sinking motor mounts

[oilfieldtrash]

ok i just noticed that i have a huge problem i pulled my motor out last week and tore it apart but that is besides the point i was cleanning the hull up to day and noticed that were my engine mount feet are bolted threw the stringer the bolt have sank! i need to find a way to fix this any suggestions the season is about to start and i may not have a boat!

[67weimann]

Sounds like the stringers have rotted... Solution is new stringers...:D

[Jetaholic]

I'll second that. Replace the stringers. I'll bet money the wood in the stringers is rotted to nothing but powder and the only thing supporting the engine is the fiberglass itself.

[oilfieldtrash]

how long does it usually take and what is the process? anyway to patch it to make the season?

[Jetaholic]

I wouldn't patch it. The process takes about a couple days.
First you gotta get the old stringers out. Once they're out, you cut new ones and glue them to the bottom of the hull and the backside of them gets glued to the transom. I would cut some 2x4 braces that are as long as the bilge is wide to make braces to go between the new stringers to hold them up while the glue cures.
Once they're glued in then you have to fiberglass them to the hull and to the transom.
PM ironman44bear on these boards...he did his stringers himself so he could probably walk you through the process better than I could.

[67weimann]

how long does it usually take and what is the process? anyway to patch it to make the season?
depends on your knowledge of fiberglass and your mechanical ability... personally I have never done it but I would say you could cut the old ones out and replace them in a weekend with a couple buddies and lots of beer. As far as patching them, do it once and do it right is the most likely response you'll get. It can be done but I would suggest replacing the whole thing.
Are they 1/4, 3/4 or full stringers?

[oilfieldtrash]

i believe they are 3/4 or full i will look farther in to it tomarrow. im confident in my mechanical i make a lining being one!:D just dont now where to start?

[67weimann]

Don't do anything till you get it off the trailer. I believe the hull will flex on the trailer once you cut the old ones out and then if you glass new ones in you may affect the shape of the hull and needless to say the handling...
but once again I'm no expert...:D

[bakerjet]

if they aren't rotten then you can put in a rail kit which is better anyway$$$
did your company just change names??

[67weimann]

if they aren't rotten then you can put in a rail kit which is better anyway$$$
If they have dropped in the stringer, I don't see how they could still be good...

[oilfieldtrash]

how could i tell if they are rotten?

[oilfieldtrash]

if i take it off the trailer what would i set it on so the hull would not lose its shape?

[67weimann]

how could i tell if they are rotten?
Pull the bolts that go through them out and examine the wood. What does the wood look like?
As far as removing it from the trailer, I think you need to support it at the back corners, and one at the front... I think it has something to do with the hull sitting on the trailer bunks that cause it to "move" out of shape.:confused:

[STRETCH]

how long does it usually take and what is the process? anyway to patch it to make the season?
Here's a link to a post on the Taylor website where a guy simply got rid of the wood and left the fiberglass standing....might be worth exploring in your situation.
http://p208.ezboard.com/Stringer-Replacement-Idea/fthetaylorboatsroost52059frm30.showMessage?topicID =5.topic

[bakerjet]

just take a tiny bit and drill a core sample if it comes out white and curly its good if it comes out in a nasty powder they are rotten is this a 4 point mount and did the holes sag on both sides of the stringer??

[oilfieldtrash]

yes its a four point mount and it really only sank on the left side if your standing behind the boat.

[76 Bonneville]

ok i just noticed that i have a huge problem i pulled my motor out last week and tore it apart but that is besides the point i was cleanning the hull up to day and noticed that were my engine mount feet are bolted threw the stringer the bolt have sank! i need to find a way to fix this any suggestions the season is about to start and i may not have a boat!
If the stringers are not to bad, maybe just around the motor mounts. You could use a piece of 1/4 alum plate appox. 4 x40 on the outside and piece in a few pieces on the inside ( behind/between/in front of mounts). Seal the holes w/ resin and through bolt. Don't set the plates on the bottom in case they settle. This might buy you some time.

[oilfieldtrash]

see i was thinkin about that but i was going to take a piece for the inside and outside and weld a cap on it the length of the stringer in the motor mount area and try that ? with cap on it would not allow it to settle anymore? think it would work????

[bakerjet]

yep that is a common quick fix.

[oilfieldtrash]

i think thats what i will do for this season and i may take my boat down to havi in the fall for gel and to have the stringers replaced. anybody on here have a recomendation of a good shop thats up to the task?

[OverKill]

If I had to just get by for a season I would drill out all the old holes. Then I would duraglass and fiberglass the drilled out holes. Then I would install an overlapping rail kit with three counter sunk holes 1" or 2" closer to the front. After doing so then I would set my motor back in to align the motor mount to the top rail. If you do a search for Couple little Projects, you will see how Squirtcha and I did mine.
I had a similar problem, we actually duraglassed and glassed what we called the termite hole that was about 1'x 6'' and is as good as new.

[OverKill]

By the way I used to live in NM. Where about are you at???

[oilfieldtrash]

up north in farmington close to navajo lake! what about you?

[STRETCH]

If the stringers are not to bad, maybe just around the motor mounts. You could use a piece of 1/4 alum plate appox. 4 x40 on the outside and piece in a few pieces on the inside ( behind/between/in front of mounts). Seal the holes w/ resin and through bolt. Don't set the plates on the bottom in case they settle. This might buy you some time.
couple of pics of the Aluminium supports on my old boat, give you an example of what others have done in the past....
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a164/STRETCH-SJ/SBOAT004.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a164/STRETCH-SJ/SBOAT003.jpg

[Jetaholic]

...examine the wood.
http://www.***boat.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=25805&stc=1&d=1173248228
Uh...huh...huh...huh...

[Jetaholic]

Honestly I think it would not only be easier, but much better support for the boat if you replace the whole stringer.
While you're at it, you may also want to replace the false floor and maybe the keel stringer as well.

[Bow Tie Omega]

depends on your knowledge of fiberglass and your mechanical ability... personally I have never done it but I would say you could cut the old ones out and replace them in a weekend with a couple buddies and lots of beer. As far as patching them, do it once and do it right is the most likely response you'll get. It can be done but I would suggest replacing the whole thing.
Are they 1/4, 3/4 or full stringers?
I would replace them, but do not plan on in one weekend. Spend a weekend cutting them out, getting your stringers, notching them and prepping the area where the stringers are going. Wear long pants and long sleeves, something disposable will be great. You do not want to end up doing the fiberglass shuffle (thousands of microscopic fiberglass slivers in your skin, what ever is not covered., not fun). Spend the second weekend laying in your stringers and fiberglassing them in. Even that is quick, but possible. Let them set up for several days and put her back together. This is not something you want to rush, you want to do it once and do it right. Good luck....Joe

[INFINITEJJ]

I had the same problem. The wood at the bolt holes were oblonged. I filled the holes and put a stainless steel excution saddle over the stringer and redrilled the holes. I had to order the saddle thru a door supplier (Thompson door)
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/DIGI_545.JPG
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/DIGI_544.JPG

[b's sanger]

if they aren't rotten then you can put in a rail kit which is better anyway$$$
did your company just change names??
Rail kit.