D2VE heads with the open chamber. Those things would ping on race gas. Not if you milled them down. :D :D :D Yep...that would work.....just mill off about a quarter of an inch. :D :D :D
superV
09-05-2003, 05:06 AM
Well finished up breaking down the new motor and found a bunch of plasit pieces in the oil pan kinda redish brown and look like they all made a collor of some sort. I was thinking it belong to the oil pump any ideas? :( Everything else look great?
roostwear
09-05-2003, 09:03 AM
Sounds like those plastic pieces were one of Fords better ideas. The cam sprockets in early engines had plastic teeth to run quieter. Did a great job too, but what you found in the pan was inevitable. I've never had a problem cleaning out the pan, pickup, etc, replacing the chain and sprockets, and running it.
Is this the one with only 80 miles on it? :rolleyes: That block wouldn't have been used on a '78, so it sounds like someone was mixing and matching parts. You might consider using that D0VE block for your buildup, though. wink
The D1 Block is every bit as good as the C8-D0 block even with the thinner pan rails. Any block up thru 78 is strong enough to handle any power you can make naturally asperated and then some. The 79 and up block is ok but is a slightly lighter casting.
The D1 Block is every bit as good as the C8-D0 block even with the thinner pan rails. Any block up thru 78 is strong enough to handle any power you can make naturally asperated and then some. The 79 and up block is ok but is a slightly lighter casting.
superV
09-05-2003, 10:14 AM
roostwear:
Sounds like those plastic pieces were one of Fords better ideas. The cam sprockets in early engines had plastic teeth to run quieter. Did a great job too, but what you found in the pan was inevitable. I've never had a problem cleaning out the pan, pickup, etc, replacing the chain and sprockets, and running it.
Is this the one with only 80 miles on it? :rolleyes: That block wouldn't have been used on a '78, so it sounds like someone was mixing and matching parts. You might consider using that D0VE block for your buildup, though. wink It was 80,000 mile on it and this is not the one I will be building up this one is a junker spare I bought for $500 :D As far as the plastic they look more like seals than teeth is they are teeth would the chain slip when i turn the motor over by hand? BTW im sure this is an orig. unopened motor from 78? Are you sure they are not the valve seals?
Moneypitt
09-06-2003, 08:58 PM
Yeah, they're probably oil seals...I've got a question about the heads. If the closed chambers are 91 cc, aren't the open chamber head combustion chambers larger? And as such, they would have a lower compression ratio and fuel octane demand.. The above posts are somewhat confusing on this subject..While we're here, what were the chamber/casting # choices for the 428 cu. in.... Thanks ford guys....Moneypitt
The difference between the D2 and the D3 heads is mostly in the chamber, the D2s being an open chamber design that has no quench area and is app. 91cc. The D3 heads that are the same 91cc but have about .100" deeper chamber and has a quench area. These heads usually requires a different valve length as well as pushrod lengths because of the deeper set valves. The quench area along with a piston that is zero decked will promote swirl and turbulence. This will lower the octane requirement needed for a given compresson ratio. Ports are the same or very close in layout and shouldn't make much diference between the 2 castings. In my experence with both heads I would always go with a closed chamber head for the reason I cited above and as far as I'm concerned the D2 heads should be used as yacht mooring material. :D
superV
09-08-2003, 06:05 AM
FYI to all, the plasic was the timming gear teeth! eek! Note to self next boat will have a Chevy in it! argue :D
Blown 472
09-08-2003, 06:14 AM
superV:
FYI to all, the plasic was the timming gear teeth! eek! Note to self next boat will have a Chevy in it! argue :D Now why would you want to put that junk in there?
superV
09-08-2003, 06:29 AM
Blown 472:
superV:
FYI to all, the plasic was the timming gear teeth! eek! Note to self next boat will have a Chevy in it! argue :D Now why would you want to put that junk in there? Cuz im Loco homes! :p
GofastRacer
09-08-2003, 07:38 PM
Blown 472:
Now why would you want to put that junk in there? [/b][/QUOTE]
Hey c'mon now, what's with this "JUNK" shit??, that hurts! :D I been running that "JUNK" shit for a lot of years and never had a problem yet!(maybe cause I build my own??). I would run a Ford but I can build 2 "JUNK" motors for the same price!!..Love them "F"kn "O"ld "R"oad "D"iggers" though!!... :cool: :D :D :D
superV
09-09-2003, 07:05 AM
FORD "Found On Road Dead"
newbie Mike
09-11-2003, 02:43 PM
CHEVROLET DOESN'T THAT STAND FOR
C=CHEAP
H=Heap
E=Every
V=Valve
R=Rattles
O=Or
L=Leaks
E=Every
T=Time
Now tell me if that isn't spoken like a true Ford guy. LOL :D
GM = God's mistake, GMC = Got Mechanic Coming, NASCAR = Natl. Assoc. Supporting Chevrolet Above the Rest ...theres alot more but I can't find my list :D :D
LakesOnly
09-11-2003, 04:02 PM
058:
...as far as I'm concerned the D2 heads should be used as yacht mooring material. :D When I get my yacht, it will have two 454's (1 port and 1 starboard) as anchors...
LO
[ September 11, 2003, 05:03 PM: Message edited by: LakesOnly ]
LakesOnly
09-11-2003, 04:05 PM
superV:
...the plastic was the timming gear teeth...next boat will have a Chevy in it! argue :D SuperV: Please see above post.
By the way, chevy's had nylon-geared timing sets too.
LO
LakesOnly:
058:
...as far as I'm concerned the D2 heads should be used as yacht mooring material. :D When I get my yacht, it will have two 454's (1 port and 1 starboard) as anchors...
LO Don't bother.....they would rust away before you would have a chance to pull them up. :D :D :D
superV
09-12-2003, 05:58 AM
Hey im a multi user if its AMERICAN then its all Good :D
Cheap Thrills
09-12-2003, 02:09 PM
FORD Backwards = Drivers return on foot ,
Unless of course your in your boat and its drivers return on ferry , wich shouldnt be so hard to understand since most Ford owners tend to lean in that direction ,,, ....
God Bless Chevrolet ..
God better bless'em....everyone else cusses 'em :D
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